The Soul Stylists: Sixty Years of Modernism

by Paolo Hewitt, Paul Weller (Introduction)

With the use of personal testimonies of both the famous and the unknown, this book seeks to establish the link between the two key elements of Modernism today—American rhythm and blues and British working-class fashion. It follows the transition of musical styles from London in the late 1950s, with the black American servicemen and their love of bebop, through the sharply dressed Mods of the early 1960s, to the dawning of the skinhead and suedehead movements which provided the musical and stylistic inspirations for 1980s bands such as Madness, The Beat, and The Specials. It also explores Britain's Northern soul scene, the soulboy and the casual, as well as 2001's Mod inheritors—the youth who make up the acid house and hip-hop scene.

Genres: Music, History, Fashion

224 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2001

About the author

Paolo Hewitt was born on July 11, 1958 in Redhill, Surrey, England.

Paolo Hewitt is a former NME journalist and author of over 20 books, including, with Mark Baxter, The Fashion of Football (Mainstream), Oasis... There and Then (1996), Outside Bet (2012) and Casuals: The Story of the Legendary Terrace Fashion (2011)

Reviews

[Michael Greig · Rating 3 out of 5]

More of a collection of quotes and interviews held together with some addendum and adjunct from Hewitt. Suited me as I have a particular interest in British subcultures and men's fashion.

[Diane Vallere · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great book! Initially a library checkout, I tracked down a print copy for my personal library before I was halfway through. It does a great job of placing you at the beginning of modernism, what it was like, how it was a hybrid movement of music and fashion and personal outlook on life.

[Michael Rowley · Rating 5 out of 5]

Soul Stylists

A fantastic read, once I started I couldn’t put it down. A simply brilliant book. We never stop learning ….

[Paul Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

A sartorial history of the working class is not a new concept, and while this is more of a collection of reminiscences than a straightforward social history it is excellently done, with the verve and snappy pacing that is Hewitt's trademark. Of particular interest is the attention given to Casual culture, which is usually written off as a passing fad among football hooligans. Here, it is shown in its true light, as a complex and sophisticated culture, unique for its northern origins and the fact that it had no attached music scene.

There is, however, far more going on in this book than Adidas Samba trainers and Fila trakkie tops. The Mod scene is of course dealt with in detail, as is its transformation into the Smooth and Suedehead scenes, which in turn solidified into Skinhead. The crossover and respect between Rastafarian and Skinhead cultures is dwelt upon too - another rarity and a welcome change from the usual revisionist laziness which simply seeks to pit the two sides against each other. Indeed, the mutual contributions made by black and white working class cultures are one of the themes of this book, from the idolisation of American jazz musicians in post war Soho to the Two Tone movement of the late 70s.

Punk is touched upon only lightly, due to it being a predominantly middle class phenomenon. Instead, the London club scene of the time is examined, with lunchtimes discos popping up all over the place and attracting a bewildering mix of people. The Northern Soul scene also makes welcome appearance, and the accounts of the extraordinary lengths to which competing dj's would go to hide the sources of their imported discs is worth the cover price alone.

So there we are. From post war Soho to Shaun Ryder's curtain haircut - it's a fascinating, intelligent and compelling read. Why on earth you wouldn't buy this book if you have even the vaguest interest in this subject is beyond me.

[Deedee Light · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved this book and the preface by Paul Weller. The Soul Stylist:Six Decades of Modernism, for me, was like is a pair leather soul shoes and a slippery floor to grove on. Hewitt nails it, the origins of Mod and Northern Souler culture and the influence of American black music, reggae's influence on SKA and Skinheads (the original Skins: anti-racist, working class), and the secret circle of people in the know sweating the nights away while the needle touched the record. Hewitt exposes cultures that are rarely explained and so much of it is expressed through the fashion, it's a shame there are no visuals. This is not a passing comment. There is a reason Hewitt and Weller talk about Crombie coats, Harrington jackets, Levis and Fred Perry, as Hewitt says, "Detail is all."

I'd recommend reading this with speakers and an internet connection nearby so you can spend time with every artist and record mentioned. If you're lucky maybe you'll pull out that Dekker or Pioneers '45 that's been sleeve side too long.

[Steve · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book! British street style when it mattered (i.e. right up to the end of casuals)

[Ismail · Rating 3 out of 5]

Really informative.