Seeking Sicily: A Cultural Journey Through Myth and Reality in the Heart of the Mediterranean

by John Keahey

"Keahey's exploration of this misunderstood island offers a much-needed look at a much-maligned land."―Paul Paolicelli, author of Under the Southern Sun

Sicily is the Mediterranean's largest and most mysterious island. Its people, for three thousand years under the thumb of one invader after another, hold tightly onto a culture so unique that they remain emotionally and culturally distinct, viewing themselves first as Sicilians, not Italians. Many of these islanders, carrying considerable DNA from Arab and Muslim ancestors who ruled for 250 years and integrated vast numbers of settlers from the continent just ninety miles to the south, say proudly that Sicily is located north of Africa, not south of Italy.

Seeking Sicily explores what lies behind the soul of the island's inhabitants. It touches on history, archaeology, food, the Mafia, and politics and looks to nineteenth- and twentieth-century Sicilian authors to plumb the islanders' so-called Sicilitudine . This "culture apart" is best exemplified by the writings of one of Sicily's greatest writers, Leonardo Sciascia. Seeking Sicily also looks to contemporary Sicilians who have never shaken off the influences of their forbearers, who believed in the ancient gods and goddesses.

Author John Keahey is not content to let images from the island's overly touristed villages carry the story. Starting in Palermo, he journeyed to such places as Arab-founded Scopello on the west coast, the Greek ruins of Selinunte on the southwest, and Sciascia's ancestral village of Racalmuto in the south, where he experienced unique, local festivals. He spent Easter Week in Enna at the island's center, witnessing surreal processions that date back to Spanish rule. And he learned about Sicilian cuisine in Spanish Baroque Noto and Greek Siracusa in the southeast, and met elderly, retired fishermen in the tiny east-coast fishing village of Aci Trezza, home of the mythical Cyclops and immortalized by Luchino Visconti's mid-1940s film masterpiece, La terra trema . He walked near the summit of Etna, Europe's largest and most active volcano, studied the mountain's role in creating this island, and looked out over the expanse of the Ionian Sea, marveling at the three millennia of myths and history that forged Sicily into what it is today.

Genres: Italy, Travel, History, Nonfiction, European History

336 pages, Hardcover

First published November 8, 2011

Reviews

[Marc Lamot · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was a little disappointed at first, because I expected this book to provide a nice historical overview of the complex history of the island. And of course, Keahey has incorporated a lot of history into it, how could it be otherwise. But he has turned it into a very hybrid book, a mixture of travelogues, essays, and biographical and historical material. He certainly succeeds in making the very unique character of Sicily tangible, according to him mainly the result of the Greek and Arab influence. And he is also able to explain why the island within the united Italy not only got the feeling that it was being disadvantaged, but also was and is actually disadvantaged; according to Keahey, Garibaldi and company just colonized Sicily. The author clearly also has a soft spot for the Sicilian writer Sciascia and his lucid evocations of phenomena such as the mafia and political corruption. And of course, Thomaso di Lampedusa (The Leopard) and Luigi Pirandello are not missing either. This is a bit of a fanciful and sometimes repetitive book, with a slight American focus, but very richly filled, which above all shows an intense love for the Sicilian culture.

[Rebecca · Rating 3 out of 5]

Summary: The content in this book is fantastic, but I was less impressed with the quality of writing.

I read this in preparation for a trip to Sicily, and I was glad that I had because I knew a lot more about the fascinating and complex history of the island, as well as some fun insights into the culture and collective psyche of Sicilians (did you know that the Sicilian dialect has no future tense?).

However, I was less than impressed with John Keahey's writing. There wasn't much cohesion between the chapters, and it felt more like a series of short stories that were kind of thrown together, rather than a larger entity that was carefully crafted to paint the larger picture.

I would recommend it, but a little grudgingly...

[Jeanette · Rating 5 out of 5]

History, travelogue, witness documentation- all of the above.

This explains the dissonance with Italian identity, language differences, world perception, and other self-identity issues which I have always discerned in my humans of Sicilian heritage and origin. Those who were nearly life-long Sicilians in location, as well as those who left in the early or mid 20th century diaspora.

