WARNING: "ranty" review ahead. Stop reading if you are easily annoyed/insulted, or if you drink instant coffee; go find a black sharpie and dip it in hot water instead. I assure you it tastes better.
I am often taken aback by the degree of apathy some people display regarding their coffee choices. For being such a popular drink (and the world's 2nd most traded commodity, after crude oil) its place in the long, daily train of consumer considerations ranks between: paper vs. plastic, Sunoco vs. Shell, Dasani vs. Evian, ballpoint vs. rollerball, Kleenex vs. Puffs, to go out and vote, or not. And this, fellow reader, is very telling...
But before you roll your eyes and accuse me of being a coffee snob, please ask yourself the following: when you go to a bar, do you just ask for any beer? Or when you go to the butcher, will any choice of meat do? How about cheese? Do you care if it's Muenster or Swiss or American that goes in your Sandwich? Maybe you don't care if it's bottled blue cheese on your pasta? If this sounds like you, please stop. If it's not, then why is it OK to behave that way towards coffee? Do you know where it comes from or the process by which it ultimately ended in you cup?
For a culture that places so high a premium on individual expression and freedom, I find that very little of it is exercised when it comes to coffee. The latitudes here seem to straddle the all too familiar choices of Dunkin's or Starbucks or Wawa or worse, the many flavors of creamer that "smooth things out". Maybe Folgers or Maxwell House for the value conscious. But that's about it.
Ok. Fine. These are all completely safe choices, but my point is that as a worldly consumer one can do much better than the pedestrian options listed previously. Popular American coffee culture is, by and large, surprisingly insular despite being deeply entrenched in the DNA of an axis of dissemination of all things "trendy" and innovative.
Now, I am not saying one should start shelling out a fortune for specialty coffee and start studying the different methods and ratios and blends with the zeal of a sommelier (nor am I suggesting you start wearing skinny jeans, tattooing yourself or piercing your various appendages), but it is entirely within the province of the average American to elevate their relationship with coffee, and by extension their view of coffee as a complex commodity, to places beyond the mundane, insipid, pre-packaged, just-get-me-through-the-day status it currently holds. In other words, coffee can be more than just warm caffeine. And all it takes is very little effort.
For my part, I'd like to think that I have been successful in re-wiring my friends and co-workers to start appreciating the subtleties in coffee and for introducing them to brewing practices that can turn a chore into a short moment of contemplative office Zen. It is also quite rewarding when I sneak in a new single origin coffee without warning, and watch them sip once, knit their eyebrows in a bit puzzlement, sip twice, and then ask me, "hey, where is this one from? Tastes Kenyan!" Yes, not all coffee tastes the same.
This book is, in a sense, about the guys that are trying to accomplish the above, but in a massive scale. It is about small, regional roasters, about coffee farmers in places long exploited by multinationals, and about a relatively new approach to sustainability and fairness that seeks to transform the business, starting with the little guy.
At times the author meanders a bit, making the story feel disjointed and unfocused, but overall I came away better informed about Third Wave specialty coffee, its various playgrounds and players, and the magnitude of the effort they've undertaken.
At it's conclusion, I couldn't help but to feel a bit saddened, though. As these smaller shops expand and become more profitable and visibly disruptive to the major players, it is inevitable that big money will lure some of these operations to the pocket of big corporations whose governing responsibility is profitability above all. This is the way of Blue Bottle Coffee, now owned by NESTLE. And believe me, the have started to take notice (just google: "Hip coffee is big business").
Though the future of specialty coffee and its farmers is decidedly uncertain (read the book), today the industry is still strong and surging in popularity. Which is good news as it will hopefully infuse it with a new wave of hard working, caring luminaries like the ones in the pages of Weissman's book, willing to continue to improve the quality and sustainability of that one staple of our daily consumption we could all do more to inform ourselves about.