Ploughman's Lunch and the Miser's Feast: Authentic Pub Food, Restaurant Fare, and Home Cooking from Small Towns, Big Cities, and Country Villages Across the British Isles

by Brian Yarvin

Celebrity television chefs like Jamie Oliver and culinary stars like Hugh Fearnely-Wittingstall have made Americans newly aware of the great potential in British cooking. But the new British food revolution is not limited to fine restaurants and television. Within Britain, pub and country inn chefs, newspaper and magazine food writers, and everyday home cooks are taking a renewed interest in their own traditional cuisine, at long last approaching it with more pride than with prejudice. In The Ploughman's Lunch and the Miser's Feast, the American cookbook author, travel writer and professional photographer Brian Yarvin brings these newly rediscovered pleasures to the attention of home cooks on this side of the Atlantic.In 100 recipes, 65 color photos, and dozens of lively sidebars, Yarvin reveals what he has discovered in his numerous walking and driving trips across the length and breadth of Great Britain. His recipes emphasize traditional and down-home dishes as perfected and updated by the best cooks in Britain. They include lots of pub fare, like Fish and Chips, Shepherd's Pie, Ploughman's Lunch, and a host of savory cakes and pasties. There are festive and substantial main courses like Howtowdie, Poached Salmon with White Sauce, and, of course, a splendidly done Beef Wellington.The hard-working Brits love big breakfasts, and there is a chapter devoted to those, while another chapter celebrates the sandwiches, salads, and snacks that are served at tea time. Curry shops have been ubiquitous for so long that Indian food by now is properly British, and Yarvin devotes another chapter to dishes such as Shrimp Biryani and Chicken Korma. A big chapter, too, shows us how to make the best-loved British sweets, from the humbly named Plum Pudding and Mincemeat Cake to the amusingly monikered Fast Rascals, Kentish Huffkins, and Welsh Dripping Cake.

Genres: Cookbooks, Cooking, Nonfiction, Food, Reference, British Literature

213 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2012

Reviews

[Trish · Rating 5 out of 5]

When Brian came to stay at our country retreat with his wife and my friend Maria Grazia, I did not know his culinary history. But spending a couple days with this intrepid traveler and food taster was like taking an international vacation without leaving home. We spent several fascinating hours listening to his opinions on everything, ranging from the state of local and domestic politics to home decorating television, to say nothing of international affairs. He is as enthusiastic and daring a foodie as the legendary Bourdain, and may even look a little like him…

As a parting gift he generously shared two of his cookbooks which have commentary so like his speech that I laughed to read it. The Ploughman’s Lunch… is for those of us who find British food interesting…and when well done, positively comforting. While there is hardly anything in the book that qualifies as vegetarian, let alone vegan, talented vegan cooks can do what we did long before the recent spate of vegan cookbooks—modify and substitute to deliver that singular Britishness that this book radiates from each page. This book will tell you the tastes and ingredients of each traditional dish—something you positively need to know if you want to create a facsimile and reach the familiar standard. (That having been said, vegetarians and vegans can still revel in the authentic spiciness of “The Curry Shop” chapter, which celebrates the Indian curry dishes featuring some delicious vegetarian dishes including Tofu Tikka Masala, One-Pot Balti, Onion Bhaji, and Onion Relish.)

When I asked Brian what qualified as comfort food for him, he said onions, adding that there was nothing so delicious as a slow-cooked onion. This book has a side bar which shares this secret with his readers, called “Onion Cuisine”.

So, this book is the indispensable accompaniment to a British vacation. It will tell you what to look for when you visit, and it will give you the means to reproduce what you loved the most. And since it is written by an American, it demystifies ingredients and gives measurements we are familiar with in our own kitchens, in portions suitable for a family or small gathering. From Pickled Eggs, Potted Ham, Cornish Pasties and Gentlemen’s Relish to Treacle Tarts and Lemon Curd, secrets are revealed and treasures unveiled.

