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An aspiring chef's moving account of finding her way—in the kitchen and beyond—after a tragic accident destroys her sense of smell
At twenty-two, just out of college, Molly Birnbaum spent her nights reading cookbooks and her days working at a Boston bistro, preparing to start training at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. She knew exactly where she wanted the life ahead to lead: She wanted to be a chef. But shortly before she was due to matriculate, she was hit by a car while out for a run in Boston. The accident fractured her skull, broke her pelvis, tore her knee to shreds—and destroyed her sense of smell. The flesh and bones would heal...but her sense of smell?And not being able to smell meant not being able to cook. She dropped her cooking school plans, quit her restaurant job, and sank into a depression.
Season to Taste is the story of what came next: how she picked herself up and set off on a grand, entertaining quest in the hopes of learning to smell again. Writing with the good cheer and great charm of Laurie Colwin or Ruth Reichl, she explores the science of olfaction, pheromones, and Proust's madeleine; she meets leading experts, including the writer Oliver Sacks, scientist Stuart Firestein, and perfumer Christophe Laudamiel; and she visits a pioneering New Jersey flavor lab, eats at Grant Achatz's legendary Chicago restaurant Alinea, and enrolls at a renowned perfume school in the South of France, all in an effort to understand and overcome her condition.
A moving personal story packed with surprising facts about our senses, Season to Taste is filled with unforgettable descriptions of the smells Birnbaum rediscovers—from cinnamon, cedarwood, and fresh bagels to rosemary chicken, lavender, and apple pie—as she falls in love, learns to smell from scratch, and starts, once again, to cook.
324 pages, Kindle Edition
First published June 21, 2011
[...]I knew that if damaged, the sense of smell could come back. That it could return in mysterious ways, ebbing and flowing with my emotions, turning around with words, flipping with color or sound. But I had been avoiding deeper scientific understanding for close to two years. I found in the numb months that I lived in an odorless, textureless world that I just didn't want to know. I found in the exciting, colorful months of return that I didn't care how or why. [...]
I could now smell the milk-white steam of my coffee and the floral haze of perfume emanating from teh woman who sat to my right. But my sense was far from fully restored. I couldn't detect the intricacies of Syrian oregano or lemon thyme, the herbs that were once so relevant to my daily life. [...]
[T]hen again one Saturday morning, my kitchen filled with the scent of fresh-brewed coffee, I looked at the oven, the door of which I rarely cracked. I remembered the calm I once felt when cutting butter, sifting flour, and kneading dough. I remembered the slow rhythm to the mixer's whirl, the clank of heat from the stove. And I thought: I will bake.
I began again with bread.
-p. 138-140
"Smells plug us in," Jonathan Mueller, a neuropsychiatrist in San Francisco, told me. A friend of Oliver Sacks, Mueller had a private practice, which, according to his whimsical website that floats quotes from Nietzsche and neuroscientist Eric Kandel across the screen, deals in psychotherapy and pharmacology; disorders of anxiety and mood and pain.
- p 164