Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol 1

by John Lloyd Stephens, Frederick Catherwood (illustrator)

Volume 1 of 2-volume set. Classic (1843) exploration of jungles of Yucatan, looking for evidences of Maya civilization. Extensive accounts of 44 Maya sites as well as of Yucatan folkways, manners, dress, ceremonies, amusements—all of which makes this a great travel book. Total in set: 127 engravings. 1 map.

Genres: Travel, History, Nonfiction, Anthropology, Classics, Archaeology, World History

317 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1843

About the author

John Lloyd Stephens was an American explorer, writer, and diplomat. Stephens was a pivotal figure in the rediscovery of Maya civilization throughout Middle America and in the planning of the Panama railroad.

Reviews

[Daren · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fifth catch up review!

John Lloyd Stephens, an American explorer and writer is credited with a lot of discovery related to the Maya in Mexico. This book, in two volumes, describes his second expedition to Mexico in October 1841 and concentrates his efforts in Yucatan, where his previous expedition was cut short due to the illness of one of his companions.

I read the Project Gutenberg version which still contains the many engravings and map of the original publication. I enjoyed the engravings, because as well as Stephens explains what he finds the engravings make it all the clearer. The map wasn't present (maybe in Volume 2), which was annoying.

It is a pretty straight forward explanation Stephens gives. He describes preparations, accommodations and how they live, what they eat. He explains the issues with mosquito's and bedbugs and the like, as well with those people who assist and those who don't, or are untrusting of the foreigners. But most of all he describes the ruins. He explains how the trees and scrub grows very quickly and that a large part of the labour is clearing the trees and scrub even before any excavation can be made.

Mexico is a place I have not visited, so I have only limited knowledge of the Mayan culture. Not dissimilar to the Inca's of Peru though, where I spent some time as a tourist.

Step pyramids were common and large rectangular buildings with highly decorative facades and a massively thick but blank back wall, made up of many small rooms and a flat roofs. While there were plenty of buildings to expose and excavate, relics were fairly scarce. Pottery and sculptures were found, but rarely fully intact.

Appendices to this volume include temperature observations on the trip, statistics of Yucatan, an explanation of the triangular Mayan arch in construction, and a long explanation of Mayan time.

4 stars

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Volume 2 Review

[Uglyoldwitch · Rating 5 out of 5]

It takes a lot for me to give a book five stars. I'd give this one six, if I could. First, however, let me state that this book isn't for everyone. I read it because, as a student of Maya history for 25 years, it's required. I should have read it sooner. It's the true story of two men who traveled through the Maya world in 1840 and brought their information back to the masses. I believe that we care today because of the passion they had for the ruins all those years ago.

After visiting some of the places John Lloyd Stephens writes about, I can honestly say that this book - after 150 years - is still relevant today. Stephens' easy style, his adventurous spirit, and his friendship with Frederick Catherwood (the artist who traveled with him) all made this an extraordinary read. His excitement at seeing the ruins for the first time, his way of describing them without judgment - is something all of us strive for in the archaeology field.

Okay, so his crazy passion for crawling down inside volcanoes was a bit odd. As was his adoration of his "macho", his mule. But when he described a thunderstorm one night - the flashes of light illuminating the ruins around him - I could see it. I was there. It's one hundred and fifty years later, and I was right there with him.

At one point, (I read the complete set of books - 900 pages) I wanted to write both Stephens and "Mr. C" a letter to tell them how much I appreciated what they did and that they captured it - both in their own way - on paper. And then I remembered that they'd both been dead for years. So, these five stars are my fan letter to them both. I want to shake your hand. Thank you for letting me see these exquisite buildings through your eyes. And mostly, I want to write something today that touches another person one hundred and fifty years from now.

[Brenda Clough · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book (and vol. 2) is a classic of its type -- the Victorian travel account. Stephens was in fact the American ambassador to Central America. But because the region was convulsed by revolution he spent a lot of time traveling around in search of someone to submit his credentials to. And, for want of any official duties, he was able to indulge his mania for Mayan ruins. British artist Frederick Catherwood traveled with him and captured some of the most iconic images we have of Mayan bas-reliefs. It is these volumes that convinced archaeologists that the Maya were their own culture, and not Egyptians or something.

