I picked this cookbook up from the library in February after reading a fictional British novel “Hygge and Kisses” in which it was mentioned that British women all learned to cook from Delia. Naturally, having a cookbook collection of 505 books and counting and never having heard of “Delia”, I had to look her up. Thankfully my local library was very obliging and I obtained this illustrated copy of Delia Smith’s complete cookery course…then the cooking commenced.
I poured through the book reading her advice on kitchen tools and little lessons on everything from how to tell if an egg is fresh to how to decorate a Christmas cake. I picked out what I thought was a variety of dishes to try and ended up cooking 10 recipes out of her book.
The end result was a bit of a mixed bag…but I probably could have guessed that might be the case. With the ten recipes tried, only two have the potential for me to keep or make again.
Before I discuss the dishes and my/my husband’s thoughts on them, I want to put a qualifier just in case there are any English individuals reading this review. I do understand that Delia Smith is very beloved and nothing I say is meant to malign her or her character. We all have different tastes and what tastes good to some do not necessarily taste good to all. I am American of Dutch ancestry and I grew up on the west coast of the United States. We are relatively spoiled here where it is just as easy to get Ethiopian food as Thai as Indian as Cambodian as Filipino as Greek as Italian as Southern (American) as Mexican as Puerto Rican as Moroccan as South African as Turkish as Brazilian as East Indian as American Indian as “Australian”, etc. I grew up with a Mom who worked full time and still grew her own sprouts, herbs, etc., Who canned and jammed, Who made homemade yogurt, fruit leather, dried fruit and nuts, and who managed to put a homemade well balanced meal on the table every evening from primarily Whole Foods with little to no preservatives or processing. We might just as easily have a fresh mixed green salad with steak as a falafel sandwich on homemade pita. My husband who is very American, with British Isle ancestry grew up eating a lot of processed foods and short-cut meals…and ate things like shepherds pie (something I had never eaten until my in-laws had made it for me) often. I have never been to the British Isles, so my knowledge of British food is based on my experiences in Canada, Australia and New Zealand. There I have experienced meat pies and mashy peas…and been somewhat horrified by the over cooking of vegetables and the lack of herbs and spices…and well..flavor. I say all of that to preface my review with, it is possible that British food is possibly not to my taste.
The first recipe that I selected was Delia’s Carbonnade de bœf á la flammande: this is long slow cooked beef dish that is finished by topping with bread and melted Gruyère. The presentation of the dish is rustic and nice, but both my husband and I found that while the beef was tender and tasted good the accompanying sauce was a real miss for us. I would rather use my chuck roast in Cook’s Illustrated’s classic pot roast…which is even simpler and ends with a sauce that has amazing flavor.
Recipe #2 was Chicken with Whole Spices on page 176. This was billed as “authentically Indian but with homemade freshness”. This was fairly easy to make, but shockingly even with all of the fresh spices used my husband and I found this dish to be incredibly bland. This was a very watered down dish with very little hints of Indian spice.
Recipe #3 was one of the big winners: Simple Stroganoff on page 152. This really was a classic beef stroganoff and my husband and I enjoyed the flavors brought by the tanginess of the sour cream’s addition to this creamy sauce. I used crimini mushrooms and a Pinot Grigio by Alverdi Terre Degliosci 2020. Simple ingredients, easy to put together resulting in a tangy yet creamy sauce that can be served over rice or pasta. We liked this dish so much that I have actually made it twice and is a recipe that I will keep in my collection. We have now had it over both rice and egg noodles and we preferred it over rice. (Side note: I have worked at three major hospitals in my career all of which make variations of a beef stroganoff in their cafeterias, this is my only experience with this dish and I know hospitals aren’t known for their cuisine, but this is a dish that is tolerable at all three hospitals. Having said that, this recipe is far better than anything I have tasted thus far.)
Recipe #4 Pan Fried Pizza page 370: This was a quick and easy to make recipe that gets you a small personal size pizza on the stove top…although I finished ours in the oven on my pizza tray (although I suppose I could have used my pizza stone as well). Chris and I both thought the dough was a little heavy, which may have been due to me over kneading in the incorporation process. I would keep looking for a better pan fried pizza dough.
Recipe #5 Scotch Broth on page 70: this is essentially a lamb stew. Chris (my husband) thought It was very bland. He thought the lamb was the best part but he prefers the way I do lamb (the Greek way) and he did not care for the cabbage and leek…or as he put it the “green and grey vegetables”. I agreed on the dish being very bland. It was easy to make and it makes a huge portion. I prefer all of my squash soups for winter stomach warmers.
Recipe #6 I modified her Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie on page279 slightly by substituting 1 pound ground grass fed beef for her 6 ounces lentils and 4 ounces split peas. Also I used Greek seasoning and India red pepper flake. Chris thought this was very interesting and he liked the flavor combination. He had never had heat or tomatoes in his shepherd’s pie before and he ended up liking both.
Recipe #7 Pizza Dough: Both Chris and I liked this pizza dough, although I am still looking for a better one. Some notes…add olive oil on the bottom otherwise it sticks to pizza tray and continue searching for a better yeast the Platinum Red Star Active Yeast adds a sweetness to this recipe that I would like to get rid of.
Recipe #8 Moussaka: This was the other big winner that we tried. Chris is not a fan of eggplant (aubergine for you Brits) and he said it was better than he thought it was going to be. “The lamb was delicious with the beschamel sauce, it helped cover up the flavor of eggplant. No bad bites!” I used organic graffiti eggplant and you really only need one large or two medium to line the bottom of a baking dish. I thought this was surprisingly flavorful and a great way to use eggplant.
The last recipe I want to mention is #9: Young Carrots with Tarragon Butter page 214. This is a simple recipe and if you like butter and tarragon can add variety to the way you serve carrots.
My overall review for this cookbook is don’t necessarily come expecting a lot of recipes to add to your arsenal, but do come expecting to learn techniques and some tidbits of cooking knowledge. (If your tastes fall to the blander side, you may glean more recipes than I did.)