In Britain, where I’m based, Paul Hollywood has become one of the most, if not the most, well-known names in baking. He’s one of two judges on the wildly popular TV show The Great British Bake Off, on which he dishes out harsh but fair and very knowledgeable comments on the bakers’ efforts. Prior to becoming a judge, Hollywood had already made a name for himself as a well-respected and successful baker, supplying British institutions such as Harrods and Waitrose. In 2008, he had the rather dubious claim to fame of having produced the most expensive loaf of bread in Britain — a roquefort and almond sourdough loaf, a snap at £15/loaf and which he referred to as the ‘Rolls Royce’ of breads.
So what’s his book like? It’s good. Pretty good. Not bad. Not amazing. I’m rather keen on a bit of food porn, and on this front How to Bake doesn’t really cut it. Hollywood stares out of the cover, all silver spiky hair and piercing blue eyes, which apparently some find rather dashing. He was greeted by screams when he took the stage at the Cake and Bake Show.
Inside, the styling is ok but not inspiring. Fairly standard baking shots, layout is clear and nice fonts. In terms of content, again it’s ok but not amazing. It’s a solid book. It begins with a walk through of ingredients, and gives a good explanation of flour types, protein content, yeast, fats and so on. Hollywood explains the role they play in breadmaking in a simple, short way. For example, he tells you that salt is important for ‘strengthening gluten’ but doesn’t go further than that. If you want a basic introduction, this is it. For the amateur home baker, it will be sufficient.
The section on techniques is good, with clear pictures showing you how to mix, knead and so forth.
There’s a good selection of recipes, starting with basic breads like white tin loaf, a white cob, a wholemeal loaf and so on. He ranges as far as a fougasse and baguettes. It’s standard stuff and a good range of the sort of basic breads most home bakers will want to make. The recipes work well and the instructions are good.
So far, so standard. How to Bake picks up a bit when we get to the flavoured breads. Hollywood offers some interesting flavour combos — Stilton and Grape Flatbreads, Flatbreads with Epoisse and Bacon, and Gorgonzola, Pear and Walnut Bakes. If this is your thing, then there’s a nice selection of recipes to try.
Moving on from the flavoured breads, Hollywood delves into sourdough and things get interesting. There’s basic instructions for how to get started with sourdough — making a starter, proving and the like. There are basic recipes for baguettes, pain de campagne and seeded sourdough. The chapter comes into its own when Hollywood explores flavoured sourdough. Then we get into sourdoughs combined with lemon and rosemary, chocolate and apricot, bacon and garlic and my favourite – sourdough filled with Epoisses cheese. There are some truly fun, inspiring recipes here for the sourdough enthusiast.
The final chapters cover sweet yeasted doughs. The recipes are sound — the Danish pastry one works well — but the photography is a little on the bland side for my taste. Here you’ll find recipes for most of the classics — croissants, danishes, brioche, pain au chocolat — which rounds out the collection well, making How to Bake a useful, comprehensive first book on bread baking. It’s good for the newcomer, but has some interesting recipes to stretch those with more experience. It’s a book I turn to when I need a recipe for something fundamental, and I’m usually confident that the recipes are well-tested and likely to succeed. It’s not a book for poring (and salivating) over, but it’s a useful, well-produced collection that will be a good addition to any baker’s library. And the creme patissiere recipe is a knock-out!