In a small town in southern Sichuan — Xianshi, known for its critical position in imperial China’s salt trade — most women still live in the oppression of poverty and patriarchy. They don’t know if there is an alternative. Waves of China’s economic liberalization since the 1980s have invigorated many cities and towns from the coast to the hinterland seem to have skipped this place, forgetting that it once was a prosperous place of commerce. The passionate debates of women’s rights among the highly educated in Shanghai and Beijing hardly reach the remote, impoverished towns and villages like Xianshi, nor can such debate point to an alternative ecosystem of livelihood without completely uprooting the women from their hometown network on which their whole lives depend. Awareness of self-protection is scant among these women. Even where awareness emerges, it appears in the humble desire for a life without imminent hunger, beating, and the worry of the return to poverty should illness come knock on the door.
The seven miles between the “salt town” and the “salt city,” Zigong, of 2.5 million residents, form a seemingly impassable abyss between “ancient” and “modern,” mobility and immobility, hope and despair. From the 90-year-olds to teenagers, women in this “salt town” do everything possible in the field, the market, and at home to keep themselves and their children alive while the men — fathers, brothers, and husbands — play mahjong, drink alcohol, smoke cigarettes, beat their wives, swindle one another, and spend every last penny on gambling. Like a curse that cannot be lifted, divorce is unthinkable. And the inability to bear (male) descendants invites hostility and hate from the in-laws, even if it was repeated forced abortion during the One Child Policy decades. Young women fantasizing quick money and romance are lured by their boyfriends and boyfriends’ friends into sex work. Orphans are left uncared for and dream of their dead parents. Talented students give up their studies to support families; occasionally their high grades are stolen by officials to send their own children to better schools, breaking the last straw of hope. Adult women drown each other in the gossip of their fortune and speculated affairs. With the nationwide criminalization of sex work, an elderly woman gets jailed after a long life in extreme poverty and hard work for running a cheap brothel, which plugged her sole income to provide for herself and the poor women who offered service. Working women find themselves circling between impasses and insecurity and trapped in loveless marriages that bring more blows and kicks than comfort and stability. Still few escaped such fates.
How does one write about these women’s lives without depriving them of their native context, another deprivation they didn’t ask for? What becomes of the writer through writing such lives and their hostile environments?
These are fundamental anthropological and educational questions. As the anthropologist Tim Ingold reminds us, in the light broader than discipline, anthropology is essentially educational, and education, likewise, is essentially anthropological. Both are ultimately about being human and “human becoming” through communication. In writing about the Xianshi women, Yi Xiaohe, a Zigong native, exemplifies this “anthropology as education” philosophy. Leaving Shanghai after the pandemic lockdown, Yi spent over a year in Xianshi, living with and interviewing the women there, many of whom repeated the life cycles of their mothers, grandmothers, great grandmothers, and all the women generations back. She was moved by their genuineness, their open doors, as much as their insecurity that had swept the town like an epidemic since time immemorial. Not trusting others, let alone a well-educated outsider whose profession didn’t make much sense to them, was coded in their DNA. It was a way of self-preservation, but still far from a talisman that could shut harm out of the door. The women shrank from being documented, remembered, and heard by people they would never know and in cities that they would never visit.
In return, rather than a database built out of ethnographic research, these women’s voluntary and forced closure became live and palpable to Yi, pulling her into their worlds. Letting herself open up to those worlds, Yi nurtured an awareness of the seven miles between her native city and Xianshi that could not be flattened into a deficiency or development theory — even the judgment of the presence and absence of “feminist” consciousness falls into such binary and linear logic of the enlightened and the savage. What came out of the year-long research, which Yi literally enacted in the Ingold manner as “search and search again and again,” was not “scientific findings” that supplied for the disciplinary territoriality of either anthropology or education, but rather a “correspondence,” an existential togetherness that is radical without turning political, between herself and the spatial and temporal folds of Xianshi. Life carries on even though grace is absent, and so, thankfully, does this generous and generative correspondence that has invited many readers into the undercommons of the salt town.
A place where time stands still, and domestic abuse is a norm. This is a bleak yet powerful portrayal of endurance, resistance, and the harsh realities many women face in a deeply patriarchal society. A shared thread among these women is the pursuit of independence—both financial and emotional. In an environment shaped by control and oppression, financial independence becomes not just empowering but essential. So does the ability to fiercely protect oneself.
How women in small town China gain small independences even through oppressive lives — current and past. Thought it was really insightful and enjoyed reading a book about non-tier 1/2/3 city women’s lives.
Dialect was SUPER heavy for me so I def missed some nuances but I love when authors write in the dialect instead of standard !
The article contains some repetitions, but perhaps it is also intentional on the part of the author. The endless cycle of suffering for women and the marginalized, the hell within our world...