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法國美食傳奇
古典法國美食傳奇
第一本用「油」解構法國美食
比波登還要早的美食冒險家
法國的「美食冒險」需要有人帶領、需要哲學家和才華橫溢的美食家嚮導，食客才能了解在旅途中等待他的高貴菜餚的珍稀之處。這正是作者韋弗利．魯特（Waverley Root）在這本緊湊又豐富的法國美食寶典中要彰顯的重點。
魯特在撰稿期間跋涉千里奔波享用數不清的歡宴美食，自不在話下。要編纂如本書這樣完整又富有研究價值的一部著作，大約得消耗三十年光景，作者撫今追昔也恰好從回到1927年開始。他長年擔任必須出差頻頻的新聞通訊記者工作，或許就這樣催生了這本發人深省的副產品。他諳熟法國，徹底而全面且深情款款，不僅瞭解法國的烹飪之道，也熟悉其歷史與地理。因此，認真專注的本書讀者，將能領受到他的美食探險之旅背後蘊含的豐富資訊。本書無疑是閱讀法國美好事物及了解它們如何生成的入門書。
本書以做菜用的「油」來區分法國各地美食特性。因為各地風土條件不同，莊稼、家禽野味家畜都會因此不同，山區有牧草處若平緩寬廣就養乳牛和肉牛，若窄小就只能養羊、豬、鵝等，靠地中海的地區才有橄欖樹，有橄欖油（這一點和義大利相仿，北義大利菜就使用奶油不用橄欖油）。所以了解烹飪用油就能對法國美食有基礎概念。
窮鄉僻壤處（不論山區平地）只能養豬加鵝，這兩種動物生長快、肥油多。山區有乳牛、乳羊也不會使用鮮奶，因為古代不易保存也不利運輸，都做成乳酪。
地中海海鮮不同於大西洋岸的，應該有不同的烹調方式。而且法國人認為甲殼類是大西洋岸的好，所以靠地中海沿岸的地區海龍王湯（類似馬賽魚湯作法）不放甲殼類。唯有巴黎因為是大都會，會打破這些規矩。
作者深入法國各地，見多識廣（也愛吃），所以寫得非常詳細，每個地區有趣的歷史、人物等等也都回提到，菜餚的起源、演變、正宗做法更是很精采。光是海龍王湯就介紹了很多地方的版本，提及配料、調味，非常好看而且實用性高。堪稱很好看又豐富的法國美食百科。
鄉野的每個迴廊裡各長著適得其所的菜。土地不斷生成食物，而食物始終與該地的地理、氣候、歷史、居民、文化緊密交織，簡單說，就是與整個環境難分難捨。同樣名稱的食物在不同地方，口味可能形形色色大不相同。風土條件對食物的這種影響，比產地與廚房之間的親屬關係更妙不可言──為地理與飲饌之間的「生態關係」。
為什麼貧窮的國家都種馬鈴薯、蕪菁，養豬、山羊和鵝？為什麼英國人沉迷於豐盛的早餐？為什麼法國人比鄰國更擅長使用他們的兩款基本食用油──奶油和植物油？翻翻本書前幾頁就能找到答案。
「這是一部傳世之作，可堪流芳數十載。這是首部以英文書寫這樣一個令人著迷又心動的主題，現在與未來的美食家與旅者都將因這部權威巨著大感歡欣鼓舞。」――張伯倫（Samuel Chamberlain，1896-1975美食專欄作家）
【內容介紹】
大自然不僅決定了任何地區的飲食內容，也往往決定了要從各式各樣的可能性當中做哪些選擇，以及食物如何烹調。
本書為頌祝法國美食和文化的讚歌，作者韋弗利‧魯特 為一位美食冒險家，他在安東尼．波登出現的幾十年前就已經留下了自己的精微洞見，結合歷史、考證與親身經歷下，塑造當代美國人對法國、義大利烹飪的概念。
作者在法國的各個省市和偏遠鄉村旅行時，不僅親炙了諾曼第的蘋果白蘭地和卡門貝爾乳酪，巴黎的高級美食，以及豐盛的海龍王湯（Bouillabaisse），還發現了塑造法國民族特徵的當地歷史、風俗和地理位置；敘述金雀花王朝的國王和作家拉伯雷最喜歡的松露香腸的起源，告訴讀者凡爾賽宮的廚房如何在一天內為一千名貴族和四千名僕人烹飪，也記錄了一年中收穫蝸牛的最佳時節，在肥鵝遍地的庇里牛斯山脈地區，摩爾人如何影響這裡的甜點；還有普羅旺斯最古老的橄欖樹的年齡。
這本書寫給廚師、旅行家以及鑒賞精美飲食散文的行家。
第一本用「油」解構法國美食
比波登還要早的美食冒險家
法國的「美食冒險」需要有人帶領、需要哲學家和才華橫溢的美食家嚮導，食客才能了解在旅途中等待他的高貴菜餚的珍稀之處。這正是作者韋弗利．魯特（Waverley Root）在這本緊湊又豐富的法國美食寶典中要彰顯的重點。
魯特在撰稿期間跋涉千里奔波享用數不清的歡宴美食，自不在話下。要編纂如本書這樣完整又富有研究價值的一部著作，大約得消耗三十年光景，作者撫今追昔也恰好從回到1927年開始。他長年擔任必須出差頻頻的新聞通訊記者工作，或許就這樣催生了這本發人深省的副產品。他諳熟法國，徹底而全面且深情款款，不僅瞭解法國的烹飪之道，也熟悉其歷史與地理。因此，認真專注的本書讀者，將能領受到他的美食探險之旅背後蘊含的豐富資訊。本書無疑是閱讀法國美好事物及了解它們如何生成的入門書。
本書以做菜用的「油」來區分法國各地美食特性。因為各地風土條件不同，莊稼、家禽野味家畜都會因此不同，山區有牧草處若平緩寬廣就養乳牛和肉牛，若窄小就只能養羊、豬、鵝等，靠地中海的地區才有橄欖樹，有橄欖油（這一點和義大利相仿，北義大利菜就使用奶油不用橄欖油）。所以了解烹飪用油就能對法國美食有基礎概念。
窮鄉僻壤處（不論山區平地）只能養豬加鵝，這兩種動物生長快、肥油多。山區有乳牛、乳羊也不會使用鮮奶，因為古代不易保存也不利運輸，都做成乳酪。
地中海海鮮不同於大西洋岸的，應該有不同的烹調方式。而且法國人認為甲殼類是大西洋岸的好，所以靠地中海沿岸的地區海龍王湯（類似馬賽魚湯作法）不放甲殼類。唯有巴黎因為是大都會，會打破這些規矩。
作者深入法國各地，見多識廣（也愛吃），所以寫得非常詳細，每個地區有趣的歷史、人物等等也都回提到，菜餚的起源、演變、正宗做法更是很精采。光是海龍王湯就介紹了很多地方的版本，提及配料、調味，非常好看而且實用性高。堪稱很好看又豐富的法國美食百科。
鄉野的每個迴廊裡各長著適得其所的菜。土地不斷生成食物，而食物始終與該地的地理、氣候、歷史、居民、文化緊密交織，簡單說，就是與整個環境難分難捨。同樣名稱的食物在不同地方，口味可能形形色色大不相同。風土條件對食物的這種影響，比產地與廚房之間的親屬關係更妙不可言──為地理與飲饌之間的「生態關係」。
為什麼貧窮的國家都種馬鈴薯、蕪菁，養豬、山羊和鵝？為什麼英國人沉迷於豐盛的早餐？為什麼法國人比鄰國更擅長使用他們的兩款基本食用油──奶油和植物油？翻翻本書前幾頁就能找到答案。
「這是一部傳世之作，可堪流芳數十載。這是首部以英文書寫這樣一個令人著迷又心動的主題，現在與未來的美食家與旅者都將因這部權威巨著大感歡欣鼓舞。」――張伯倫（Samuel Chamberlain，1896-1975美食專欄作家）
【內容介紹】
大自然不僅決定了任何地區的飲食內容，也往往決定了要從各式各樣的可能性當中做哪些選擇，以及食物如何烹調。
本書為頌祝法國美食和文化的讚歌，作者韋弗利‧魯特 為一位美食冒險家，他在安東尼．波登出現的幾十年前就已經留下了自己的精微洞見，結合歷史、考證與親身經歷下，塑造當代美國人對法國、義大利烹飪的概念。
作者在法國的各個省市和偏遠鄉村旅行時，不僅親炙了諾曼第的蘋果白蘭地和卡門貝爾乳酪，巴黎的高級美食，以及豐盛的海龍王湯（Bouillabaisse），還發現了塑造法國民族特徵的當地歷史、風俗和地理位置；敘述金雀花王朝的國王和作家拉伯雷最喜歡的松露香腸的起源，告訴讀者凡爾賽宮的廚房如何在一天內為一千名貴族和四千名僕人烹飪，也記錄了一年中收穫蝸牛的最佳時節，在肥鵝遍地的庇里牛斯山脈地區，摩爾人如何影響這裡的甜點；還有普羅旺斯最古老的橄欖樹的年齡。
這本書寫給廚師、旅行家以及鑒賞精美飲食散文的行家。
364 pages, Hardcover
First published December 1, 1958
20 people are currently reading
353 people want to read
About the author
Waverley Root
35 books5 followersWaverley Lewis Root (April 15, 1903, in Providence, Rhode Island – October 31, 1982 in Paris) was an American journalist and writer. Root authored the classic The Food of Italy on Italy and its regional cuisines.
Root was a news correspondent for over 30 years; in 1969 he retired from daily journalism. He was the Paris correspondent for the Chicago Tribune and then The Washington Post. He was also a columnist for the International Herald Tribune.
His books and writings focused on food, and yet mingled culinary details of the regions he wrote about with historic facts, and literary references. [wikipedia]
Root was a news correspondent for over 30 years; in 1969 he retired from daily journalism. He was the Paris correspondent for the Chicago Tribune and then The Washington Post. He was also a columnist for the International Herald Tribune.
His books and writings focused on food, and yet mingled culinary details of the regions he wrote about with historic facts, and literary references. [wikipedia]
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Displaying 1 - 17 of 17 reviews
October 21, 2016
21 October 2016: I just finished reading
La vie et la passion de Dodin-Bouffant
and the experience reminded me of how much I enjoyed Waverley Root's book.
Original Review
Mr Root's overarching theory is that French food can be divided into the three culinary domains of fat, butter and oil. The Food of France reflects this belief and is similarly divided into three main sections, each chapter within a section dealing with the geographical/culinary regions within each domain. Within this structure, each chapter explores the food of a specific culinary region, and highlights the dishes distinct to that region.
Underpinning Mr Root's overarching theory is the premise that food and how it is cooked is intimately related to and is influenced by the geography, history, and culture (agri- and otherwise) of its region. As a result, each region develops a food and cooking style unique to itself. He proceeds to illustrate this with erudition, verve, wit and style. Drawing on his knowledge of French geography, history, and culture, as well as what seems to be his vast gastronomic experiences across France, he makes a fine case for how each have been an ingredient in shaping and influencing the development of the food of each region. The Food of France will not only tell you what goes into an omelette provencale, it will tell you why this is different from an omelette à la nomande or an omelette à la nicoise, as well as consider different theories as to how the omelette got its name.
The book comes with a general index, as well as an index of food and dishes. Dishes are described with sufficient particularity that a good cook could reproduce the dish. I should note that as the book was written in 1958, some of his information is a little outdated (his recommendations for good years of wine) or a little late (his urgings to visit Provence before it becomes too touristy). Notwithstanding this, The Food of France is an excellent resource and wonderful read: perhaps there can be no better recommendation than to admit that I enjoyed it so much that I have gone to buy The Food of Italy, also written by Mr Root.
