Questions of Travel: William Morris in Iceland

by Lavinia Greenlaw

William Morris in Iceland: Questions of Travel Lavinia Greenlaw's selection from Morris's Icelandic Journal ('the best book of travel written by an English poet', and the least known) is interposed with her own 'questions of travel', which follow the footprints of Morris's prose, responding to its surfaces and undercurrents, extending its horizons. The result is a new and composite work, which brilliantly explores our conflicted reasons for not staying at home.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, History

193 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2011

Reviews

[Always Pink · Rating 3 out of 5]

A beautiful little book, in high quality printing, clothbound, would make a lovely present. Bought it on a whim at Foyles. Interesting introduction by Lavinia Greenlaw, amusing selection of Morris's travel diary. Not sure what to make of Greenlaw's interspersed aphorisms though, commenting on Morris's observations. They try to add an additional layer to the travelogue, but I found them rather distracting, and a bit pompous at times. - With hindsight I would rather have read Morris's text in an unabridged study edition.

[Sienna · Rating 3 out of 5]

Better in theory than execution. Greenlaw often simply paraphrases instead of elevating Morris's own remarks, which make for worthwhile reading on their own for the honesty and humor and humanity that shine from each page. His willingness to describe his flaws, his foibles, his fears would have won me over if I hadn't already counted myself a fan of the man.

Lord! what littleness and helplessness has taken the place of the old passion and violence that had place here once — and all is unforgotten; so that one has no power to pass it by unnoticed: yet that must be something of a reward for the old life of the land, and I don't think their life now is more unworthy than most people's elsewhere, and they are happy enough by seeming. Yet it is an awful place: set aside the hope that the unseen sea gives you here, and the strange threatening change of the blue spiky mountains beyond the firth, and the rest seems emptiness and nothing else: a piece of turf under your feet, and the sky overhead, that's all; whatever solace your life is to have here must come out of yourself or these old stories, not over hopeful themselves. Something of all this I thought; and besides our heads were now fairly turned homeward, and now and again a few times I felt homesick — I hope I may be forgiven.

For her part, Greenlaw urges the universal from Morris's particular experience of Iceland, inviting readers to do the same. She takes a line from his journal — "The reality of the sight," for instance — and meditates upon both what he discusses openly and the unspoken emotion driving his late summer trek across the north.

For once you are heading towards things whose shapes you know.

As you approach, the view moves into place: sinking, drawing in, running away.

You also see what you know is there.

That thin thread of insight and imagination. Not just seen in the mind but seen into.

Poetic, yes. Exquisite, in fact. Thought-provoking. I'm just not sure how much these spare thoughts add beyond directing the reader's attention down a very specific path: ravens in flight across that vast landscape populated by the stories Morris acknowledged as "not over hopeful themselves." And yet I found solace in them.

You can read Morris's Icelandic journals online here.

[Andy Weston · Rating 5 out of 5]

William Morris (1834 – 1896) was an English textile designer, poet, artist, socialist activist, and, of course, writer.

He was greatly influenced in his love for Iceland by his University languages tutor Eiríkur Magnússon, who became a close friend. He is recognised as one of the most significant cultural figures of Victorian Britain.

Leaving his wife Jane and his children at his manor house in July 1871 Morris left for Iceland with Charles Faulkner, W. H. Evans, and Eiríkur. Sailing from the Scottish port of Granton aboard a Danish mail boat, they proceeded to the island via Tórshavn in the Faroe Islands before arriving at Reykjavík, where they disembarked. From there, they proceeded by Icelandic horse along the south coast to Bergþórshvoll, Þórsmörk, Geysir, Þingvellir, and then back to Reykjavík, where they departed back to Britain in September.

These were the days of great explorers, and Morris's exploits may have into insignificance if it had not been for his journals, and his ability to write. He was not a very fit guy, nor had he very much expertise on travelling in the wilderness, and that comes over really well in his diaries.
Iceland is not an easy country to travel in these days. I'm currently on my third 'expedition' there now, and even in a campervan it is strewn with hazards; long distances between habitations, and the October weather - and this in the 2020s..

In his journals he manages to get over the trepidation of stepping into the unknown, from his preparation, to stepping on the boat in rough seas in Scotland, to journeying by horse in the most challenging weather in Iceland itself. He tells also of the landscape in vivid prose, and of the hospitality of local people who often took him into their houses on wild nights in the middle of nowhere.

This is some of the greatest travel writing. Its often difficult to describe to someone why one might undertake such a journey, and I have rarely read an explanation like this. I share some of Morris's character in that respect.

Lavinia Greenlaw follows in his footsteps, and interposes his prose with her own 'questions of travel.' It gives his journals some order, and fills gaps where necessary, but it is Morris's words that explore our conflicted reasons for not staying at home.

[Fiona · Rating 5 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book on a number of different levels. I love Iceland - a truly beautiful, amazing and intriguing country - which is what first drew my attention to this book, and then the quote on the front cover completely sucked me in:
' . . . a great mass of dark grey mountains worked into pyramids and shelves, looking as if they had been built and half ruined.'
It reminded me of my own travels in Iceland and the sights I had seen. On top of all this I've always liked the work of William Morris and I absolutely love poetry, so I had to read this book. I enjoyed seeing Iceland through someone else's eyes and comparing it to my own impressions. Lavinia Greenlaw's poems were the perfect compliment to the excerpts from Morris' journal, providing further insight to the events recounted but also leading me to contemplate my own travel experiences. All in all a great read.

