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Lahore: A Sentimental Journey
Author's memoirs about Lahore during 1930-1940.
347 pages, Paperback
First published August 1, 1993
43 people are currently reading
379 people want to read
About the author
Pran Nevile
16 books10 followersPran Nevile is an Indian author of Indian Art, Indian Culture & Indian History best known for the 1992 book, Lahore - A Sentimental Journey.
His fascination with the performing arts inspired him to spend nearly seven years researching in the libraries and museums of England and the U.S.A. to enable him produce the sumptuously illustrated 'Nautch Girls of India' in 1996. Highly acclaimed by the media it was considered to be a pioneering work on the subject of dance and music as well as their practitioners through the centuries.
Nevile has written extensively for Indian newspapers and journals. He is the author of other well known books such as 'Lahore - A Sentimental Journey', 'Love Stories from the Raj', 'Rare Glimpses of the Raj', 'Beyond the Veil - Indian Women in the Raj', 'Stories form the Raj - Sahibs,' Memsahibs and others', K.L. Saigal - Immortal singer and superstar and lastly 'Marvels of Indian Painting - Rise and Demise of Company School'.
Nevile has been invited by several institutions in India and also universities in England and U.S.A. to speak on themes related to Indian art and culture. He has also acted as a consultant for two BBC documentaries on the Raj viz. 'Ruling Passions' and 'The Land of Kamasutra'.
His fascination with the performing arts inspired him to spend nearly seven years researching in the libraries and museums of England and the U.S.A. to enable him produce the sumptuously illustrated 'Nautch Girls of India' in 1996. Highly acclaimed by the media it was considered to be a pioneering work on the subject of dance and music as well as their practitioners through the centuries.
Nevile has written extensively for Indian newspapers and journals. He is the author of other well known books such as 'Lahore - A Sentimental Journey', 'Love Stories from the Raj', 'Rare Glimpses of the Raj', 'Beyond the Veil - Indian Women in the Raj', 'Stories form the Raj - Sahibs,' Memsahibs and others', K.L. Saigal - Immortal singer and superstar and lastly 'Marvels of Indian Painting - Rise and Demise of Company School'.
Nevile has been invited by several institutions in India and also universities in England and U.S.A. to speak on themes related to Indian art and culture. He has also acted as a consultant for two BBC documentaries on the Raj viz. 'Ruling Passions' and 'The Land of Kamasutra'.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews
November 27, 2017
رضوان یاسین نے یہ کتاب بھجوائی تھی۔ اسے پڑھنے سے معلوم ہوا کہ یہ جو ہمیں چلتے پھرتے لوگ ملتے ہیں کہ میری جیب کٹ گئی ہے، کرایہ نہیں ہے کچھ پیسے دے دیں۔ یہ ڈرامہ بازی تقریبا" ایک سو سال پرانی ہے۔
August 1, 2020
An ex-Lahori’s reminiscences of the Lahore of 1930s and 40s, which the author recalls on his visit to Lahore after 50 years. The prose is resplendent with nostalgia and deep-etched wanderings down the memory lane. While I struggled to read the Punjabi words, slangs and verses which are there on almost every page, the otherwise literary style is fluent and eminent. From shopping in Anarkali to visiting prominent places of Lahore in a tonga, kite flying to Cinema life, romance on the housetops to the splendid nights of red-light area, food and drinks to picnic and outings, It was good to read about the everyday life of Lahore when it was in a transformation phase, through the eyes of a Hindu who has given a tribute to the land of his birth.
July 22, 2018
Pran Nevile’s memoir “Lahore: A Sentimental Journey” takes us back to the pre-partition days of Lahore. In this touching throw-back of the city, Nevile vividly depicts the lifestyle of time through a range of themes ranging from customs and traditions to religion and politics. It is heartwarming to know how various institutions have transformed and transgressed with time, representing the city as an ever-changing one.
As he throws light on the pluralistic setting of time, it comes as no surprise to me that various religious groups (mainly Hindu, sikh and Muslim) coincided happily. While he mentions that the city was divided into Hindu and Muslim neighbourhoods with a few pockets where the two communities lived together, he specifies that these communities mixed freely and enjoyed cordial relations, subscribing to a composite culture which blossomed at the time. It may be just to say, that communal misunderstandings and riots which were predominant in various parts of India serving as a basis for the demand of an independent Pakistan were not a major factor here.
While praising the liberal lifestyle of Lahoris, he recalls of a ride on the Thandi Sarak (Sundardas Road in a Tonga), where he sees “sahibs and memsahibs perched in their motorcars driven by native chauffeurs, their pet dogs lolling they tongues through the windows” and reminds that his cousins were “dazed to see some beautiful young girls riding cycles and overtaking our slow-moving tonga. While recalling the bars and restaurants of time, he mentions, “the leading restaurants at Anarkali were Kailash, Sher-e-Punjab, Imperial and Standard, which had rows of cubicles with drawn curtains to enable the patrons to enjoy their drinks in privacy, those were the days when a bottle of Tennant’s, Alsoppo’s or Japanese Asahi beer cost less than a rupee and a chhota peg of Scotch and soda, ten annas”.
The Lahoris of time were known for their good nature, hospitality and generosity. While depicting the shopping culture at Anarkali, he mentions, “Shopping here did not necessarily mean you had to buy anything, shopkeepers would spend hours showing you their wares as if it were a matter of pride for them”. The warmth and hospitality of the locals was most evident at the principal fairs and melas of Lahore that were Baisakhi, Bhadarkali, Basant, Dussehra, Chairagan and Kadman, where families hosted their friends relatives for generous feasts. At the Basant, there would be shouts of ‘Bo Kata’ with fireworks and people would crowd up on the rooftops with lights, do Bhangra dance along with the beats of double drums by professional drummers.
As the title of his chapter “The Changing World of Women” may suggest, he throws special light on the changes the status of women. He mentions the importance of anti-Tawaif campaign in enhancing the status of women from mere courtesans in Kothas to respectable wives." While the trend of matrimonial advertisements gradually took place, marriage became necessary “even if it was not made in heaven and was practically the only career for women”. The British colonialists brought along with them different fashion trends, changing the way women dressed up, but at the same time sparking resentment by the older generation who he quotes as, “Ena fashion ne sanu mar dita sajna, Ena fashionan ne”. Similarly, women were encouraged to receive eduction in English, something uncommon in the past which too was resisted by the elders who said, “Padh angrezi rudhian kudian desh diyan, Chhad Chhad kataban Adhi wale boot juraban. Hath with chhatrian phadian - kudian desh diyan. Roti da oh dang na janan, Kam kaj nun hath na lavan, Ajab udari udhian - kudian desh diyan” (Study of English has ruined the girls of our country. The read books, wear heeled shoes and stockings; and carry umbrellas in their hands- oh the girls of country. The know not the art of cooking; they shirk doing any household work and are following strange ways- oh the girls of our country).
His account portrays the lighter side of life in Lahore over half a century ago, where there was hustle and bustle, merry-making and excitement wherever one looked with people of all ages standing, staring and amusing themselves. Here, it was easy to lose oneself in amazement at this splendour, tumult and commotion. However, he mentions there is a burning desire among the ageing generations of Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims to visit the land of their birth across the border. Young Punjabis are greatly keen to visit these places, not only to satisfy their curiosity but also interact with their ethnic counterparts on the other side, where their forefathers lived together, enjoying pluralism. Being a retired Indian career diplomat himself, Nevile suggests that the governments of India and Pakistan must give due consideration to the issue and initiate suitable steps to facilitate visits on both sides.
As he throws light on the pluralistic setting of time, it comes as no surprise to me that various religious groups (mainly Hindu, sikh and Muslim) coincided happily. While he mentions that the city was divided into Hindu and Muslim neighbourhoods with a few pockets where the two communities lived together, he specifies that these communities mixed freely and enjoyed cordial relations, subscribing to a composite culture which blossomed at the time. It may be just to say, that communal misunderstandings and riots which were predominant in various parts of India serving as a basis for the demand of an independent Pakistan were not a major factor here.
While praising the liberal lifestyle of Lahoris, he recalls of a ride on the Thandi Sarak (Sundardas Road in a Tonga), where he sees “sahibs and memsahibs perched in their motorcars driven by native chauffeurs, their pet dogs lolling they tongues through the windows” and reminds that his cousins were “dazed to see some beautiful young girls riding cycles and overtaking our slow-moving tonga. While recalling the bars and restaurants of time, he mentions, “the leading restaurants at Anarkali were Kailash, Sher-e-Punjab, Imperial and Standard, which had rows of cubicles with drawn curtains to enable the patrons to enjoy their drinks in privacy, those were the days when a bottle of Tennant’s, Alsoppo’s or Japanese Asahi beer cost less than a rupee and a chhota peg of Scotch and soda, ten annas”.
The Lahoris of time were known for their good nature, hospitality and generosity. While depicting the shopping culture at Anarkali, he mentions, “Shopping here did not necessarily mean you had to buy anything, shopkeepers would spend hours showing you their wares as if it were a matter of pride for them”. The warmth and hospitality of the locals was most evident at the principal fairs and melas of Lahore that were Baisakhi, Bhadarkali, Basant, Dussehra, Chairagan and Kadman, where families hosted their friends relatives for generous feasts. At the Basant, there would be shouts of ‘Bo Kata’ with fireworks and people would crowd up on the rooftops with lights, do Bhangra dance along with the beats of double drums by professional drummers.
As the title of his chapter “The Changing World of Women” may suggest, he throws special light on the changes the status of women. He mentions the importance of anti-Tawaif campaign in enhancing the status of women from mere courtesans in Kothas to respectable wives." While the trend of matrimonial advertisements gradually took place, marriage became necessary “even if it was not made in heaven and was practically the only career for women”. The British colonialists brought along with them different fashion trends, changing the way women dressed up, but at the same time sparking resentment by the older generation who he quotes as, “Ena fashion ne sanu mar dita sajna, Ena fashionan ne”. Similarly, women were encouraged to receive eduction in English, something uncommon in the past which too was resisted by the elders who said, “Padh angrezi rudhian kudian desh diyan, Chhad Chhad kataban Adhi wale boot juraban. Hath with chhatrian phadian - kudian desh diyan. Roti da oh dang na janan, Kam kaj nun hath na lavan, Ajab udari udhian - kudian desh diyan” (Study of English has ruined the girls of our country. The read books, wear heeled shoes and stockings; and carry umbrellas in their hands- oh the girls of country. The know not the art of cooking; they shirk doing any household work and are following strange ways- oh the girls of our country).