Original Review
Mr Root's overarching theory is that French food can be divided into the three culinary domains of fat, butter and oil. The Food of France reflects this belief and is similarly divided into three main sections, each chapter within a section dealing with the geographical/culinary regions within each domain. Within this structure, each chapter explores the food of a specific culinary region, and highlights the dishes distinct to that region.
Underpinning Mr Root's overarching theory is the premise that food and how it is cooked is intimately related to and is influenced by the geography, history, and culture (agri- and otherwise) of its region. As a result, each region develops a food and cooking style unique to itself. He proceeds to illustrate this with erudition, verve, wit and style. Drawing on his knowledge of French geography, history, and culture, as well as what seems to be his vast gastronomic experiences across France, he makes a fine case for how each have been an ingredient in shaping and influencing the development of the food of each region. The Food of France will not only tell you what goes into an omelette provencale, it will tell you why this is different from an omelette à la nomande or an omelette à la nicoise, as well as consider different theories as to how the omelette got its name.
The book comes with a general index, as well as an index of food and dishes. Dishes are described with sufficient particularity that a good cook could reproduce the dish. I should note that as the book was written in 1958, some of his information is a little outdated (his recommendations for good years of wine) or a little late (his urgings to visit Provence before it becomes too touristy). Notwithstanding this, The Food of France is an excellent resource and wonderful read: perhaps there can be no better recommendation than to admit that I enjoyed it so much that I have gone to buy The Food of Italy, also written by Mr Root.
Read
March 18, 2020I do not know how to rate this, as reading it is unlike any other reading I do. It provides a very good overview of how French cuisine is organized, some specifics to ground the idea of terroir in practices, and some narrative of his own experiences eating and drinking around the country.
In places, it goes back to ancient Greece, and in other places it's current up to the 1950s. It's didactic, sometimes over-explained, and not arranged for narrativity or pleasure reading per se. Yet, I'm glad to have read it. If nothing else, I will have a much better idea what foods on the menus are actually local and which are aiming to meet tourist expectations. Also, I know a lot more varieties of light, white French wines, which is never to the bad.
In places, it goes back to ancient Greece, and in other places it's current up to the 1950s. It's didactic, sometimes over-explained, and not arranged for narrativity or pleasure reading per se. Yet, I'm glad to have read it. If nothing else, I will have a much better idea what foods on the menus are actually local and which are aiming to meet tourist expectations. Also, I know a lot more varieties of light, white French wines, which is never to the bad.
August 15, 2022
Fantastic book for my research needs. Root strikes a conversational tone as he explores France region by region, beginning each chapter with a brief historical and geographical overview before getting to the juicy part, the food. The book is certainly dated--the most recent wine recommendation that I recall was for 1961--but that was fine by me, as I primary wanted information in relation to the 16th and 17th centuries. I will be referencing this book often in the coming months!
April 15, 2012
Truely beautiful... Gruff in nature, the author brings to me the France I live in. That another American could find the true nature of France , brings me joy.
December 22, 2024
The book is a mix between history, food and culture spanning every region of France. It has colourful descriptions and an entertaining tone.
Its main drawback, and sadly a big one, is that it is very poorly structured. Almost randomly there is an 11.5 page treatise in bouillabaisse starting and finishing without signpost.
Its main drawback, and sadly a big one, is that it is very poorly structured. Almost randomly there is an 11.5 page treatise in bouillabaisse starting and finishing without signpost.
July 3, 2018
This was my father's favorite book. It's an entertaining, opinionated tour of the France filtered through food and food traditions of each region (the regions being defined by cuisine, not politics). While Root had some very odd opinions (he didn't like Champagne and didn't think it paired well with any food !!!????!!!!, whereas he liked the revolting, horrid-smelling sausage andouiette, which is made with tripe, among other things), his writing about and love of the food and wine of France is contagious.
Based on my own experiences in France, some things have altered radically since 1958, when this was published, and some have not.
I read the first edition (my father's copy), which has really wonderful pen-and-ink illustrations, as well as b&w photos by Paul Child - Paul Child who was Julia's husband. Small world.
Based on my own experiences in France, some things have altered radically since 1958, when this was published, and some have not.
