How to spend a lovely afternoon…
It may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I have a penchant for visiting cemeteries. When I spent the summer of 2021 in Cambridge, I regularly walked through Mill Road cemetery as a short cut to joining parkrun on Coldham’s Common. David’s favourite spot for foraging elderflowers and elderberries (to make wine) is at Surbiton Cemetery. So on a lovely day at the end of May, I decided to make for Brompton Cemetery.
Many cemeteries are more like wildlife sanctuaries and offer pleasant green spaces in which to wander. (I agree with the Victorians who saw them as a venue for a pleasant outing.) Seven large cemeteries were established in London during the 19th century to alleviate overcrowding in the existing parish graveyards. These were Kensal Green Cemetery, West Norwood Cemetery, Highgate Cemetery, Abney Park Cemetery, Nunhead Cemetery, Tower Hamlets Cemetery and Brompton Cemetery As I’ve been to Highgate cemetery many times, I decided to visit Brompton because I knew it from the days when I lived in Earls Court but never went inside. In 1981, the architectural historian Hugh Meller began calling this group of cemeteries ‘The Magnificent Seven’ after the 1960 western film of the same name.
At Brompton Cemetery it is possible to join a tour of the catacombs (situated underneath the collonades). Built in 1840, the catacombs were a speculative investment that didn’t pay off as only a fraction of the available internments were sold. On visiting the catacombs and seeing the decayed wooden coffins in the damp underground conditions you can understand why. (Fortunately each coffin is tripled lined and the lead remains intact.) As photography wasn’t allowed during the tour, you can see pictures of the catacombs on this link.
The tour included mention of The Priory Murders because the suspect’s first husband (Alexander Louis Ricardo) is inside the first coffin you see upon entering the catacomb. My small tour group included a Chelsea fan who spent much of the remaining time discussing the boundary between Brompton Cemetery and the football club!
Amongst other notables, Emmeline Pankhurst’s grave can be found in the grounds.
I fancy a return visit is on the cards and nearby North End Road market is worth a look. I’d also like to visit Kensall Green cemetery and the adjacent Catholic cemetery where Mary Seacole is buried.
Do you enjoy visiting cemeteries? I hope I’m not the only one!