His account portrays the lighter side of life in Lahore over half a century ago, where there was hustle and bustle, merry-making and excitement wherever one looked with people of all ages standing, staring and amusing themselves. Here, it was easy to lose oneself in amazement at this splendour, tumult and commotion. However, he mentions there is a burning desire among the ageing generations of Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims to visit the land of their birth across the border. Young Punjabis are greatly keen to visit these places, not only to satisfy their curiosity but also interact with their ethnic counterparts on the other side, where their forefathers lived together, enjoying pluralism. Being a retired Indian career diplomat himself, Nevile suggests that the governments of India and Pakistan must give due consideration to the issue and initiate suitable steps to facilitate visits on both sides.
December 19, 2020
This book was Pran Nevile’s Pilgrimage to the past - to the city of his birth where he spent his childhood and youth before the partition of 1947. Decades later, a chance meeting with a Lahori in Switzerland triggered a maelstrom of nostalgia that prompted him to write this book.
This book is in no way a early 20th century biography of the city of Lahore. Rather it is a romantic retelling of the city Pran grew up on and fondly remembered. Pran in his own words belongs the the fading pre-partition generations that were forced to leave their homeland but carry it in their hears like the cherished memories of first love. He writes fondly on multiple topics such as shopping in Anarkali, Tonga Rides on mall road, splendors of Heera Mandi, early cinema, changing world of women, food, drinks, clothes, government college, transport and politics.
In some ways Pran’s Lahore still survives in the culture of local festival celebrations, cuisines, and arts. Its public spaces remain as masculine as they were back in the 30’s and 40’s. But in so many ways the idyllic syncretistic Lahore of pre-partition is no longer there. Most traces of its non-Muslim past have faded away over time and it has witnessed occasional violence over the years against its minorities. Regardless it is a heartwarming and beautiful journey into the past. This is a book our parents and grandparents will enjoy even more. There is noting more powerful than a text evoking long forgotten memories.
Pran ends the book with a chapter on his first visit back to Lahore, 40 years after the partition which opens a whole floodgate of memories. He meets some of his old friends reminiscing their shared past. He goes on a self guided tour of the old city finding traces of his childhood haunts in the bazaars. Pran has been invited to Lahore multiple time over the years to talk at conferences. He ends the book with
‘I hope Lahore will continue calling me’
Through his book on Lahore, it is not the story of the city that is learned but the story of Pran Nevile, a story that came to an end when he died in 2018, days short of his 96th birthday
This book is in no way a early 20th century biography of the city of Lahore. Rather it is a romantic retelling of the city Pran grew up on and fondly remembered. Pran in his own words belongs the the fading pre-partition generations that were forced to leave their homeland but carry it in their hears like the cherished memories of first love. He writes fondly on multiple topics such as shopping in Anarkali, Tonga Rides on mall road, splendors of Heera Mandi, early cinema, changing world of women, food, drinks, clothes, government college, transport and politics.
In some ways Pran’s Lahore still survives in the culture of local festival celebrations, cuisines, and arts. Its public spaces remain as masculine as they were back in the 30’s and 40’s. But in so many ways the idyllic syncretistic Lahore of pre-partition is no longer there. Most traces of its non-Muslim past have faded away over time and it has witnessed occasional violence over the years against its minorities. Regardless it is a heartwarming and beautiful journey into the past. This is a book our parents and grandparents will enjoy even more. There is noting more powerful than a text evoking long forgotten memories.
Pran ends the book with a chapter on his first visit back to Lahore, 40 years after the partition which opens a whole floodgate of memories. He meets some of his old friends reminiscing their shared past. He goes on a self guided tour of the old city finding traces of his childhood haunts in the bazaars. Pran has been invited to Lahore multiple time over the years to talk at conferences. He ends the book with
‘I hope Lahore will continue calling me’
Through his book on Lahore, it is not the story of the city that is learned but the story of Pran Nevile, a story that came to an end when he died in 2018, days short of his 96th birthday
April 10, 2020
For anyone in love with the city of Lahore (like me. I mean can you even help it?), it's a sweet read. It's not the best prose I have read, but then again there aren't a whole lot of literary treasures to pick from if you want to read about cities and their culture in recent history in subcontinent. It lends perspective to the Lahore that existed before we did - pre-partition - so not so far back in time that we are unable to relate but far enough to appreciate the customs that existed back then and the end of which we saw during our lifetime. Basant, certain wedding traditions, women biking freely on the roads (I wish I was born in that era...), cultural/music nights happening at an amphitheater in Lawrence Gardens and most importantly, Hindus and Muslims living in complete harmony - so a sweet, nostalgic picture of Lahore. The writing style is a bit amateur and the book is organized such that each chapter talks about a particular aspect of living in that city so it's easy to navigate and makes for a fun afternoon read with chai.