I read the first edition (my father's copy), which has really wonderful pen-and-ink illustrations, as well as b&w photos by Paul Child - Paul Child who was Julia's husband. Small world.
August 22, 2020
I suppose I would have enjoyed this book more if I’d known more about French geography, culture, and language. Waverley was a man who did his research by nature and must have taken copious notes because it seems nothing has been left out of this accumulation of his knowledge and experiences. By the end, it had all rolled up into one big ‘glom’ of information. I don’t think I retained much but I appreciated the little vignettes that Waverley served his readers.
August 3, 2019
Its a very thorough book about the food of France, but I wonder if its still the same after all these years. It is definitely informative about the regions of France and what type of foods they use to eat and enjoy. It also describes the geography and weather and how that effects the regions and what they grow and raise for food.
June 29, 2023
If you love good food, good writing, and France, then Waverly Root's "The Food of France" belongs on your travel reference shelf. Root is a food writer par excellence and evocatively describes the cuisine of each province, explaining how geography, history, and terroir shape culinary delights. Do not be put off by its 1958 publication date; while France has a tumultuous history, its land has stayed the same. The land and sea still produce the same food today as it has for centuries, and many of the restaurants he mentions, like Bordeaux's Le Chapon Fin, are still seating eager diners. While French cuisine has been described as pretentious (this may be a more apt description of the eater than the food), Root brings it to earth as in his comparison of the Breton pancake to the crêpe Suzette "as a gnarled and weatherbeaten farmer with an elegant parisienne" (142). His chapter on Provence is a master-class of travel writing with two pages of probably the best description of olive trees: "At night a grove of olive trees looks like the phantom of a forest. In moonlight or even starlight the leaves are of a spectral ashen hue. The boughs, low, widespread and gnarled, twist and turn in grotesque tortured shapes. The grove is eerie and ghostlike, wearing a macabre beauty' (326). Be still my heart.
This is not a book that needs to be read end to end, but can be dipped into as one learns more about France and decides where to go and what to eat (and that answer is everything, requiring frequent visits). Reading this book also feels like time travel-- back to a time when people like Root, MFK Fisher, and AJ Liebling were the "influencers" of the moment. Each wrote books conveying a sense of place, ideas, and life. Root wants his readers to understand the regions they are in, so when they are wherever they are, be it a farmers' market, boulangerie, or restaurant, they can appreciate the daily selection, its history, and how it got from the source to their table. It is the antithesis of today's Instagram influencer culture which ruins nice things. (Today there seems to be a permanent long line to get into Shakespeare and Company. A few years ago I was able to just walk in and buy my books; now I can't. Do these people even know anything-- or care-- about its history or are they just there because of social media FOMO?)
If you are interested in serious travel for a sense of place over likes, then this is the book for you. Highly recommend it!
This is not a book that needs to be read end to end, but can be dipped into as one learns more about France and decides where to go and what to eat (and that answer is everything, requiring frequent visits). Reading this book also feels like time travel-- back to a time when people like Root, MFK Fisher, and AJ Liebling were the "influencers" of the moment. Each wrote books conveying a sense of place, ideas, and life. Root wants his readers to understand the regions they are in, so when they are wherever they are, be it a farmers' market, boulangerie, or restaurant, they can appreciate the daily selection, its history, and how it got from the source to their table. It is the antithesis of today's Instagram influencer culture which ruins nice things. (Today there seems to be a permanent long line to get into Shakespeare and Company. A few years ago I was able to just walk in and buy my books; now I can't. Do these people even know anything-- or care-- about its history or are they just there because of social media FOMO?)
If you are interested in serious travel for a sense of place over likes, then this is the book for you. Highly recommend it!
February 27, 2025
While perhaps not as useful today as it was originally written (most of the vintage years are impossible to find and many of the trends seem no longer applicable), this is nonetheless an incredibly fun read. The historical and cultural insights are informative and interesting, the descriptions of the food preparations are as plentiful and sophisticated as the dishes themselves, and more importantly than all: the wit of this book is just amusing.
