This is a vivid record, in words, illustrations and working diagrams, of a section of women's clothing design from 1600 to 1930. The author was in charge of costume at the Theatre Studio run by Michel Saint-Denis in the 1930s.
I had high expectations for THE CUT OF WOMEN’S CLOTHES, in large part because the male counterpart by the author is my go-to reference book for male fashions. Unfortunately, this book completely failed to live up to potential.
Despite the book being chalk full of technical information, patterns, pictures, and first hand accounts, the book’s coverage of female fashion is incredibly lopsided. If it isn’t involved in the actual dress, it’s not covered. The construction of hats, gloves, stockings, and other important accessories are largely ignored, even in eras where they are just as important as the gowns themselves. Considering CUT OF MEN’S CLOTHES managed to include all that info for the men of same time periods, its omission here is quite conspicuous. Also, if the period’s style isn’t from England or France, forgot about it entirely, because the book doesn’t bother covering them.
The book improves significantly after the introduction of Victorian fashion, largely because the author spends much more time explaining the why’s and how’s of women’s fashion trends, rather than briefly describing their construction and moving on. It’s also fun to read snippets of Lady Duff Gordon’s self-aggrandizing fashion histories, regardless of context. The improvement is not enough to save the book in my eyes, but it adds a half-star to my original 2-star disappointment.
“Looke to it, for I'll stabbe ye You whom the Devill (Pride's father) doth perswade To paint your face, and mende the worke God made, You with the Hood, the Falling bande, and ruffe The Moncky-waste, the breeching like a Beare; The Perriwig, the Maske, the Fanne, the Muffe, The Bodkin and the Bussard in your haire; You Velvet-cambricke-silken-feather' d toy, That with your pride do all the world annoy, I'll stabbe ye.” -F.W. Fairholt
Patterns! Quotations! Diagrams! Illustrations! And oh so much historical-accuracy-snobbery! What more could a seamstress ask for?
This has been my Go to for Historic patterns and for inspiration in my Designs for Years I first found the book when I was attending Tarleton State University for my Theatre classes and have many times gone to it as I started designing and making Gowns for my Vast Doll collection and then when I branched into Porcelain Dollmaking I had always wanted to own a copy and one day I will
This book is great for those who love fashion and history. It includes excerpts of writing, dress patterns, and pictures. The Cut of Women's Clothes showcases how women's clothing changed over the years. It's also an excellent book for fashion designers looking into more flamboyant and ladylike designs.
Absolute classic about historical dressmaking, but the kindle edition is terrible. Entirely made up of low resolution scans. Immensely difficult to read.
Informative history of women's clothing as the title suggests. Interesting to me were the patterns and the contemporary commentaries about the latest fashion and how it was worn.
I wish there were a few more pictures in here, but this is an otherwise excellent resource. The book includes fashion plates and patterns, descriptions of clothing cuts and details, and quotes from each century's fashion contemporaries.
I used to own this book. I loved this book (patterns!). I loaned this book. I have never seen this book again. When I find an affordable copy I will replace it.