Isabelle Varlet, charming and naïve, comes from a long line of seamstresses in a small town in France. A series of unfortunate events and her prodigious sartorial talent carry her to Paris, which in the wake of World War I is electric with new life. When Isabelle takes a job in the atelier of Coco Chanel, the rising star of haute couture, she finds herself in the heart of a glamorous and ruthless world filled with arrogant designers, handsome men, beautiful women, and fashion thieves who prowl Paris hoping to steal designs before they hit the runway.
In Chanel's workshop, Isabelle thrives on the time-honored techniques of couture -- the pains-taking hand stitches, the perfect fall of fabric -- and the sleek, pared-down lines of "Mademoiselle's" revolutionary style. As Isabelle brings an exquisite dress to life for the fall collection -- from its embryonic origins in humble muslin to its finished form in the finest silk -- she navigates the tempestuous moods of Chanel, the cutthroat antics of her fellow workers, and her own search for love.
Just as she did in her critically acclaimed novel I Am Madame X, Gioia Diliberto brings a rich historical moment to life through her vivid and compelling storytelling. Her penetrating research and imagination are gracefully woven together in this poignant story filled with larger-than-life characters embroiled in scandalous tales, passionate love affairs, and extraordinary careers. The Collection is an exuberantly entertaining read.
Gioia Diliberto is the author of eight books -- three historical novels and five nonfiction narratives -- and a play. Her writing, which focuses on women's lives, has been praised for combining rich storytelling and literary grace with deep research to bring alive worlds as varied as Jazz Age Paris, nineteenth century Chicago, Belle Epoque Paris, disco era Manhattan, and Prohibition New York. Her books have been translated into several languages, and her articles have appeared in many publications, including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, the Chicago Tribune, the Los Angeles Times, Smithsonian, Town & Country, and Vanity Fair. She also teaches writing and has taught at DePaul and Northwestern Universities and the Savannah College of Art and Design.
Gioia is the mother of a grown son and lives in Woodbury, Connecticut with her husband.
The story of a talented seamstress, who rises in ranks working for Coco Chanel is written with a fun creative language. The main character at the age of 10 creates her first outfit, after creating many for her dolls. It was summed up as being created ‘when she must have had a nightmare.’ Nevertheless, at the age of 17 she becomes an apprentice to a woman, who once worked for Coco Chanel. With the woman’s encouragement and letter of recommendation, the young woman moves to Paris.
The descriptions of how Parisian designers think through their creations and critique others are very vivid and realistic.
The story begins very engaging. It seems as it still holds in the middle, but the end is so slow. The preparation for summer collection takes center stage. It’s all about cutting, stitching and fitting, not enough to keep a reader engaged.
Overall, I liked the story. I thought it would be a 5 star read until I got to the end. Therefore, 4 stars. But because of such slow end, which seemed to be going forever, I probably would have given 3,5 stars if that was possible.
As a seamstress this book SPOKE to me! The Collection is a lovely story about a young women who finds herself, love (of couture) and life through her time in Paris in the early 1900's as a couture/master seamstress with the best houses in Paris (e.g., Chanel). The book was one of those works that I just didn't want to end because I was so a part of her world (or least fantasize about being a part of that high fashion and expert couture world!). A must read for the sewists in the world!
This is the story of a young woman working in the haute couture industry in Paris shortly after the first world war. It's rather interesting to read the account of how Coco Chanel came up with her collection. And that's the issue with the book for me. Isabelle, in theory the main character, is really just being used as a device so that the author can talk about Chanel. She's really the main character and the book pales a bit when Chanel fades into the background.
I really enjoyed this book which is saying a lot since reading fiction has been difficult for me lately. Over the years I've fallen in love with nonfiction, especially history and biography. I recently read Diliberto's other fictional work, "I Am Madame X" and am drawn to her writing style. She typically writes nonfiction, and so her fiction is full of her tenacious research; less dialogue than one comes to expect in fiction. To my utter delight she also includes a selected bibliography and author's note, both gems when found in fictional works.
I noticed mixed reviews for this book and I think it may have to do with this not being written like a typical romance or women's fiction. The protagonist is written deceptively simple. Some reviewers found her weak or lacking in substance. I believe the author cleverly used her as a conduit into the world of couture, allowing the reader to experience what life for a seamstress really would have been like in 1919- Paris. It was refreshing to have the focus be on something other than a grand romance. Some may argue nothing much happens, to which the entire point of the book is sadly missed. This book felt more honest to me than most neatly, tied up with a bow, dialogue filled novels that seem popular today. I eagerly look forward to reading more by this author.