December 14, 2024
(this review is not kind... please look away!)
i picked up this book due to my adoration for its subject, the city of lahore... i had hoped to read about my city from a different time, prose drenched in romanticism over the day-to-day life of living here. while that was achieved to a certain extent, i came to start dreading this book well before i was even a quarter of the way into it. the writer came off as INCREDIBLY unlikeable. often, the descriptions of lahore were tarnished by the writer's own experiences, & while that could've been executed beautifully, it carried with it undertones of judgement & perversion. there was an unshakeable sexual undertone in so many of the chapters, it left me feeling uncomfortable... while i understand it's a part of life, i feel like the author's inclusions of it came less from a perspective of descriptive accuracy, more of a perspective of someone who felt sexually deprived. i know that sounds harsh, but that truly is the impression the writer made. these two stars were given purely because of my love for the city of lahore, but the author's writer style & content often left much to be desired...
i picked up this book due to my adoration for its subject, the city of lahore... i had hoped to read about my city from a different time, prose drenched in romanticism over the day-to-day life of living here. while that was achieved to a certain extent, i came to start dreading this book well before i was even a quarter of the way into it. the writer came off as INCREDIBLY unlikeable. often, the descriptions of lahore were tarnished by the writer's own experiences, & while that could've been executed beautifully, it carried with it undertones of judgement & perversion. there was an unshakeable sexual undertone in so many of the chapters, it left me feeling uncomfortable... while i understand it's a part of life, i feel like the author's inclusions of it came less from a perspective of descriptive accuracy, more of a perspective of someone who felt sexually deprived. i know that sounds harsh, but that truly is the impression the writer made. these two stars were given purely because of my love for the city of lahore, but the author's writer style & content often left much to be desired...
April 12, 2017
Brilliant book that beautifully captures the lifes and times that Lahore once saw in the pre-partition days. How it was a cultural hub and how it prospered in trade, education and the arts. Interesting chapters include that on the history of the place including several emperors and raiders, Hira Mandi, Fazal Ali - the ace pimp of Lahore, a chapter devoted to the sights and bazaars of yore, visit of K.L. Saigal to Lahore, a chapter on ''Zinda Naach va Gaana''. The book carries an earthy flavour that is clearly evident. It also captures the pain and tribulations of partition and an account of the authors post-partition visit to Lahore, the changes and similarities he notices. Towards the end, the book carries lyrics of famous songs of those days that capture the prevalent mood of those times. Overall a brilliant read for those who cant visit the city but are sentimentally attached to its thoughts and its name.
One of the interesting sayings that i loved from the book - ''Khain kanak (wheat) chahe bhuggi (moth-eaten) hoe, Rahiye Lahore chahe jhuggi hoe"
One of the interesting sayings that i loved from the book - ''Khain kanak (wheat) chahe bhuggi (moth-eaten) hoe, Rahiye Lahore chahe jhuggi hoe"
March 24, 2012
It was a roller coaster ride to a city that has lured me ever since I learnt about it. Neville gives a vivid description of the culture and society of pre-partitioned times of Lahore. Its a good read!
July 26, 2015
Very well written. Even though I have never been to lahore i felt i was there- living in lahore in 1930s.
It was a goodread.
It was a goodread.
May 3, 2017
it is very good book by this book I knew that Lahore is a culturally city this book is page turner I finished this book within 3 hours
June 20, 2019
A must read about Lahore before independence.
June 13, 2021
Desi uncle writes about his problematic yet nostalgic memories about Lahore in a typical perverted misogynistic manner. We love to see it.
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November 12, 2023jine lahore nai vekhya o jamya-e-ni
I’ve had been hearing this phrase ever since I’ve gained consciousness, but what this truly means, I felt that when I got admission in AIMC and spent my young adulthood there. Lahore has a big heart and it makes everyone feel welcome there. So having spent a good enough time there from the hostels of Allama Iqbal Medical College to the Neela Gumbad ki ice cream cone aur GC ki gothic building, Feekay ki Lassi aur Lakshmi Chowk ki Karahi, art conossieurs ka Alhamra aur Khoosat sahiba ka olomopolo, township ki 1 dollar shop aur IMAX ka soundsystem, zinda dilaanon ka Emporium aur hm hostellites ki kareem market, Mughlon ki Badshahi Masjid aur sheesh mahal and Lahore Fort, Shalamar garden ki chehal qadmi aur Lawrence Gardens ki batkhien aur Jinnah Library, Faiz k festivals sy Lahore Literature Festivals tk Lahore Lahore hai.
Aur issi Lahore sy mahabbat krne walay aik aur shakhs ki yaadon k baray mein janne k lye mjhe ye kitaab pasand ayi, LAHORE; A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY by Pran Neville.
Pran Neville was an Indian author who wrote about Lahore, the city of his birth, where he spent his childhood and youth before the partition of 1947. His memoir, Lahore: A Sentimental Journey, was first published in 1993 Neville vividly depicts Lahore as it was in the 1930s and 40s. He writes about the city's rich culture and traditions, its food and festivals, its people and places. He also writes about the pain and loss of partition, and the longing for home that many displaced people experienced.
