Everest Alone at the Summit

by Stephen Venables

Every day, the path up the South Col route to the summit of Everest becomes a little more worn by the tread of dozens of package-tour climbers, but few dare to try the East, or Kangshung, Face, a sheer, avalanche-swept wall of snow and ice only first conquered in 1983. Five years later, Stephen Venables intensified the challenge by leading three unknown American climbers up the East Face - this time without oxygen. The question to most climbing experts wasn't whether they would summit, but whether they would live. They nearly didn't Alone at the Summit is Venables' rousing account of one of the greatest feats of twentieth century mountaineering, a triumph over doubt, the elements and the limits of human endurance that has never been repeated. "Climbers or not, all will be interested in this mountaineering thriller of a tiny band pulling off an incredible victory-an account so stirring it will be put down only to obtain a moment's breather." -- American Alpine Journal

Genres: Nonfiction, Adventure, Mountaineering, Travel, Climbing, Sports

288 pages, Paperback

First published August 15, 1996

Reviews

[Christine Rebbert · Rating 3 out of 5]

Every now and then, I gotta read a book about Mt. Everest. I don't know why I'm so fascinated by the idea of climbing it -- maybe I'm just amazed that some people have the will to do that, when most days I'm lucky I can gather the will to get out of bed in the morning.

In this expedition, the author and just 3 others make a previously-never-done assault of the rocky Kashung Face of Everest, and the author alone actually makes it to the summit, and without oxygen. Because he's basically out of his mind with hallucinations by the time he gets there, he gets disoriented starting down and winds up bivouacing above the 8,000 meter line, the "Death Zone". Unfortunately, this is not portrayed very dramatically in the book -- I guess because he's out of his mind with hallucinations and doesn't actually remember it much! Lucky he didn't just fall off the mountain...

Everest books are always a quick read for me; can't wait to see what happens next, even though I know he obviously survives, because he wrote this book. There are lots of good photos, and the descriptions are probably a little over-technical -- all the equipment etc. -- but it's what I expect from a book like this. I don't know my crampons from my carabiniers and descendeurs, but I know that's what they use.

When they get the escalator going up Everest, I'll be there...

[Lance · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone who could never attempt to climb a mountain, I am always fascinated with the adventures of those who attempt to reach the summit of the world’s highest peaks like Mt. Everest and K2. This book by Stephen Venables on his 1988 expedition on Everest when he became the first British climber to reach the peak without supplemental oxygen is no exception.

Something very remarkable about this climb was that a team of only 4 climbers made the attempt, and Venables was the only one to reach the summit. This didn’t diminish the accomplishments of the other three climbers as Venables expresses much kindness and praise for them throughout the book. Even with just one of them making it to the top, it’s clear that they worked well as a team. The porters and Sherpas who assisted in getting the supplies to Base Camp, as well as the team doctor and cooks also are given much thanks.

The book, while excellent overall, did feel like it was dragging when Venables was describing their travels into Nepal and finally getting to Base Camp. But once the actual climb started, the book was a gripping account of accomplishment, disappointment, near tragedy and ultimately relief at having survived the adventure. It was different to read that Venables wasn’t brimming with excitement at reaching the peak, but it was clear that his hypoxia was taking over and he knew that he had to start his descent soon.

The details of the climber’s struggles and the technical details while climbing are very good. While I never climbed I have read enough books on the sport that I understood most of it, but novices to mountain climbing, whether they do it or read about it, might find these parts too technical for their liking. Here is a passage to illustrate the details:

“It was a masterly performance. First, he took off his rucksack and left it on a ledge, clipped for safety into the rope. Now, without the weight of a sack, he could at least stay in balance for the first moves up a little ramp which leaned rightwards into the cliff. He moved confidently up this, placed an ice screw, climbed higher, then placed another ice screw, clipped in a footloop and used this to surmount an overhanging bulge. Then he moved back left, like some spidery crab spread-eagled on four clawed legs. The most impressive part was the speed and skill with which he placed protecting ice screws, whilst hanging so precariously from one ice hammer. He climbed diagonally left for about ten metres, then moved straight up.” (Venables writing about Ed Webster during a climb to another ledge).

This is just one passage of the several that made this book one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Highly recommended for those who climb or those who read many books on the sport like I do.

[Val Robson · Rating 3 out of 5]

I’ve read a lot of book by people who have climbed Everest but was interested in this one as it’s about an 1988 attempt on the Kangshung Face – Everest’s biggest wall which is approached from the east side in Tibet. This particular route had never been successfully climbed and the Kangshung Face itself had only been successfully climbed 5 years earlier.. It was also notable as it was a very small team of only four men, with Sherpas assisting in the portering to Base Camp and a couple on support at the higher camps but no summit climbing Sherpas. Of the team of four, Venables, the only Briton on the team, was the only person to summit. He did the climb without oxygen so it was a remarkable climb in climbing history for being the first up that first and the first Briton to the summit ever with oxygen.

There was rather too much technical jargon and details of the day to day climb in the book for me to be as gripped as I normally am in books on this topic. I’d rather concentrate on the people aspect of the climb than the crampons, ice axes, hammers, ice screws, ropes, etc. The book has excellent photos (mono and colour) and maps and diagrams. But I was still bored at times with minute details about the route as I find it hard to picture in my mind what is being described without photos of that specific location. Especially so since I have not read any other books about this route so I am not at all familiar with the various bits of it and their names.

The descent of the team was the most gripping part as the three who had summitted, or almost got there, were suffering badly from frost-bite and had to be helped back to safety. I would have liked more details about that and those who helped. Also about some of the local politics that seemed to be going on in Kharta which is the last accessible place by road before the trek to Base Camp and the climb. There seemed to be some nonsense going on with government officials but this was only hinted at.

But all in a all a good read with excellent photographs.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of my favorite mountaineering books of all time.

Stephen Venables’ ascent of the Kangshung face of Everest is an unbelievable accomplishment. As the sole climber of the team to reach the summit, he walked away with a lot of the plaudits, but the surhumain effort expanded by all four men merits recognition.

Climbing in alpine style with no supplemental oxygen on an unclimbed face on the tallest mountain in the world was and still is an incredibly bold undertaking fraught with danger.

The fact that the team pulled off the route, got a climber to the summit, and all made it back alive is akin to the miraculous.

Not only that but Mr. Venables’ prose is pleasant and well-paced. A must read for any mountaineer, armchair or no.

[Mr Jonathan Bowles · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great account of a gruelling expedition

Well written account of a very difficult new route up Everest's Kangshung face by a four man team close moving without oxygen. Steven Venables' engaging and fascinating story brings to life the trials and tribulations of high-profile mpuntaineering. The ascent was hard enough, but the descent turned into a hellish struggle which they were lucky to survive. A gripping account, which resulted in a sleepless night for me, as I couldn't put it down!

[Jen · Rating 2 out of 5]

Hmmm...you know I LOVE everest books. I only gave this one 2 stars because I found it to be a lot more dry and less interesting than the other Everest books I've read. On the other hand, if you are looking for something more technical this would be it. Less drama, more technique is how I'd describe this book. I wish the author had spent more time exploring his feelings in regards to leaving behind team members and less time making comments that seemed a bit like White Man's Destiny ish.

[Trent Mikesell · Rating 3 out of 5]

I just love these books about Everest. I found two more that I want to read. This one wasn't my favorite--there was far too many technical terms. You'd have to be a climber to understand some of what they were talking about (or he should have included a glossary or spent time defining). That said, the story was very interesting and it brought up the question of what you would trade in order to get to the top of Everest (toes, fingers, dignity?). Fast read.

[Alan Wu · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are many interesting books about Mt. Everest. Disappointingly, this book was not up to par with some of the others for several reasons. The first being the climbing terminology which was tough to understand given that I have no prior knowledge of climbing mountains. On the flip side, I was intrigued by the story and how they were able to survive the harsh weather conditions. This book will interest you if you have a love for climbing or reading about mountains.

[Ausy]

This book is a great adventure story that leaves you on your toes. Everest is a book about three companions that climb Everest's hardest face. Stephen Venables is the author and also one of the climbers, he has climbed mountains in the Himalayas, and Patagonia. Venables and his partners climbed Everest without oxygen and stayed above 8000m longer than expected. Venables was also the only caliber in his group to reach the top after a massive blizzard stopped the other two.

[Martha☀ · Rating 3 out of 5]

It's another great account of an Everest ascent and it is uplifting as no one in their expedition died. Venables is a bit long-winded at the beginning but shines through for his team's actual ascent and descent. If you are planning an Everest summit attempt, start on page 1; if not, start on pg 140!

[Rae · Rating 3 out of 5]

Took a while to get on to the mountain, but once they did the book got pretty interesting. I just don't understand the motivation to climb Everest, but I LOVE reading about all the various expeditions.

[Krista · Rating 2 out of 5]

Bit of a dry book...if you're not already familiar with mountaineering terms or the history of Everest expeditions, you might feel lost. I wouldn't recommend it for the casual reader, but if you're interested in climbing, it's an ok book.

[Derek Nguyen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I think this book was well written. The book compares Everest with other mountains and how it's one of the largest on the Earth. I would recommend reading this and enjoyed it very much.

[Christopher Archibald · Rating 5 out of 5]

My brother gave me a copy with a personalized inscription by the author. Even before I read it I knew it was going to need a special shelf in my home library.

[Claudia Thomas · Rating 2 out of 5]

first book I read about an Everest expedition - enjoyed the content, but he spent far toooo long talking about the history of previous expeditioners rather than this specific experience of his


certainly won’t be attempting to climb mt Everest in the near future

[Matt Chann · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars, very technical but still fascinating

[Payton · Rating 2 out of 5]

Title made me think all the others would die. Is it weird that I was disappointed that it was less dramatic than that?