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Against the Water: A surfing champion's inspirational journey to Olympic glory
The gut-wrenching story of how one of Australia’s finest surfers overcame a brain injury and despair to win an Olympic medal.
On the morning of 10 December 2015, Owen Wright entered the water at Pipeline, Hawaii, determined to become a world champion. But after being pounded by a set of monstrous waves, he ended up fighting for life and facing extensive brain trauma. In this inspirational memoir, Wright chronicles the events leading up to that fateful day, as well as the months and years that followed as he battled to regain basic functioning, and eventually the capacity to compete again at the apex of surfing.
Against the Water carries the reader back to Wright’s boyhood in the tiny town of Culburra, where his father, determined to raise champions, turned family life into a kind of boot camp. While
eccentric, his father’s methods bore fruit: the Wrights of Culburra would become Australian surfing royalty. Owen’s story lays bare the complex relationship with his father – the adoration, the fight for independence, the fallings out, and the reconciliations.
Told in a spare, intimate style, Against the Water is the moving account of an athlete who refused to accept that his best days were behind him and raises fundamental questions around family and competition. What, ultimately, is our duty to our children? At what point does bravery become folly? And how much should we sacrifice for the sake of another?
‘Owen was a childhood phenom who grew into the ultimate family man. In between this transition, he took on the world, charged crazy waves, suffered a huge brain injury, and finished off with the all-time sporting comeback!’ Mick Fanning, three-time world champion surfer
‘Whatever it is that Owen is getting himself into, he seems to do it with little to no fear and a massive smile on his face. He’s an inspirational guy, to put it lightly. Owen is one special human!’ Liam Hemsworth, actor
‘Owen Wright has to be the most inspiring person I’ve ever met. His story is one of a childhood prodigy, to facing a near-death experience, to Australian hero . . . This book will inspire and motivate anyone who has had
to face adversity whilst following their dreams.’ Kita Alexander, singer-songwriter
‘[A] true fighter’s spirit!' Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu
world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion
On the morning of 10 December 2015, Owen Wright entered the water at Pipeline, Hawaii, determined to become a world champion. But after being pounded by a set of monstrous waves, he ended up fighting for life and facing extensive brain trauma. In this inspirational memoir, Wright chronicles the events leading up to that fateful day, as well as the months and years that followed as he battled to regain basic functioning, and eventually the capacity to compete again at the apex of surfing.
Against the Water carries the reader back to Wright’s boyhood in the tiny town of Culburra, where his father, determined to raise champions, turned family life into a kind of boot camp. While
eccentric, his father’s methods bore fruit: the Wrights of Culburra would become Australian surfing royalty. Owen’s story lays bare the complex relationship with his father – the adoration, the fight for independence, the fallings out, and the reconciliations.
Told in a spare, intimate style, Against the Water is the moving account of an athlete who refused to accept that his best days were behind him and raises fundamental questions around family and competition. What, ultimately, is our duty to our children? At what point does bravery become folly? And how much should we sacrifice for the sake of another?
‘Owen was a childhood phenom who grew into the ultimate family man. In between this transition, he took on the world, charged crazy waves, suffered a huge brain injury, and finished off with the all-time sporting comeback!’ Mick Fanning, three-time world champion surfer
‘Whatever it is that Owen is getting himself into, he seems to do it with little to no fear and a massive smile on his face. He’s an inspirational guy, to put it lightly. Owen is one special human!’ Liam Hemsworth, actor
‘Owen Wright has to be the most inspiring person I’ve ever met. His story is one of a childhood prodigy, to facing a near-death experience, to Australian hero . . . This book will inspire and motivate anyone who has had
to face adversity whilst following their dreams.’ Kita Alexander, singer-songwriter
‘[A] true fighter’s spirit!' Luke Rockhold, UFC middleweight champion, two-time jiu-jitsu
world champion, three-time strikeforce middleweight champion
352 pages, Paperback
Published August 1, 2023
46 people are currently reading
304 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 45 reviews
October 16, 2023
I actually got this book from the library for Matt, but I got to read it first. I read it in 24hrs. Matt is a surfer and Owen is a surfer who he has alot of respect for. Even more so after reading this book. We loved his rawness, honesty. We loved how he discussed head injuries in sport and making us more aware, making us more aware of its effect, and his inspirational comeback.