A final note: Brian is a photographer also, and this book had photographs that had everyone in my family exclaiming. I loved the story of the pilgrimage to find the perfect pasty in Cornwall. It felt as though we were still sitting on the porch listening to his adventures. For more adventures, visit his website.

[Athena · Rating 4 out of 5]

What an absolutely swell cookbook! Public vindication at last of my Cornish granny's cookery, and splendid recipes too. It's so nice to find someone who can't be bothered with the cool sophisticate's disdain of all foods British, someone who so obviously loves that which he presents in wonderful recipes & terrific little stories scattered throughout.

Banoffee Pie! Pasties of all kinds, Chicken Galatine & LIQOUR!! The good cooking of the common folk, too long hidden away in cookbooks published mostly in Britain.

I can now bring my scotch eggs out in public and hold my head high!

Anyone who likes down-home cookery is going to enjoy this great little cookbook.

[Claudia · Rating 3 out of 5]

A really quick read especially if not bogged down trying out all the recipes - that's if one has all the appropriate ingredients.

Broken into 9 sections - -
* A Full Breakfast - which first must be described for those unfamiliar with the meal. A Full English - as it is also called - consists of, at least, 1 egg usually fried over easy, sausage, bacon, baked beans, poached or fried mushrooms, grilled/roasted or broiled tomatoes, toast and fried bread. It can also include kippers, black pudding, and kedgeree (a rice, flaked fish, boiled egg with curry dish), fruit and cold cereal. And of course, tea.
* Sandwiches, Salads, and Small Plates
* The Soup Pot
* The Main Course
* The Curry Shop - supposedly curry sauces/pastes were imported by Bangladeshi fisherman who wanted to recreate the tastes of home especially when they emigrated to Britain. And found a business appeasing the British palate.
* On the Side
* Savory Pies and Baked Goods - one must remember when the English say 'pie', it is usually meat-filled.
* The Sweet Side
* The Ploughman's Cupboard - which is filled with various condiments and standard additions to one's plate.

Recipes range from the infamous Toad in the Hole; Cock-a-Leekie Soup; Beef Wellington; Plum Pudding; Wheat Scones and many many more. What is the difference between broths and soups. Lots of onions for sweetness. Lots of fish - and a couple sidebars regarding where to get 'good' fish and chips based on the restaurant's advertising along with finding a British cuisine outpost in Brooklyn. How to make a good cup of tea. Traditional haggis. Staffordshire oatcakes, described as a burrito-like filled crepe. Welsh 'cawl' (rhymes with 'owl) which is a lamb stew and the longest town name in Wales. Markets with produce, meat, baked goods, food courts and lots of social interaction. Clotted cream does not come from a 'special' cow, it's reduced heavy cream. A lot of cooking over water or with a double boiler.

And it ends with a glossary of British food terms which comes in handy clarifying some of the more traditional phrases/names.

Oh, the Ploughman's Lunch consists of a wedge of cheese, cold meat - usually ham or roast beef - salad, chutney, bread with a pint of beer or hard cider. And the Miser's Feast originally used British bacon with the luxury of a pork chop addition. Today, it's reversed as high-quality bacon is now the luxury.

It's a fun read, especially for the Anglophile or someone about to make the trip to the United Kingdom. Also for the cook who likes to experiment with different cuisines. English is likely not one that most would try - but you have to admit, just having your guests read the menu with some of the more familiar and yet unknown names would be fun on it's own. Seriously, Yorkshire Pudding appears to be quite similar to a dinner roll on an American table but unless you know that, what would you suspect it was. . . .

2022-228

[Jan Polep · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wowser. Part cookbook, part travel log, gorgeous photos. What's not to like? Well, for this peanut butter and jelly gal, i'll beg off on eating some of these culinary creations. I've read about British Isles food in many a historical novel and am happy to see but not eat much of which is presented here. This explains a lot about my mother's cooking. She was doing it right. It just wasn't part of mid-century US menus.

[Robert · Rating 5 out of 5]

While the "Across the British Isles" of the title is a stretch since nothing Irish is presented, the unusual Welsh and Scottish recipes are a treat. Quick, descriptive introductions are helpful, comparatively short (and fairly common) ingredient lists are always appreciated, and the frequent asides for a page or two give place and purpose to the collection. I'm looking forward to making several of the soups mentioned, as well as Chicken Galatine and Fat Rascals.

[Nicolas Hall · Rating 5 out of 5]

I wouldn’t include many cookbooks in my list here but this book had a number of wonderful tales of the authors quest to learn about and experi nice some of the traditional foods of the UK. These made me read cover to cover instead of just skimming recipes. The stories, more than anything, inspired me to make homemade oat cakes and pasties among others. It’s a wonderful book for anyone who is into food or for aspiring authors who might want to include a little food lore in their writing.

[Amy · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a fun walk through cuisine of the British Isles. It was enjoyable to read about the different foods that make the different parts of the British Isles special. I think some of the recipes were a bit over-simplified. However, I did love the short stories of the trips the author took to different British destinations and some of the explanations of speciality ingredients (like British bacon).

[Yvonne · Rating 5 out of 5]

Charming, informative and encouraging, Brian Yarvin's exploration of recipes from the British isles will please anyone familiar with that cuisine and charm anyone interested in the roots of American comfort food. Fun and educational!

[Liquidlasagna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Brian Yarvin reminds us all, Brits included, that we really do love all those tasty, traditional English dishes with quirky names and interesting origins. Yarvin's casual prose is delightful and his photographs are gorgeous.
Margaret M. Johnson [The Irish Pub Cookbook]

[Deb (Bee) · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent book. Great photos, stories and easy recipes.

[Katrina · Rating 4 out of 5]

really enjoyed!

[Miki · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good reference book for all those foods you read about in English novels. On the other hand, not many recipes sounded very appealing, but I'm not adventurous when it comes to food.

[Crissy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I picked up this book when a friend was traveling in the UK and I wanted some vicarious traveling. Reading this book is reading the author’s travelogue while wandering around the UK with food as the main theme. I enjoyed his casual & amusing writing tone! I really got a feel for the small towns and tiny food shops he explored; mishaps, awkward situations & delightful surprises that are the gems and memories of travelling. I read this as a book, not as a cookbook, and have not tried any of the recipes.

[Rachel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I originally picked this up for my hubby, who is English, as we are always on the lookout for good British cookbooks. It was written by an American who is fascinated by British traditional food and culture, thus making a thorough study of the countries it contains. It was cool because the week before my hubby had a Full English Breakfast at one of few British-run establishments in the area and we were talking about making British beans for my son, and then I opened this cookbook and that was one of the first recipes I found. Anyways, a lot of the recipes I marked were not for things I had heard of before, but new things, like: Staffordshire Oatcakes, Dumplings and Mince, Lamp Dopiaza, Tofu Tikka Masala, Fidget Pie, and Cumberland Pudding. They even had a recipe for homemade Clotted Cream, which is normally like $6-9 for a small imported jar in the States. I liked that he done so much research on the cuisine and highlighted items such as British bacon, tea, Haggis, the awesome food markets in London and pubs, just to name a few. Highly recommended, 5 stars.

