"I was wandering in the market when a policeman stopped and gazed at me intently. Why? Perhaps he only wondered from what part of Thibet (sic) I might hail, but it was better to be prepared for the worst. A new battle was to fought, and I began it, my heart beating rather quickly, but brave as usual. I chose, amongst the things for sale, an aluminum saucepan, and began to bargain for it with that ridiculous obstinacy shown by the people of the half-wild tribes of the borderland. I offered an absurd price and talked nonsense in a loud voice, hardly stopping to breathe. People around the booths began to laugh and exchange jokes about me. The cowmen and women of the northern solitudes are a habitual subject of mockery for the more civilized people of Lhasa.
"Ah!" said the merchant, laughing, and yet irritated by my continuous twaddle, "you are a true dokpa, there can be no doubt of that!" And all present ridiculed the stupid woman who knew nothing besides her cattle and the grass of the desert. The policeman passed on, amused like everybody else.
I bought the saucepan, and, as I feared being followed, I compelled myself to loiter about the market, playing a comedy of admiration and stupidity before the ugliest and cheapest goods. Then my good luck caused me to fall in with a group of true dokpas. I began to talk with them in their own dialect. I had lived in their country some years ago. I spoke of places and men known to them, and they were convinced that I was born in a neighboring tribe. I have no doubt that, with the quickness of imagination that is peculiar to them, they would, next day, have sworn in all sincerity that they had known me for a long time."
My Journey to Lhasa is the incredible account of a French woman's travels around Tibet and to Lhasa, where she lived for two months in sight of Portola.
I've also read Out of This World by Lowell Thomas, an American and his son who legally visited Tibet and the Dali Lama in the 1950's. The difference here is that Alexandra David-Neel visited illegally, disguised as a Tibetan and this was in 1923!
Having studied Tibetan for some years, she already knew the language and had previously lived in several temples and caves as a monk. Those stories are in another book, which I would love to read.
I really enjoyed reading her experiences with the peoples of the land, trying to keep her disguise undiscovered. She lived as the people did and ate what they ate. She didn't have horses loaded with bags and porters to carry all her necessities. She carried all she needed wrapped securely under her dress.
Alexandra David-Neel is a first rate explorer and it's a shame that her story is hardly known.