August 3, 2023
Unbelievable. So much more discussion needed around concussion in sport
January 30, 2025
Great book. Very inspirational and moving story.
November 10, 2025
3 stars.
This was a nice read, although it was a little hard at times. Clearly Owen loves and adores his father - he raised a winner after all - but it was hard to read the many, long passages about the borderline abuse his Dad put him through. He’s always going to be family, but I’m left confused whether Owen agrees with how his father raised him. It’s clear he sees his own daughter through a loving, nurturing light, and does not agree with how his dad raised his sister Tyler but I’m still unsure of his position on his own upbringing. I only make this a main point of this review because he speaks so much of his father, mostly in a good light but at the same time describing how the needle constantly jumps from blatant neglect to military-style parenting. I do appreciate that Owen’s voice shines through into the pages because of how much he stands by his father despite everything, but his Dad’s condition at the time of writing worsens and Owen’s own family grows with a newly-promoted grandfather at home, sentimentality will stand out. I feel this book was less about highlighting how good Owen is at surfing and more about clearing his father’s name. A physical representation of forgiving but not forgetting maybe.
Owen’s also pretty humble about himself in this book, but he is an incredibly talented human and it was still very clear. This is a very refreshing read, and I came out of it with a whole lot of respect for Owen. He said himself that he’s stepped into the shoes of an ambassador for protecting your noggin, which I find is the big take home message of the book.
This was a nice read, although it was a little hard at times. Clearly Owen loves and adores his father - he raised a winner after all - but it was hard to read the many, long passages about the borderline abuse his Dad put him through. He’s always going to be family, but I’m left confused whether Owen agrees with how his father raised him. It’s clear he sees his own daughter through a loving, nurturing light, and does not agree with how his dad raised his sister Tyler but I’m still unsure of his position on his own upbringing. I only make this a main point of this review because he speaks so much of his father, mostly in a good light but at the same time describing how the needle constantly jumps from blatant neglect to military-style parenting. I do appreciate that Owen’s voice shines through into the pages because of how much he stands by his father despite everything, but his Dad’s condition at the time of writing worsens and Owen’s own family grows with a newly-promoted grandfather at home, sentimentality will stand out. I feel this book was less about highlighting how good Owen is at surfing and more about clearing his father’s name. A physical representation of forgiving but not forgetting maybe.
Owen’s also pretty humble about himself in this book, but he is an incredibly talented human and it was still very clear. This is a very refreshing read, and I came out of it with a whole lot of respect for Owen. He said himself that he’s stepped into the shoes of an ambassador for protecting your noggin, which I find is the big take home message of the book.
January 7, 2024
Owen Wright Surfweltmeister!
Ihm wurde die Diziplin des Sports durch seinen ehrgeizigen Vater in die Wiege gelegt. Schon früh mussten die Wright Geschwister mit dem Trainingsprogramm des Vaters leben und die Leidenschaft für das Meer teilen. Dabei waren besonders Owen und Tyler talentiert.
Owen der immer wieder zu den Top Talenten im Surfsport galt, erlitt am Pipeline in Oahu eine Verletzung am Gehirn, dass ihn zunächst bettlägerig machte. Durch seine Frau - damals Freundin, konnte er sich wieder aufraffen und wurde trotz der dramatischen Verletzungen, Weltmeister am bekannten Teahupoo.
Ihm wurde die Diziplin des Sports durch seinen ehrgeizigen Vater in die Wiege gelegt. Schon früh mussten die Wright Geschwister mit dem Trainingsprogramm des Vaters leben und die Leidenschaft für das Meer teilen. Dabei waren besonders Owen und Tyler talentiert.
Owen der immer wieder zu den Top Talenten im Surfsport galt, erlitt am Pipeline in Oahu eine Verletzung am Gehirn, dass ihn zunächst bettlägerig machte. Durch seine Frau - damals Freundin, konnte er sich wieder aufraffen und wurde trotz der dramatischen Verletzungen, Weltmeister am bekannten Teahupoo.
