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272 pages, Hardcover
First published February 28, 2012
“What was the purpose of your visit to Juárez?” I was asked. The agent seemed amazed I’d even been there. “I just wanted to check it out,” I replied. “I find it attractive.”
‘As YouTube can confirm, the Indios won the promotion that sent la gente of Ciudad Juárez into the streets—.’
‘Substandard soccer is not what drew me to this city. I’m not invested in the survival or descent of the Indios. I’ve crossed the border, above all, for the city itself. It may sound morbid, but … all those murders! Carjackings are way up, too. Kidnappings and extortions have closed so many Juárez businesses that the central shopping district can look like the set of a shuttered Broadway play. I am scared to be here, I’ll admit. But I was sort of homeless when I decided to move down. I’d figured all the violence had at least made the city a cheap place to rent an apartment, which was indeed the case. I don’t know what I will find during my time here, along La Frontera. I don’t even know what I’m looking for, really. I know only that I want to look. Juárez touches Texas, yet in some ways it doesn’t even seem to be on the map. Most stories coming out of the border, to my ears, make Juárez sound like some exotic other, some Kabul. Playboy magazine published a feature about life in El Paso, “at the edge of the abyss.” Okay. Interesting enough. But what’s it like in the abyss?’
‘—the bus stopped in Chihuahua city at Carnitas el Entronque, a roadside vendor of deep-fried everything. Pig, cow, chicken, and who knows what else bubbled in giant vats of brown oil. Tripe—cow intestines—bobbed to the top of the vats, poked back into the oil by wooden paddles the size of boat oars. When the flesh crackled with crispness, workers used giant metal tongs to pull the meats from the vats. These body parts were served still oozing hot oil. No quiero, gracias. No way, Jose.’
‘But I also saw women carrying babies in their arms. You have to believe in the future to have a baby, right? I lunched on a burrito con chile colorado and a bottle of Mexican Coca-Cola purchased from a storefront no wider than a closet. I talked to people, and they were nice. A man suggested the best neighborhoods to live in. A woman shared general guidelines: “Just don’t do anything stupid and you’ll be fine—I spied another baby, then another one, and still one more. The longer I hung out, the more I relaxed. This place isn’t so bad. I knew people were being slaughtered here, and that more than a few of the murders had occurred right in El Centro. Yet it wasn’t as if life had stopped. The city seemed kind of normal, actually, in a Mexican way.’
‘Even within cities, neighborhoods split into a yin-yang of beauty versus utility. Monterrey is the yin of El Norte—The trip to Monterrey has been eye-opening. A pleasant discovery. It’s hard to believe the two cities are part of the same country. Marco loves Monterrey. I love it, too. The Rayados and the city they represent are Mexico at its best. The Indios can’t help but embody the country at its worst. That yin and yang.’
‘I MISS MIAMI immediately—a woman who works in sales, kisses me on the cheek and declares my return un milagro, a miracle.’
‘When I want action I take my wife and kids to Disneyland and that’s it, brother.’