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320 pages, Paperback
First published March 4, 2003
At the start of the journey, I thought I was walking into the wreckage of Christianity. My impression now was of how much remained, holding tight to its decayed inheritance. Despite the decline of religion in Europe, it was still possible to cross the continent like a medieval pilgrim: traveling on foot, stopping at shrines, and supported by charity. Still possible to find comfort in pilgrim rites, even if the belief was gone. So maybe decline was also evidence of endurance, and loss the price we pay for surviving.Walking to Canterbury: A Modern Journey Through Chaucer's Medieval England is the tale of a 1999 pilgrimage to the great cathedral by Jerry Ellis, someone who earlier in his life walked 700 miles to honor his Native-American heritage & to remember the tragedy of 1838 when 7,000 U.S. soldiers marched 18,000 of America's indigenous people 900 miles in the midst of winter to "Indian Territory" in Oklahoma, forcing them to leave behind their Appalachian home in Alabama, with many of them perishing en route in what became known as the "trail of tears."

Fear of sudden death from the plague & burning eternally in hell inspired masses of pilgrims to make pilgrimages & it also enhanced the economy of places like Canterbury. But some were simply unable to pay imposed fines to feudal lords, with a pilgrimage their only option.A few pilgrims walked barefoot or in leg-irons or chains to demonstrate their resolve to reform their lives. Many believed that the periodic plagues & other disease was the result of sin. However, some of the author's narrative is rather scattershot, as for example an extended commentary on the place of various kinds of religious relics in the medieval world, including one church that boasted it had the foreskin & another the umbilical cord of Christ, details that seemed unnecessary.
A pilgrim asked for forgiveness of those he had wronged or owed money to, got permission from his wife & the feudal lord, made a will, gained a blessing from his parish priest or monk, was handed a staff in a ritual that originated with knights departing on the first Crusade & commenced walking. For pilgrims traveling in groups was common, but a solo pilgrim won the most respect because it gave him a greater opportunity to know God.



And, all roads do not lead to Rome, the empire that built the "Pilgrims' Way"; rather the paths lead to the human condition where souls & spirits await our daily judgement to acknowledge them, or turn our heads, pretending that we don't see.*Among the images within my review are: the author, Jerry Ellis; a recreated medieval pilgrim; Chaucer's "Wife of Bath"; the cathedral at Canterbury.