Pilgrimage: Lessons Learned from Solo Walking Three Ancient Ways

by J.F. Penn

Pilgrimage attracts the seekers. Those with a question to answer, a problem to solve, a sin to atone for, an illness to be cured, a prayer to be answered. Pilgrims walk with a desire to make a change, to mark a boundary from one life to another, to heal, to escape.

I needed all of these, and more. Perhaps you do, too.

In mid-October 2020, I walked the Pilgrims’ Way from Southwark Cathedral in London to Canterbury Cathedral in Kent, England.

The following year, in October 2021, as I recovered from COVID-19, I walked the St Cuthbert’s Way from Melrose in Scotland to Lindisfarne, Holy Island, on the northeast coast of England.

In September 2022, I walked the Camino de Santiago along the coastal route from Porto, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

These three solo pilgrimages helped me through a ‘dark wood’ in my life and changed how I see the way ahead.

In this book, I share my lessons learned and insights from walking these ancient ways, as well as historical, religious and cultural aspects, and plenty of tips. There are also questions for you to consider around your own journey.

Part 1 goes into practical and spiritual preparation before pilgrimage, including how to make decisions about the route and whether to walk solo, as well as what to take with you, and how to face the fears that might hold you back.

Part 2 covers the journey itself with the practicalities of the pilgrim’s day, as well as how walking the path of history and facing the challenge of the way can give you much-needed perspective on life — and perhaps even a glimpse of the divine.

Part 3 addresses the arrival at your destination, and how to leave room for the gifts of pilgrimage to emerge after your return home, as well as how my three walks impacted my experience of mid-life.

At the end, you’ll find appendices with practical tips for each of the three ways, as well as a gear list and bibliography for further reading.

I hope you find this book useful if you feel a call to pilgrimage, or a need for change in your life. These three walks have certainly been pivotal for me.

Special edition paperback

Genres: Travel, Memoir, Nonfiction, Audiobook, British Literature, Spirituality

230 pages, Paperback

Published February 8, 2023

About the author

I'm the award-winning, New York Times and USA Today bestselling author of thrillers, crime, dark fantasy, horror, short stories, and travel memoir.

Reading order: https://jfpennbooks.com/pages/reading...

The fast-paced ARKANE thrillers weave together historical artifacts, global locations, a kick-ass protagonist and a hint of the supernatural. Described by readers as "Dan Brown meets Lara Croft."

The Brooke & Daniel Crime Thriller Series features British detective Jamie Brooke alongside museum researcher Blake Daniel, as they solve dark crimes around London.

The Mapwalker fantasy adventure trilogy is set between Bath, England and the Borderlands in a split world fantasy where Sienna and the Mapwalker team travel through maps to adventure ...

A Thousand Fiendish Angels is a collection of 3 short stories bound together by a book of human skin. Inspired by Dante's Inferno.

You can buy books directly from me https://jfpennbooks.com/

I have a blog and podcast at http://www.BooksAndTravel.page

I'm passionate about writing and I love reading. My favorite authors include James Rollins, Jonathan Maberry, John Connolly, Daniel Silva, and I also read a lot of travel books.

Reviews

[Janet Wertman · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed! I would have enjoyed even more if I had any plans to go on pilgrimage myself - since the practical tips kinda left me cold. I had hoped for more of the internal experience day by day - which is a bit unfair (it’s never right to wish an author had written a different book!)

[Sheila · Rating 3 out of 5]

I received a free copy of, Pilgrimage, by J.F. Penn, from the publisher and Netgalley in exchange for an honest review. I have been on a few pilgrimages and loved them. I enjoyed this book, it was a good but short read on pilgrimages, mainly walking pilgrimages, how to prepare, what to bring, etc.

[Roderick Vonhogen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Joanna Penn's account of three short pilgrimages she walked during Covid brought back many memories of my own pilgrimage to Santiago. She perfectly captures the experience, and even though she no longer considers herself a christian (and explains in the book how she turned away from evangelical christianity in the past), many of her experiences reflect her remaining quest for meaning and for a God she says she doesn't believe in. Wonderfully written and a great starting point for anyone who is considering to walk a short or a longer pilgrimage in the future. This book does a great job preparing you for it.

