Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear

by Winifred Aldrich

Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer.

In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design now has full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importance of CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses. The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: in particular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how to adapt men’s blocks for women’s wear, and a revision of sizing and labelling information. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.

Genres: Sewing, Fashion, Nonfiction, Reference, Fashion Design, Patternmaking, Crafts

208 pages, Hardcover

First published June 1, 1980

Reviews

[Irene Adler · Rating 5 out of 5]

I borrowed this from my local library to see if I wanted to buy it. And I do. It is a companion volume to 'Metric pattern cutting for womenswear' that I refer to all the time.

This book has been reprinted multiple times since 1980 and it covers flat pattern making, starting with the basic blocks and then variations. This is NOT a sewing book, it is for drafting sewing patterns. If you already understand order of sewing you can subsequently use the patterns for clothing construction, but this is not explained. Clear diagrams but working through the instructions from measurement to pattern takes patience.

Introduction
Design and pattern cutting for menswear
Tools and equipment for constructing patterns - note, this is not a list of sewing equipment, it is solely for pattern drafting
Aliquot parts - I had to look this up, a Latin derived word: in this instance used for the tables that divide circumference measurements eg chest into the fractions used in the patterns (in cm only). So now we all know...
Glossary

Ch 1 - The basic principles - sizing - using the blocks: where to take measurements for use in the drafts (or when drafting using standard production sizes), description of the blocks used and variations, seam allowances and pattern markings

PART 1 - 'FLAT' CUTTING
Ch 2 - The 'flat' blocks - woven and jersey fabrics: 1 and 2 piece trouser for woven or jersey, woven shirt, woven overgarment, tee-shirt and knitwear, knit overgarment, cut on sleeve
Ch 3 - Leisurewear, weatherwear and sportswear: variations on the blocks - casual overgarment, jacket, denim jacket, anorak, t-shirt, polo shirt, raglan top with hood or collar, weatherwear trousers, casual jersey trousers, jean adaptation, combat (cargo) trousers and shorts, boxers, swimming trunks
Ch 4 - Workwear: indoor work jacket or coat, easy fit overjacket or coat, work shirt, dungarees, 1 or 2 piece overalls, work jacket, work trousers
Ch 5 - Nightwear: pyjamas, bathrobe

PART 2 - STANDARD PATTERN CUTTING PROCESSES
Ch 6 - Construction sleeves: dolman, raglan, shaped with back seam, closer fitting cut on sleeve and variations, fitting adjustments, padded shoulders, cuffs
Ch 7 - Constructing openings and collars: front openings (button, zip, strap), collars (standing, cut in one, with revers, flat)

PART 3 - 'FORM' CUTTING - CLASSIC AND CASUAL MENSWEAR
Ch 8 - Classic suit jackets: classic fit, easy fit, two-piece sleeve, lining, waistcoat
Ch 9 - Classic and casual trousers: classic and variations, waistbands
Ch 10 - Classic and casual shirts: classic, tailored, casual, easy fit
Ch 11 - Classic and casual overgarment: basic jacket, easy fit jacket, basic overgarment, easy fit overgarment, 1 or 2 piece sleeves and modifications, adaptations (incl trench coats and dressing gowns)

PART 4 SIZING AND FIT
Ch 12 - Basic grading techniques: grading, should you be interested in manufacturing which I am not
Ch 13 - Drafting and draping the blocks for individual figures - perfecting the fit for individuals

PART 5 - COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN (CAD)
Ch 14 - Computer generated design and pattern making: again, aimed more at manufacturing pattern makers

[Camden Drash · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book basically teaches you everything you need to know about flat pattern drafting for menswear. It doesn't focus on ease as much as I would have liked, but over all I think it's a great book!

[Lara · Rating 1 out of 5]

I found that only some casual clothing pattern are O.K ,

[Ahmedfawzy]

thx

[Khaja Shaif]

nice

[Judi · Rating 4 out of 5]

The definitive book on drafting menswear patterns and still in print.

[Mohit Singh]

cddcdcdcdcdc

[Kristina Devymantru · Rating 5 out of 5]

really helpfull in doing my job