The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives of the African Diaspora (Materializing Culture

by Carol Tulloch, Tulloch Carol

It is broadly recognized that black style had a clear and profound influence on the history of dress in the twentieth century, with black culture and fashion having long been defined as 'cool'. Yet despite this high profile, in-depth explorations of the culture and history of style and dress in the African diaspora are a relatively recent area of enquiry. The Birth of Cool asserts that 'cool' is seen as an arbiter of presence, and relates how both iconic and 'ordinary' black individuals and groups have marked out their lives through the styling of their bodies.

Focusing on counter- and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of black identity. From the gardenia corsage worn by Billie Holiday to the work-wear of female African-Jamaican market traders, through to the home-dressmaking of black Britons in the 1960s, and the meaning of a polo-neck jumper as depicted in a 1934 self-portrait by African-American artist Malvin Gray Johnson, this study looks at the ways in which the diaspora experience is expressed through self-image.

Spanning the late nineteenth century to the modern day, the book draws on ready-made and homemade fashion, photographs, paintings and films, published and unpublished biographies and letters from Britain, Jamaica, South Africa, and the United States to consider how personal style statements reflect issues of racial and cultural difference. The Birth of Cool is a powerful exploration of how style and dress both initiate and confirm change, and the ways in which they expresses identity and resistance in black culture.

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction

272 pages, Hardcover

First published February 3, 2008

Reviews

[Briana · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was inspired to read this thanks to the 2025 Met Gala "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style." While The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives of the African Diaspora by Carol Tulloch doesn't focus as much on Black Dandyism or tailoring, I appreciated the in-depth cultural study presented here. I'll be the first to admit that as a Black American, I can occasionally overlook the experiences of Black Brits and I know I shouldn't because they have a rich cultural history as well. I appreciated the chapter on Black Brits post-World War II and the way they've been able to forge their own unique style. Additionally, I loved the chapters on the Harlem Renaissance, Billie Holiday as a Black female Dandy, and Malcolm X. Black style is political and the way we dress is often directly parallel to what's happening to our people socially and politically. This book accurately encapsulates that. Much like Slaves to Fashion by Monica L. Miller, this book is highly academic but it was a little more difficult to get through at times due to the Tulloch's tone of voice.

[Orly Doubinsky · Rating 5 out of 5]

An absolutely wonderful and fascinating book for anyone who is interested in fashion-arts-culture history! Beautifully written and I loved how the author is able to connect the information and style narratives in the book to her own personal experience and life! Thank you!