This was a wonderful story. If you are fan of fashion and the couture industry this fictional account of what it "might" have been like to work for Coco Chanel in the earliest days of her house should interest you.
Small-town girl Isabelle Varlet comes to Paris with an ability to sew, a letter of introduction to Gabrielle Chanel, and big dreams but not much else. She's lucky enough to be hired on as a seamstress, and so begins a whirlwind of a career working for arguably the most famous clothing designer ever.
Although the story is fiction, the author has clearly done research on the era and the couture industry, as well as Coco Chanel herself, and so the book is quite believeable as to what it might have been like to be one of the many underappreciated women who toiled to create the clothes that made Chanel so famous and successful.
There is all the angst and drama one would naturally expect when reading about large groups of talented but competitive women, and the story the author weaves around the characters is entertaining, tantalizing and exciting - much like the clothes Chanel designed.
This is a fast and easy read, but highly enjoyable and engaging. Particularly the heroine Isabelle, is extremely likeable and we root for her and hope for her success in both couture and love throughout the story as she expands as a seamstress and designer in her own right. A wonderful story.”
Isabelle Varlet, a sweet and gifted seamstress moves to Paris after WW I. She is recovering from the deaths of her fiancee and cherished family members. The author is a good storyteller and I eagerly read about all the intriques in the world of high fashion. I learned of the difficulty and the excitement of working for the tempestuous Coco Chanel and other arrogant designers. The author's research illuminated this period in history for me while providing a story I quickly devoured.
Well, at least I *read* a book about something other than pregnancy and childbirth this winter! Of course, this novel is about sewing, so one could say I was cheating and just fantasizing about baby projects as I read... Diliberto's book is silly and rather flat, but I enjoyed the technical details and the main character's enthusiasm for her craft (she would say, art). Beach read!
The book was pretty good until the end. She got to a very important part of the story and then copped out by skipping to an epilogue forty years later rather than actually telling the rest of the story. So I ended up being disappointed.
3.5 stars. Really was a lovely book. I was impressed with the amount of research put into this story. A couple of years ago, my boyfriend at the time took me to Paris. And one of the first places I drug him to was Rue Cambon. I had to see the Chanel storefront. And standing in front of it, I was awed at the woman who created the legend. My boyfriend kept urging me to go inside but I wouldn't. I was scared it wouldn't live up to my ideas, my expectations of what I thought those iconic C's stood for. But I never gave a thought to the seamstresses who labored over the stitches. The ones behind the scenes who really made the clothes. When I finished this book, I sat there for a few minutes wondering who had made the pajamas I had on. Who made the clothes I wore yesterday? And granted, my rolled up jeans and havaianas are not by any means couture, but someone made them nonetheless. I appreciate a book that makes me think about things I haven't thought about before.
Very dry and boring account of Channel and Post WW1 Paris. I am a seamstress and normally am drawn to a book such as this one and find merit where others do not. So, I waited and hoped for this story to take off but tragically it never did. Paris must have been exciting and alive and vibrant at this time in history but I couldn't feel it slogging through this novel.
This had so much potential but it fell flat for me. The plot became a bit boring and a little dragged out. It still gave some interesting insight into what couture was like during that time.
Das kleine Schwarze ist ein Roman von der Autorin Gioia Diliberto. Es ist am 01. Mai 2010 als Taschenbuch im Knaur Verlag erschienen.
Inhalt
Das kleine Schwarze spielt in den 20er Jahren in der Hauptstadt Frankreichs, nämlich Paris. Die junge Isabelle Varlet leidet schon seit Jahren an der Schwindsucht und hat während ihrer Krankheit das Nähen von ihrer Großmutter gelernt. Nun bekommt sie eine Stelle als Schneiderin in Paris in einem Atelier der Coco Chanel, die gerade zu einer Berühmtheit aufstrebt. Doch das Leben einer Parisienne ist ein kompletter Unterschied zu dem Leben, das Isabelle sonst geführt hat. Sie stürzt in eine Welt der Extreme. Ob sie dem Druck standhalten kann und sich einen Namen schafft?