As I read further in the book I thought about the places and things Mr Neville mentioned, at the time they were the epitome of their own class, the Nanda Bus Service and Bhalla Shoe Co, replaced and forgotten. I think about K. L. Saigal the household name in all of the subcontinent and I think of all the celebrities and index100 companies we look at so much awe with, they too will be taken by the tide of time. It’s fine to celebrate the iconic businesses and celebrities of our time, but it is also important to remember that they are just one part of a larger story. The human spirit is resilient, and it will always find new ways to express itself. I’m also reminded of the spirit of Lahoris for the people might have been replaced but the spirit remains, the hustle bustle remains, the love for food and culture and incorporating the new with the old a touch of western with the eastern fashion was apparent in the Lahore of Neville and the Lahore I saw. The indescribable feeling of being a part of such a huge and culturally rich city and its monuments I felt the same whenever I visited those historical places, as Mr Neville did about a century ago.
I got to know about numerous things like the role of Lahore and Lahoris in WWII and the multicultural harmony which sadly doesn’t exist anymore, about the changing customs and how people always romanticize their past and will continue to do so.
Till I write a book about the Lahore of my youth
this is a must read for all Lahore Lovers for Lahore Lahore hay and as one of my professors at AIMC, Dr Fakhar says; ‘Ye Jo Lahore Sy Muhabbat Hai, Ye Kisi Aur Sy Muhabbat Hai’
September 24, 2025
Born and mostly-raised in Lahore I, like every other Lahori, am in love with the metropolis that is the heart of Punjab. Now that I no longer live in Lahore, I often find myself feeling homesick and yearning for the busy streets, vibrant markets, and welcoming people.
It was amazing to read about the culture and landmarks of Lahore from pre-partition. Although at some points, I do feel like the author’s experiences are not representative of the average Lahori then, since he lived in a Hindi neighborhood and mostly socialized with them. At one point I felt like he was deliberately erasing Muslim and Sikh communities in his retelling but it might have been the political climate that forced him to live in his own bubble.
I jumped into this book based solely on the title and did not read the blurb, hence I was shocked when I realized there were several chapters in the book dedicated to the author’s escapades, anecdotes he had heard, and gossip which seldom had anything to do with the city itself. For example, the adulterous love affair between his neighbors, the government officer whose house help basically gave herself over as a sex slave, and the pimp at Heera Mandi trying to reel in new clients.
I did not like the language he used to describe some of the prostitutes and some of the writing came off as lazy or like it belonged in a middle schooler’s essay on his hometown. But the chapters about Mall Road and Government College were especially pleasant because of how familiar they are to me.
It was amazing to read about the culture and landmarks of Lahore from pre-partition. Although at some points, I do feel like the author’s experiences are not representative of the average Lahori then, since he lived in a Hindi neighborhood and mostly socialized with them. At one point I felt like he was deliberately erasing Muslim and Sikh communities in his retelling but it might have been the political climate that forced him to live in his own bubble.
I jumped into this book based solely on the title and did not read the blurb, hence I was shocked when I realized there were several chapters in the book dedicated to the author’s escapades, anecdotes he had heard, and gossip which seldom had anything to do with the city itself. For example, the adulterous love affair between his neighbors, the government officer whose house help basically gave herself over as a sex slave, and the pimp at Heera Mandi trying to reel in new clients.
I did not like the language he used to describe some of the prostitutes and some of the writing came off as lazy or like it belonged in a middle schooler’s essay on his hometown. But the chapters about Mall Road and Government College were especially pleasant because of how familiar they are to me.
March 16, 2019
“Situated on the banks of the river Ravi, famous in history as the camping ground for the early Aryans, Lahore was founded, according to popular tradition, by Lava or Loh, one of the twin sons of Lord Rama, King of Ayodhya, the epic hero of the Ramayana. The other son, Kush, is said to have founded the neighboring town of Kusawar or Kasur. Lahore means the “Fort of Loh.” The first syllable perpetuates the Hindu tradition, and the second, awar, is derived from the Sanskrit awarun, meaning a ‘fort’ or ‘enclosure.’ The time when Valmiki composed his celebrated epic, the Ramayana, is unknown. Hindus attribute it to the Satu Yuga or the age of righteousness, which they place several thousand years ago. Western historians, on the other hand, believe the personages in the Ramayana existed between the sixth and sixteenth century BC. From this it appears that Lahore is one of the oldest cities in the world.” Pg: xii
“For two centuries the Hindu rulers of Lahore gallantly withstood the Muslim onslaught, preventing the invader from advancing further into the country.” Pg: xiii
Nur Jahan’s Grave Epitaph (written by her):
Upon my grave when I die,
No lamp shall burn nor jasmine be,
No candle with unsteady flame,
No bulbul chanting overheard
Shall tell the world that I am dead.
