Jäine raamat is a book by Estonian (and Soviet, which characterizes the style and ideology) writer Juhan Smuul. It is a travel journal, recording Smuul’s journey to Soviet Antarctic station Mirny, a month he spent there and the biggest part of his way back home. It was published in 1959, next year after its author came back home from the Ice Continent. I read it in Russian translation, made by Leon Toom in 1959.
From what I have found on Russian book forums and learned from my parents, Jäine raamat is an outstanding travel book not only in Estonian but in Soviet literature. It earned Lenin prize in 1961, translation was republished several times in the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s; I discovered that in one of his interviews Dmitry Bykov, famous Russian writer and a popular lecturer, advises Smuul’s book as an example of “fascinating and moderately heroic” soviet book. And I can see, why it was praised. First, Soviet people did not have many sources of information about other countries, which makes Smuul’s depictions of foreign cities a window outside. Second, the book contains first-hand observations of the 3d Soviet Antarctic Expedition. Positive observations, importantly, ones that can enhance the patriotic feelings of citizens. However, there are things in the book that were not safe to write in 1957 in USSR, and the acknowledgment from the officials can be considered both luck and a result of Smuul’s caution.
Smuul reflects on soviet ideology and lifestyle a lot, but it is not inserted just for pleasing censors or editors. From Smuul’s biography, one can tell that at least at a time of writing this book he was an actual communist, and he believed in this ideology. But as an intellectual and an honest man, he is here and there critical about it – for example, he notices that soviet art, paintings, in particular, is sometimes dull and puts form above the feeling and thought if compared with some western abstract art. It is especially interesting if the reader knows about the Manege Affair of 1962, just 3 years after the publication: Khrushchev attended art exhibition which included avant-garde art and did not understand it at all, becoming enraged. This eventually led to the Party taking more control over the arts. This shows that writing about such issues was not safe for Smuul. The irony of Soviet censorship and even repression policy is that being a too inspired communist can be as dangerous as being a dissident.
The journal starts on 30th of October 1957 in Kaliningrad and ends on 17th of April 1958 after Smuul transfers from the ship by which he traveled to Antarctica and then from there to Alexandria – “Kooperatsia” – to the ship that will bring him back home through Beirut, Piraeus, Athens, Istanbul, and Odessa. Entries cover almost every day, with rare exceptions. I was surprised, that Smuul leaves all these cities out of the book, as he was very excited about Cape Town, Adelaide, Alexandria, and Cairo, describing them carefully and with enthusiasm. Maybe he was too tired and homesick at this point, maybe wanted to keep Antarctica in focus, as its description takes only about a third or a quarter of the book as it is. I hoped, however, to read about Smuul’s emotions when he is back in Estonia. Besides illustrating the beginning of the expedition and colorfully depicting foreign cities and sea landscape, Smuul, stimulated by the dullness of routine on a ship, reasons about the arts, his life, and his youth. He misses his home, often mentions Estonian nature, towns, and village where he grew up. His starting point for ocean descriptions is the Baltic sea.
“Every time I am on the deck, a dark azure of the ocean strikes me. It is so smooth and clean as if it was invented by poets. For us, children of the gray sea, this is like a fairy tale”. Nature plays a big role to him, he considers himself a son of Estonia in every sense. “Those who grow up among junipers, hazels, and boulders sooner or later switch to the prose”. This journal is an example of the way how we realize what is our home and what it means for us only when we are on a road. Smuul writes about it on the 22nd of December extensively.
The topic of homeland is also touched in entries from Adelaide, Australia. A large part of the city’s population consists of immigrants, including Russians and Estonians. Smuul does another dangerous thing here – despite being sure that these people are wrong in their spite towards USSR, he describes the majority of them with sympathy, considering the difficulty of the situation that made them flee. Seeing people without a homeland (as their home, independent Estonia, no longer exists; it is not mentioned directly, but I feel this is the biggest part of their tragedy) makes Smuul sad. The outstanding character is the man who left Estonia many years ago with his family and now desperately wants to go back and die on his land.
Ironically, for me the description of Antarctica was not the most interesting thing in the book about the Antarctic expedition. In comparison to Amundsen’s or Peary’s expeditions, the 3d Soviet Antarctic expedition was far more well organized, used technology and, as the name implies, was continuing what was already established by the first two expeditions, and new stations were easier to build. The history of this expedition is much less dark than those of pioneers. The only death described in Jäine raamat is due to the gas accident. I expected more adventures and danger from it, to be honest. Book turned out to be much more poetic and philosophical.
The world Smuul lives in, the world he presents to the reader, maybe never existed. It resembles me the world in early works of Strugatsky Brothers, before they become disappointed in regimen – the world of simple people, honest, brave, living for their work. I do not believe it now, but it still feels comforting to read about it.