[Sylviane Stoltzman · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book as it opened my eyes as to what it takes to go on a pilgrimage. I enjoyed Joanna Penn’s raw honesty. We all experience what I call “the dark abyss” at some point, and her honesty about it and how she finds walking her relief was eye opening that we aren’t all that different. It was also interesting to learn about the different lodgings, food, and what to expect along the way. If you are interested in a pilgrimage, this book is a good guide to open your eyes about what you can expect, what you might need, and other tidbits along the way. Thank you for sharing your journey with us, Ms. Penn.

[Julia · Rating 4 out of 5]

I wasn't sure what to expect from this book when I backed it on Kickstarter. J.F. Penn is a British thriller writer and podcaster that often includes religious sites and artifacts in her books. In 2020, when the first lockdown was starting in the UK, Penn faced the inevitable midlife ennui and lockdown anxiety. Since she couldn't leave the country, she decided to explore England, taking the old Pilgrim's Way route from Southwark to Canterbury Cathedral. Then after facing Covid herself, she took the St. Cuthbert's route from Melrose Abbey in Scotland to Lindisfarne/Holy Island off Northumberland, England. Then finally in 2022, Penn undertook the coastal route from Portugal to Santiago de Compostela. This book sums up what she learned on those pilgrimages and provides tips and resources for those that undertake their own pilgrimages.

The book was split into three sections -- the preparations, the journey, and finally the arrival/return. Each chapter ends with a list of questions to help you think about your pilgrimage. (She also has a separate workbook available with the questions and other materials, and an audiobook read by the author.) Penn also includes links to pictures from her trip, along with detailed appendixes with gear, bibliographies, and details about the different routes.

I enjoyed the more "travel memoir" parts of the book where she talks about her experiences on the routes from walking across the causeway to Lindisfarne/Holy Island, listening to a choir at Canterbury for Evensong, or even arriving at Santiago de Compostela on the day of Queen Elizabeth II's funeral.

If I had a criticism, it's that it's trying to be many things at once. Is it a travel memoir? Is it a resource guide? Even the author admits as much in interviews.

My other problem was the timing. Penn goes to great lengths to talk about pushing through the pilgrimage, even when her body wasn't cooperating. And there is something admirable in finding that inner strength. But in the middle of a pandemic -- when hospitals are struggling to find room for patients? She also talks about doing her pilgrimage walks through heavy storms. Neither rain nor sleet will keep the pilgrim from their walks. But it feels a little foolhardy at times. This is why I travel vicariously from the couch.

[Zoë Routh · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a beautiful book! Joanna’s raw vulnerability as she shares her inner journey as well as her outer one was so moving. Each page chimes with humility and sincerity that I found uplifting.

As a fellow walker, I appreciated the insights that not every day is joyful or fun. Drudgery, pain, doubt all form part of it.

I liked the mix of reflection and practical advice for other seekers.

Walking, solitude, reflection, grief and growth are precious moments of a life well lived. I thoroughly enjoyed a window into Joanna’s search and discovery.

Thank you so much for writing it!

[Eustacia Tan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have been following Joanna Penn for a while as her podcast on being a self-published author is one of the biggest podcasts within the subgenre. When I heard she was holding a Kickstarter for a new book – one themed around travel – I was instantly intrigued. And it didn’t hurt that the Kickstarter made it to the stretch goal where her notes on writing a travel memoir would be released.

Pilgrimage is a book about Penn’s three pilgrimages, why she did them, and how the reader can carry out a pilgrimage too. The book is divided into three sections:

1. Preparing for the journey
2. The journey itself
3. Arriving and the return home

Given that this book is both a ‘how-to’ guide and a memoir, it’s not surprising that one half dominates. In Pilgrimage’s case, I felt that the ‘how-to’ section was a lot stronger; the first section was pretty much on the practicalities of preparing for a pilgrimage and even the second pilgrimage section had chapters on things like food and what to carry. Each chapter also ends with a list of questions/journalling prompts and/or resources. Personally, I didn’t need the resources/prompts at the end of every chapter – when it came to the more personal chapters, having a list of questions at the end felt out of place.

