I guess after two pretty amazing books, it was a bit of optimistic of me to expect my run of good reading to stretch to three. I can devour a good book on food lit - work and other commitments notwithstanding - over a couple of days. The fact that it took me more than a week to plough through this book isn't a good sign.
On the face of it, Horsemen of the Esophagus has everything going for it - I mean, a behind the scenes look at the competitive eating circuit, written by a guy named by the Columbia Journalism Review as one of the "Ten Young Writers on the Rise"? Taking a kindly view of the book, one might say that Fagone did his best to spin 300 pages out of limited material. He admits this himself in Chapter 4, where he recounts the trip that he and Coondog O'Karma made to Japan to find out the secret to the great Kobayashi's eating success. But Kobayashi declines an interview and Fagone, attempts to pull a Rumpelstiltskin and spin a tale of gold out of straw (he fails). And so we read about how Fagone and Coondog drive each other up the wall in their tiny motel room in Japan, how frustrated Fagone is with his failed attempts to meet with Kobayashi, their meeting with Yuko, a Japanese fan of competitive eater Yukihiro Iteya (it's not even a Kobayashi fan they meet with) and Coondog's attempt to challenge some Japanese to a sushi eating contest. As Fagone admits, "[t]his is supposed to be the promised land of competitive eating, and all we can find is a sad little girl with a sad little photo album". By the time Kobayashi finally relents and agrees to meet up, it's too late. The reader is already exhausted from reading Fagone's pointless and painful account of....nothing. Not that Fagone rewards the reader for his patience; Kobayashi doesn't say very much so even the supposed highlight of the section falls flat.
Taking a less sympathetic view of the book, I'd say that Fagone scammed his publisher into thinking he had viable material for a book when he didn't; and the publisher, with a tightly written blurb and a few choice quotes ("Absolutely superb. In many ways, [Fagone] is like the young Tom Wolfe - he wants to take you somewhere you wouldn't normally go, and then, somehow, with tremendous verve, use it to explain the state of the world. He succeeds brilliantly. - Sunday Telegraph), scammed the reading public into thinking this would be a great read. I'm wondering at what point this Ponzi scheme will come crashing down.
I did pick up a couple of nuggets along the way. I now know that the competitive eating landscape is much more vast than I had initially envisioned. Beyond the annual July 4 Nathan's hotdog eating contest, I learned about the insane production that is the Philadelphia Wing Bowl; I learned that there were matzo ball eating contests (they sponge up water and turn your gut into a cement mixer, apparently), oyster eating contests, shoofly pie contests in Pennsylvania (as shoofly pie is apparently an Amish delicacy), etc. I learned that there are competitive eaters other than Takeru Kobayashi. I also learned never to trust the Sunday Telegraph. Or at the very least, their book reviewer.