[Alastair · Rating 4 out of 5]

The perfect accompaniment to a trip to Iceland. Some of the commentary was a little superfluous, but Morris writes excellently.

[Sophie (RedheadReading) · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great concept, the execution didn't dazzle like I hoped it would. Mainly this made me want to read the full unabridged diaries of Morris's trip to Iceland! Greenlaw's poetry sections were fine but they didn't evoke as much in me as I had hoped - they do show you what struck her about the passages which was interesting, I just think for most of the time I felt like they were just drawing my eye away from the text that actually interested me. This rating would be higher if it was just Morris's writings!

[Craig · Rating 4 out of 5]

Unique in its concept. A side by side; a) journal of a 6 week trip to Iceland by a prominent British designer, b) with non contemporary commentary on the content and perhaps deeper meaning of the author’s entries.
Fascinating and informative on a number of levels.
Thanks.

[Harold Rhenisch · Rating 4 out of 5]

Morris's account of his 19th century travels in Iceland are wondrous, quirky and refreshing: a truly modern exploration, a kind of "Three Men in a Boat" (high praise indeed), with courage, fords across raging rivers, self-deprecating campground failures, and marvellous Icelanders without a hint of the Blue Lagoon about them. The text has been edited down (too bad), is exquisitely printed (the book is a fine work of print craft), and Greenlaw has set each page of Morris's journey against a set of notes that dismantle it into a generic description of the phases of journeying itself. That is a most beautiful, most quirky (which I love), inspiring and frustrating effect, as the notes are far too abbreviated and verge on the banal. I wish she had done more with the brilliant idea.

[Moses · Rating 1 out of 5]

No good, very bad. The William Morris travelogue bits are good, but Greenlaw ruins it with the left-hand pages. She chopped up what seemed like a perfectly fine book and essentially highlit her favorite parts in the most annoying way she possibly could. It feels like you're trying to read a book and she's breathing down your neck and pointing out the bits she liked. Don't read this.

[Jan · Rating 4 out of 5]

William Morris has been stalking me, in gardening books, political philosophy books, books about writing rooms, Edith Wharton novels (Renaissance Man indeed). So when I saw this when I was looking for some pre-Iceland reading material, I was drawn to this odd little book. I'm glad I was. I wasn't too sure about Greenlaw's interpretation/poetry/summarising passages at first, but I got into the rhythm of it and thoroughly enjoyed it by the end.

[Homestic · Rating 4 out of 5]

More of an essay on the very nature of travel than necessarily on Iceland. Stunning in its own way. The occasional ramble, as journals are wont to do. Lavinia Greenlaws additional poetic notes taken from the journals are a fantastic addition.

[Katie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book during/after a trip to Iceland, and I loved it for that reason alone, because I loved the place, and reading about someone else's experience of loving it also made me so happy. I'd recommend for anyone who has a love affair with Iceland.

[Liz VanDerwerken · Rating 4 out of 5]

I first came across this interesting little volume at the Canadian Centre for Architecture in Montréal and was immediately intrigued—I love William Morris’s textiles and furniture designs, I’d long wanted to travel to Iceland, and I love travel essays and writing. I ordered a copy a while back and then read this during my recent trip to Iceland. I loved Morris’s travel journals and Lavinia Greenlaw’s juxtaposed musings on travel were thought-provoking and lovely, a great editorial detail. Morris’s journal writing was witty and interesting, and painted an accurate photo of what early travels would have been like—fording rivers on horseback, and an immersive experience of the Icelandic countryside. Reading it while I was in Iceland leant another dimension to my own observations of the island and the flowing moss and volcanic rock and cottages and horses and everything else.

[Gail Kennon · Rating 3 out of 5]

like trying to absorb what the speaker is saying on a webinar while constantly being distracted by chatbox chattering.5 for iceland, 4 for morris 0 for greenlaw...not what i expected at all..every page turned i'd be pulled from the text by the nagging guide on the opposite page. i have no idea what it was there for but as meaningless distraction.

[Ben North · Rating 3 out of 5]

Four stars for the diaries themselves, two stars for the presentation/additions so three overall. The editors strange pearls of reflection on each page are weird and don't really add anything. I would have preferred more biographical information and especially maps! With some nice little maps and illustrations the diaries could have been enhanced greatly.

[jane ainsworth · Rating 3 out of 5]

The bits written by William Morris were very interesting and enjoyable.
The bits written by Lavinia Greenlaw were irritating and inappropriate. However it did spur me on to read a biography of William Morris by Fiona Macarthy which was brilliant.

[Laurel · Rating 2 out of 5]

Questions of Travel: William Morris in Iceland is so painterly in sections that it's failure to carry this graphic imagery consistently was tremendously disappointing.

[Keith Seifert · Rating 3 out of 5]

Beautifully produced and printed book, and interesting idea, but this didn’t work for me.

[Richard · Rating 2 out of 5]

really a travelogue...today i did this, then the next i did that...provided a portrait of iceland at the time. couldn't much relate to the character.

[Hildegunn Hodne · Rating 3 out of 5]

William Morris’ travel journal is entertaining and an interesting read, and stands very well on its own. I'm not sure Lavinia Greenlaw’s poetical comments added much to the story, but I'm grateful for her interest in this text, as it brought it back to life and made it possible for me to find in a normal book shop.

[David Longfield · Rating 3 out of 5]

Beautiful book production. Loved the text but sadly wasn’t hooked by the commentary that often seemed a little pointless.