Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone

by Reinhold Messner, Tim Carruthers (Translator)

Messner is one of the most famous mountaineers of our time Annapurna represents a milestone in climbing history as the first 8,000-meter peak ever climbed The only complete mountaineering history of Annapurna On June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog stood on the narrow sickle glacier of Annapurna (8,091m) in the Himalaya. With that first ascent of Annapurna, Herzog crossed the magic border-the Death Zone-of 8,000 meters. The ascent did not go undisputed. During the 50 years since Herzog’s ascent, climbing in the highest mountains of the world has changed and developed profoundly. Today it is possible to climb the notorious Annapurna even on the most demanding routes and to survive in the “Death Zone” beyond 8,000 meters. 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone begins with the thrilling story of the first ascent and goes on to highlight the history of the most exciting and significant ascents of the mountain, including Messner’s own successful first ascent of the difficult Northwest Face.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Mountaineering, Climbing, History, Adventure

204 pages, Hardcover

First published January 10, 2000

About the author

Reinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944) is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from South Tyrol, often cited as the greatest mountain climber of all time. He is renowned for making the first solo ascents of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level). He is the author of at least 63 books (in German, 1970–2006), many of which have been translated into other languages.

Reviews

[Antje · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reinhold Messner erzählt uns in diesem Buch von fünf Annapurna-Expeditionen (1950, 1970, 1984, 1985 und 1988), wobei mich die abenteuerliche Erstbesteigung von Maurice Herzog und Louis Lachenal am meisten fesselte, insbesondere ihr physisch wie psychisch aufreibender Abstieg. Gerade an diesem wird wieder deutlich, dass zu einem erfolgreichen Gipfelsieg ebenso der geglückte Abstieg gehört. Dieser wäre ohne die selbstlose Hilfe von Gaston Rébuffat und Lionel Terray unmöglich gewesen. Sie hätten mehr als einen Teil ihrer Gliedmaßen eingebüßt.
Dieses Wechselspiel von Konkurrenz und Kameradschaft am Berg beeindruckt mich immer wieder aufs Neue. Nicht zu vergessen, das Vermögen der Unwirtlichkeit dieser Gegend, Minusgraden, Stürmen, Sauerstoffmangel, Schlaflosigkeit und Durst zu trotzen.

[Jayd · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good read.. would like to read Maurice Herzog’s book and Bonnington’s now. A good overview of the mountain and some of its early major new routes

[Nad · Rating 5 out of 5]

The first successful summit of Annapurna was made by Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal, 1950 as part of an all French team. What ensued after the expedition was a controversy surrounding the decision making of the team leader (Herzog) and other conspiracies against him. Messner dissects the epic & heroic tale of the summit of the first 8000er ever and gives his personal opinions regarding the controversy and some critical takes as well. He supports Herzog and validates him with the title of 'Monsieur Annapurna' for his once in a lifetime adventure that inspired a new era in high altitude mountaineering. Also chronicled in the book are some more expeditions via the new routes to the Annapurna summit, namely 1970 South Face, 1984 up East Ridge, 1985 Northwest Face & 1986 West/Northwest Face. Many more important facts, statistics are also cited.

[Petra Kovář · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting topic, not very well handled.

[julia · Rating 3 out of 5]

3,5
szybki i zwięzły opis historyczny wejść na Annapurnę I

[Tom · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this as a follow-up to Krakauer's _Into Thin Air_, and because I had childhood fantasies (since outgrown for various sane reasons) about high-altitude mountaineering.

Messner's prose is a bit stilted, but his accounts of Annapurna expeditions are intermittently quite exciting, and such a famous mountaineer is definitely worth reading on the subject.

The photographs are absolutely stunning. I'd recommend the book simply on the basis of the photos, even if you don't read a single word of text.