October 2, 2023
Picked this book up at our library and was instantly hooked. I did not know Owen or any of the Wright siblings before reading this book, due to not being born in Australia. It was wonderful reading about Owen’s life without a preconceived idea about him or his family. I now know way more about surfing and am really inspired to make more healthier choices. Highly recommend his book!
October 27, 2023
Vaguely knew the backstory to Owens injury, recovery and return, however i was not expecting the insight and depth this the book dives into.
I’ve read a fair few books this year but I just cannot remember being so glued to a book as I was with this autobiography. Inspiring to put it lightly
I’ve read a fair few books this year but I just cannot remember being so glued to a book as I was with this autobiography. Inspiring to put it lightly
November 29, 2023
One of those books that you pick up and its way better than you think it's going to be. Not one flat wave in this three hundred pager and truly inspirational story.
May 14, 2024
I‘ve been following the World Surf League’s Championship Tour (CT) since 2017, sometimes watching their at times spectacular multi-day knockout events around the world until the small hours (for free, on Youtube). To be honest, I wasn‘t a big fan of Owen Wright and always found his apparent inconsistency, disappearance, and early retirement somewhat odd - Well, I obviously wasn‘t paying attention to the commentary. In 2015, Wright suffered a traumatic brain injury (TBI) during a training session at Pipeline, Hawai‘i. It took him years to recover and discover that even the slightest concussion or light knock to his head might unleash the initial symptoms all over again. It’s a miracle that he came back and surfed a daunting Teahupoo (albeit wearing a helmet).
This autobiography tells the story of how from early on in his life his dad pushed and coached him into becoming one of the world‘s best surfers, how his family brought up two siblings who also contended in the CT (sister Tyler, two-time women’s world champ, and his brother Mikey), and how they all grappled with their parents being diagnosed with brain tumor and an early onset of dementia. I knew very little about neuroscience, and this book is the perfect combination of hard facts and being able to enjoy a read about one of the greatest sports in the world, surfing.
This autobiography tells the story of how from early on in his life his dad pushed and coached him into becoming one of the world‘s best surfers, how his family brought up two siblings who also contended in the CT (sister Tyler, two-time women’s world champ, and his brother Mikey), and how they all grappled with their parents being diagnosed with brain tumor and an early onset of dementia. I knew very little about neuroscience, and this book is the perfect combination of hard facts and being able to enjoy a read about one of the greatest sports in the world, surfing.
January 4, 2024
If you're going to read anything this summer, make it AGAINST THE WATER, a memoir by @owright . As someone who has had multiple concussions and had my own little brain melting hospitalisation experience myself this year, I can definitely recommend it. 👌 🌊
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I never suffered a concussion in my surfing days (mine all came from horses), but if you've read my novel SALT, you'd know how much TBI played a part in my character's life. Mad respect for Owen for both his tenacity and for his ultimate decision. Living legend. 🤙yeww
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I never suffered a concussion in my surfing days (mine all came from horses), but if you've read my novel SALT, you'd know how much TBI played a part in my character's life. Mad respect for Owen for both his tenacity and for his ultimate decision. Living legend. 🤙yeww
November 10, 2023
I was really stuck into this book. He writes so well it’s so clean and engaging. After hearing his story it’s impressive that he is able to write anything of substance at all.
I’ve watched him surfing on the tour for the past decade, heard about his injuries but never understood their extent. It really makes this guy I see on the screen come to life and it is astonishing that he was surfing at such an elite level whilst not even being close to his optimal physical form.
His upbringing was really fascinating. It makes sense that with such a no nonsense routine that he was so disciplined and refined. This isn’t a story of someone finding the strength and overcoming his lower self. He is head strong (not literally 😝) and knows how to work that isn’t the issue, his traumatic brain injury just stopped him and he had to accept that.
It’s quite a confronting story about the reality of a major injury. I learned a lot and just found there were so many little moments in here that had me beaming.
4.5 stars
I’ve watched him surfing on the tour for the past decade, heard about his injuries but never understood their extent. It really makes this guy I see on the screen come to life and it is astonishing that he was surfing at such an elite level whilst not even being close to his optimal physical form.
