Escape from Lucania: An Epic Story of Survival

by David Roberts

In 1937, Mount Lucania was the highest unclimbed peak in North America. Located deep within the Saint Elias mountain range, which straddles the border of Alaska and the Yukon, and surrounded by glacial peaks, Lucania was all but inaccessible. The leader of one failed expedition deemed it "impregnable." But in that year, a pair of daring young climbers would attempt a first ascent, not knowing that their quest would turn into a perilous struggle for survival. Escape from Lucania is their remarkable story.

Genres: Mountaineering, Adventure, Nonfiction, Climbing, Survival, History, Travel

224 pages, Hardcover

First published October 9, 2002

About the author

Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the GoodReads database with this name.
See this thread for more information.

David Roberts is the award-winning author of twenty-nine books about mountaineering, exploration, and anthropology. His most recent publication, Alone on the Wall, was written with world-class rock climber Alex Honnold, whose historic feats were featured in the film Free Solo.

Reviews

[Cameron · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book takes place in the early 1900's. Two men who go way back tell their story, of when they nearly died on Mt. Lucania. Mt. Lucania is up in Canada. Both men had been on mountain expeditions in collage (Harvard), but Lucania was a whole knew game. Over all Escape from Lucania was a great book.

Escape From Lucania was a exiting book about about two men stuck on a mountain. Bob Bates and Brad Washburn have been friends since collage, and have been on mountain climbing expeditions before... however they have never experienced anything like their stay on Lucania. Bob and Brad put together a four man team to climb Lucaina. Their pilot Reeve can only take two at a time in his plane, because, (this book was in the early 1900's so planes were not very common.) After Reeve's plane gets stuck due to low temperatures melting the snow he's not able to take off to get the other two. Once he finally escapes he says he's not coming back because he doesn't want to get stuck again so the two men are stranded over a 100 miles from society.

I recommend this book to anyone who likes books about perils journeys or suspenseful plot line. The reason I liked it was it seemed very well written (good use of vocabulary, very descriptive. This book my be quite a difficult read. Many times I found my self re-reading entire pages, because it was very confusing. All in all I recommend this book to anyone who is willing to spend some time on it because, even though its a hard read I thought it was worth it.

[Corbin Hillam · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great adventure!

[Gemma Hosford · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book!

[Barbara Carder · Rating 5 out of 5]

Deft writing on the part of Roberts to describe the two mountaineers who ventured into the Alaska/Canada St Elias ... Lucania territory with the bare minimum of gear. Reminds me of 'Running the Amazon' by Joe Kane - a lot about the personalities of the adventurers. They survived. . . . Burwash Landing on Kluane Lake. Loved this book ~ gave it to a climber to read.

[Ann Grant · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved this book, but all adventure novels in my mind are stacked up against "The Last Place on Earth" which I can only give 5 stars to, so this one has to take 4.

The book is aptly named, as the ESCAPE from Lucania. Mt. Lucania was one of named peaks in Alaska's wilderness, close to the Coast. Reaching the base to set up a base camp was arduous, climbing herculaean, and escaping on foot as their bush pilot refused to come back to get them, hellish. At almost every turn the two men's plans, which may have been well-thought out but depended on incomplete and faulty intel, seemed to lead to dead ends. The sheer effort in setting up food and equipment depots along the climbing routewas was mind-numbing. If either had become seriously injured, the other would have only been able to retreat, and tried to survive the escape route. I had to keep reminding myself that the book opened with the two old men being interviewed for an article, so they made it out.

A good read in Estes Park over Christmas with family. One foray into Rocky was windy and cold, and gave me a taste of a fraction of what they endured for an elsive moment on the top of an unclimbed peak in the Alskan wilderness.

[Jack · Rating 4 out of 5]

Author David Roberts interviewed mountaineers Brad Washburn and Bob Bates both in there 90's at the time.
Brad and Bob were long time friends as they both belonged to the Harvard Mountaineering club.
These men in 1937 were the first to climb Mt. Lucania a 17,150 foot high mountain located in a remote part of Alaska. This was the highest non-climbed summit at the time.
Roberts starts off by presenting the history of mountaineering throughout the world. This evolved into Brad and Bobs harrowing expierence of climbing Lucania, and how they came close to dying.
This is an edge of your seat conquest that should appeal to all survival and adventure enthusiasts, including the arm chair variety.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 4 out of 5]

An absolutely epic account, and masterfully told by the inimitable David Roberts.

When two of the foremost American mountaineers Bradford Washburn and Robert Bates set out for an attempt on one of Alaska’s last great problems, Mount Lucania, they knew what they were in for.

Unforgivingly cold temperatures, miserable carries back and forth, difficult climbing, scant provisions, and an epic bushwhack out to civilization.

Their tale is a classic one that deserves to be read.

[Alex Baker · Rating 4 out of 5]

Book recommended and loaned to me by a customer. Probably not something I would’ve picked up myself but a book I throughly enjoyed nonetheless. I enjoyed the main story but also all of the history of mountaineering peppered into the book. Very cool story I knew nothing about and very enjoyable!