“The most valued gift of the Raj was the freedom it gave to its subjects to practice and preach their own religions. All mosques, including the Badshahi Mosque, which has been taken over by the Sikh rulers and converted into workshops, were restored to the Muslims of Lahore. The shrines and tombs of saints, which had been abandoned for fear of repression by the authorities, regained their importance and patronage. The mausoleum of Data Ganj Bux, the patron saint of Lahore, once again attracted worshippers from all communities who went there to seek blessings for the fulfilment of their wishes. The British Rah was a welcome change after the “Sikha Shahi,” a term denoting arbitrary rule. The older generations praised the ‘Angrezi Raj diyan barkatan’ (Blessings of the British rule) with genuine feelings of gratitude.
The British rulers took active steps to safeguard and preserve old monuments and buildings of national interest and historical value. It is amusing to recall that the famous landmark of Lahore, the Anarkali tomb, had served so many purposes.” Pg: xviii
“The most novel experiment made in housing schemes was the development of a modern township named Model Town, about six miles from Lahore. Here, the houses were mostly owned by retired government officials, many of whom had during their service earned titles of Rai Sahib, Khan Sahib, Sardar Sahib, Rai Bahadur, Khan Bahadur and Sardar Bahadur.” Pg: xix
“Lahore by now had acquired the reputation of being the Paris of India. Fashion ruled the life of its people whose lifestyles, habits and customs were considered to be most admirable. It had also become the nucleus of commerce and politics.” Pg: xix
“The British brought Urdu with them from the United Provinces. Hindi in the Devnagari script came later through the influence of Arya communities as a means of communication.
While the majority of the city population was Muslim, very few Muslims were engaged in business, civil services and the professions. It was only after the government’s job reservation policy came into force that the number of Muslims in the services increased. Muslims constituted the majority of workers and artisans, being either employed in craft industries or in factories owned by Hindus. However, they controlled the fruit and vegetable markets, milk supply, furniture shops, tent manufacture and the tailoring business. There was also a sizeable Muslim landed aristocracy that owed its wealth and status to the British government. The Hindus were known to be frugal by nature. They piled up money but often gave much of it to charities. The Muslims had the reputation of being less charitable but also less miserly. Wealth to them was a passing show to be enjoyed while it lasted but not to be held on to. On the whole, the Lahorias were quite free spenders and liked to lead a good life.” Pg: xxiv
“The venue of all political meetings and public conferences in the city was the famous Mochi Gate, which was to Lahore what Hyde Park Corner was to London. This site was witness to a whole galaxy of political, social and religious leaders rousing their audiences to a pitch of excitement. Almost every other evening, the venue echoed with the thunderous slogans and cries of ‘Inqilab Zindabad’ (Long live Revolution). It was here that great mushairas (poetic symposiums) were also held. Here, the most eminent poet of his time, Mohammad Iqbal, is said to have recited his Jawab-i-Shikwa. The place was also a favorite haunt of petty traders, hawkers, magicians, snake charmers, quacks, swindlers and entertainers of all kinds.” Pg: xxviii
“Now we enter the grandest part of the Mall with exquisite buildings on both sides. Here Mcleod Road meets the Mall and at the junction facing the High Court stands a massive bronze statue of Sir John Lawrence holding a sword in one hand and a pen in the other. It carries the inscription, “I served you with pen and sword.” Sir John was the first Governor of Punjab and later became Governor-General (1864-69). This famous statue was unveiled by Sir Charles Aitchison in 1887.” Pg: 15
“Like Sir Ganga Ram, Dyal Singh Majithia, a Sikh turned Brahmo Samajist, was a great philanthropist. He founded a school, a college, a library and an English newspaper, The Tribune, thus winning the hearts of Lahorias.” Pg: 16
“...Famous landmark of the Mall – Queen Victoria’s statue installed in 1902 after the death of the Queen in 1901.” Pg: 16
“Another impressive building in the area is the Freemason Lodge, built in 1916, a place about which we know nothing except that it houses a secret brotherhood that helps its members to rise in their professions and other fields of activity.” Pg: 17
“We pass Aitchison College, better known as Chiefs’ College, surrounded by extensive playgrounds. It is an exclusive institution with mostly European teachers founded for the schooling of princes from native States and sons of the Punjab chiefs comprising the landed aristocracy. The rulers wanted these boys to be brought up in the British image. It was not considered desirable that they should mingle with the commoners.” Pg: 20
“For two centuries the Hindu rulers of Lahore gallantly withstood the Muslim onslaught, preventing the invader from advancing further into the country.” Pg: xiii
Nur Jahan’s Grave Epitaph (written by her):
Upon my grave when I die,
No lamp shall burn nor jasmine be,
No candle with unsteady flame,
No bulbul chanting overheard
Shall tell the world that I am dead.
“The most valued gift of the Raj was the freedom it gave to its subjects to practice and preach their own religions. All mosques, including the Badshahi Mosque, which has been taken over by the Sikh rulers and converted into workshops, were restored to the Muslims of Lahore. The shrines and tombs of saints, which had been abandoned for fear of repression by the authorities, regained their importance and patronage. The mausoleum of Data Ganj Bux, the patron saint of Lahore, once again attracted worshippers from all communities who went there to seek blessings for the fulfilment of their wishes. The British Rah was a welcome change after the “Sikha Shahi,” a term denoting arbitrary rule. The older generations praised the ‘Angrezi Raj diyan barkatan’ (Blessings of the British rule) with genuine feelings of gratitude.
The British rulers took active steps to safeguard and preserve old monuments and buildings of national interest and historical value. It is amusing to recall that the famous landmark of Lahore, the Anarkali tomb, had served so many purposes.” Pg: xviii
“The most novel experiment made in housing schemes was the development of a modern township named Model Town, about six miles from Lahore. Here, the houses were mostly owned by retired government officials, many of whom had during their service earned titles of Rai Sahib, Khan Sahib, Sardar Sahib, Rai Bahadur, Khan Bahadur and Sardar Bahadur.” Pg: xix
“Lahore by now had acquired the reputation of being the Paris of India. Fashion ruled the life of its people whose lifestyles, habits and customs were considered to be most admirable. It had also become the nucleus of commerce and politics.” Pg: xix
“The British brought Urdu with them from the United Provinces. Hindi in the Devnagari script came later through the influence of Arya communities as a means of communication.
While the majority of the city population was Muslim, very few Muslims were engaged in business, civil services and the professions. It was only after the government’s job reservation policy came into force that the number of Muslims in the services increased. Muslims constituted the majority of workers and artisans, being either employed in craft industries or in factories owned by Hindus. However, they controlled the fruit and vegetable markets, milk supply, furniture shops, tent manufacture and the tailoring business. There was also a sizeable Muslim landed aristocracy that owed its wealth and status to the British government. The Hindus were known to be frugal by nature. They piled up money but often gave much of it to charities. The Muslims had the reputation of being less charitable but also less miserly. Wealth to them was a passing show to be enjoyed while it lasted but not to be held on to. On the whole, the Lahorias were quite free spenders and liked to lead a good life.” Pg: xxiv
“The venue of all political meetings and public conferences in the city was the famous Mochi Gate, which was to Lahore what Hyde Park Corner was to London. This site was witness to a whole galaxy of political, social and religious leaders rousing their audiences to a pitch of excitement. Almost every other evening, the venue echoed with the thunderous slogans and cries of ‘Inqilab Zindabad’ (Long live Revolution). It was here that great mushairas (poetic symposiums) were also held. Here, the most eminent poet of his time, Mohammad Iqbal, is said to have recited his Jawab-i-Shikwa. The place was also a favorite haunt of petty traders, hawkers, magicians, snake charmers, quacks, swindlers and entertainers of all kinds.” Pg: xxviii
“Now we enter the grandest part of the Mall with exquisite buildings on both sides. Here Mcleod Road meets the Mall and at the junction facing the High Court stands a massive bronze statue of Sir John Lawrence holding a sword in one hand and a pen in the other. It carries the inscription, “I served you with pen and sword.” Sir John was the first Governor of Punjab and later became Governor-General (1864-69). This famous statue was unveiled by Sir Charles Aitchison in 1887.” Pg: 15
“Like Sir Ganga Ram, Dyal Singh Majithia, a Sikh turned Brahmo Samajist, was a great philanthropist. He founded a school, a college, a library and an English newspaper, The Tribune, thus winning the hearts of Lahorias.” Pg: 16
“...Famous landmark of the Mall – Queen Victoria’s statue installed in 1902 after the death of the Queen in 1901.” Pg: 16
“Another impressive building in the area is the Freemason Lodge, built in 1916, a place about which we know nothing except that it houses a secret brotherhood that helps its members to rise in their professions and other fields of activity.” Pg: 17
“We pass Aitchison College, better known as Chiefs’ College, surrounded by extensive playgrounds. It is an exclusive institution with mostly European teachers founded for the schooling of princes from native States and sons of the Punjab chiefs comprising the landed aristocracy. The rulers wanted these boys to be brought up in the British image. It was not considered desirable that they should mingle with the commoners.” Pg: 20
June 5, 2021
It's a delightful memoir. The author starts off with evocative prose interspersed with historical Urdu/Punjabi poems (the author has given the English translations). He walks into a bazaar, writes about it and then he quotes a poem written centuries ago that describes the bazaar. There is an enormous amount of research that has gone into this book.
It's very sad that good books don't get read much. This book has 19 reviews, whereas Chetan Bhagat gets 50,000 reviews.
The author writes about eating 'japani samosas' in a shop called Manohar in Lahore. The shop is there in Old Delhi now (near Moti Cinema). I have been there and had japani samosas with chhole! The family moved from Lahore to Delhi in 1947 and opened the Delhi shop in 1949.
Sadly the author passed away in 2018 at the age of 96.
It's very sad that good books don't get read much. This book has 19 reviews, whereas Chetan Bhagat gets 50,000 reviews.
The author writes about eating 'japani samosas' in a shop called Manohar in Lahore. The shop is there in Old Delhi now (near Moti Cinema). I have been there and had japani samosas with chhole! The family moved from Lahore to Delhi in 1947 and opened the Delhi shop in 1949.
Sadly the author passed away in 2018 at the age of 96.
July 17, 2024
A line from this book reads, "To every bird its nest is best". This is the perfect summary of Lahore: A sentimental Journey, in which author Pran Neville fondly remembers the days of his childhood and youth spent in his hometown of Lahore. This book serves as an ideal specimen of historical preservation of pre-partition India which is not only filled with interesting anecdotes from the author's life, but also features detailed accounts of the social, administrative, political and academic setup of the city.
Above all, however, this book is a love letter to this historical city, which for hundreds of years has served as a cultural hub of this region. The Lahore of today is vastly different from how it's described in the book, which is why it proved to be an interesting recollection of its past for someone like me, who was born and raised in this beautiful city.
Above all, however, this book is a love letter to this historical city, which for hundreds of years has served as a cultural hub of this region. The Lahore of today is vastly different from how it's described in the book, which is why it proved to be an interesting recollection of its past for someone like me, who was born and raised in this beautiful city.
August 29, 2024
It’s a tribute to the city Pran Nevile was born into. A remarkable nostalgic account of an ancient city where the author completed his post graduation and later served in Indian foreign service till last. Lahore which is my city also lives in our blood and engulfs our hearts. The book transforms us into the Lahore of pre 1947 era when Pakistan and India came into being after a long British raj. It tells of the people and places which win our hearts and create an unforgettable experience of the ambiance of a truly superb city. Lahore even today remains a city of mesmerising contradictions and chaotic splendour.
February 9, 2025
"जिन लाहौर नई देख्या ओ जम्याई नई"
Pran Neville has written a biography for the great city of lahore, completely depicting every aspect of the life in metropolitan lahore in 1930s. The book encapsulates description of not only places but also people, customs, traditions, etc. I was completed transferred to a time of old lahorian culture with it's kite flying, cinemas, hira Mandi etc. This book is a love letter by Pran Neville to his beloved lahore, a city of his ancestors lost by lines on the border.
Pran Neville has written a biography for the great city of lahore, completely depicting every aspect of the life in metropolitan lahore in 1930s. The book encapsulates description of not only places but also people, customs, traditions, etc. I was completed transferred to a time of old lahorian culture with it's kite flying, cinemas, hira Mandi etc. This book is a love letter by Pran Neville to his beloved lahore, a city of his ancestors lost by lines on the border.
January 30, 2024
This is a fantabulous memoire, the writer has explained each and every aspect of Indian society in depth. Specially the fact how Lahories eat and about their interest in politics. And he has touched every aspect of the society very nicely. I don’t find words to write about the beauty of this Memoire. I can say that now when I walk on the roads of walled city and the bazar of Anarkali I visualize the same scenes as writer has mentioned in his book. Although lahore has changed a lot now.
February 13, 2018
A classic book on pre-1947 Lahore. Written with the passion of someone who loves Lahore. Neville's memory is prodigious and full of great details about all sorts of things academics and historians gloss over. A great fun read.
January 16, 2021
It’s a good book but 2 or 3 chapters in the book were I felt irrelevant it felt to me the writer is reminding himself rather than giving something interesting to the readers. Overall it was a good book I get to learn few things about Lahore history from it.
January 3, 2021
Don't read..! The book would cause you fall in love with Lahore.
October 12, 2021
A good book
February 13, 2024
This book is lovely 🥺
May 20, 2024
All I want to say is, "Lahore, Lahore Hai - it defies description, it can only be felt and experienced". Rest in Peace, Pran Neville.
April 12, 2025
Very fact based & random not fun to read, the lictures and some facts were fun tho it was definitely not ‘sentimental’ lol
Read
July 12, 2025Good Book about history and traditions of Lahore
August 28, 2025
Heartfelt memoir for his favourite city
December 18, 2024
It’s not a bad book by any means, but a book that could’ve been written much much better. I love the idea of writing about Lahore as a memory, bringing in both objective details from research and observation as well as your subjective experience of the place (this is something that I am also interested in doing at some point in my life). But, for a project like this, I was expecting more of the author and seeing his placement within each eccentricity of Lahore but I didn’t get to see much of that. Sure, I know that he really liked Basant and went to go watch films at the Regal Cinema on the Mall Road and was always astonished at seeing the tongas outside Circular Road, but that’s about it - the rest of the book reads like an information dump and an over-explanation of desi life (there’s literally a three sentence long description of what a Kite looks like during Basant in the Bo-Kata chapter) which are obvious indicators about how Neville was largely writing this for a foreign audience unaware of Lahori and desi life, which just bogged me down a lot at times and ended up harming a lot of my reading experience.
Nevertheless, I think there is still a lot of value in this book. It was lovely reading about how Hira Mandi, Thandi Sarak, Anarkali, etc. all looked like back in the 20s and 30s. I just wish the narrative and Pran Neville’s space in it had a larger role in the book, instead of an informational telling of what Lahore used to look like, because that’s what I expected from the title “A Sentimental Journey” but khair, jo hota hai sou hota hai.
Nevertheless, I think there is still a lot of value in this book. It was lovely reading about how Hira Mandi, Thandi Sarak, Anarkali, etc. all looked like back in the 20s and 30s. I just wish the narrative and Pran Neville’s space in it had a larger role in the book, instead of an informational telling of what Lahore used to look like, because that’s what I expected from the title “A Sentimental Journey” but khair, jo hota hai sou hota hai.
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