Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority

by Sue Fishkoff

Kosher? That means the rabbi blessed it, right? Not exactly. In this captivating account of a Bible-based practice that has grown into a multibillions-dollar industry, journalist Sue Fishkoff travels throughout America and to Shanghai, China, to find out who eats kosher food, who produces it, who is responsible for its certification, and how this fascinating world continues to evolve. She explains why 86 percent of the 11.2 million Americans who regularly buy kosher food are not observant Jews—they are Muslims, Seventh-day Adventists, vegetarians, people with food allergies, and consumers who pay top dollar for food they believe “answers to a higher authority.” Fishkoff interviews food manufacturers, rabbinic supervisors, and ritual slaughterers; meets with eco-kosher adherents who go beyond traditional requirements to produce organic chicken and pasture-raised beef; sips boutique kosher wine in Napa Valley; talks to shoppers at an upscale kosher supermarket in Brooklyn; and marches with unemployed workers at the nation’s largest kosher meatpacking plant. She talks to Reform Jews who are rediscovering the spiritual benefits of kashrut, and to Conservative and Orthodox Jews who are demanding that kosher food production adhere to ethical and environmental values. And she chronicles the corruption, price-fixing, and strong arm tactics of early-twentieth-century kosher meat production, against which contemporary kashrut standards pale by comparison. A revelatory look at the current state of kosher in America, this book will appeal to anyone interested in food, religion, Jewish identity, or big business.

Genres: Judaism, Jewish, Food, Nonfiction, Judaica, Religion, School

299 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2010

Reviews

[Elana · Rating 5 out of 5]

A 5-star book, IMHO. Thorough, incredibly well-researched history and contemporary analysis of kosher food and practice, mostly in the U.S., but a bit globally as well. The most difficult chapters to read were the final two, as they forced me to confront two of the most important issues for kosher-keeping people today: when kosher food isn't ethically sound, and how to merge valuing environmental sustainability and keeping kosher.

[Warren Friedman · Rating 5 out of 5]

I finished reading this about a month ago. Gosh, I read so many books and I'm just getting active on this site, and loving it! This was a fascinating book, to me! All the behind-the-scenes of kosher. So much stuff I never knew. And all the scandals and corruption in the kosher world, some intentional, some unintentional. Who knew? And that there are teeny tiny bugs in almost everything we eat which comes from the ground and no matter how many times you wash blueberries you can virtually never get out all the bugs, so Jews should never eat blueberries. (Yet they sell blueberries at Gourmet Glatt by me! What gives? Stop eating blueberries, Jews!) It was also about Jews who keep semblances of kosher, for various reasons, though they're not observant (something I related to, I thought I was the only one!) Oh and what it takes to kosher a kitchen at a hotel for a wedding. OMG, I was overwhelmed and exhausted just reading it. Oh and then it detailed and documenting the slaughtering process, which was harrowing, kosher or non-kosher. It really made me want to go vegetarian, something I'm still interested in. Anyway, fabulous and fascinating book. I had previously read this author's book about the Lubavitcher (OMG, that's actually in spell check!) Jews, and that also was really great!

[Gwen · Rating 3 out of 5]

An eye-opening book that reiterated some of what I thought to be true, dismissed some of what I thought to be true and codified some of what I thought to be true. I remain impressed that so many people who deliberately or specifically buy kosher products do so for "other" reasons (more healthful, vegan, Hindu, etc.). It remains to be seen if the kosher/CSA/organic model is sustainable, and whether some of these things will arrive in cities outside the large Jewish population centers (especially on the East coast). For those of us in small towns, bakeries and butchers are often non-existent or an extremely rare commodity and therefore much more challenging.

[Paulo Reimann · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very good

Sue Fishkoff dismistifies why almost all food in the US grocery stores have the small circle with an u inside. Circle U. All is a matter of trust. In Brazil, where I live, kosher certified food pops out all around. From milk to nuts, meat to fish.

[Ayelet · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was an interesting summary of the kosher food industry but at times too detailed. I wonder how she found all of the people that she interviewed. I especially liked the stories that I could relate to - I remember when Oreo cookies became kosher and when the kosher Subway opened at the Cleveland JCC.

[Avi · Rating 3 out of 5]

Well researched and an unbiased look at all aspects of the industry

[Paul Froehlich · Rating 5 out of 5]

All consumers buy kosher products, whether they know it or not. Even products not aimed at Jews, such as Easter bunnies and Christmas candy, may be certified kosher.

So why has the kosher food industry expanded so far beyond Jewish consumers? The main reason, explains Sue Fishkoff, is that kosher food appeals to consumers who have no religious motivation, but who perceive kosher food as better quality and safer than noncertified alternatives. That’s why food manufacturers willingly pay fees ranging from a few hundred dollars to $100,000 or more a year. In return, they are authorized to put the kosher symbol on their products.

The author describes the process required for products to qualify as kosher. Keeping a kosher kitchen is a formidable undertaking, since the rules have become increasingly strict over time. To purify dishwashers and ovens, for example, one must either use a blowtorch or run the oven at top heat for 3 hours after scrubbing it. The difficulty of following the rules is one reason many Jews shun only pork, but don’t comply with the variety of other dietary rules.

Fishkoff asks interesting questions about the future of the kosher food industry. “Is there really a need for that much K-certified food? Will millions of non-Jewish consumers continue to pay a premium for the kosher label?”

