For centuries, the Andes have caught the imagination of travelers, inspiring fear and wonder. The groundbreaking scientist Alexander von Humboldt claimed that “everything here is grander and more majestic than in the Swiss Alps, the Pyrenees, the Carpathians, the Apennines, and all other mountains I have known.” Rivaled in height only by the Himalayas and stretching more than 4,500 miles, the sheer immensity of the Andes is matched by its concentration of radically contrasting scenery and climates, and the rich and diverse cultures of the people who live there.
In this remarkable book, travel writer Michael Jacobs journeys across seven different countries, from the balmy Caribbean to the inhospitable islands of the Tierra del Fuego, through the relics of ancient civilizations and the remnants of colonial rule, retracing the footsteps of previous travelers. His route begins in Venezuela, following the path of the great nineteenth-century revolutionary Simón Bolívar, but soon diverges to include accounts from sources as varied as Humboldt, the young Charles Darwin, and Bolívar’s extraordinary and courageous mistress, Manuela Saenz. On his way, Jacobs uncovers the stories of those who have shared his fascination and discovers the secrets of a region steeped in history, science, and myth.
An awesome book! It is a mixture of South American exploration history, cultural geography, and travel log written by a person with a real love for the Andes and its people. Jacobs takes you beyond tourist sites to relate with the people who still know and live the legacy of their ancestors. The book includes dramatic bus rides, typical foods, conversations with local historians, political analysis of each country, and an appreciation of the unique cultures in each country. A must read for anyone with an interest in South America and its people.
As he lay dying in Venezuela after having delayed taking a ship to Europe, Simon Bolivar exclaimed, "How do I get out of this labyrinth?" That labyrinth was South America, which Bolivar helped liberate from Spanish rule with the help of Jose de San Martin, Antonio Jose de Sucre, and others.
South America may be a labyrinth, but it has a strong 4,500-mile backbone called the Andes. For years, travelers have journeyed from north to south along the Andes, trying to understand the countries along it. (By the way, no one has traveled along the Atlantic coast from Guiana through Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina -- at least insofar as I know.
When I saw Andes by Michael Jacobs, I thought here was another follower in the footsteps of Humboldt, Isherwood, and Theroux. Fortunately, Jacobs came to this immense journey fully booked. As an Englishman living in Spain, he knew the language and could not only communicate with the people he met, but read works that have never made it into translation. It seems almost as if his companions were Humboldt, Bonpland, Bolivar, Sucre, Isherwood, Theroux, Darwin, and even Bruce Chatwin for the chapter on Patagonia.
Most travelers are nowhere near as prepared as Jacobs was for this journey, which was thousands of miles longer than perhaps all of the above except for Bolivar, who criss-crossed the Andes multiple times in his efforts to oust the Spanish.
In addition, I am astonished by his general level of erudition. Because of my own reading background, I can usually take pot shots at most travel writers -- bot not at Jacobs. This man is the genuine article. If you want to read a book, any book, about the countries through which the Andes run, this is it!
The late Michael Jacobs wrote three books about Latin American, all of which I have, and (to my mind) this is the best (and this is the second time I have read it). His aim is to make a journey by land from one end of the Andes to the other, and apart from one short flight at the very start, this is what he does. The beauty of the book is that he takes his time, spending weeks in some of the most important places and detouring from his main route to visit obscure and remote villages. Unlike (say) Paul Theroux, he is an optimistic traveller who gives the impression that he wants to get under the skin of the places he visits, and he always seems to manage it.
The journey is filled out by his knowledge of the parallel journeys made by others, especially Alexander von Humboldt and Simon Bolivar. Despite himself, he seems to admire the latter, although Humboldt is his real inspiration. He picks up others, too, ranging from Hiram Bingham (whom we first meet in the northern Andes, rather surprisingly, well before he 'discovered' Machu Picchu) and even Che Guevara, who of course was travelling (partly by motorbike) in the opposite direction. Jacobs was an expert in the history of art, and this informs his account, too, although not in any overbearing way.
Jacobs loves to be off the beaten track, and at journey's end he seems to be further off the track than ever. But he always manages to find someone to talk to, who as likely as not will say or do something which seems to summarise a point that Jacobs is making. He leaves us with an image of a slightly mad bookseller (Chilean or Argentinean? - perhaps it doesn't matter), singing and dancing on the deck of a boat tossing on the waves immediately after a storm in the Beagle Channel, as they pass beneath the cross on the top of a small mountain that is said to be the southernmost of the whole, glorious Andes chain.
You can't judge a book by its cover -- true words for this.
On the library's bookshelf, the book looked interesting; I was taken by the prospect of learning more about the Andes, its cultures and history. Instead, I came away disappointed.
Along the way, Jacobs does introduce us to the great naturalist Alexander von Humbolt who writes with a great deal of verve. Everytime his story appears, I want to read more. Then Jacobs turns attention to his present travels. I was hoping for some vivid writing (and there are moments), but for the most part it was rather ordinary stuff, relating his encounters with friends, the clubs he periodically visits, and various other locals he met. Encounters and towns receive a rather bland treatment such that no one place or person particularly stands out. Instead of marvel, it's more ho-hum.
And that's a shame. This seemed like such a great idea: travel the Andes, a place filled with rich and exotic histories, a place with all manner of politics and social groups. Then there are the mountains themselves and the possibility for staggering adventures and the stunned encounter with the sublime.
I wanted something like journalist or a participant, a Krakauer say. Or someone with more attitude, like Tim Cahill's Road Fever. Instead of bringing us along so that we see what he sees, Jacobs rather limpidly tells us what happened. I miss the engagement.
The result, sadly, is that the book feels rather slap-dash, maps are few and vague, and illustrations seem incongruously random. To its credit the bibliography is rather complete.
So I’ll open with the statement that this is probably going to be a ridiculous review. In a unintentional best of three, Michael Jacobs has won me over with Andes. I loved Ghost Train through the Andes, but struggled with The Robber of Memories and Jacobs is not far behind John Gimlette as my favourite travel writer (both have currently passed Paul Theroux). Jacobs is extremely likeable and honest and like Gimlette, has clearly done extensive research into the history of his route, there is a lot of Bolivar and Humboldt throughout, but the book wears this lightly. Flying into Venezuela he skirts in and out of the mountains, into Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina as he hops down the spine of the great range.
What’s so ridiculous about that, I know you’re thinking. In Ghost Train, Jacobs was clearly on a train, in the Robber of Memories, Jacobs was clearly on the River Magdalena. In Andes, it didn’t feel like Jacobs was in the Andes. Now you’re thinking, yes, this is ridiculous, he clearly was in the Andes, and he clearly writes about it, the book, is called Andes. But at the end of the book, it felt like he dipped in and out of the Andes, purely because they were in between where he wanted to go, but perhaps that is the problem with travelling down a mountain range, you can’t really do it properly unless you’re a bird, or some kind of goat, or in this case Alpaca.
My brain blip aside, this is a thoroughly enjoyable book if you love South America, Mountains or Humboldt. Jacobs seems to have an extensive range of friends and contacts, so has plenty of people to meet and places to explore with them. At one point genesis founder and author Chris Stewart joins him for a time as they tramp around Peru, sometimes riding on Stewart’s celebrity and other times keeping it hidden. There are plenty references to previous wanderers down this part of the world, aside from Humboldt, including Isherwood and fleetingly, Theroux.
Despite he’s almost whirlwind tour down the chain there are times when the impact of the mountains is plain, never more so than the in the lives of the bus drivers who plough up and over or round these massive road blocks. I have been over them a couple of times in Peru, thankfully it was either dark or I was sat at the rear of the bus, so was happily oblivious to the precariousness of my journey. Indeed Jacobs dedications at the beginning of the book include the bus drivers.
There are times when coincidences or events are almost too perfect to be real, Jacobs loves setting up an encounter or an incident that allows him to reflect, but there are too few to really affect the reading, he is less grumpy than Theroux, has much more interest in the history, but still enough curiosity about the present to make an interesting read. Given the size of the book it is perhaps more for someone who really likes Mountains, or Humboldt, or South America, or all three. At the same time, reading the book will be a lot quicker, and safer than trying to traverse the whole chain yourself, so, well done Michael, and thank you. (blog review here)
I regret picking up this book. It looked good from the cover (oh well as the saying goes) but after 546 pages it made me question my ability to get through a book even if I don't like it, in the vein attempt to find something interesting. Parts of it seemed to have a spark, but it quickly descended back into the monotony of someone's vacation which should never have a book written about it, let alone such a long one. Humboldt, Bolivar, and Darwin are fascinating people, but the way Jacobs describes them gives the stories such a choppy pacing that I don't feel as though I got anything out of it. Perhaps if the book were 200 pages instead of 546 it would have been worth while, but Jacobs needs to learn the art of simplicity, rather than talking about every, I wanted to see it but couldn't moment. The fact that he states in the acknowledgments that the book would have been much longer kind of freaks me out. The only thing that I wanted to hear about was his reunion with his dog, which he never mentions. The whole thing left me shrugging.
To start with I quite enjoyed this book but then I found it to be evry repititious and, consequently, boring. One hair-raising bus-ride and sub-standard accommodation after another. I managed to get through a couple of hundred pages and then ground to an unsatisfactory halt.
Jacobs's descriptions of many of the people that he met on his travels were cutting, supercilious and demeaning.
In the early part of the book he describes himself as a polymath which (I had to look it up!) is "A polymath (Greek: πολυμαθής, polymathēs, "having learned much")[1] is a person whose expertise spans a significant number of different subject areas. In less formal terms, a polymath (or polymathic person) may simply be someone who is very knowledgeabl". Obviously, modesty is not one of this author's strong points.
I didn't enjoy this as much as Ghost Train but it is a really interesting book all the same. I possibly didn't learn as much about the countries as I hoped but MJ is such a vivid writer that I enjoyed the journey with him.
Two days before I would embark on my first South America trip, at Berkeley's Moe's, one of America's most beloved bookstore, in the travel section I bumped my toe into this work. And just before my plane touched down at Lima, I had finished reading this 500 page tome. And yes, this could be a useful hallmark to books I would find to be written for me. The author here embarks on the Andes with a supremely noble sentiment - not mountaineering: he is apparently not athletic enough to enjoy that. but - to gaze at the peaks of mountains and be immersed in the grandiosity of earth and its willingness to indulge in the aesthetic demands of men. Such sentiments affectively draw me. And better this book approaches the Andes through the personas of other figures. He takes men of history as his guides, just as I do, hence Simon Bolivar through the Northern Andes and New Granada, Alexander Humboldt and Aime Bonpland, Charles Condamine and the geodesics in Ecuador, Hiram Bingham in the Incan Andes, Charles Darwin and Captain Fitzroy through Patagonia, and (thank god!) Alberto and Che. He is accompanied also by writers Neruda (Gabriel Minstral would have made good company too), Christopher Isherwood, Vargas Llosa, and Bruce Chatwin (and I am grateful to him for exposing the petty savant-hood of his Patagonia book that I loved so much). There were delightful discoveries too on the way: artists Frederic Church and William Forest, and photographer Martin Chambi (whose work I have had the fortune of beholding since I arrived in South America). Unlike many other travel-writers, the author lets the historical and cultural depth, the complex resonances, and the melody of each city: Merida in Venezuela, Medellin in Colombia, Quito whose very label in this book "Andean Baroque" gave me wings, Chavin de Huantar (which I unfortunatelly missed in my Peru tour), and Mendoza in Argentina. The book however was uneven in its indulgence in the inner world of the writer. The miracle of travel and travel writing has always been in the poetics of interior resonance. The world outside enlivens the world inside or the world inside sings melodies with the world outside. The book did not always seem to entertain this possibility. The book's greatest strength - the use of the guides I named came to stunt it occasionally. While they should have offered insights to the regions trekked, they could occasionally become filters on the eyes. But gradually the writer seems to have outgrown this mistake. I particularly appreciated the book's critique of the Indigenista ideology through the spectacle of Maria Llosa. Finally - several times Jacobs made me squirm with his apologies to the Spanish Empire.
An intriguing tale of Jacob's own journey following the Andes from North to South. Jacob's travel style is a mix of meticulous preparation in terms of historical research and seemingly spur of the moment decisions to get to a know a place better. He doesn't shy away from following a random idea proposed by someone else, and it gives the reader some inspiration to do the same. Although mostly focused on the historical and cultural aspect of places throughout the Andes, there are details of the physical landscape which will inspire as well. I read this book as a bit of base level research to understand the Andes better so I can travel to various parts of the range in the future, and I did find it useful in helping set that baseline.
An excellent travel book. The author follows the train of explorer-naturalist Humboldt and South American Liberator Simon de Bolivar, tracing the Andes from North to South. He does not take the shortest routes and travels mostly by the local buses. Excellent writing brings you close to the amazing landscape, interesting people, as well as a walk through history. High adventures is to be had on the bus routes through the mountains, with the uncertain roads, landslides, vehicles in poor repair and long-long journeys between towns. One of my favorite sentences "Luckily, I was still unaware of the statistical likelihood of being involved in a fatal bus accident during the Peruvian rainy season."
