The History of Surfing

by Matt Warshaw

This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine).Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen.“The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Sports, Nature, Reference

1071 pages, Kindle Edition

First published September 1, 2009

About the author

Matt Warshaw is a former professional surfer, former writer and editor at Surfer magazine (1984-1990), and the author of dozens of feature articles and large-format books on surfing culture and history.
Warshaw currently curates the online Encyclopedia of Surfing and History of Surfing, each website based on expanded material from the archives assembled for their print companions. He has 1 child.

Reviews

[Dmitry Khvatov · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the longest book I've ever listened to.

[Katrin · Rating 3 out of 5]

I've been reading this bit by bit for several months. It gives you a very detailed history of surfing, from the very beginning some centuries ago until the present. Inevitably, this involves a lot of technical talk, since major developments in surfing had to do with the changing look of the surfboards (longboard/shortboard; material; fins ...). This was a little too much at times. There was a lot of stuff in it about surfing as a cultural phenomenon, but it wasn't enough for me! Also, there could have been more, and more interesting, pictures. So, a mixed review!

[Hayden · Rating 5 out of 5]

The best, most comprehensive book ever written about surfing. The writing is as compelling as the scholarship behind it. An absolute must-read for the surf-obsessed.

[Mike Mulkey · Rating 5 out of 5]

Matt is a former professional surfer who later became the editor of Surfer Magazine and is currently in charge of the Encyclopedia of Surfing History. The History of Surfing is the most comprehensive, well-written chronicle on surfing history I have ever seen, including a remarkable collection of photographs. This book is a must-read for anyone wanting to appreciate how surfing influenced life in California. Well done Matt!

[Leon Hermanson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Looses a star because it is a little California centric, but otherwise your authorative account of the history of surfing! I only managed to finish it, because I got ill and read all day!

[Kuan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Most comprehensive book on surfing out there, makes you also understand how certain surfboards design came to be we now use today

[Jacob Wood · Rating 5 out of 5]

Debunks many common misconceptions and leaves a surfer more grateful for the suffering and rebellious roots which contributed to the culture of the sport and lifestyle that we love so much

[Jon Pinter · Rating 5 out of 5]

an in depth history of surfing

[Matt · Rating 5 out of 5]

So long but so impressive. Super important read if you take surfing and its history seriously, even if it's ridiculous.

[Kamakana · Rating 4 out of 5]

220419: this is one big heavy book. so i propped it up on table, read it at u library, over two weeks. great pictures, mature, balanced history, some of which is to me familiar. family history. only lived in the islands one year, visit every year, but this is not long enough. by secondary if you are serious wave hunter surfer- you are not in school. i never surfed but once, fell off tiny cut in my stomach from fin. enough. cousins surfed sometimes but waimea has not much breaks, you have to go round to the windward side, the north side, of kaua'i, so they mostly played volleyball etc...

the year we lived on oahu, did once or twice go to the north shore, waimea bay (there is a waimea on at least three islands), makaha... island bus, honolulu bus, goes around island though maybe not waianae, for at that time about one dollar something... if you want, yes you can surf your brains out. and then i knew about history of pre-contact hawai'ians developing surfing, missionaries trying to shut it down, surfing culture etc. but by the time there, surfing is big business, competitions, tv, aussies, brazilians, californians... i do not know if surfing ever had prelapsarian eden. grandpa played inter-island tennis at resorts, taught one girl cousin how to golf (practicing getting out of sand traps on the beach in front of the house...) and boys went to university in volleyball, but there was never much talk of surfing round waimea...

so the first part of the book is great for me. talks about how hawai'i dispersed this to the world from 1900s on, names heard of like duke kahanamoku (2 time olympic 100m swimming champion), then as it goes on it gets technical (board design) travel (indonesia) competitive (aussie/california) then a lot of names, personalities, descriptions of breaks, rides, then bigger waves, faster rides, longer breaks... so if you are like, surfer dude, there is a lot here... if not, well it is a big heavy book you can read at the coffee table but not something to read end to end. read or catch waves? no contest man...

[Leo W. · Rating 4 out of 5]

I recommend reading on iPad or incomparable device. Get to enjoy both the great pics and extensive, engaging text.

[Dan Ward · Rating 4 out of 5]

I didn't actually finish this book. My loan from the library expired and I didn't renew. I did find the early history of surfing and the associated characters up until the 70s very interesting. As a very beginner surfer who has only been out a few times it was fun to read about the genesis of the sport from the Hawaiian Islands to the global phenomenon it is now.

[Ross Tibbetts · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent photos and insights. Must have been years of research. Made me feel like I'm not crazy for loving surfing so much. I thought I knew the history of surfing but realized I didn't know jack till I read this book. If you love surfing, pop culture, photography or the ocean in general, get this book.

[Carolina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic read! I love surfing! Mr. Warshaw has put together the best surfing book I've ever read and there's quite a few out there. The pictures are fantastic, but the historical aspect of surfing and how it evolved is second to none. I highly recommend this book! You won't regret it!

[Joe · Rating 4 out of 5]

From a California surfer’s perspective I give it 5/5 but from a non surfer I give it a 3/5. Lots of great information it bay tied together all the lingo that you hear in and out of the line up and in media. It does tend to drag on certain things and is quite a long read.

[Rachael · Rating 5 out of 5]

Coffee Table book with awesome detailed history of surfing from semi-ancient times to Kelly Slater. Very cool.

[Ben Carden · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very in-depth account for the history of surfing. As a European surfer, I would have liked to read more about that as there was only one paragraph on surfing in France!