The history is so complicated and complex to invasion, hierarchy, tribal or ethnic origins, beyond factors of religious or cultural belief, that this book is a difficult read. Sometimes beyond sad and into horrific. But always completely instructive.

It left me with at least 4 or 5 facts of detail that I have always wondered about or with some interface to the issues of differences that I have observed. And now I know.

Some of them are in regards to language use. But most are in the agenda of cultural habits and protocols that are similar to fragments of Sharia Law. But most are more regularly stuck in the neighborhood of trust or self-identity to inclusion, especially to governments or church power structures.

The most poignant one, for me, was the use of language details. How Sicilian translation into Italian and other languages differs from that used by most other languages, especially the Romance languages. And that it is so much older than the other formed and now designated "Romance" branch of language group. The fact of holding no future tense in Sicilian, and how the statement of the sentence often puts the noun in another place beyond the present tense. Or why completely different than within Italian /Tuscan dialect (accepted Italian)- it has 1/7th of all its Sicilian words arising from Greek or Arab origin/formation.

And the idioms are quite different too. That's why I am amazed that Sicilian is translated so well in several authors' works. As in the Montalbano series or within Ferrante- those especially, are masterful translations for nuance- but not in anyway formed from the actual nouns or verbs used.

This one is a keeper. It would be instructive to read before any trip to Sicily. Thanks to the GR friends who gave me a heads up on this one. SUPERIOR personal experience and lots of research combine here for a singular definitive glance at the beauty and at the horror. And for millennia, there have been both in quantity.

The little boys who carried sulfur on their backs in those mines! That was one of the worse human experiences I've read of any record.

[Любен Спасов · Rating 3 out of 5]

Заглавието на книгата напълно коректно описва цялото съдържание. Авторът ни показва същността на тази страна, нейният пулс, ритъм и ни кара да уловим сърцето й по един красив начин. Книгата не е типичната за жанра. В нея не се разказва само за местата, които е посетил Джон Кейхи и какво е видял. Той иска да ни покаже нещо много повече – далеч от клишето за световноизвестната мафия от този район.

Кейхи без проблеми преплита историята на Сицилия, която има различни корени от цял свят, нейните особености, географски забележителности, кулинарните изкушения. Показва ни различни хора от този край, които са известни със своя темперамент, но и топло отношение към всеки един нов човек. Разбира се и това се е променило с течение на годините, но той иска да покаже Сицилия в една светлина, в която може би повечето от нас не са свикнали да я виждат. Но Кейхи не спира до тук. В типичния си репортерски стил той успява да вмъкне в разказа си както истории от местни жители, които допълват колорита на Сицилия, така и да вкара културният живот на страната на преден план. В книгата той разказва за писатели, актьори, велики филми, весели песни, фестивали, фотографии, които отразяват сицилианския начин на живот и как тяхната култура не е за подценяване.

Ако искате да последвате Джон Кейхи по тесните улички на Сицилия определено няма да сбъркате.

Като минус за книгата мога да кажа, че самият начин на писане на авторa не ме грабна особено. Дойде ми малко по-суховат отколкото на мен ми се искаше. Особено като говорим за тази така гореща страна.

[Диана · Rating 2 out of 5]

2,5*

[Alan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this book as I set out on a 10 day journey around the island of Sicily. Although I am sure I would have enjoyed my trip whether I had read this or not, I can say with certainty that my trip was significantly enhanced by this book. The author does so much more than re-hash the famous sites or perpetuate Sicilian stereotypes - he gets behind the scenes and gives insight into the history and culture of the place. It really brought the island to life in ways that a typical travel narrative couldn't even approach. Sicily has such a complex history and evolution that I don't think one can visit it too many times or read too much about it. There's so much to learn.

He also incorporates Sicilian literature into his narrative and having recently read "The Leopard", it was great to read his interpretation of how this great novel fits into the culture and history of the island. He also brings to light some of the less documented aspects of Sicilian history such as the tragedy of the sulfur mining industry. I would strongly recommend this book to anyone planning on visiting Sicily or wanting to examine the unique history (Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, etc.) of a fascinating and beautiful place. Great book!!!

[Susan Tekulve · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an excellent travelogue by a wonderful journalist. Keahey has his own favorite points of interest, and his narrative voice is highly agreeable; however, like any good journalist he doesn't place his own agenda first or try to make himself into the "hero" of his own journey. Instead, he records rich details and observations about his travels in a way that allows the reader to see and experience this somewhat unknown country for herself. I read this book twice.