[Liss Carmody · Rating 3 out of 5]

Never have I learned so much about kosher certification, the kosher food industry as a whole, and the history of keeping kosher in America. Along the way I learned a fair bit about kosher food laws (and the general differences between Orthodox, Conservative, and Reform communities). Mostly this book focused on the industry, however, although it dove into the issues of ethical food (particularly meat) consumption towards the end and discussed grass-roots movements to produce small quantities of meat that meets both high kosher and ethical standards. Highlights for me were the young couple at the beginning who were becoming more observant and learning how to kasher their home kitchen, and the groups at the end who arranged to ritually slaughter goats and chickens themselves, so they could ensure they met their high standards.

Also, I had to go through my cupboard and refrigerator to see what foods I had that had kosher certifications. Unsurprisingly (although I would never have thought of this before): a lot!

[Martin]

A very thorough, very well-researched and quite revelatory book. It answers long-standing questions of mine with aplomb, like what exactly chasisidha shchita is and why it's so popular (partial answer: they're pretty much the only ones that do it, of COURSE it'll be their standard!) and what mashgichim do on a daily basis (answer: a LOT). She also leaves almost no stone unturned, covering every major kashrus organization, every major product and every major scandal. Ironically, the one item I can think of that doesn't get mention is...Bodek! The chapter on Postville is devastating, and makes me curious to read "Postville, U.S.A." This book has also given me a more healthy respect for kashrus in general. I used to think that removal of a hechsher was probably political poppycock. I now know better, so when a hechsher is removed, I'll do what I can to find out why and refrain from partaking until I do so. Because of this writer, I have literally done teshuva. God bless her.

[Jennifer · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book starts out with great promise. It studies why the kosher food industry has become a multi billion dollar one, despite the fact that observant Jews who keep strictly kosher are just a small part of the market. There are some fascinating peeks into the processes, most fascinating is a "tour" of a Chinese factory where a large number of products used in food processing are made, despite the fact that being kosher is surely not important to those owning this factory.

The loss of a higher rating comes towards the end of this book when Fishkoff goes on the attack against Sholom Rubashkin. You'd think he was the most evil man on earth from her descriptions, something that 3 former US Attorney Generals deny. Without her tirade, this could have been a 5 store exploration of the kosher industry.

[J L's Bibliomania · Rating 3 out of 5]

Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority is fascinating but uneven. It reads more like a collection of essays than a cohesive whole. The chapters following individual Mashgiachim (Kosher inspectors), particularly the ones about grape harvesting and kosher supervision in China, were the highlight of the book. The chapters covering the history of Kashrut in America were rough to get through.

[Eve · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting read for anyone who wants to know more about the "kosher industry." For the most part, Fishkoff takes a hands-off journalistic approach, reporting on her subject rather than judging it, which I appreciated. There were a few places, though, where I know she got the details wrong, which makes me suspicious about other aspects of the book (although the overall picture is probably fairly accurate).

[Beth · Rating 4 out of 5]

Many parts were fascinating--I certainly learned a great deal, and found the glossary in the back extremely helpful. I agree with other assessments about the loose organization, but I am not sure there is a good way to tighten things up without strangling the flow and readability. I enjoyed the mix of facts, history, and personal anecdotes, ad would be interested in knowing more about how the trends she identified are playing out, since it has been almost five years since this was published.

[Haley Beth · Rating 3 out of 5]

It's true: good things come to those that wait. I put in my due diligence and was rewarded in the end. Fishkoff's last chapter is well worth muddling through the rest of the book. She provides interesting insight into the future of the Eco-Kosher food movement.I am impressed with the work that is being done on this frontier and am anxious to be a part of it.

[Michelle Schingler · Rating 5 out of 5]

My tour guide through my own kosher year. Humorous, well-researched, lively--and the author directed my eye (and palate) to some impressive kosher vintners, for which I'm grateful. Will be reading more from this author.

[Jennifer · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book was really fun, informative, great writing. NYPL Bernstein Award consideration.

[Courtney · Rating 4 out of 5]

It wasn't quite what I expected but still really good. I don't think someone who wasn't Jewish would find it as interesting.

[Barry Friedman · Rating 4 out of 5]

I know a lot about Kashrut, but I'm learning, in this book, about the business of Kashrut, which is quite interesting.

[Yael Cohen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this in 2 days over Pesach. It was a very well written easy read about the kosher food industry. I found the historical background particularly interesting.

[Elizabeth · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very enjoyable read so far. I like how it makes you think about the food in stores and the development of food cultures.

[That70sheidi · Rating 4 out of 5]

Just when I thought everything about Jews and Kosherocity had been covered, lo and behold, there's 6 more chapters! But it was interesting and I did learn quite a bit.

[Jennifer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting look at world of OU, Star-K, etc. and why eco/ethical kashrut may become even more important (hopefully).

[Sarah Sammis · Rating 3 out of 5]

http://www.pussreboots.pair.com/blog/...

[Judy · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author shared a lot of interesting facts but the organization or thematic structure escaped me. Unfortunately, it made the book a little tedious to read despite all of the well researched facts.

[Stan Cowan · Rating 5 out of 5]

A must read for those interested in another side of the food business.

[Gwen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent book - wished it were longer. Hydrox = the kosher alternatives for Oreos for years until Oreos were made kosher.

[Avi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ms. Fishkoff did a wonderful job presenting kashrut from all perspectives and opinions in a unbiased and informative manner.

[Qazwsx · Rating 4 out of 5]

I didn't realise Heinz was the first company to mass produce kosher foods back in 1923.

Plus the great Thin Mint incident of 2008? Good stuff. No one messes with the Girl Scouts!!!

[Foxglove · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sad book, made me doubt my faith.

[Suzanne · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was well-written and helped me understand the history of kashrut in America. Fishkoff also wrote The Rebbe's Army about Chabad in America.