“A great primer. . . . If you're new to the natural/organic/biodynamic wine debates, Authentic Wine is the place to start.”—Huffington Post
“This is one of the most engaging, thoughtful and enlightening books on contemporary wine. . . . A manifesto for an industry looking to shape its future.”—Wine And Spirits
Naturalness is a hot topic in the wine world. But what exactly is a “natural wine”? For this pioneering book, best-selling wine writer Jamie Goode teams up with winemaker and Master of Wine Sam Harrop to explore the wide range of issues surrounding authenticity in wine. They begin by emphasizing that wine’s diversity, one of its strengths, is currently under threat from increasingly homogenized commercial wines that lack a sense of place. Drawing on a global array of examples and anecdotes, Goode and Harrop examine complex concepts—terroir, biodynamics, and sustainability—in clear language. They also discuss topics including cultured and wild yeasts, wine “faults,” the carbon footprint of the wine industry, “natural” as a marketing concept, and more. Authentic Wine illuminates a subject of great interest to wine producers, consumers, and anyone wondering where the wine industry is headed.
Authentic or natural wine is a phrase that has yet to really establish a foothold in the consciousness of the typical wine consumer, yet it seems to be a bit of a hot topic for the wine world. Commercial and consumer pressures might be facing a fight head on. Through this book the authors look at exactly what “authentic wine” is and how commercial interests seeking to push a series of standardised products could threaten a centuries-old tradition. The typical wine consumer might already think that they are fairly “green” by drinking wine. It comes from grapes and is a natural production isn’t it? Yet many don’t know that many popular wines are delivered in bulk tankers for eventual bottling and mass distribution. A carefully-crafted image perhaps hides the reality. Of course, many fine wines are hand-crafted, stored in gothic cellars for years and are real, true artisanal works… but you might see the difference in your pocket as well as in the taste. This is an academically-focussed book, drilling down with precision into topics weighty such as biodynamics and organics, chemical and physical manipulation of wines and the carbon footprint (caused) by wine. Reading through the book certainly provokes thought, irrespective of which side of the fence you might find yourself on. What is really involved in the chain from field to table: is the source of raw ingredients sustainable? Just how much work is involved in production and transportation? Can demand create more problems along the way? And yet, many consumers believe they are being good, responsible citizens by remembering to take their wine bottles to the recycling bank – yet that is just a very small part of the overall puzzle. Big business demands have it in their interest to have more harmonised, standard products. Whether it is a standard grape, made into a standard wine and bulk shipped around the world before being bottled nearer to the retail source in identical bottles, there are many economic benefits along the way. It is not just a question of price, certainly many large supermarkets find it easier to handle pallets of a few “standard wines” than lots of smaller boxes of relatively similar but different wines. Is it a balancing act between consumer choice, cost, profit and environmental footprints? You will start thinking about a lot of different things through this book. Maybe you will even start to be sceptical to everything you see and read as it would be oh-so-easy and convenient for “big wine” to push the “environmental benefits” of its mass production but is that the full, true, unexpurgated story? The popularisation or consumerisation of wine is also a blessing and a curse. Previously wine buffs might compare wines within a certain sector, learning as they go along. Now the inexperienced consumer tends to be swayed by a few big “experts” and their ratings, so it is more “important” to select a well-rated wine which becomes perhaps even more popular as a result. Maybe there will be a scandal affecting wine ratings in the future as one has seen with the financial sector. Where there is temptation, there is a risk and is there a risk of the “Emperor’s New Clothes” at play. One’s eyes have been opened through this book (from an amateur perspective) that is for sure. Recommending a book of this type is a difficult thing to do. It is a good book and clearly someone with a professional interest will gain a lot from it and the price is very reasonable for a lot of interesting, if not controversial insights. For the general wine enthusiast or occasional drinker it might be a bit of a hard-going read and the price might be slightly unpalatable (but a worthy loan from a library in any case). It might be fair to say that if you care for an interesting read, about an interesting subject and don’t want to get bogged down with typical “wine talk” that obsesses about a specific grape or vintage, then this could be a great little read. This reviewer is glad that he has had a chance to read this as one doesn’t tend to check out wine books at a bookseller because, on the whole, they are so inwardly-focussed to the taste experience. This book is a LOT more than that, even though the subject has the capability of affecting the eventual taste.
Authentic Wine: Toward Natural and Sustainable Winemaking, written by Jamie Goode & Sam Harrop and published by University of California Press. ISBN 9780520265639, 272 pages. Typical price: USD31.95. YYYYY.
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For avowed wine geeks only, as Goode and Harrop deal with the specifics of viticulture and vinification. But you don't need to be a practicing farmer or winemaker to appreciate their explanations, opinions and narrative. The accessible, friendly writing is free of jargon, the opinions well-reasoned. This is becoming one of my favorite resources to reference for an understanding of the principles of sustainable grape growing and winemaking practices.
Good topical range and survey of the areas that are hotspots of the natural-versus-conventional discussion.
And yet, it seems to shy away from the deeper questions and shifts of process that a natural philosophy would imply. Interesting, but at times it feels like a conventional production apologia.
I have to admit, I skimmed a lot of this book. Information-wise, it probably deserves four stars. But it is dry, dry, dry.
I love that the authors acknowledge a spectrum of "naturalness" in wine, and try to carve out space for large, industrial wine to still be "authentic". I also love their pragmatic stance on sulfur.
There's some great science about winemaking too.
It's the kind of book I'll probably go back and skim again in the future, but man. Dry, dry, dry.