Erster Satz
„Statt zu sterben, lernte ich zu nähen.“
Meinung
Die Covergestaltung passt perfekt zur Geschichte im Buch. Verschiedene Kleider sind dort an Modepuppen aufgezogen und stellen damit den Beruf der Protagonistin dar. Außerdem wird ein Teil einer Frau in einem schwarzen Kleid gezeigt, das auch gleichzeitig den Titel des Buches unterstreicht.
Das Buch selbst ist aus der Sicht von der Protagonistin Isabelle Varlet geschrieben, die dem Leser ihre Geschichte erzählt. Dadurch bekommt man jederzeit die Gedanken und Gefühle der Varlet übermittelt und kann sich sehr gut in die Probleme hineinversetzen. Besonders gut fand ich, dass die Autorin am Ende des Buches eine Übersicht erstellt hat, die die wichtigsten Berufsbezeichnungen enthielt und diese beschrieb, so dass sich der Leser dort Informationen holen konnte, um die Handlung besser verstehen zu können.
Die Geschichte selbst ist flüssig geschrieben und durch viele Absätze gekennzeichnet. Mir persönlich hat das den Lesefluss erleichtert, andere Leser könnte es aber irritieren, weil die Absätze zum Teil auch mitten in einer Handlung gesetzt werden. Viele kleine Details machen es außerdem möglich, sich die Mode vorstellen zu können, genauso wie die Ateliers und Anlässe.
Während der gesamten Handlung gibt es immer wieder kleine Höhepunkte, die nachher zu dem großen, besonderen Abschluss führen. Dabei fühlt man als Leser die Hektik, die sich in den Ateliers ausbreitet. Außerdem baut ein bestimmter Vorfall einen Spannungsbogen auf, dessen Auflösung immer wieder neu gestrickt und der Leser verwirrt wird. Bis zum Ende ist eher unbekannt, wie dieser Handlungsstrang ausgehen wird. Außerdem fühlt man die Kämpfe der unterschiedlichen Modemacher und die gewisse Arroganz der Society.
Isabelle Varlet ist eine authentische Protagonistin, die sehr sympathisch wirkt und durch ihre Zielstrebigkeit überzeugt. Wenn sie sich ein Ziel gesetzt hat, dann setzt sie alles daran und vergisst sogar Hunger und Müdigkeit. Durch ihre freundliche Aura macht sie sich auch bei ihren Kollegen zum Freund und kann im entscheidenden Moment auf diese zählen. Ihre Chefin Chanel dagegen, die meist nur Mademoiselle genannt wird, zeigt eindeutig ihre kühle, erhabene, arrogant wirkende Seite, die sie eher unsympathisch erscheinen lässt. In ihrem Kopf dreht sich alles um ihre Kollektion. Dabei beachtet sie gar nicht, dass die Kreationen in aufwendiger Handarbeit und mit viel Zeitaufwand von ihren Näherinnen geschneidert wurden. Das zeigt sich ganz deutlich auch am Ende der Handlung. Daniel, der in der Handlung auch eine wichtige Rolle spielt, wirkt sehr geheimnisvoll, weil man als Leser nie genau weiß, was man von ihm halten soll und nicht in seine Gedanken- und Gefühlswelt eindringen kann. Trotzdem wirkte er auf mich persönlich noch sympathisch.
Fazit
Ein gelungener Roman über das Leben in der Zeit der Coco Chanel, der zeigt, dass auch eine junge Dame vom Land ihren Traum verwirklichen kann, wenn sie nur zielstrebig genug und von sich selbst überzeugt ist.
Isabelle takes a job in the atalier of Coco Chanel and finds herself in the heart of the glamorous and ruthless fashion world.
Isabelle Varlet, charming and naïve, comes from a long line of seamstresses in a small town in France. A series of unfortunate events and her prodigious sartorial talent carry her to Paris, which in the wake of World War I is electric with new life. When Isabelle takes a job in the atelier of Coco Chanel, the rising star of haute couture, she finds herself in the heart of a glamorous and ruthless world filled with arrogant designers, handsome men, beautiful women, and fashion thieves who prowl Paris hoping to steal designs before they hit the runway. In Chanel's workshop, Isabelle thrives on the time-honored techniques of couture -- the pains-taking hand stitches, the perfect fall of fabric -- and the sleek, pared-down lines of "Mademoiselle's" revolutionary style. As Isabelle brings an exquisite dress to life for the fall collection -- from its embryonic origins in humble muslin to its finished form in the finest silk -- she navigates the tempestuous moods of Chanel, the cutthroat antics of her fellow workers, and her own search for love.