His upbringing was really fascinating. It makes sense that with such a no nonsense routine that he was so disciplined and refined. This isn’t a story of someone finding the strength and overcoming his lower self. He is head strong (not literally 😝) and knows how to work that isn’t the issue, his traumatic brain injury just stopped him and he had to accept that.
It’s quite a confronting story about the reality of a major injury. I learned a lot and just found there were so many little moments in here that had me beaming.
4.5 stars
February 7, 2024
Wright shares his career, life and the importance of being aware of the impact of head knocks.
June 26, 2025
well written story, very interesting life to date,
June 9, 2025
It was good to learn who Owen Wright is behind the surfing career he had made. I very much liked hearing about his upbringing and how he met his wife and their story. That was lovely. He also talked a lot about his relationship with his surfing champion sister Tyler. I wish he talked a little more about his relationship with his other siblings a bit more too, but I understand.
Most of this book is about Owen's injury and recovery after he had a major wipe out at Pipeline in Hawaii. It was interesting to hear how painful it was for him because his brain was just out of sorts so much. It sounds like it was difficult.
There is a lot of bad language throughout this book. It was a big reason why I rated it the way I did (I almost made it even lower), but I enjoyed reading it. Owen sounds like he very much cares for his family quite a lot.
Most of this book is about Owen's injury and recovery after he had a major wipe out at Pipeline in Hawaii. It was interesting to hear how painful it was for him because his brain was just out of sorts so much. It sounds like it was difficult.
There is a lot of bad language throughout this book. It was a big reason why I rated it the way I did (I almost made it even lower), but I enjoyed reading it. Owen sounds like he very much cares for his family quite a lot.
November 8, 2023
I found this to be a well written book. As someone with little knowledge of surfing I was able to understand the information without being overwhelmed.
I was drawn to this book in part as it was about an Aussie sportsman but mainly due to Owen's story relating to concussions. As I was reading about his initial concussions and symptoms, I felt the confusion he and his sport felt. So many sports have been slow to recognize the impact in the long and short term on someone..
I have seen first hand how life changing a concussion can have as my daughter struggled (and still struggles) from her late teens with not only the symptoms of Post concussion syndrome but also the negativity of people around us.
Thank you Owen for sharing your story.
I was drawn to this book in part as it was about an Aussie sportsman but mainly due to Owen's story relating to concussions. As I was reading about his initial concussions and symptoms, I felt the confusion he and his sport felt. So many sports have been slow to recognize the impact in the long and short term on someone..
I have seen first hand how life changing a concussion can have as my daughter struggled (and still struggles) from her late teens with not only the symptoms of Post concussion syndrome but also the negativity of people around us.
Thank you Owen for sharing your story.
November 27, 2024
I was surprised when Owen Wright’s father leaves Owen’s mum, (who was sick in hospital) to go on a tour with Owen. This part from the auto-biography shows the dedication and sacrifice that is needed to be a pro surfer. Many of us dream big but can’t imagine the pain and sacrifice needed to achieve these goals.
‘Success in surfing starts with respecting the ocean’- Owen Wright’s quote symbolizes the connection with the ocean that surfing requires, as we cannot control the waves but only what we do with them, respect of the waves is the first step of success.
Owen Wright’s autobiography is a book for surfing records, it helps us have insight into the world of pro surfing, the sacrifices needed, the struggles and the emotional plateaus of his journey.
‘Success in surfing starts with respecting the ocean’- Owen Wright’s quote symbolizes the connection with the ocean that surfing requires, as we cannot control the waves but only what we do with them, respect of the waves is the first step of success.
Owen Wright’s autobiography is a book for surfing records, it helps us have insight into the world of pro surfing, the sacrifices needed, the struggles and the emotional plateaus of his journey.
February 22, 2024
Audiobook listen.
Wow. What an incredible story!!! I love Kita Alexander and have been following her and her music for years. I stumbled across her husband, Owen’s book via her socials and was curious to read his story. I actually found myself enjoying learning bits and pieces related to surfing, but this book is so much more than that. This is a story of the complexity of family, mental health, the seriousness and need for more talk re. concussion, dementia, love, loss, discovering your passions, finding your people, support and hope. I’ll be recommending this to everyone.
