No one could have imagined this exile for Lucie Austin in 1821, for Lucie Duff Gordon in 1840. But human beings, like all living things, shed chrysalises, moult, slough off old skins, metamorphose, discard and assume names, rise from heaps of cold ashes. There was no way, however, that Lucie could foresee in the summer of 1861 that her banishment would not just be healing, but transforming. South Africa would be the bridge to a different kind of wholeness, the route to another identity. When Lucie left Esher in late July, George Meredith said that 'a light had gone out'. But at her final destination in Egypt she would acquire a new name, Noor ala Noor, which means 'light from the source of all light'.
One of the most lovely and well written biographies I have ever read. I fell in love with Egypt, and I am heartbroken at the rift now between the Muslim world and the Western world that makes it likely I will never see what Lucie saw. She was so beloved there and found such beauty and joy there despite being essentially exiled to the dry climate for TB so she could live as long as possible. My grandmother died of TB decades later, and I couldn’t help but wonder if this was a possibility at all, to relocate to a drier climate like Arizona, was it ever suggested? She was pregnant with my uncle and refused the medications that could harm him, so it advanced during pregnancy and she died not long after his birth. They didn’t have a lot of money, but I wonder if there was a onetime conversation lost in the mist of time. It is an alternate history that shadowed my reading of this, a story of health and letters home and visits, and less deep agony in my mother. What a gift this author has given us to reintroduce Lucie and her Egypt to the world.
Alexander clearly had misgivings about the proposed trip for Lucie wrote to Sarah in late July, 'Alexander seems to doubt whether he will come, and to fear that Mossey will be bored. Was I different to other children and young people, or has the race changed? When I was that age I should have thought anyone mad who talked of a Nile voyage as possibly a bore, and would have embarked in a washing tub ... with rapture. All romance and all curiosity too seems dead and gone. Even old and sick and not very happily placed, I still cannot understand the idea of not being amused and interested. Janet says she thinks her father very unwell ... Of course, I fancy the voyage must do him good, but "one man's meat is another's poison"! and the dread of ennui is really an illness in itself to Alexander and to Janet.'
Nothing seemed to have changed in the past 500, 1,000, 6,000 years. There was the life-giving river, its banks lined with papyrus and reeds and the bullrushes where Moses had been secreted. Just beyond the river banks lay intensely green fields of beans, clover, maize and sugar-cane. In the distance, farmers followed the tracks of their ploughs; closer at hand, stolid brown oxen trudged round and round, turning the wheels which carried the Nile's water to the fields. Tall, barefoot women in black walked to the river banks, with huge clay water-jars gracefully balanced on their heads. Broad-winged egrets - so large that they looked like children's parchment kites - swooped and flew off, or stood poised, absolutely still, like birds on a Chinese screen, amidst the water reeds on the river's edge.
All this Lucie saw .* And her heart expanded within her. As the days passed, and Cairo and - more distant still – Europe were left further and further behind, it seemed as if the Zint el-Bachreyn was travelling into a heart of light and heat and life. All so familiar yet so fantastic. 'It is all a dream to me,' Lucie wrote to her mother. 'You can't think what an odd effect it is to take up an English book and read it and then to look up and hear the men cry - Yah Mohammed. "Bless thee Bottom, how art thou translated!" [sic] It is the reverse of all one's former life when one sat in England and read of the East ... [I am] in the real, true Arabian Nights, and don't know whether "I be I as I suppose I be" or not.'
Since I last wrote we got into the Southwest monsoon for one day, and I sat up by the steersman in intense enjoyment. A bright sun and glittering blue sea; and we tore along, pitching and tossing the water up like mad. It was glorious.
Oh, such a journey here! Such country! Pearly mountains and deep blue sky, and an impassable pass to walk down, and baboons and secretary birds, and tortoises. I couldn't sleep for it all last night, tired as I was with the unutterably bad road.
To those who think voyages and travels tiresome, my delight in the new birds and beasts and people must seem very stupid. I can't help it if it does, and am not ashamed to confess that I feel the old sort of enchanted wonder with which I used to read Cook's Voyages, and the like, as a child. It is very coarse and unintellectual of me; but I would rather see this now, at my age, than Italy; the fresh, new, beautiful nature is a second youth - or childhood - si vous voulez. The only drawback is the thought of you, dull and worried at home. I do wish you were here to try a day of this wild travelling. I really think it would amuse you. Tomorrow we shall cross the highest pass I have yet crossed, and sleep at Paarl - then Stellenbosch, then Cape Town. For anyone out of health and in pocket, I should certainly prescribe South Africa.