I am attracted to classical menswear since early on. It even might have been started in primary school. Back then I would often go to the regional library to pick up books that I wanted to read and occasionally even read.
There were some books that I picked up quite often, this was one of them.
Now years later I started my sartorial journey, trusting that my grow has stopped.
So I was amazed that back at the library of my childhood, this book was out to sell.
Now going throw the pages I find some things that I had to pay money on to learn through experience.
On one hand I am quite happy to start my journey with an already quite large knowledge of the classical style, on the other hand, rules such as in this book often suit only those you already have the complete wardrobe and give mainly directions how this wardrobe might look like.
The book itself is quite conservative and almost like caricature to read today. Many rules were probably outdated already at the time and descriptions on what groups of people wear what, whether artists or Americans often seems to be out of a cartoon.
However this comments are sometimes not without the irony that you find in some nationalism of the 19. or early 20. century and one must appreciate that Roetzel gets the tendencies right if he makes prognoses.
So should you read this book:
Probably yes, since it is really a good encyclopedia.
You probably have heard of the Picasso-quote Picasso: “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist” and this is exactly how to read this book.
The inventions from rule-breaking the Italian brought into mensstyle are even to this day from an appreciation of the british roots of the style.
The degeneration of style is not only apparent in the fact that we have replaced the trench coat with the plastic poncho, but also if you look in the parliaments.
The epidemic of casualization is troublesome.
Politicians are throwing away the ties, wearing sloppy suits and sometimes it might even seem their project is too look not too good.
However it is an interesting insight that in all they're trying to wear casual-outfits they don't know how. So for example you see them with the same dress shirts that were invented for wearing ties or bowties and nobody seems to get the idea to choose a bottom-down-collar or an Cooper-collar, more casual collars that are suitable to wear without a tie.
They probably would if they read Roetzel.
If you look at mid-century politicians even from America, they known how to dress down. Now this seems like a lost art. Instead people wear dress-shirt as a simple reminder that they dress according to the formal situation.
But without fitting suit, without tie, without style this is just a reminder: the uncanny valley of style.
This is sad since buying high-quality items is easier than ever. You can find even Luxury-suits like Brioni or Kiton suits under 200 Euro if you search patient. We won this whole new way of shopping that is if I am not missing something no topic of Roetzels book.
And there is so much values in a proper classical wardrobe.
The value of beauty is only the most obvious, but also craftsmanship, taste, sustainability.
Because yes a good suit can be worn for years like a good shoe.
A good shoe can with good care worn as long that the cost per wear is under the costs of a fast-fashion one.
These are values we should reconquer today.
We need them to answer the climate crisis.
And to the left-wing people: The suit is not a sign of capitalism, a good suit was largely egalitarian for a long time, such look to Italy, it was a investion like a good bike today.
Capitalism replaced it with fast-fashion.
Bring the suit back.
bring back the beauty and craftsmanship.
Read Roetzel to learn it.