I find the exploring-ruins bits far more fascinating than his tedious treks through the countryside, dodging revolutionaries, looking for food or shelter, or eying local maidens. And I am not alone in this; there are 'greatest hits' editions of these books made up of only the archaeological sections. It is also frantically un-PC, and if it bothers you to read casual slurs of persons of color or gender, then you should skip this. However, it is a work of its time and for that alone is invaluable.

[Leonide Martin · Rating 5 out of 5]

John Stevens and Frederick Catherwood's travels in the Maya lands became famous as soon as they were published in the mid-1850s. These travel stories intrigued readers with their detailed descriptions of exotic landscapes and enigmatic people. Stevens (US) was the writer and Catherwood (Great Britan) the illustrator. Together they created books of enduring fascination and brought ancient Maya culture to the attention of the world. This spurred an onslaught of adventurers and explorers who wanted to find ruined cities in tropical jungles, and endure the grueling primitive conditions of travel in undeveloped areas of Mexico and Central America. Stevens writes with wry humor and picturesque detail, capturing innumerable crusty and sinister characters while encountering unexpected kindnesses. Catherwood's drawings are charming and mysterious; the first accurate accounts of many glyphs, monuments and buildings. There are essentially four volumes, two of Central America, Chiapas & Yucatan and two of Yucatan. Each covers their travels to different Maya sites, and all are eminently readable.

[Nancy · Rating 3 out of 5]

I have always wanted to read John Lloyd Stephens' account of his travels through Central America with artist Frederick Catherwood, whose drawings of the Mayan ruins they "rediscovered" and documented have become iconic. This book is sort of a sequel to Stephens and Catherwood's first book, which covered more territory. That expedition was cut short when Catherwood became ill with malaria while investigating the ancient Mayan city of Uxmal. In this book they return to Uxmal, setting up camp once again inside the ruins. But it isn't quite what I expected. Howard Carter's mesmerizing three-volume account of the discovery and opening of the tomb of Tutankhamen has become my touchstone I guess. Sure, Carter had great material to work with, but so does Stephens, and yet there seems throughout this account a lack of excitement or wonder -- it feels listless even at times. Maybe I need to go back and read Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, where it all began...

[Scott Bischke · Rating 2 out of 5]

For me this was a difficult read. Read just like the unedited, free flow journal that it is. Perhaps could serve as the basis for a story about the Yucatan, but as a stand alone it did not serve that purpose for me. Just too confusing, poorly constructed, sometimes not particularly coherent.

[Dan · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a trip back in time, a real-life 1841 travelogue. Stephens and his artist/traveling companion actually discovered Chichen Itza and other Mayan sites. They also made them popular at the time with their best-selling travelogues. I loved this book, especially since I started reading it during my trip to Chichen Itzá. Volume 1 was enough for me. Sometimes Stephens writes with such detail that It becomes mundane. I won’t be continuing to Volume 2.

But even if one volume is enough for you, I recommend buying the edition that includes both volumes. This volume-1-only edition doesn’t include Catherwood’s illustrations, which are both mysterious and intriguing. You can find the best ones through a Google search.



I’m now reading Jungle of Stone: The True Story of Two Men, Their Extraordinary Journey, and the Discovery of the Lost Civilization of the Maya. This is a biographical account of Stephens & Catherwoods’ expeditions. I’m looking forward to comparing these two books.

[Jeffrey Brannen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I thoroughly enjoyed the book. It has a lively pace, with engaging prose descriptions of the various ruins of the Maya civilization. As I read, I tried to put myself in the shoes of one of the first readers. An American or European who, until this point, believed that “true” civilization, as demonstrated by the great works of architecture from antiquity, are exclusively European or Egyptian.

To find the rude natives of North America had a civilization that rivaled Ancient Rome or Alexandria was nearly impossible to imagine. To that audience, this book with its draftsman recordings of the sites would have exploded like a bombshell in the intellectual climate of the mid 1800s. The prevailing theory, for those who were even aware of the ruins, was that ancient Egyptians had built the Central American pyramids. Stephens ably refutes that idea without being argumentative.

Originally published in 1841, the travel journals of John Lloyd Stephens, share his journey to explore and uncover the surprising ruins of the native peoples.

much of the book (necessarily) is taken up with measurements which can be lightly skimmed. If you’ve never been on an archaeological expedition and would love to be one of the first to discover a long lost civilization, this is about as close as it gets.

[Michael (Mike) · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is travel, the old way. I recommend this book for the modern traveler who is serious about chronicling his adventures. While the methods are old, the author's techniques are easily adapted to our modern times with a camera and journal. This is for the traveler who takes the time to meet the people, as opposed to rushing through a series of exhibits and/or cultural sites. Of course this is really only possible when one has the luxury of time. I expect to chronicle as such on my next solo motorcycle ride into Mexico.

(the free kindle edition does not come with the plates/illustrations, so best to by the paper reprint)

[Paul Cornelius · Rating 5 out of 5]

A combination of travel writing and archaeological exploration. Stephens apparently is credited with igniting the interest in Mayan anthropology and archaeology, when he made successive trips to the Yucatan in the 1840s. This book describes events that took place in 1841, and he and his engraver, Frederick Catherwood, primarily take extended studies in the ruins of Uxmal, Tikul, and Kabah in this volume. I find it stunning. Apparently, the ruins had just decayed over the centuries since the Spanish conquest and the Mayan descendants had lost every vestige of their earlier ability to construct a complex civilization. Some of Stephens' "techniques" will sound abhorrent to modern readers. For example taking a crowbar to pry off wooden lentils and stucco and stone facing. But the fact he reveals is that the buildings were collapsing every year. Were the artifacts not saved, the chances Stephens contends are that they would have crumbled soon. The engravings depict pyramids, apartments, and long buildings that are covered by trees and heavy growth, as they had not been entered since the 16th century. Hardship, fever, thirst, and bogs wear down every step. Probably, not too many people are going to find the book(s) interesting, but they have absorbed me. And don't forget to read the appendices, especially the discussion on Mayan calendars and lunar observations. Oh, and just to give an idea of the sense of time in which the volume was written, Stephens notes that Yucatan is in a state of rebellion against the rest of Mexico and has hired war schooners from the Republic of Texas for 8000 per month to help guard Yucatan's seas and ports.

[Dave · Rating 5 out of 5]

A must-read for those looking to travel to Yucatán.
I read this while traveling to and around Merida, Stephens was my guide!
Between his insights and Catherwood’s drawings, the Mayan culture comes to life before your eyes!
All of the places he visits are still there 150 years later.
Not to mention, it’s his writings in this very book that revealed the Mayan world to modern people.
Before he visited the ancient sites, that Mexico is now charging a handsome fee to visit, locals were freely mining the ruins for cut stones in order to sell!

Mexico owes a great debt to the works of these two gentlemen who did the leg work and the thinking to make the exploits detailed in this book happen.

It’s one of the best adventure books I’ve read simply for the impact it’s had on a modern nation!


Furthermore, you’ll get a lot more info about the Mayan ruins in Yucatán from this book than you will get at the actual sites!

[Persephone Abbott · Rating 4 out of 5]

Definitely more of a great read when in the Yucatan. I was not in the Yucatan, however, at the time of reading this classic tale of intrepid Victorian travellers, nor have I ever been in the the Yucatan. And yes, the account is subjective to 19th century expectations, yet has that Indiana Jones feel about it, funnily enough, I can't locate online any of the original daguerreotypes that the explorers took of their travels. But this suite of books (volume one and two) should thoroughly to be recommended when in the Yucatan, just be forewarned that it is now rumored that, in general, cocoa bean currency is no longer accepted.

[brightredglow · Rating 4 out of 5]

More readable than I had expected. There are some areas that give pause but overall, I found John Lloyd Stephens an empathetic observer and chronicler.

[Lee Paris · Rating 4 out of 5]

I had the good fortune to visit Uxmal and Palenque in 2015 and Quirigua and Copan in January of 2017 - all are sites visited by Stephens and his artist companion Frederick Catherwood in the 1830s. This book is highly recommended by the Maya archaeologist who conducted the tours. Stephens has a very unadorned style of writing which no doubt explains the popularity of the book since 1841. I have been told that it was second only to the Bible in sales when first published and I can certainly understand the romance of "lost" cities and vanished civilizations for the American public in the 19th century and right to the present. Stephens has a very sensible approach to the ruins and his point of view has been substantiated by subsequent scholars. Although he could not read the glyphs he was correct when he stated that likely they were accounts of the history of the people who carved them. He also was correct when he surmised that the buildings and sculptures were created by the people in the region and owed nothing to the Chinese, Egyptians or East Indians. He also observed that the decay was more likely to be caused by environmental factors than remote antiquity. At one point he observes the close physical resemblance between a Maya he encounters and the carved face on a relief. Anyone who reads this must stand in awe of the physical stamina of both men as they confront heat, torrential rainfall, mountainous terrain and above all the mosquitoes. Stephens is also fully aware of the debt he owes to his beasts of burden - the horses and mules, and is quick to condemn any mistreatment he witnesses. The provision of adequate food for his animals is a constant theme. Sadly, Stephens did not long survive his travels; no doubt succumbing to some pathogen acquired during this trek. My only criticism is that for my taste too many pages are devoted to the political turmoil plaguing Guatemala, but it's understandable that given his official credentials he would feel obliged to fully report on the violence and civil unrest.

[Jim · Rating 5 out of 5]

I first read this book back in 1975 prior to my first visit to Mexico. While it is not so good as the same author's Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, John Lloyd Stephens still maintains his keen sense of observation and excellent judgment: He knew a hundred years early that the Maya built their own pyramids and had a written language that went well beyond mere calendrical observations.

Most of this volume is taken up with Stephens and Catherwood in Merida, the capital of Yucatan, followed by the Maya ruins at Uxmal in the Puuc Hills. Possibly because the rainy season went on longer that year, both Stephens and Catherwood kept coming down with fevers. Was it because they pitched camp in the dampness of the so-called Governor's Palace in Uxmal?

In any case, Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol 1 is well worth reading. Along with its predecessor, it almost singlehandedly created the field of Pre-Columbian Archeology.

[Erik Graff · Rating 5 out of 5]

Stephens two books about his early nineteenth century travels to the Yucatan are much cited in studies of the Maya, his speculations about their civilization and Catherwood's illustrations of their monuments and inscriptions being epochal for their accuracy and thoroughness. Planning a trip to what was still the territory of Quintana Roo (NE Yucatan), I read up on the area ahead of time, works by Thompson and Coe leading me to Stephens' groundbreaking chronicle. Despite its age, the narrative read well, conveying much of the excitement of their adventures in what was then still a region contested between the Republics of Texas and Mexico (a contestation, incidentally, inherited by the USA and only resolved under Franklin Roosevelt's adminstration upon negotiations with the Cardenas government).

[Evan Albright · Rating 5 out of 5]

BOOKS ABOUT YUCATÁN: The best book of any kind about the Yucatán Peninsula, and it's more than 150 years old. This is the book that made the Maya ruins of the region famous to the world. John Lloyd Stephens, a lawyer who found fame as a writer, wrote a series of travel books, including two about his travels in Central America and Mexico. I think his earlier volume, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatán, is superior to this later volume, but both are probably the most perfect travelogues ever written, filled with history, local culture, social observation, and wit and charm. The drawings by Frederick Catherwood are stunning, although this edition, a cheap paperback version, skimped on the quality of the graphics. It's worth it to search the Internet for original editions and view the illustrations closer to how they were originally presented in the 1840s.

[Jill · Rating 3 out of 5]

I picked this up years ago after a trip to Cancun. I recently reread excerpts while I was in Cancun. He provides a great history of the area/ region of Mexico. I enjoyed hearing about the pirate hideaways in the area like Cozumel and Isla Mujeras and reading that "Kankun" was just a den of "moschitos". Certainly takes you somewhere other than the lounge chair at your beachside resort.

[Dale · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful first-hand TRUE account of the discovery of Mayan ruins. If you haven't seen the ruins, you owe yourself an exciting trip. Book is excellent, perhaps a tad bit dry, but really tells you the story.

[Richie · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good olde-fashioned rollicking picaresque colonialist travelogue. Like A Handful of Dust, but real.

[Tina · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a classic memoir written by one of the first Englishmen to visit the Mayan ruins. It's an enjoyable read, and will especially interest anyone who has traveled in the region.

[Rusty · Rating 5 out of 5]

The illustrations by the actual explorers alone make this 5 stars.

[Dan G · Rating 5 out of 5]

A romantic exploration of the land of the Maya dating from the mid-19th century. Still well worth reading.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read the book, then made the trip to the Yucatan and used the book as a guide. Okay, not really as a guide but it was fun to use as a resource.

[Richie · Rating 1 out of 5]

Couldn't finish this book. Too much detail in artifacts not enough momemtum to hold my attention. Not quite what I was expecting.

[Janie Buck]

At times, a very difficult read. But my love for all things Mexican encouraged me to finish it.

[Alejandro · Rating 5 out of 5]

Travel writing at its best; illustrations by Catherwood unequal.
Must read for those interested in Mayan culture.