Hidden among the streets of St. Louis’s south side are stories that span centuries. In the wake of COVID-19, author and journalist Jim Merkel set out on a walk that would take him block-by-block through the tales of history and community in South City. Completing the walk incrementally, Merkel ponders the ways in which the area has changed over time. Along the way, he interviews some of the unique characters and leaders who help maintain the city, encounters quirky stores and restaurants, and enjoys beautiful scenery in parks and on restored streets. Most of all, he finds hope in the underdogs, in the neighborhoods that have come back to life after decades of decline, and in the people whose love for their homes and their neighbors remains steadfast despite everything.
The South Side is many things, but most importantly, it is a place where neighbors gather often, where people come together in hardship, and where small businesses and authenticity thrive. In Walking South City, Merkel crafts a thorough depiction of the area, with respect for the past and hope for the future. Grab your walking shoes, follow along, and get ready to look at South City in a way you never have before.
Not to sound conceited but I’m pretty sure this book was written for me. I live in South St. Louis and this year I decided to walk every day. Somewhere along the way I decided to walk every street in my neighborhood, then in all the neighborhoods that touch my neighborhood and then to just keep going.
Like Merkel, I notice things. I learn about the history. I find trails with meaning. I read this book on the 10th anniversary of me moving to St. Louis and while I still feel like a recent transplant, reading this book reminded me of just how much I know of this city. Sure, I don’t know the history of living here all my life but Merkel was happy to share his recollections. I remembered my neighbor telling me of riding his bike to a spot just as the author brought up a similar kind of adventure. I would see a mention of Henry Shaw and I’d think negatively of Shaw and his part in slavery only for the author to immediately make the same point I was thinking. Even with more recent events, like his walk down Arsenal to Kingshighway, I remembered vividly the helicopters of the day of the CVPA shooting just before seeing his naming of the victims. It made me feel like I had found a kindred spirit, like I was walking alongside him.
Merkel described the charm and pain points so similarly to how I see it but in a way I often struggle to communicate. As I near 700 miles in STL this year, I can’t help but view this as a love letter to our city in a special moment in time.