With my Spanish only good enough to make part-way through a menu, I know I would never be able to travel as he did, fluent enough to make connections with the local people whose lives bring so much to this book. And it goes with out saying I would not be riding these busses. But what a book!
This is a hefty book, but well written and interesting. Jacobs has spent a lot of time in South America and here he narrated a trip along the length of the longest mountain chain on earth, from Venezuela to Tierra del Fuego. He describes the current cities and landscapes, but also delves into the history of the place and refers to other travelers as well. He refers frequently to the travels and observations of von Humboldt and Darwin. The Incas are a big draw to the Andes, and Jacobs describes their culture, but also points out they are relatively modern and he describes much more ancient societies as well. Of course, be describes the Spanish colonization and impact, and also the wars of liberation from Spain, focusing on Bolivar and San Martin. Jacobs loves to take pot shots at other travel writers, like Chatwin and Theroux, but even that is fun.
Monumental effort by Michael Jacobs who traveled the length of the Andes from Venezuela to Puerto Williams in Chile over several months in 2006. Amazing descriptions of the land, mountains and people, from small villages to great South American cities like Caracas, Bogota, Cali, La Paz and Quito. Followed the trail of 18th and 19th century naturalist Alexander von Humboldt and the great liberators Simon Bolivar and San Martin. A lot of personal reflections, a lot of history and a lot of travelogue. Highly recommended.
I very rarely abandon a book once I've started reading one, but there are too many good ones to waste time pushing yourself to read a novel you aren't enjoying, so I abandoned this one about a third of the way through.
I found Jacobs patronising at times and too often he didn't speak of the local people with respect, rather he spoke with ignorance, indifference and at some points, with derision and condescension. I can't speak for the rest of the book, but I didn't enjoy the first third. I was looking forward to reading an Andean adventure instead I was bored and irritated.
I found this book by querying "Andes" in Overdrive, and it was one of two titles that came up (Death in the Andes by Vargas Llosa was the other).
It seemed a good topic to explore during our trip to Ecuador, and it really was. I loved the part on Ecuador but also the portions for northwestern Argentina and Patagonia. Clearly our travels need to take us to Peru and Colombia as well.
I found I couldn't put the book down, really enjoying his descriptions of the history, scenery, people, and general travel adventures.
I have travelled large bits of Michael Jacob´s Andes route myself in the past and therefore recognized not only the geographical sites and trajectory but also MJ´s comments about the places and the means of transportation. What MJ adds to the ordinary travelogue is what makes this book extra interesting : information from famous travellers´journals, scientific articles etc. And this all without forgetting a pinch of typical British sense of humour...very enjoyable!
Journeying the length of the Andes mountain range, Jacobs crosses paths with, among others, 19th century naturalist Alexander von Humboldt, liberator Simon Bolivar, the Incas and their predecessors and their Spanish conquerors. A vivid introduction to the history and striking natural beauty of the spine of the South American continent.
Jacobs writes a travelogue following in the footsteps of Simon Bolivar throughout he Andes. He gives a historical perspective as well as what happened on his journey. He began in Venezuela and ended up in Tierra del Fuego. Wonderful read
Very detailed travel book by an informed, literate, connected and experienced South American traveler. One can only hope to be as well informed, and yet interested, about any region being traveled as Mr. Jacobs appears to be about his.
Probably shouldn't have taken on such a big book for subway reading. Messed with the flow, and felt like it was never going to end. It wasn't bad; there was some great background about the region that I hope to remember for work in coming years. It just didn't interest me that much.
Disappointing. It promised a lot, and sounded really interesting, but it became a chore to get through this. I also found it a bit trite and full of rich middle-class contrived coincidences. Nobody the author meets comes across as at all representative of South America. Not good.
Having spent many years in the Andes,I enjoyed reading about places I know well. Jacobs made me remember the gracious courtesy of Andean peoples as well as the roads with the awful precipices, mudslides and blinding fog. He takes the reader into the experience.
I enjoyed this author's style of writing. It's one part history, one part travelogue. You travel with him, see what he sees, meet who he meets. It's a revelation of South America, and fuels one's desire to see it firsthand.
I loved this book for it's mix of history geography, philosophy and more. Today I read of Michael Jacobs' death. How sad. I will certainly read more of his work.
A compilation of well-researched notes interspersed with a bit of a travelogue but It didn't engage or entertain and I don't even feel like I learned anything important from it