Of course, my favourite parts of the book were the more personal chapters (especially since the odds of me doing a multi-day walk are very small). Penn touched upon her journey from evangelical to non-believer in one early chapter, and I really wanted to hear more about that and how it influenced the way she experienced the pilgrimages; she has another chapter titled “a glimpse of the divine in sacred places” and I had hoped that chapter would relate back more to her past. It does feel like presenting the practical information on how to go on a pilgrimage helped to put a bit of distance between the reader and the more personal, possibly touchy things.

Would I have read a version of this book that had zero pilgrimage advice but focused solely on her personal journey? Absolutely.

In fact, this together with the mini e-book “Notes on Writing a Travel Memoir” was interesting. Penn goes through her journey writing the book and how this was different from her other non-fiction. I did think it interesting that the chapter on menopause resonated with a lot of people, mostly because I read it as an “aside” and didn’t realise how much courage it took to put it out there – that behind the scene’s look was very interesting to me!

Overall, I found this to be an interesting book. I have always toyed with the idea of travel writing, though I find that I am not descriptive enough in my travel posts, so that is one huge difficulty right there! But the fact that Pilgrimage manages not to be too personal through the concrete tips on how to conduct a pilgrimage makes encourages me that perhaps one doesn’t need to be too personal to write a travel memoir. It was lovely to see Penn’s journey and receive some tips on how to conduct a pilgrimage and I can definitely see myself revisiting this book.

This review was first posted at Eustea Reads

[Rich · Rating 2 out of 5]

I read the paperback edition which is yet to be listed on Goodreads. There's a lot I could write in this review, but I'll try to keep it simple.
The front cover of the book is lovely. A lot of interesting tips etc about this kind of walking is littered throughout and doubtless useful. However this book is promoted as something a bit more deep and meaningful. That's where it doesn't work for me.

Penn's Camino is pushed throughout the book as being so important to her, but there is little or no description of her route, her day to day challenges physically/emotionally or her reactions to what she sees around her. What did she think about each day? At the end of it all and her return to her husband - what impact has this had on her life/outlook/relationships? Penn seems uninterested in telling the reader.

I don't know anyone who was left unscathed by the pandemic. My parents both had to shield themselves.
I have a friend with serious Long Covid, which has meant many changes to his day-to day life. I know people who were seriously ill with Covid and thankfully recovered. I also know people who had to watch members of their family go off to hospital (for non-Covid reasons) knowing they would never see them again due to Covid restrictions around hospital visits.
During the lockdowns Penn's focus seems to be on herself, with hardly a thought for her husband, family or friends. Even a trip to New Zealand so her husband can see his mother is fundamentally about how the author struggled with quarantine and not being able to buy takeaway coffee. If this sounds like I'm being flippant and a little shallow, that's because that's how the book reads.

On the one hand Penn (rightly) raises the problems of doom scrooling and too much internet time being detrimental to well-being, but then on the other includes hyperlinks to her website on almost every page. The endless plugs for her novels is unnecessary and in the case of her description of Lindisfarne jarring. What is this a personal account of a spiritual odyssey or a sales catalogue?

This book promises so much and delivers so little of what could have made it something so much more.

[Antonia · Rating 5 out of 5]

Joanna (aka J.F.) Penn is a powerhouse — a multi-talented writer (of fiction and nonfiction), a podcaster, international speaker, and award-winning creative entrepreneur. She has for many years maintained a fantastic website, The Creative Penn, with all extensive knowledge and advice on a wide range of topics — e.g., writing (fiction and nonfiction), self-publishing, marketing, the author mindset, AI and the future of creativity, as well as numerous tools, tutorials, and other resources.

I’ve long been a fan, though I don’t read the kind of fiction she writes — thrillers usually involving religious subjects and supernatural dimensions. But I’ve read many of her nonfiction books on writing and marketing, listened to her podcasts for years (she’s been podcasting regularly since 2009(!) and weekly since 2015), and have availed myself of several tutorials and website topics.

During the years from 2020 to 2022, Joanna walked three pilgrim trails — Pilgrims’ Way, England; St. Cuthbert’s Way, Scotland & England; Camino de Santiago’s Portuguese Coastal Route — not in the spirit of a religious journey, but rather as a secular and, in part, inner journey. This book is part memoir and part advice to anyone thinking about undertaking a pilgrimage. It’s available in print or audio and really great to listen to (Penn narrates) The book contains several appendices, including questions to ask yourself in preparation for both the physical and inner journey, and links to all kinds of resources on her website.

For this book, Joanna won Best Self-Published Non Fiction/Memoir at the Selfies Awards at the 2024 London Book Fair.

I don’t plan to undertake this kind of a walking pilgrimage, but I realized in reading and thinking about the questions posed that it’s my art journey that’s my pilgrimage. There are so many similarities, and I plan to think and write more about them. Anyway, a good book even if you have no intention of this kind of walking.

[Meagan | The Chapter House · Rating 4 out of 5]

Pilgrimages (and, more specifically, the Camino de Santiago) have popped up in my mind (and, frankly, my social feeds, LOL) every so often--both before and after the pandemic. So this book was good timing!

I really enjoyed seeing some different pilgrimage options beyond the Camino de Santiago; Britain is near and dear to my heart, yet I really didn't know anything about pilgrimages there. The book certainly whetted my appetite to start there--the Camino is great, and Spain is great (I've been twice), but man, my heart is in England. I have a feeling any pilgrimage I'd do there would be its own level of special.

Penn's _Pilgrimage_ combines travel guide and memoir, sometimes slightly unevenly (as though it weren't sure which to be). Sometimes the combo worked quite well; other times, less so. But, I particularly appreciated the questions and resources at the end of each chapter, and I'm sure i'll refer back to both during my own planning sessions.

Penn writes engagingly and thoughtfully; I was drawn in to her story from the get-go. As a Christian myself, it did make me sad to read about her departure from the faith, and to see it so bluntly in black and white.

I received an eARC of the book from the publisher via NetGalley. All opinions are my own.

[Ronel Janse van Vuuren · Rating 3 out of 5]

I listened to the audiobook.

The excerpts from other books weren’t clear until the source was cited, which probably works well in the written work, but needs something more to differentiate it from the main chapter in audio. As I recognised most of these quotes, it was jarring to hear as part of the book until the sources were cited.

I think the whole chapter about religion could just have been left out as it is something that divides us. It just made me sad for the author…

I like the idea of walking from one place to another, having the pain and hunger from it be the only focus. I like the idea of this being a way to clear one’s mind from the daily hustle-and-bustle to find what really matters.

There isn’t really much on what she experienced personally during the walks – the insights mentioned in the blurb. Talking about “leaving baggage behind” is quite generic. It’s more of a nuts-and-bolts book on what to take and what not to pack. There’s lots of talk about the Pandemic (Covid19), but not how things changed, just how much it depressed her.

The way the author describes some of the places make them come alive. It sounds like a great idea to go walking alone and let the world show itself to you.

Loads of tips on how to prepare for a pilgrimage.

[Gabriele Ewerts · Rating 5 out of 5]

Joanna’s advice throughout Pilgrimage was helpful and I loved the chapters where she tells about her feelings at certain points in her journey and how hard it was sometimes to keep going. She says, “But the pilgrimage is not a holiday. It is meant to be a challenge—and part of the challenge is not giving up;” and also, “I know this pain is temporary and it will fade, but the pride in finishing will be mine for the rest of my life.” These quotes were most inspirational to me.
The one thing I would have liked to read more about would be a full day of step-by-step experiences of feelings and sights and sounds to really immerse myself in the journey as well. There were many good parts where she gives a glimpse of this but not enough, in my opinion. Also, the additional information on her website and the photos are awesome.
All in all, Pilgrimage helped me to answer questions that I need to consider for my own journey or pilgrimage. I enjoyed the book tremendously. Thank you for sharing, Joanna.

[Lisa Lilly · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book made me cry because so much of the author's experience spoke to me despite that I never plan to walk a pilgrimage. I read it at first only because I like her thrillers and non-fiction and was curious.

But along with descriptions of pilgrimages and useful tips, Penn talks about her reasons for walking. A typically happy, upbeat person, she shares openly her struggles with depression during the pandemic, her feelings of isolation, the physical and emotional challenges she faced as a woman coming into middle age, and her need for spiritual connection despite being non-believer in any traditional sense.

Her feelings so mirrored my own that I felt a great sense of relief. I'm not the only one. It helped me consider how I might get back in touch with nature and anything else that feeds me creatively and emotionally. So it turns out that a book I bought but wasn't sure I'd ever read is now one I plan to keep on my shelf and turn to for inspiration when I need it.

Highly recommended whether you're a walker, solo or otherwise, or not.

[Zoe Langley-Wathen · Rating 5 out of 5]

After listening to the audio book just hours after launch, I wanted to spend some time around the hard back pages of Pilgrimage. On both occasions I discovered fresh information and some magical gems of advice. Joanna uses the model of part travel memoir and part 'how-to' guide. She shares personal experiences and observations from her three recent pilgrimages. This includes areas such as what to expect, what to carry, dealing with pain and a raw honesty regarding mental health. It's all you would want to hear in a memoir, delivered in a succinct manner. As a bonus, there are many resources such as accommodation, support and travel recommendations. Joanna poses questions at the end of each chapter, giving the reader the opportunity to consider possibilities, reflect, and plan their own pilgrimage. Overall, Pilgrimage is encouraging, insightful and a perfect handbook to guide you on your journey. Whether you are planning your first or one of a long line of trails already in your pack, there is something for everyone here.

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

Joanna Penn is an inspiration in everything she does, and this book is no exception. She offered it through the Kickstarter program and I was hooked. A SIGNED copy! plus loads more emails filled with tips.
In the book she describes the three Pilgrimages she took during Covid. What an wonderful activity to do during a very rough time.
I just finished reading Old Lady on the Trail and couldn't help but compare and contrast the hiking experiences of the two ladies.
Joanna's book is filled with details about her journeys and is broken into themes or topics as opposed to the longitudinal format of Old Lady. Both work!
I especially loved the list of equipment Penn gave at the end of the book - what was useful and what was not.
Thank you Ms. Penn for the information, inspiration and entertainment Pilgrimage provided.

[Cat · Rating 4 out of 5]

I often thought about doing a pilgrimagewalk, but it's so daunting! But for those interested in doing one, this book may well be a good place to start planning for it. It covers basic: walking to get used to the distance of the pilgrimage, how to arrange the trip (tour or solo), where to sleep various (rough it, plan stays ahead of walk, have an agent do it for you), carry your own gear (and what to take or leave behind), sightsee or not,... the book seems to cover all the bases. As a mostly armchair journeryer these days, I enjoyed reading about the different routes and things and people one might meet along the way. `I may make a trip yet!
The author, having walked the routes, seems a pretty good authority on the subject.
I received a Kindle arc from the publisher in eschange for a fair review.

[Rick Waugh · Rating 5 out of 5]

I very much enjoyed this book, part travelogue, part personal journey and confessional. It has practical info on what it’s like, what you need to consider when going, how the actual walks work. But Joanna also gives an unvarnished truth about how she felt. Yes, she got spiritual/mental rewards. But in many ways, and at many times in the journey, it was less about inspiration, and more about putting one foot in front of the other. I don’t know that I’d ever do one of these walks, though my wife and I talked about doing the Camino — as Joanna has noted, it’s hard, and painful. Is it worth it in the end? Well, what does that even mean? As Joanna says, I don’t think you know the answer until you finish, and can contemplate it for a while.

[J.B. Hollows · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’m so happy I came back to this profound little book. I’m a big fan of Penn’s writing for writers and I was excited to receive the hardback and workbook back in February’24. For some reason I couldn’t get past the first few pages.

This Christmas I decided to listen to the audiobook and what a treat it was.

The book is a blend of personal struggle (and overcoming those struggles) with actionable questions about how to commit to one’s own pilgrimage. The mix was perfect. The personal stories gave the descriptions depth and meaning.

This book could definitely be used to chart your own pilgrimage and in fact had me thinking about my ‘life pilgrimage’ in parts.