Wow. What an incredible story!!! I love Kita Alexander and have been following her and her music for years. I stumbled across her husband, Owen’s book via her socials and was curious to read his story. I actually found myself enjoying learning bits and pieces related to surfing, but this book is so much more than that. This is a story of the complexity of family, mental health, the seriousness and need for more talk re. concussion, dementia, love, loss, discovering your passions, finding your people, support and hope. I’ll be recommending this to everyone.
August 12, 2023
This is a well written book describing the aftermath of receiving numerous concussions and the fight to come back. It seems like a person never comes back completely but gives hope come back as a new person. As I read this book I remember watching some of the scenes that he describes and now I can understand the full meaning behind them. I highly recommend this book the everyone, whether a fan of surfing or not. It has an important message for any athlete, or family and friend of an athlete.
September 13, 2023
A fascinating and candid biography from one of Australia’s preeminent surfers. Owen delves into his childhood and living with a strict and focused father, into his International surfing career, and living with a sustained brain injury. Whilst there are significant amounts of the book dedicated to his surfing career, this book is much more than that, and definitely has a much wider appeal.
Read by Suzie
Read by Suzie
October 2, 2023
Such an interesting life, even before the injuries it was fascinating to hear about Owen’s childhood and his father’s approaches to raising their kids, and how that impacted Owen’s trajectory. Parenting is a tough gig and I’d love to hear which aspects Owen has taken from his father into his own parenting journey and what he’s trying to do differently. Really interesting to learn how Owen attacked his recovery from all angles - physical, mental, and spiritual.
January 16, 2024
Really great Australian story about being at the peak before having it all taken away and having to find it again. Such a resilient bloke that was never letting the fear of failure stop him. Great book that’s easy to read. Really enjoyed sitting on the beach over the holiday period reading this and then just taking 5 minutes to sit and watch the ocean after some of Owen stories about how he was struggling. Just goes to show Superhero’s are real people too.
August 8, 2023
A great peak behind the curtain. As a surf fan I still didn’t know half of what Owen had to go through. An inspirational story. He is a true legend of surfing.
Prose was a bit lacklustre though. Not sure what I was expecting there to be honest. But story was well structured which helped to make up for it.
Prose was a bit lacklustre though. Not sure what I was expecting there to be honest. But story was well structured which helped to make up for it.
August 24, 2023
A fascinating and candid biography from one of Australia’s preeminent surfers. Owen delves into his childhood and living with a strict and focused father, into his International surfing career, and living with a sustained brain injury. Whilst there are significant amounts of the book dedicated to his surfing career, this book is much more than that, and definitely has a much wider appeal.
April 25, 2025
Against the Water
A good read. Owen’s story is a testament to his own determination and the caring he received from his family and all the medical professionals who aided him.
How do you navigate your life to get back to the one thing you can’t do without - surfing after a TBI.
This book is insightful.
A good read. Owen’s story is a testament to his own determination and the caring he received from his family and all the medical professionals who aided him.
How do you navigate your life to get back to the one thing you can’t do without - surfing after a TBI.
This book is insightful.
September 13, 2023
A really enjoyable and well-written book. Surfing fans, sporting fans, and people interested in the human experience will love this book. Owen gives the reader a front-row seat to life at the top of one of the most interesting sports. I couldn't put it down.
December 30, 2023
I thoroughly enjoyed learning about Owen’s life’s story and the hardships he and his family had to endure. His passion for surfing is contagious and as an Australian myself, it was a pleasure to read.
July 22, 2024
An inspiring read about sheer determination and drive in both sport and the challenges of life along the way. Makes me yearn for summer again so I can get back in the water and catch more than white wash!
August 26, 2023
This story really changed the way I’m looking at my training. eat well, sleep well and train hard. Owen is absolutely incredible and has the heart of a lion.
August 28, 2023
Honest and very confronting. Cant believe what this man went through.I have always related concussion to rugby and league and AFL
A real eye opener
A real eye opener
Displaying 1 - 30 of 45 reviews