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Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High
Covers character, psychological training, physical training, strength, endurance, nutrition, clothing, gear, wilderness skills, partnering, and bivouacs.
240 pages, Paperback
First published August 31, 1999
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Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews
February 4, 2017
Worth reading even if you're not an alpinist :)
July 19, 2020
Excellent primer on mindset, training, nutrition and the factors that lead to successfully surviving alpinist journeys. I definitely know a lot more about it all than I did before, and can prepare more appropriately.
He recommends 5 strength training exercises :
For power, focus on lat pulls, standing finger curls, bent-over dumbbell rows, leg presses, and, occasionally, standing calf raises. Though he says climbing is best training otherwise.
He also talks extensively about clothing and gear. One thing I found surprising was that protein bars are not recommended, instead glucose gels and plenty of water, and possibly some oil for long outings. He recommends 5-6 litres of water per day, which includes possibly frequent stops to melt water but they are worth it since having enough hydration drastically improves performance. A 3% dehydration of muscles leads to a 10% performance decline !
A lot of things he cited from his recommended reading list, which is extensive.
He recommends 5 strength training exercises :
For power, focus on lat pulls, standing finger curls, bent-over dumbbell rows, leg presses, and, occasionally, standing calf raises. Though he says climbing is best training otherwise.
He also talks extensively about clothing and gear. One thing I found surprising was that protein bars are not recommended, instead glucose gels and plenty of water, and possibly some oil for long outings. He recommends 5-6 litres of water per day, which includes possibly frequent stops to melt water but they are worth it since having enough hydration drastically improves performance. A 3% dehydration of muscles leads to a 10% performance decline !
A lot of things he cited from his recommended reading list, which is extensive.
October 17, 2017
“Alpine climbing is unsafe and no rationalizations can change that. It’s a game of survival. Dying, or even getting hurt, means you lost. ... It is about your friends dying up in the clouds. Swept away by avalanches or cowering under a volley of stones. Perhaps freezing to death alone at the bottom of a deep, dark crevasse. Or just sitting down to take a rest and never getting up again—taking the longest fall, where the sky is rose and the mountains have never been as beautiful as they are today.”
June 1, 2022
Toca la mayoría de temas importantes relacionados con el alpinismo de manera superficial. Puede que suene altivo, pero no me ha enseñado nada que no supiese...
Considero que es un libro ideal para gente que se esté iniciando en el mundo del alpinismo o de la escalada clásica.
Considero que es un libro ideal para gente que se esté iniciando en el mundo del alpinismo o de la escalada clásica.
June 18, 2017
With all this alpine knowledge i'm now a qualified wannabee. Maybe i'll just stock up on energy gels and be good to climb in Alaska, right?
January 20, 2018
Another essential book for pushing the adventure envelope.
April 30, 2020
Read this book before summiting Mt. Rainier. Damn that was hard. Tony McLean Brown www.HappyGuidetoaShortLife.com
May 17, 2025
Inspiration, thoughtful. Helped me get out of a rut.
March 21, 2007
Mark Twight is a madman. Pure and simple. He spends half of this book detailing training and diet regimines and the other half of the book subtley spraying about all the insane "light & fast" style alpine ascents he's done. He writes with a bit of an "I'm way more bad-ass than you no matter what you've done" attitude that can get a little bit irritating until you realize that he's pretty much right. Once you get past the somewhat haughty delivery the book offers a lot of insights as to why Twight is at the top of the alpine climbing game and why he's lived to tell about it.
Basically the book is light on super specific "how to" style training insight, and kind of light on the "cool climbing story" factor, but it's got enough of both styles of content to make it a good read. but only if you're into the self abuse that alpine climbing requres.
I think this makes sense...Errr...I think.
Basically the book is light on super specific "how to" style training insight, and kind of light on the "cool climbing story" factor, but it's got enough of both styles of content to make it a good read. but only if you're into the self abuse that alpine climbing requres.
I think this makes sense...Errr...I think.
November 26, 2012
Though some of the gear suggestions are starting to become dated this book presents far more material around alpine climbing at the extreme end. There are plenty of pieces of information that can be applied to the amateur alpinist around training and being successful.
Some readers have commented that the book is about Twight's gnarly ascents, but I would say that each one he picked goes directly to a point he is making about gear or training. Often he would have to back out of a climb because of weather but that is the point. When you are going fast and light, bailing has to be near the top of the option list always! This is how you stay alive for another ascent. If you let your ego rule, you wont live through the crucible of your learning years. I appreciated Twight's reiteration that failure on a route was to die.
Now to find some of the books that are mentioned in the suggested reading.
Some readers have commented that the book is about Twight's gnarly ascents, but I would say that each one he picked goes directly to a point he is making about gear or training. Often he would have to back out of a climb because of weather but that is the point. When you are going fast and light, bailing has to be near the top of the option list always! This is how you stay alive for another ascent. If you let your ego rule, you wont live through the crucible of your learning years. I appreciated Twight's reiteration that failure on a route was to die.
Now to find some of the books that are mentioned in the suggested reading.