Beautifully written in Penn’s unique voice. An inspiring, thought provoking read.

[Loren · Rating 3 out of 5]

I loved following J.F. Penn's Instagram as she walked pilgrimage trails in England and Scotland during the Pandemic. When I backed this book on Kickstarter, I was hoping to recapture that sense of adventuring through her, but this is more of a nuts-and-bolts, boots-on-the-ground encouragement to walk the pilgrim trails yourself. Not what I was looking for, but hopefully she will keep having adventures, keep following the old trails, and will someday write the beautiful memoir hinted at in this book. If you're looking for a companion on your own pilgrimages, she offers lot of advice and resources.

[Bruce Harpham · Rating 4 out of 5]

Received this book after supporting the author's Kickstarter campaign this year. The book is a wonderful blend of memoir, practical travel tips, journal entries and more. I particularly enjoyed that the author covered two British pilgrimage paths - these are journeys that I didn't know much about. I also found the book very easy to read, with end-of-chapter questions and resources. The hardcover edition I read included a selection of great full-colour photos.

I only wish the book had been longer and gone into more detail about the various pilgrimages including their history.

[Julie Schooler · Rating 5 out of 5]

Pilgrimage is both a practical guide to multi-day walks and a travel memoir that is both personal and profound. It was a quick read with lots of helpful tips that I probably would not have thought of (eg: do some navigation training beforehand). However, the parts I liked the best were when the author talked about how her pilgrimages had an impact on her life. I bought this book as part of the author's Kickstarter campaign and so I am not the target audience of somebody thinking of doing a pilgrimage, but I would definitely recommend it to anyone who did want to attempt one.

[Christy E. · Rating 5 out of 5]

A beautiful and inspiring account of the author's experience undertaking three different pilgrimages. There are a ton of practical tips and great advice for anyone wanting to do this. But the book also satisfies on a deeper level. She shares honestly about her struggles with spirituality, mid-life, and depression. I felt like I was walking these journeys with her, and I wanted to shout for joy when she finished!

[Claire Kinmil · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book is a quick and easy read. It's full of helpful tips and makes me want to walk more. I wish there was more on what kinds of epiphanies people usually experience and in which ways the pilgrimage changes them. There is some of that, but it feels too vague for me.
I would recommend this book to anyone who thinks walking for several days sounds interesting.

[Blair Cousins · Rating 4 out of 5]

Listened to the audiobook. This was a lovely travel memoir packed with nuggets of inspiration. This reads more like a guide for folks who want to go on a pilgrimage than a narrative non-fiction book. That's okay, though, I enjoyed learning about her journey, and I'm sure I can use the advice if I ever decide to go on a week-long walk.

[Holly · Rating 5 out of 5]

What an excellent book! I'm an avid walker, and I really enjoyed Joanna's perspective on her experiences. I learned a lot about pilgrimage as opposed to just walking a random trail or route, and I'm inspired to try pilgrimage myself. It's not just for religious people! I highly recommend this book.

[Hanna Wesslén · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book. It was so inspiring and made me want to walk the Camino, or some other pilgrim route. J.F Penn makes the pilgrimage accessible and relevant for everyone, even if you are not religious. It is more about the outer and inner journey that a long walk can contribute to.
The book is packed with tips, questions and reflections as well as beautiful pictures.
Highly recommended!

[Bernie Anderson · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this. It defies genres in many ways. Is it a travel guide? Is it a memoir? Is it a personal life journal?

Yes. To all of it.

I get some may not appreciate that. But I enjoyed this along with the photos!
Recommended.

(I was a supporter of the kickstarter)

[Tess Manchester · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful book! Deep insights, practical tips, and Penn's personal journey make for a compelling story and pilgrimage. I will always remember to have an emergency Snickers, or in my case, an emergency Cherry Ripe!

[Harley · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a mixture of memoir, history and instructional manual. If you are interested in pilgrimages, this is a book to read. I wanted more of the memoir and history and less of the instruction.

[Tara Marlow · Rating 4 out of 5]

A review is coming... on The Crackpot Writer website