When last heard from in these pages, Eric and his indefatigable wife Wanda were traveling around the Mediterranean by various kinds of motorized conveyance. In Round Ireland in Low Gear, they are traveling around, not surprisingly, Ireland, by bicycle. What is surprising is that they chose to make this trip in the winter of 1985-1986, under completely horrible conditions.
They encountered rain, more rain, yet more rain, sleet, a little snow, gale force winds and a devastating thunderstorm that knocked out the electricity in much of rural Ireland. What was more, in pre cellphone days, they made this trip without reservations. Often, they arrived after dark at a village where they expected to find a hotel to spend the night and instead discovered that said hotel was closed for the season, along with nearly every other commercial enterprise in the town. This meant they had to pick up and ride more miles to find a bed and breakfast.
Along with ghastly weather, the Newbys encountered dozens of ruined castles, hill forts, ruined churches and great houses and odd religious sites which they conscienciously visited, often going miles out of their way in the dark and wet, to report to us. Also visited were places where the Irish had battled Cromwell, the Spanish (if you want to know the fate of the ships of the Spanish Armada, this is the book for you,) the Vikings, each other and various magical beings, such as the Tuatha De Danaan, "a tall race with magical propensities" who fought the Firbolgs, a short dark people, on the Plain of Southern Moytura.
I remember reading a children's book about Ireland and being impressed by how many different armies had invaded it. This book gives much more detail.
Along with descriptions of rain and ruins, Round Ireland contains many witty descriptions of the Irish people they encountered, issues with train timetables, bus drivers and the like, and appreciative passages about the bed and breakfasts where they finally found shelter and were saved from death by hypothermia. The reader cannot say that Newby has not done his research. On the first leg of their trip, Newby estimated he was carrying about 14 pounds worth of guidebooks, "most of which I by now realized I could have done without." "The question was," Newby continues, "which ones could I do without."
The book contains scraps of Irish poetry, including a ballad composed to commemorate the ambush in 1920, of two truck loads of British soldiers by the Irish Republican Army. The verse ends, "And the Irish Republican Army/Made balls of the whole fucking lot."
I love Eric Newby and his dry wit. If you find him amusing and are interested in rural Ireland, you will love this book. If you think he is a stuck up snot who makes fun of the locals, you will not love this book.