May 10, 2021
Still good to read, despite it being over 20 years since the first publication. A lot of the information about equipment is now outdated. The finer details of wrist leashes for example, or how to optimally modify plastic boots. The timeless sort of information on attitude and choosing partners for example was still good reading, although a lot of the points made in the book are probably less groundbreaking now verses when the book was released.
The book loses a star due to the training and nutrition section containing absolutetly no references, despite numerous statements starting with 'research shows...' or similar. Without any references I was forced to disregard the entire chapter as it was imposible to judge how reliable the information was for myself, particularly given the age of the book.
The book loses a star due to the training and nutrition section containing absolutetly no references, despite numerous statements starting with 'research shows...' or similar. Without any references I was forced to disregard the entire chapter as it was imposible to judge how reliable the information was for myself, particularly given the age of the book.
January 31, 2025
Twight advocates for a fast and light approach to climbing and introduces radical (at the time) ideas for alpinism. He explains how to optimize the physical, mental, and nutritional side of performance. Though, many of his nutritional aren't particularly evidence based.
The writing style is accessible and provides a refreshing change from textbooks etc, but sometimes, reads like how I would imagine David Goggins to speak - with a 'I am a badman' vibe.
The most interesting part of the book was not climbing related, but some lessons on reflecting upon your own mistakes and maintaining perspective on life in between your goals/objectives.
Despite having zero aspiration to climb anything remotely as technical as Twight, the book was engaging enough to read through in one push.
The writing style is accessible and provides a refreshing change from textbooks etc, but sometimes, reads like how I would imagine David Goggins to speak - with a 'I am a badman' vibe.
The most interesting part of the book was not climbing related, but some lessons on reflecting upon your own mistakes and maintaining perspective on life in between your goals/objectives.
Despite having zero aspiration to climb anything remotely as technical as Twight, the book was engaging enough to read through in one push.
May 18, 2014
Obviously a mega-classic when it comes to extreme alpine climbing. Great handbook, packed full of good pro-tips, stories, and info. One tip in particular came in very handy soon after reading it - if you eat high-fat foods, your body turns up the heat right away, not only once it burns the food. This is useful when your morning pre-dawn bushwhack through fog gets cliffed out and you have to sit in your backpack on your rope to stay warm for a couple hours until it gets light...
Note that after reading this book I have done much less "extreme alpinism," so it's not really a motivator... but if you want to do it, this book will help with the how.
Note that after reading this book I have done much less "extreme alpinism," so it's not really a motivator... but if you want to do it, this book will help with the how.
September 24, 2008
Awesome. It taught me to embrace my inner rage. Yay.
Serious discussions on preparation, technique and motivation. Good advice for those seeking to shave time or become more efficient in many facets of climbing; excellent starting point for those looking to do serious training. Again, it's a starting point; not the alpha and omega, but a great starting point nonetheless.
Serious discussions on preparation, technique and motivation. Good advice for those seeking to shave time or become more efficient in many facets of climbing; excellent starting point for those looking to do serious training. Again, it's a starting point; not the alpha and omega, but a great starting point nonetheless.
June 9, 2011
Full of good (if somewhat dated in some cases) tips regarding gear and strategies in pursuit of ever lighter and faster climbing at the limits of alpinism. Most climbers will find good take away pointers and ideas whether climbing at MFT's level or not.
A good starting point if you're into this particular form of self inflicted suffering.
A good starting point if you're into this particular form of self inflicted suffering.
April 16, 2014
Though dated, and superseded, in some respects this still contains the nuggets of how you should be going about alpinism in the 21st Century. I'd suggest you read this, and then read Steve House "Training for the New Alpinism" (in that order) if you're in anyway serious about trying to become a good alpinist.
A true classic.
A true classic.
December 7, 2011
'Extreme Alpinism' is one of just a few how-to books out there written about alpine climbing. Its an intense, interesting, and informative read even if your climbing goals are more modest than free-soloing sheer ice walls as Twight has.
May 14, 2012
Great insight into what it takes to do single push alpine climbs. Most interesting were the sections on physical fitness, nutrition and how the body responds to stress, deprivation and being on the edge for days on end.
February 8, 2013
You can't beat Twight's blunt and honest advice if you have any interest in this sort of thing. It is a little dated with brand and product specific info that doesn't always apply anymore. Still a must have for light and fast alpine climbers.
December 30, 2007
again, focused on climbing, and if thats your gig, i trust these authors. if your just looking for a book on working out, there is alot of solid info on functional strength.
June 9, 2008
Great and inspiring book for climbers, not really much in it for non-climbers.
Read
June 15, 2009If you want to learn how to really train to the peak of your performance this is the book for you.
January 13, 2011
Great book covering all you need to know about alpine climbing - training, gear, clothing, food etc. Well written and interesting to read.
December 19, 2011
very inspiring. Twighr extreme is THE exreme mountaineering. I never went that far but i strongly believe that extreme is a subjective word: each of us has her/his own extreme.
February 16, 2015
A true classic of alpinist literature. A must-read for anyone who wants to become serious climber.
July 12, 2012
An absolute nutter
Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews