The definitive story of the extraordinary and surprising success of English wine - and the people who transformed our reputation on the global stage from that of a joke to world-class in 30 years.
From an amateur affair made by retirees to a multi-million-pound industry with quality to rival Champagne, the rise of English wine has been one of the more unexpected wine stories of the past 30 years. In this illuminating and accessible account, award-winning drinks writer Henry Jeffreys takes you behind the scenes of the English wine revolution. It's a story about changing climate and technology but most of all it's about men and women with vision, determination and more than a little bloody-mindedness. From secretive billionaires to the single mother farming a couple of hectares in Kent, these are the people making wine in a cold climate.
Great read for anybody interested in English wine, or maybe just wine in general. More about the characters involved and the wines they produce, not technical East reading and enjoyable
wide ranging survey of the English Wine Industry by a Drink Writer – proceeding largely chronologically (starting with a quick historical survey and then a chapter on the 1970s-1990s; finishing with a couple of chapter looking to the near and medium term future) but also looking more thematically (for example chapters on: the Charmat controversy centred around a Norfolk vineyard; the large scale mass producers; natural wine production; organic grape growing; different types of grape; the growing Essex clay vineyards; the Tourism angle).
Throughout there is background on wine making techniques, climate, grapes etc. and the impact they have on the wines taste/appearance etc. which is at about the right level of detail for an interested (but not obsessed) reader – a balance which this book struck better than many non-fiction books. There is also (as the subtitle suggests) lots of detail on the personalities involved and this part can get a little hard to either follow or really care about – while the sniping between some of the personalities can be amusing there are I found far too many characters to really be able to identify them (not helped by many moving between wine producers).
The chapters that particularly interested me given my love of high quality sparkling wines and which also prompted my purchase given I had bought it as a Christmas present to accompany other presents (a Nyetimber presentation box and a tour of Ridgeview) were one each on the three pioneering titans – Nyetimber, Ridgeview and Chapeldown and their individual approaches and histories and the way in which they deliberately set out to follow Champagne style grapes and techniques but better (which for me explained why I find English Sparkling Wines so much better than say Prosecco or Cava).
Overall this made a very diverting Christmas Day read, although I must confess for all my love of English sparkling wine I accompanied it with a Bio-organic Lanson.
I will however mark the New Year (and this review was after I “closed the books” for 2023 and so will be posted in 2024) with some Nyetimber Classic Cuvee (their entry level but still excellent wine).
An interesting book highlighting the issues that English wine faces as its challenging other more established regions in Europe for customers.
The weather can help and the world gets warmer and someday it is thought that vineyards in Kent and Sussex could make very good still wine. Franceb (Burgandy) beware.
Brexit hasn't helped the U K wine industry and it is interesting where more investment in the U K is coming from.
You dont have to be a wine lover to read the book, but it helps
Witty, extremely informative and grappling well with the challenge of providing an overview of the English wine industry, this Is a fascinating read. Wine making is hard to do well, and like all farming, perilously weather dependent. And yet it attracts a lot of people. He does well to tell many of their stories.
One of the best non-fiction books I have ever read, the enthusiasm and expertise that Jeffreys exudes on every page a lesson to anyone looking to cover a topic properly. This would appeal to anyone interested in wine, whether a relative rookie or someone steeped in wine and viticulture. Savoured every page and recommending at every turn.
Decent review of the industry in England. Learned a lot, and enjoyed learning more about this wine location. Too bad I did not have a wine to sip while reading, as it did kind of make me want to sample what they were describing!