[Jane · Rating 4 out of 5]

For the person who is contemplating a trip to Sicily or someone, like me, who is reminiscing about a recent visit, this is an excellent read. The author links mythology, current culture, historical events and key figures, into a most readable and enjoyable experience.

[Wendy Hart · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fascinating read written in the unique style of a cross between a travelogue and a historical/cultural review. Resonated with me because of my research interest in the subject matter.

[Maddy · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars!

I moved to Sicily approximately a month ago and this book has been a great comprehensive guide to Sicily’s present and past from a foreigner’s perspective. My only quarrel is that I found the chapters a bit all over the place, especially at the start. For example, we jump from the Greek story of Polyphemus and then to the modern Sicilian language without much liaison between the two.

I think it might've been more logical to start with Sicily as a melting pot of influences and to then divide each chapter from there. Also, I don't think this author has much love for Catania as it didnt't seem to get much time dedicated to it considering how important of a city it is here in Sicily (but maybe I'm just bitter).

[Annette · Rating 3 out of 5]

Three and one half stars. More history than personal journey, nevertheless I learned more about how Sicily defies description based on the multiple influences of many cultures throughout their long history.

[Vasilka · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really liked this book. While I was reading it, I just felt I'm with the narrator in Sicily. The way he described every little moment of his experience in Sicily is just amazing and can make you feel its spirit around you, no matter how far from it you are at the moment.

[Michele · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great overview of culture and history. Not the typical travelogue filled with prattle.

[Hazel · Rating 3 out of 5]

Despite my preference for reading fiction, I did enjoy this book. The author took a few trips to Sicily in different seasons, and recounts his travels in a leisurely paced style. Each chapter deals with a certain topic (my favorite one was on food!), and in fact it almost seems as though each chapter could have been a free-standing magazine article. This brought back many memories from our trip there last spring, but it also broadened my knowledge of the country's history and culture. The author outlines what is known of its history and appropriately focuses on all the aspects of the culture--food, language, architecture, religion, politics, and their formation by the successive waves of invaders. When I say "what is known of its history"--think of this: the ancient Greeks were at least the third or fourth group of people to rule this country. Some of the history is quite harsh, especially the hellish descriptions of the sulfur mines, the hard lives of the peasants, especially under French, German, and Spanish rule; and yet there were some fascinating nuggets--Booker T. Washington visited Sicily and found the lives of the poor were worse than that of the American slaves; the sonnet originated in Sicily; and the linguistic observations in looking at the Sicilian dialect (especially that Sicilian and Arabic do not have future tenses; the author quotes a linguist who notes this is an example of language reflecting the inner life); and that the Spanish Inquisition was not just in Spain.
Blood oranges, lemons, almonds, and olives...beautiful, ancient countryside....

[Sarah Monsees · Rating 3 out of 5]

An informative book about Sicily that catches a bit of the spirit of this country, which is basically what the book proclaimed to offer. It was a little dry and difficult to get through, full of often unnecessary descriptions or factual information. However, overall, I was able to walk away with a brief background on Sicily and a clearer vision of its mystical (and oftentimes stubborn...sorry, married to a Sicilian) spirit.

[David Wogahn · Rating 4 out of 5]

A little slow to get into but it's worth being patient. It isn't a guide book like a Rick Steves, but a deep look at the history, culture, and people that make Sicily the unique place that it is. It was an excellent primer for a 15 day trip to the island. Highly recommended for anyone planning a visit.

[Tim Martin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very enjoyable travel essay on Sicily by John Keahey. Second book of his that I have read, he is becoming a favorite. Based on four trips the author made in 2009, this 2011 work was meant to “develop a better understanding of Sicilians and their unique culture, which is demonstrably separate from Italy itself, through conversations with these Mediterranean islanders and by studying their writers, their myths, and a history that spans more than three thousand years.”

In fifteen thematic chapters and an afterword, Keahey discussed the art, literature, cuisine, mythology, politics, history, culture, and terrain of Sicily, a good balance of a review of the literature, relating what the author saw in person, and his interviews with scholars, artists, and with many different people in Sicily.

Briefly, the chapters covered author Giuseppe di Lampedusa, author of _The Leopard_ (1960) and buildings in Palermo associated with him; Palermo (discussing also the overall history of “the Mediterranean’s largest and most contested [island] from ancient times onward,” a place where “Middle Easterners and North Africans had intermingled with the Sicilians who were a combination of Greek, Carthaginian and, perhaps, a few Romans – not to mention the remnants of the indigenous peoples the colonizing Greeks absorbed into their culture during the seventh through third centuries B.C.”); the dying art of the wonderful hand painted wheeled carts of Sicily, the carretti; a visit to the small, southcentral, inland town of Racalmuto to talk about Sicilian author Leonardo Sciascia (1921-1989) and view the festivities associated with the San Giuseppe’s, or Saint Joseph’s feast day (every March 19); the bleak “story of south-central Sicily’s sulfur minters, laboring by hand and with sheer brute strength in an era before mechanical equipment, where much of the world’s sulfur came from this island,” a tale that included stories of children sold to miners, the carusi (singular caruso), the author reviewing accounts of conditions such as Sciascia’s _Salt in the Wound_, what the children endured, something Sicilians occasionally talked about as a “jolt of what the reality really was” and an antidote to “pastoral romanticism” about Sicily during the diaspora; the story of the Spanish Inquisition in Sicily and again a review of the literature, especially Sciascia’s _The Death of the Inquisitor_; the “sense of Sicilian separateness” known as Sicilitudine and a typical phrase, “Surfaru sugnu,” translating to “I am just sulfur,” which shows a fatalistic belief “that people, like chunks of that nonmetallic element being tossed into a cart for transport, have no control over what is happening to them or where they are going” as well as more celebration of Sciascia, who “is a guiding light to younger writers still producing remarkable fiction with a uniquely Sicilian voice” and successor to other great Sicilian authors, Giovanni Verga (1840-1922) and Luigi Pirandello (1867-1936); a chapter discussing the Greek, Carthaginian, Roman, Arab, and Norman blood in the island and that is part of the culture, noting among other things that while the “Arabs may have controlled Sicily and parts of southern Italy for a mere two and a half centuries out of three thousand years” the impact can still be seen in “the origins of many city, village, and family names and in the cuisine” and a “closer, innate sense of connection DNA-wise and emotionally, with North Africa rather than with mainland Europe or even mainland Italy” as well as discussion of the rebellion known as the Sicilian Vespers that was “one of the most significant events in Sicilian history: an ill-fated rebellion, perhaps the only time the Sicilians had a real shot at establishing control over their own destinies”; two chapters on the close ties of Greek mythology to Sicily including Odysseus’s battle with the cyclops and especially the myth of Persephone and her kidnapping and descent into the underworld; a discussion of the Sicilian language, noting language influences including administrative Roman Latin and Greek as well a discussion of the influence that Sicilian had on the development of Italian as a national language; a discussion of the mafia and their history; a chapter on the Etna volcano; Sicilian cuisine, famous cookbooks of and books on Sicilian food, including in the chapter recipes for pasta ‘ncasciata (oven-baked pasta), purpetti di maiali (Ragusan meatballs), and cassatine di Pasqua (Sicilian Easter cake); an overall tour of Sicily and a visit to the globally famous Easter festival in Enna; and an afterword that summarizes the book a bit and discusses how while the Normans, French, and Spanish “certainly exerted influence on the island” that “it is the Greeks and the Arabs from whom most Sicilians descend and identify with.”

Has a really nice map, a section of black and white plates, a select bibliography, a historical timeline at the beginning of the book, and an index.