An example, on bouillabaisse:
"Everyone has his own idea of what constitutes a real bouillabaisse, to which all others are imitations, and if a contrary opinion is suggested, he acts as if his honor has been impugned... The easiest, and least subtle, way to provoke a discussion to end a lifelong friendship is to bring up the issue of lobster. One [school of thought] is that a man who would put lobster in bouillabaisse would poison wells. The other is that a man who would leave it out would starve his children. I have had excellent bouillabaisse with lobster and excellent bouillabaisse without lobster. Of course only one of them is a real bouillabaisse. Unfortunately, I do not know which."
When I read it to my girlfriend, she mentioned that the humor and wit sounded like something G. K. Chesterton would have written, an assessment I can't help but agree with.
An example, on bouillabaisse:
"Everyone has his own idea of what constitutes a real bouillabaisse, to which all others are imitations, and if a contrary opinion is suggested, he acts as if his honor has been impugned... The easiest, and least subtle, way to provoke a discussion to end a lifelong friendship is to bring up the issue of lobster. One [school of thought] is that a man who would put lobster in bouillabaisse would poison wells. The other is that a man who would leave it out would starve his children. I have had excellent bouillabaisse with lobster and excellent bouillabaisse without lobster. Of course only one of them is a real bouillabaisse. Unfortunately, I do not know which."
When I read it to my girlfriend, she mentioned that the humor and wit sounded like something G. K. Chesterton would have written, an assessment I can't help but agree with.
September 1, 2024
Written in the late 50s a lot has changed in French cuisine. However, a lot of the dishes are still around today. I loved how Root split the regions of France up by the various fats they use to cook which show regional similarities and the historical origins of many iconic French dishes. Having said that, this was a bit of a slog with too much history and royal history at that! I would imagine people picking up this book would be in it for the food, but would like to be spared the deep dive into history. Of course, some history is needed for context, but the book becomes very wordy. Now, is that the style of writing back in the 50s...maybe so., but I think an editor in present day would cut a lot of crap out of the book. Overall, it's worth the read.
March 8, 2021
Gastronomy book club via my chef husband. Hubby recommended this book to me. I figured I would read it to bond with him over delicious French food & wine history. It worked!! Helps to have a French trained chef in the house while reading this book. My stomach thanks him. The Food of France is brilliantly sectioned into how the food of France is cooked. So the regions are split up by butter, lard & oil. Makes understanding French food process so much easier. The lore in this book is top notch. I wish I had this book when I was studying for my Master Sommeiler Exam. This book would have tied everything together for me. I love how this book goes into everything you can possibly eat or drink from France: Cheese, sausages, wine, spirits, oysters, fresh water cray fish, crazy stews, weird unknown fish it goes on and on. A must read for all gastronomes.
November 29, 2010
I read only about the first 3rd of this book......it is so dense with wonderful information, and can't really be read straight through, cover to cover, but used as a reference of French culinary history. It was written in the late 50's, so is not a current where-to-go what-to-eat in France, but well worth reading to gain a fundamental understanding of French cuisine.
I'll buy this book, and happily read a chapter here and there for years.
November 28, 2015
This book has a little bit of everything. History (both natural and human), geography, sociology, recipes, adamant opinions, and lovely descriptions of landscapes. I mostly let the details wash over me, and I don't think I really learned a lot. But if ever I get the chance to travel the French countryside, this book will have been my inspiration for doing so, and I will want a copy with me.
Grasse sounds right for me: land of lavender, perfume, and candied flowers. Sign me up.
Grasse sounds right for me: land of lavender, perfume, and candied flowers. Sign me up.
February 21, 2020
Wonderful read even after so many years. I love how Root, even though he's American, doesn't come across as Mr know-it-all who wants to tell the French how to cook (I guess that's a more recent thing in "food literature")
March 15, 2024
I've set this book down for a minute. But again, an extrememly comprehensive history of french cuisine.
December 9, 2015
A brilliant travelogue through the lens of food and farming and food production that clearly no longer exists. Brilliant and entertaining writing.
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