[Susan Keller · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very good account of a subject, mountain climbing, which I know nothing about. I am in awe of the two climbers and what they accomplished, especially the times they were climbing without today's equipment and safety devices

[Blanca M. Miller · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great story. Being an Andinista in my youth, I always look for survival stories. This is a fantastic one. Both men had the stamina, the strength, the wisdom and the naivete of the youth to survive and lived to tell their story. Thanks for sharing!

[Erneilson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bradford Washburn has long been a hero of mine. This narrative is an excellent story.

[Brenda · Rating 5 out of 5]

A classic joyful epic story of mountaineering and survival. Survival of the elements and friendship. Will search out more books by David Roberts. Will share this story with friends and family!

[Stevejs298 · Rating 4 out of 5]

Indeed, an epic story of survival.

[Anna Witt · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’d do anything to see those mountains and glaciers at the time they climbed them. Except be the first ascent

[Kasey Lawson · Rating 4 out of 5]

“In 1937, Mount Lucania was the highest unclimbed peak in North America. Located deep within the Saint Elias mountain range, which straddles the border of Alaska and the Yukon, and surrounded by glacial peaks, Lucania was all but inaccessible. The leader of one failed expedition deemed it "impregnable." But in that year, a pair of daring young climbers would attempt a first ascent, not knowing that their quest would turn into a perilous struggle for survival.”

[Abram · Rating 4 out of 5]

Another mountaineering classic of American Mountaineer lore, The story of Bradford Washburn and Robert(Bob)Bates climb of Mt. Lucania in the St. Elias Range on the Alaskan Yukon border. At the time it was the highest unclimbed mountain in North America. The trip starts with near disaster and the two men struggle to survive for the next weeks as they try to summit the mountain and then escape from the Yukon Wilderness with no supplies before they starve or are killed. This is an excellent book and is enjoyable for even those with no mountaineering interest.

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Concise telling of an early achievement by two young mountaineers in the high wild ranges of the Yukon. Somewhat frustratingly sketchy in parts. Based mainly on late-in-life interviews with the two men (who had significant mountaineering careers) and the entries of one climber's diary; both interviews and entries were blithe and breezy. I could sense some of the author's frustration in not being able to flesh out the story more. But the description of the surroundings and stages of the expedition are effective.

[Stefanie Robinson · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is about Mount Lucania, part of the mountain range Saint Elias. In 1937, Lucania was virtually isolated, due to being deep in this mountain range and surrounded by glaciers. A group of people decided to try to scale this mountain, and in doing so ran into some difficulties that caused them to have to fight for their lives. It was a good book, but less dramatic than I anticipated. If you are into mountain climbing or stories of survival amid disaster and dangerous circumstances, this may be a book for you.

[Cee · Rating 4 out of 5]

It could have ended differently. But it did not. They could have been included in the list of explorers who did not survive; their bodies never found. But they were not. Thus, we can share the audacity in exploring unknown territory, revel in setting up a camp on Shangri-la, despair in delays, detours and unrecovering food stashes; celebrate in reaching the summit and overcoming the odds.

There is some technical terminology used. But that is what google is for.

[Jesse · Rating 4 out of 5]

A wonderfully easy book that recounts a survival story of two early mountaineers in Alaska. One of the men because world famous for his black and white still photography of large mountain ranges (Brad Washburn). After being stranded miles from civilization the young men hiked unexplored wilderness in search of a small mining town but in the process put up first ascents on unclimbed peaks.

[Ralph · Rating 4 out of 5]

Knowing Washburn, Bates, and Roberts, and living in Alaska for nearly 30 years, this book had a special meaning for me. It's a wonderful adventure story, more of personal relationships from memories over 70 years old.

[Doug Cornelius · Rating 5 out of 5]

Roberts is a great writer and this is a great tale. I suppose most great adventure books put the protagonists in mortal danger. It would be fairly boring if there was not more danger than you would experience reading the book in your living room or during your commute.

[Mathias Seiwert · Rating 5 out of 5]

“Again, really enjoyed this book. I love reading about people being pushed to the extreme and overcoming. Similar to following Jesus—perseverance is such an important part of finishing strong in this life…”

[Dylan Kowalsky · Rating 3 out of 5]

Bob reeves an alaskan bush pilot wants to do the impsosible to climb the terrifing MT lucania many have tried all have failed bob has some minor mental issues many think that he went up there with no exprence. so he gathere a team and went did they do it you will have to find out;]

[Erik Lehnhoff · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ahhhh, the good old days of mountaineering! Great story of survival and sheer audacity. I think people were tougher back in those days!

[Mihai · Rating 4 out of 5]

This surely must rank as one of the greatest survival stories of the 20th century, if not the entire time.

[David Ford · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great beach read. Story telling was vivid and entertaining.

[Joanna]

A good introduction to Roberts' thorough-but-interesting journalistic style.

[Isabel Jesson · Rating 1 out of 5]

I’m sure this book has an audience, I just do not care for mountaineering