[Димитър Тодоров · Rating 3 out of 5]

Чичко американец от Юта, пенсионер журналист, влюбен в Италия, обикаля три пролетни месеца из Сицилия, нощува по няколко дни в избрани селца, беседва с хората, които среща в кафенетата и къщите за гости (доколкото езиковата бариера позволява), проявява любопитство към каквото му покажат и където го заведат, диви се на природата, нравите, кухнята, отношението към живота, историята, политиката и … на стари години се учи да пише пътеписни книги. Задава си теми за различните села и области, които посещава – примерно древно наследство; византийски, нормански и арабски приноси; кулинария; католически Разпети петък и православен Великден (с червени яйца!); писатели веристи; режисьори неореалисти; мафията и непосредствеността на общуване с чужденци; традиционно сърдечно гостоприемство; недолюбване на Гарибалди в традициите на недолюбване на всяко поредно нашествие; местният Робин Худ Салваторе Джулиано и първомайското клане от 1947; (позьорско) презрително мрънкане срещу (другите) туристи. Като не пропуска да ни уведоми за номера на шосето, по което е минал, точно между кой и кой километър го е валял дъжд и къде точно е намерил или се е затруднил да намери място за паркиране във всяко следващо селище, непроектирано през Античността и Средновековието като за туристи, пардон – пътеписатели, с коли под наем. Съвсем по американски, колкото и да се опитва да се въздържи (не се и опитва), не успява на всяко нещо, което среща, първо да не даде оценка като на бизнес начинание, а чак после да разсъди върху културната му същност. Спомням си как през 90-те, още студент, се запознах в София с един американски професор по драма, обядвахме в много добър италиански ресторант, един от малкото, ако не и – единственият през онези години, където той очевидно изпита огромна наслада от всяко следващо поднесено блюдо. Но единствения му коментар беше “Това заведение е пълно с клиенти. Значи е един успешен бизнес!“ Та и Джон Кейхи – така. За негова чест обаче книгата е идеалното четиво по време на обиколка на Сицилия с обществен транспорт. Тъкмо си се увлякъл в главата за село Сутера под високия каменен монолит Монте Сан Паолино и Гепарда на Джузепе Томази ди Лампедуза (и великият филм на Висконти по романа), поглеждаш през прозореца на влака и пред тебе се извисява … високият каменен монолит Монте Сан Паолино със село Сутера в полите му. Безценно! И накрая една бележка до българския редактор, който е решил да се намеси тук и там с компетентни пояснения: Cavalleria rusticana не е селската конница!

[Anne · Rating 5 out of 5]

“...there are so many paradises in Sicily.”



My apologies to John Keahey for having this book on my shelf since its release, and finally getting around to reading it. Yet somehow, the timing was perfect. I just returned from my second trip to Sicily, this time as a solo traveler. It is a beautiful place that gets in the blood, and Keahey expresses so well everything that I love about Sicily, home of my paternal grandparents. Sharing his travels from four separate visits, he gives an excellent account of the history and culture of different regions and how these are reflected in literary works of this island, which must be distinguished from mainland Italy. I found it fascinating that he found that Sicilians consider themselves more as living north of Africa than south of Italy.

I have a vast collection of books about Sicily, and this is one of the best. For anyone who has Sicilian heritage or who wants to learn more about this remarkable island, I highly recommend this book. I have already pre-ordered Keahey’s next one, Sicilian Splendors: Discovering the Secret Places That Speak to the Heart, which will be released in November.

[Светлана Димитрова · Rating 5 out of 5]

Много съм доволна. Това е книга, която трябва да се чете само ако планирате да посе��ите Сицилия. Тя си е като един много интересен и различен наръчник за опознаване на острова. Просто трябва да се вземе тефтер и химикал и карта на острова и да се записва, къде, какво и как. От всичко, което съм прочела до сега от тази поредица тази книга сякаш ме удовлетворява напълно, тя се доближава максимално до това което искам от този тип романи (определено и книгата за Белгия попада сред любимците). Ако се чете просто ей така, за да се опознае мястото сигурно ще ви е скучна. Но ако сте пътешественици, които не търсят масовите туристически атракции, ��ко предпочитате да хапнете в кварталната кръчма където дори няма меню, а се приготвя всеки ден храната в зависимост от наличните продукти, ако искате да си изпиете кафето с местните, а не да пиете блутня снимайки се за социалните мрежи....значи това е вашата книга. Много информация за малки селца, за пътища и начини да се стигне до тях, много информация за местни ресторантчета и типични прави.

[Anca Popescu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very sweet written. And beeing sectioned into different chapters each talking about a totally different story puts the reader in the position of choosing the order in which he reads the book. I liked the fact that was not the deep into historical data but rather a comparison between now and then, all passed through to the author's expectation filter. Witch actually we all might have when visiting a new place. We read/hear things about it, in this case Sicily, then we travel there because sounds like such a great place to be. And beeing there you realise that the beauty you're looking for has to be discovered and found... This author makes a great job building perspective into the readers expectations.