Just as she did in her critically acclaimed novel I Am Madame X, Gioia Diliberto brings a rich historical moment to life through her vivid and compelling storytelling. Her penetrating research and imagination are gracefully woven together in this poignant story filled with larger-than-life characters embroiled in scandalous tales, passionate love affairs, and extraordinary careers. The Collection is an exuberantly entertaining read.
Its been some years since I saw the movie "Coco Avant Chanel", but that is what I thought of when reading this book.
It was wonderful to delve into a seamstress' life...I wish I could make clothes like Isabelle and the other women in the book do. I think that Chanel was life-changing to many women during the years right after WWI. She changed the style to being more simple and elegant and ran with it.
I liked her guys, her brazenness, and her clothes. Isabelle to me...she's a good character but I wish she would have been bolder. I wish she had started her own high rise shop, fallen in love with someone other than Daniel, and rivaled Chanel.
Overall, I loved delving into Chanel's world more and I think now maybe I should re watch that film.
The subject matter of this historical novel rescues it from being ordinary. It is a glimpse into the world of haute couture through the eyes of a principal seamstress for Coco Chanel. The cut-throat competition and business intrigues were interesting but predictable.
It is a very quick read because parts of it almost beg you to skim over them. The Collection would be a life-saver on an airplane or similar environment where you required distraction without investing too much intellectual capital.
So, why did I say I liked it? It had just enough historical content in it to make me feel like I learned something. Not alot, but something.
I have read worse.. but I have also read better. I did not find this novel very remarkable, due to a rather weak leading woman. Seamstress Isabelle Varlet, the heroine of the book takes us thru the days of early fashion and introduces us to Coco Channel. The novel gives tremendous insight into the drama and workings of the fashion industry, but the heroine is rather ordinary and in between the fashion and clothes details is mundane, boring excerpts from her mundane, boring life. I prefer stronger characters with more life, vitality, and guts. The writing style was excellent tho and I enjoyed the first person narrative.
This book is for anyone who loves fashion. It follows a young seamstress in post-WWI Paris who gets a job working for Chanel. The detail is amazing and it had me longing for a glimpse of the understated elegance that Chanel brought to the world. I also enjoyed hearing about the other couture designers of the time and their methods. It also showed that not much has changed in the fashion world and that designers are still as egotistical as they were back then (think The Devil Wears Prada but worse).
I was able to finish at work in one week and it was nice to read during breaks. The bad thing about the book is I was waiting for something to happen. Instead I felt like I was reading a biography of a persons life, like Diane Von Furstenberg. At the end when the book starts to get good it ends! I gave it three stars.
I enjoyed this book. I loved reading about all of the different designers and all of the gorgeous dresses! I had a problem with the main character. I thought she was flat and boring. The author tried to portray her as a naive girl but sometimes she came across as quite rude. This is still a great book if your interested in fashion!
I loved this book. As a fashion historian, reading historical fiction about what life was like working in Paris for designers is fascinating. This book had been on my "to-read" list for years, and I'm so glad I finally got around to it. If you enjoy fashion, French couture and history, you should also enjoy this.
Read this because I'm hosting the event at Women and CHildren First. Not my usual kind of book. Kind of like Devil Wears Prada set in Chanel's atelier. Good for if you like chick lit with a historical bent.
The story was well told. I enjoyed reading the descriptions of clothes that were part of the story. Although having worked with clothes as a dresser for live theater, I felt more connected to the design process through this book.
Such a cool book; it's the story of a seamstress to Coco Chanel at the beginning of her empire (historical fiction). It tells about the dressmaking, the copies and Paris/France at the time.
This book is not trite because of the subject matter; very well done and puts a voice to Chanel.
It was good, but nothing amazing. It was fun to just speculate what it would be like to be a seamstress, especially for my all time favorite designer. It was a great quick read, I recommend it for anyone who loves fashion and this time period.
I enjoyed this authors previous book "I am Madame X" so I really wanted to read "The Collection". Only having a moderate interest in fashion, I found this interesting but not captivating. If I was a fashion junkie I think I would have really liked it.
I enjoyed this gentle book. There was not much oomph to it or really much action at all, but that was ok with me. I loved learning about the world of couture in the early 1900s. I only wish the author would have included a picture of "Angeline"!
an amazing historical novel that takes the reader back to the golden age of couture in Paris. A great read I would recommend to all my fashion friends :)