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In the Shadow of Denali: Life and Death on Alaska's Mt. McKinley
A study and celebration of North America's highest peak presents the stories of the men and women whose destinies have become intertwined with that of the dangerous moutain during struggles to reach its summit
First published December 1, 1993
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
January 6, 2020
I was expecting so much from this book but ended up pretty disappointed. I expected it to be full of deadly accounts of climbs and near misses but there was hardly any of that. Instead we got endless hero worship of the author's favourite climber, long biographies of the climbers but less about the climb, a man with mental illness and his previous exploits but a vague mention of him going to Denali to die, the author's adventures as a mountain guide in Alaska where he and his friends care little for the job they do, people they know who live in the area, great detail on the author shovelling other climber's turds, and other things that lacked the interest and excitement of the couple of detailed featured climbs. It was more about the author's poetic waffling about the mountain and his self-indulgent adventures. Even the stories of other people climbing has to mention the author's involvement or his view on things. To be honest I found this dull and boring. I'd rather have had the adventures of the bears that roam the area.
October 20, 2019
It is a "must read" for anyone who consider traveling to Alaska or even trying to climb Denali itself. A book about wounderful land, about true friendships, about a job which is done not for a pay-check but because it is a way of life. Book of inspiration about a unique connection between a man and a nature. A bit of a sad feeling for everyone who's work is in the office and not in Denali National Park.
August 9, 2025
As a fan of mountaineering adventure, I really tried to slog through this book. The chapters are choppy and poorly-organized with a lot of names, facts, and by-the-ways. What’s missing is courage and heart—well-crafted, nail-biting stories of mountaineering adventure and misadventure. The reader is indifferent to the fate of the climbers because we don’t really know them.
December 27, 2018
The author does a phenomenal job at capturing his and other climbers' experiences on a tireless mountain. He recognizes the trauma that it has left in the minds of those who have come face to face with death on the mountain. Waterman will pull you into the heart of Alaska with this recount of experiences.
I truly enjoyed reading and learning the different stories of these infamous climbers within the industry who climb for themselves rather than to be recognized. I especially loved reading the chapter about bears because of how many times he seems to tie back to what was previously written about.
This book will probably not make you want to go climb Denali yourself, but it will create a drive to go see the infamous mountain yourself, and maybe spend a little time exploring the base areas.
Overall, a great read!
I truly enjoyed reading and learning the different stories of these infamous climbers within the industry who climb for themselves rather than to be recognized. I especially loved reading the chapter about bears because of how many times he seems to tie back to what was previously written about.
This book will probably not make you want to go climb Denali yourself, but it will create a drive to go see the infamous mountain yourself, and maybe spend a little time exploring the base areas.
Overall, a great read!
July 13, 2024
In the Shadow of Denali
Jon Waterman’s book is absolutely brilliant. You could almost be forgiven thinking it was fiction, so unreal are the scenarios, adventures and characters of this book. A history of Denali and those who chose to climb or attempt to climb it, sad with the deaths of many but also a celebration of the Alaskan wilderness, its mountains, forests and rivers and the amazing wildlife living there. Once I started I found it hard to put down (one does have to eat and sleep at some point).
Jon Waterman’s book is absolutely brilliant. You could almost be forgiven thinking it was fiction, so unreal are the scenarios, adventures and characters of this book. A history of Denali and those who chose to climb or attempt to climb it, sad with the deaths of many but also a celebration of the Alaskan wilderness, its mountains, forests and rivers and the amazing wildlife living there. Once I started I found it hard to put down (one does have to eat and sleep at some point).
October 20, 2021
I love the stories about the wild of Denali and some of the climbing but I have a bit of a problem with the author's approach. He acts superior to folks that bicker about disasters and achievements on Denali, but he himself kind of badmouths folks; that leaves a bad taste for me. Worth reading though.
May 14, 2020
Goos but...
Some really good parts of this book i loved, but it lacked a cohesive narrative so i was left feeling like it rambled on and didnt explore the questions it had set up in my mind as a reader
Some really good parts of this book i loved, but it lacked a cohesive narrative so i was left feeling like it rambled on and didnt explore the questions it had set up in my mind as a reader
January 20, 2021
A collection of stories about trips up Denali, both successful and fatal. I liked that the author was very descriptive and made it easy to see the events unfolding. 3 stars because there were entirely too many typo's that interfered with the enjoyment of the stories.
May 4, 2021
Delivered more that it promised. I'm no mountain climber and no great interest in doing so, but the book somehow held a fascination that I did not expect despite the sometimes seemingly disjointed narrative.
November 9, 2017
I guess I read this but I don't remember the details. I need to be more careful to write the review as soon as I finish the book
June 6, 2018
An Alaskan mountaineering classic. But more than that. Amazing characters, descriptive writing. A great book.
April 1, 2019
3.5 stars. Good book, giving insight into the people and landscape that surround Denali, "The High One" in Athabascan
October 27, 2021
Inspiring and relatable: low gravity days, altitude sickness, not quite making it to the summit. Great reading as winter conditions start to set in.
September 14, 2008
These people are crazy.
Addicted to pushing physical and emotional barriers, climbing becomes an obsession, leading to injury, death, or at the very least, burnout.
Waterman captures the intensity of the experience and the (mostly) men who make mountains, in this case Denali (Mt McKinley) in Alaska, the main focus of their lives. Some of them are anti-social to begin with; certainly their ability and wish to relate to others is severly tested by the self-imposed deprivations and limited circle they inhabit.
Some of the accounts of the climbs, journeys and rescues are very powerful; others lack the same life. Those who climb only to add another accomplishment to their resume, rude and often unprepared, do not come off well, particularly in their lack of appreciation for the environment they are defiling, and their expectation that others will make up for their deficiencies and mistakes and pick up after them or rescue or even die for them. Most cannot even manage a word of thanks.