[Donna · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book before, during, and after a trip to Sicily. It was stretched out over such a long period because at times it was very tedious to read. I enjoyed some of the information contained, but the writing style was sometimes drawn out too long or was too detailed about literature. The author was quite enamored with several Sicilian authors and spent a lot of time discussing them. If you were in on that aspect of the book, I think you would enjoy it more. It did add to what I had read about in other travel books and online readings, but the writing style did not entirely appeal to me.

[Larkin H · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a super enjoyable read. I read it in preparation for a trip to Sicily (a place I had visited before) and found that to be a perfect combination.

For those that have not visited the island, Keahey’s writing is vibrant and illustrative. However, there truly is something unique about Sicily, as Keahey so eloquently articulates, that can only be understood through experience.

I enjoyed Keahey’s variety of stories and how he highlighted lesser known places on the island. It served as a great amuse-bouche before my upcoming visit. For the right person, this is a perfect little book.

[SteveR · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book does a good job of explaining the turbulent history of Sicily, the domination and abuse by and influence of numerous "world powers" / countries - particularly the Greeks and Arabs. "One foreign power after another has trampled over this land ...." creating a "human stew from this melting pot called Sicily." So much so that Sicilians view themselves as living north of Africa rather than south of Italy.

I found several interesting topics on Sicily including: the old, historical carts; religious ceremonies and parades; the history of the Mafia; Mount Etna; and food - including some interesting recipes. However, I found the author repeats himself, goes off track and focuses excessively on the Sicilian author Leonardo Sciascia.

[Cristina · Rating 5 out of 5]

A lovely book providing substantial, accurate knowledge on nearly all aspects of Sicily. The book moves the reader throughout ancient and modern times touching on food, language, and the Sicilian-Ethos, by far my favorite chapter.

I noted other readers were off-put by Keahey's writing style and I must disagree. Although the run-on sentences could be sometimes confusing to follow, the "short-story" style others have mentioned in the book, I found delightful.

Congratulations and thank you on a beautifully written description of the island.

[John · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you have any interest in the history and culture of Sicily - and in particular, what makes the island and its people so unique from the rest of Italy - I highly recommend this book. The author approaches this misunderstood and often unfairly maligned region with a curiosity and understanding that borders on empathy itself. He captures the soul and psyche of a people who have never truly had a nation of their own, but who have built a culture and mythology that is every bit as grand as the European empires that took turn claiming the island as their own. Truly enjoyable read!

[Margaret Burns Vap · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have to admit, I wasn't enthralled by Keahey's travel writing. But after getting about halfway through, I arrived in Sicily for a little over a week...and I was pleasantly surprised at how much the book had taught me. Once I picked it up again, things came alive more...most likely because I was there, and it didn't hurt that one of the chapters I had left to read was about food. The history chapter gets bogged down in complicated details...but then again, Sicily's got a pretty complicated history, after all.

[Belli Mor · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’m always looking for good reads about Italy and specially Sicily, the land of my ancestors. This is by far the best book I have read about the beautiful island. Mr Keahey tells the story of the history of the island, its people, and their conflicts in a very precise and enjoyable way. Reading this book I felt like I was there alongside the writer experiencing what he was experiencing in his many visits.

[Brooke Bielski · Rating 5 out of 5]

Currently planning my trip to Sicily now. What I wouldn't give to visit Siracusa with John Keahey and Steve McCurdy and see Temple E. Or try the "hint of tartness" lemons and the blood oranges. Or ride down the Ciane and see the Papyrus. Or visit Franco and his hand painted carts. Or experience the weeklong Easter celebration. Or climb Etna. What a beautiful read of Sicily's brutal history and Keahey's 2009/2010 visits there.

[Marilyn · Rating 4 out of 5]

Before we travel to Sicily our travel company sent us several books to read to learn about the history and culture of Sicily. It was quite informative. For example, did you know that the eastern half of Sicily is influenced heavily by the Greeks and the western half by the Arabs?
I would recommend this easy to read book by a travel writer and journalist if you want to learn lots about Sicily including its food culture.