[Vivian · Rating 3 out of 5]

My forbears may have eaten food such as this. In another life-time I may have skills, ingredients, and time to try some of the fare presented here. But certainly not all.
Breakfast:
fried bread, baked beans, kedgeree, black pudding, jugged kippers, scotch woodcock, grilled tomatoes
Lunch:
coronation chicken, jellied fish cream, galantine of chicken, kipper pate, pickled eggs, potted ham, scotch eggs (nestled in sausage balls), salmagundi, potted asparagus, and more...
Soups: Lamb & Barley, cock-a-leekie, cream of watercress, mulligatawny, cawl cennin, partan bree, cullen skink, and more...
Supper:
beef wellington, classic roast beef with gravy, Lancashire hotpot, cawl, Lancashire hindle wakes, howtowdie, dunelm, fish & chips, ffest y cybydd, rag pudding, and more...
India inspired:
Chicken Korma, Lamb Dopiaza, Chicken Tikka Masala, Onion Bhaji, Shrimp Biryani, and more...
Treats:
Treacle pie, flapjacks (you gotta see these--they're nothing like you think), clotted cream, lemon curd, and much much more!

[Simon · Rating 3 out of 5]

So far this book is stirring up my excitement for travel and cuisine. I am in the Culinary industry and getting the options to get quality ingredients for classic and exciting recipes from other parts of the world that I do not call home is a joy to me.

I have already indulged in the glory that is the Coronation Chicken and traditional (and quite divine tasting) Oat Cakes.

I can only imagine what other goodies are in store in this well written and well informed read.

All in all this book was very interesting and kind of took me across the world to the goodness of Europe and their culture of food and tradition. I was certainly intrigued by much of what I had learned and am excited for the day, if I ever can manage to travel England ways and get around to fully experience these culinary delights first hand.

[Catherine Gillespie · Rating 3 out of 5]

So I read another book about Britain. Shocked, aren’t you? The Ploughman’s Lunch and the Miser’s Feast: Authentic Pub Food, Restaurant Fare, and Home Cooking from Small Towns, Big Cities, and Country Villages Across the British Isles is an interesting combination of information and recipes, from which I learned several things. For example, I have always thought of deep frying random foods as a State Fair thing, but apparently it’s a British thing too! Deep fried candy bars, deep fried pizza…these are not things that I feel attracted to eating, and yet I find them strangely compelling to read about. I also thought the history of how curry developed was fascinating.

{Read my full review here}

[Lindsey Duncan · Rating 2 out of 5]

This is a charming overview of British cuisine, and how it has grown from a reputation as bland non-food (nearly) into its own culinary tradition. Unfortunately, while the travelogue sections are entertaining, and the love of the food shines through in the descriptions of each recipe, this book seems - to me - to be more style than substance. About halfway through the book, I found that the lengthy descriptions of how the author tried out a signature cuisine at several locations started to wear thin. I just wanted more.

[Autumn · Rating 4 out of 5]

A lovely, down-home UK cookbook. Brian Yarvin takes a Jane and Michael Stern approach that celebrates vanishing food traditions as well as today's street food. There's a sense of discovery in this cookbook -- Yarvin is an American, so he is delighted and charmed by the chicken tikka masala and deep fried pizza that might horrify a self-conscious British foodie.

This would be a great pick for Nigella and Jamie Oliver fans who are in it for the fairy cakes rather than the risotto.

[Maurynne Maxwell · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lovely cookbook. Interesting that he uses only one pastry recipe (haven't tried it yet). I will be comparing it to the recipe our family uses. My grandma's Da came from Cornwall and of course his Polish wife had to learn to make pasties for him to take down the mine. We enjoyed the pasties and other pub food when we were lucky enough to cross the pond, so I'll be attempting to recreate the tastes. Savory pies and Strongbow, here we come!

[Melody · Rating 3 out of 5]

The photos are beautiful. The food in the photos, on the other hand, doesn't look so great. I loved the narrative parts but most of the recipes didn't make me excited. I do want to try the British Baked Beans (I'm a huge fan of beans on toast) and Yarvin made haggis sound seriously delicious. Well worth a look.

[Kathleen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Was very enjoyable to read... who would think British food - the Horror! - would come across sounding so good?

11 years later - what a snob. Had a wonderful trip to SW England and had some of the best food of my LIFE. So I had to reread (and obtain) this book.