Waterman is also distressed by the disappearance of the wilderness and habitat of native Alaskan species; he speaks often of the Native American views on honoring the spirit and of the land, of treading lightly and with humility, a way of living he agress with. His descriptions of the environment surrounding Denali are often eloquent and from the heart.
I think he idealizes the climbers' often short lives and deaths, and plays down the pain they may have brought to their families and friends. It's an insular world, that does not have much respect for those who make different choices, or allow that they can also live lives that possess integrity. When he speaks of "the banality of city life" and its "already dead" inhabitants, I know he is parroting a stereotype, not the expeience of the city I know. Surely he does not need to denigrate others to honor his friends.
At the same time, you have to admire the respect the climbers show for the earth and its beauty and power, their willingness to challenge themselves, both physically and mentally, and the way they live sparely, not accumulating more than they need or wasting what they have.
They would not consider a snowmobile championship, or hunting and fishing for sport, or drilling for oil, as accomplishments to list on their resume. In that, perhaps, they represent the true spirit of Alaska, rather than the "Alaska lite" of its current political leaders.
Addicted to pushing physical and emotional barriers, climbing becomes an obsession, leading to injury, death, or at the very least, burnout.
Waterman captures the intensity of the experience and the (mostly) men who make mountains, in this case Denali (Mt McKinley) in Alaska, the main focus of their lives. Some of them are anti-social to begin with; certainly their ability and wish to relate to others is severly tested by the self-imposed deprivations and limited circle they inhabit.
Some of the accounts of the climbs, journeys and rescues are very powerful; others lack the same life. Those who climb only to add another accomplishment to their resume, rude and often unprepared, do not come off well, particularly in their lack of appreciation for the environment they are defiling, and their expectation that others will make up for their deficiencies and mistakes and pick up after them or rescue or even die for them. Most cannot even manage a word of thanks.
Waterman is also distressed by the disappearance of the wilderness and habitat of native Alaskan species; he speaks often of the Native American views on honoring the spirit and of the land, of treading lightly and with humility, a way of living he agress with. His descriptions of the environment surrounding Denali are often eloquent and from the heart.
I think he idealizes the climbers' often short lives and deaths, and plays down the pain they may have brought to their families and friends. It's an insular world, that does not have much respect for those who make different choices, or allow that they can also live lives that possess integrity. When he speaks of "the banality of city life" and its "already dead" inhabitants, I know he is parroting a stereotype, not the expeience of the city I know. Surely he does not need to denigrate others to honor his friends.
At the same time, you have to admire the respect the climbers show for the earth and its beauty and power, their willingness to challenge themselves, both physically and mentally, and the way they live sparely, not accumulating more than they need or wasting what they have.
They would not consider a snowmobile championship, or hunting and fishing for sport, or drilling for oil, as accomplishments to list on their resume. In that, perhaps, they represent the true spirit of Alaska, rather than the "Alaska lite" of its current political leaders.
October 6, 2008
This book was MORE than a book about the trials of mountaineering; it taught me how to live. I don't know. I guess you have to be someone who enjoys endurance sports. Like the author, I find that I learn more about myself and life by struggling through a particularly challenging feat. I don't do it to impress others, I do it to push myself to my limits and understand how much determination I have to complete a goal. And, like I said, you learn about life in the process. This book is utterly inspiring. I don't think you have to be a mountaineer to get it.
March 22, 2011
A must read for my fellow Alaska travelers, if only for the Bear Chapter. I am one who does not really get the mentallity of these folks that scale mountains in constant danger... but this collection of true stories about Alaska's Denali was very interesting. I was almost through the book when the author shared that he was born in Rhode Island! A large number of the deaths on Denali have taken place in snow storms in JULY!!! And there is a lot of backround information on Talkeetna as well! A definate must for the July Alaska Group!!
July 27, 2012
Jonathan Waterman's crisp writing style really carries his book "In the Shadow of Denali" above the level of the typical expedition book. It's clear he loves Denali, the tallest mountain in North America as well as many of the guides and personalities that have climbed up and down its snowy slopes. The book tells the tale of many of Denali's most famous adventurers and a few lesser known friends of Waterman who have been involved in tragic expeditions. Tales are told in a moving and beautiful way, making this book a real joy to read.
January 14, 2008
A very good mountaineering book by Waterman. He puts the reader on the mountain, describing the low points of climbing (where to go to the bathroom on top of freezing peak, way above treeline-think about that?) and the unbelievable sense of accomplishment and view upon reaching the summit. Not a glorified account of his experience but a well executed story.
April 28, 2016
A beautifully written book about the author's love affair with Alaska in general and Denali in particular. At times hilarious, harrowing, heartbreaking. A must read for any armchair adventurer. And truthfully, this book isn't simply about Alaska but really it's about how we choose to live, our capitulation to the demands of psyche and the world. I love this book.
November 30, 2021
What is it about climbing that seems to attract, or create, good writers? Whatever it is, Jonathan Waterman is certainly an example. This collection of essays about Denali is beautifully written, sometimes poignant, and sometimes provoking outrage. It will please not only climbers but anyone interested in Alaska and the wilderness.
November 8, 2008
Pretty good writing, not just about mountaineering but about Alaska in general. Really shows what a beautiful, but harsh place it is.
September 25, 2013
Fun to read after my visit to Alaska.
November 29, 2014
Interesting high mountain story.
July 11, 2017
What a fantastic, thrilling, good read! The author shares so many of his own personal adventures and writes about other climbers, rescues & tragedies, and of the mountain itself in such a beautuful, humorous and intelligent style.
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews