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Feeding the Rat: A Climber's Life on the Edge
Feeding the Rat is the story of an extraordinary man: climbing legend Mo Anthoine, who found his greatest joy in adventures that tested the limits of human endurance. That passion for "feeding the rat" made him the unsung hero of dozens of horrifying epics in the mountains, including the famous Ogre expedition that almost killed Doug Scott and Sir Chris Bonington. The book is also the story of the extraordinary friendship between Mo Anthoine and A. Alvarez — the distinguished poet, journalist, and critic — whose deeply moving portrait of his longtime climbing partner is a classic of adventure literature.
240 pages, Paperback
First published June 2, 1988
9 people are currently reading
399 people want to read
About the author
Al Álvarez
48 books66 followersAlfred Alvarez was an English poet, novelist, essayist and critic who published under the name A. Alvarez and Al Alvarez.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 42 reviews
April 18, 2024
Segunda lectura. Esta vez la he disfrutado más, ya que sé más de escalada y montaña. Para aquellos que le gustan y practican esto les será mucho más cercano. Sino, será la historia de un tipo que era libre.
August 22, 2020
Interesante y breve libro para conocer la vida del escalador Mo Anthoine pero más aún intentar meterse en la cabeza de un escalador profesional y su filosofía de vida.
February 18, 2021
I have a very low tolerance for stories that glorify recklessness, and this one certainly toes the line, but gets away with it by telling Mo Anthoine’s story in comparison to more reckless, media-hungry, peak-or-die types....
I appreciated his attraction to type-two fun; the endurance races to see who can survive the crappiest conditions; and the reminder that if you don’t enjoy it, stop doing it (this is your hobby after all...).
The book was a bit amateurish in a way I couldn't totally put my finger on - I feel like I learned more about the inner workings of the author than the subject, and that he just barely brushed the surface of this psychological drive, the namesake for the book "feeding the rat", and that it could have been much more.
I appreciated his attraction to type-two fun; the endurance races to see who can survive the crappiest conditions; and the reminder that if you don’t enjoy it, stop doing it (this is your hobby after all...).
The book was a bit amateurish in a way I couldn't totally put my finger on - I feel like I learned more about the inner workings of the author than the subject, and that he just barely brushed the surface of this psychological drive, the namesake for the book "feeding the rat", and that it could have been much more.
August 19, 2021
A book as much about friendship as it is climbing and for pretty much a non climber that's fine.
It means I didn't get bogged down with technical detail ..all within this book was fine for me who has had rudimentary climbing experience in his life.
The book helped explain the love friends of mine have had with this activity however..checking out elusive routes and clambering areas where the folk heroes of climbing had gone before.
Good too that I know Llanberis and Snowdon from youthful treks that way it maybe was a additional connection to this book.
The subject Mo Anthoine comes across well in this his attitude and view to life within are generally something to attain too..the pushing of one's self to test your resolve and the somewhat seemingly carefree spirit.
Anyhow enjoyed this it ended with poignancy and dignity.
It means I didn't get bogged down with technical detail ..all within this book was fine for me who has had rudimentary climbing experience in his life.
The book helped explain the love friends of mine have had with this activity however..checking out elusive routes and clambering areas where the folk heroes of climbing had gone before.
Good too that I know Llanberis and Snowdon from youthful treks that way it maybe was a additional connection to this book.
The subject Mo Anthoine comes across well in this his attitude and view to life within are generally something to attain too..the pushing of one's self to test your resolve and the somewhat seemingly carefree spirit.
Anyhow enjoyed this it ended with poignancy and dignity.
June 4, 2020
Lots of more recent climbing books — and even books about other demanding outdoor pursuits — often refer to this book, so although it was kind of hard to find, I wanted to read it. After all, Álvarez was a super-interesting guy himself, the idea of climbing as a kind of addiction (which is where "feeding the rat" metaphor comes from) was intriguing as a description of his late friend Mo Anthoine's climbing life.
Anthoine climbed with the high-profile folks of his day (such as Chris Bonington) but was less known because of his lack of interest in the high profile pursuits. That's at least Álvarez's framing, and I have no reason to doubt it (or dis the need for some climbers to seek publicity).
Although the book is only thirty-one years old (I say "only" because I still remember 1989!), it hasn't aged well. Some of that is just a reflection of the times and tangential to the value of the book, such as using "Oriental" to refer to Asians, but some of it is more off-putting, such as the casual sexism of the climbers' world Álvarez describes. For example, the surprised admiration that Mo Anthoine's wife, Jackie, also climbs and the patronizing way her prowess is described really was pretty patently sexist even back in 1989.
There are redeeming features to this short book, though. Some of the descriptions of the climbs, especially the ones Álvarez is on himself, are good. It's really, really hard to convey climbing in a way that's meaningful even to climbers, let alone non-climbers, but some of it here — both the technical aspects and the feelings — is nicely done, even when it, too, feels dated, sometimes in hilarious ways. Consider: "I pulled up the hood of my anorak and hunched over the light my pipe."
And the very end (before the 2001 epilogue), mainly long quotations from Mo, offer a rich account both of the why and how of people who get into dangerous and demanding pursuits do it when the going gets tough. And I personally like that at least in Mo Anthoine's version, as conveyed by Álvarez, it's not about the risk as much as it is about the difficulty.
Anthoine climbed with the high-profile folks of his day (such as Chris Bonington) but was less known because of his lack of interest in the high profile pursuits. That's at least Álvarez's framing, and I have no reason to doubt it (or dis the need for some climbers to seek publicity).
Although the book is only thirty-one years old (I say "only" because I still remember 1989!), it hasn't aged well. Some of that is just a reflection of the times and tangential to the value of the book, such as using "Oriental" to refer to Asians, but some of it is more off-putting, such as the casual sexism of the climbers' world Álvarez describes. For example, the surprised admiration that Mo Anthoine's wife, Jackie, also climbs and the patronizing way her prowess is described really was pretty patently sexist even back in 1989.
There are redeeming features to this short book, though. Some of the descriptions of the climbs, especially the ones Álvarez is on himself, are good. It's really, really hard to convey climbing in a way that's meaningful even to climbers, let alone non-climbers, but some of it here — both the technical aspects and the feelings — is nicely done, even when it, too, feels dated, sometimes in hilarious ways. Consider: "I pulled up the hood of my anorak and hunched over the light my pipe."
And the very end (before the 2001 epilogue), mainly long quotations from Mo, offer a rich account both of the why and how of people who get into dangerous and demanding pursuits do it when the going gets tough. And I personally like that at least in Mo Anthoine's version, as conveyed by Álvarez, it's not about the risk as much as it is about the difficulty.
January 26, 2024
a neat and very readable wee book that pulls together aspects of a pretty exceptional life in a way that keeps it understated, human. a sense of friendship and humility calmly asserts itself above the high stakes drama. i think this is its main strength - rather than a swashbuckling, one-man-against-all hero, alvarez's portrait focuses on a charming all-rounder with nothing to prove to anyone.
mo comes across as adventurous but grounded, not seeking to appear interesting but to have interesting experiences - which usually involve a bit of suffering. alvarez captures this so effectively through discrete windows of chapters, using only the words that are needed to reveal a new side of his subject. i enjoyed his first-person descriptions of natural settings and recollections of experiences with mo most, the minor jokes and anecdotes of "regular" life often as compelling as the stories of grand expeditions.
im fascinated by the mysterious force that compels people to participate in massive discomfort and risk seemingly for the sake of it, which is what drew me to this book in the first place. the reasons i understand are given here - the satisfaction of finding out your limits, and to have a laugh with friends doing something novel - are perfectly valid and in keeping with mo's "turn back if it isn't worth it" attitude. it's almost a bit tamer than i anticipated from the title of the book. it still doesn't quite make sense to me, but drags me in all the same.
mo comes across as adventurous but grounded, not seeking to appear interesting but to have interesting experiences - which usually involve a bit of suffering. alvarez captures this so effectively through discrete windows of chapters, using only the words that are needed to reveal a new side of his subject. i enjoyed his first-person descriptions of natural settings and recollections of experiences with mo most, the minor jokes and anecdotes of "regular" life often as compelling as the stories of grand expeditions.
im fascinated by the mysterious force that compels people to participate in massive discomfort and risk seemingly for the sake of it, which is what drew me to this book in the first place. the reasons i understand are given here - the satisfaction of finding out your limits, and to have a laugh with friends doing something novel - are perfectly valid and in keeping with mo's "turn back if it isn't worth it" attitude. it's almost a bit tamer than i anticipated from the title of the book. it still doesn't quite make sense to me, but drags me in all the same.
February 17, 2022
In today's world of the alpinist and free solo, this book was fairly pedestrian. However I think when it was released it gave the public a fresh glimpse into the pysche of adventure junkie climbers. Again that's a well trod path these days, and this book wasn't the most exciting to walk it. Yet in a quiet way I think the book still had unique subtitles to speak to if you listen closely.
February 26, 2023
If I didn’t have a “rat/beast”, I sure have awaken mine after devouring this book!!!
Highly recommended. The book takes you to different places while it gives you a lot to think about. Be aware, you might want sing up for climbing after the first chapter.
Highly recommended. The book takes you to different places while it gives you a lot to think about. Be aware, you might want sing up for climbing after the first chapter.
April 4, 2020
Fantastic book and quick read. I was drawn in by the good writing and humor. It was so interesting learning about all the different expeditions of Mo who had no interest in being famous and living the public life. It was great to read about him from his friends point of view.
Read
January 30, 2022The best mountain climbing book I have read after the incomparable Into Thin Air.
April 26, 2025
Escalade 👍
August 23, 2025
Les récits d’alpinisme sont l’un de mes péchés mignons – alors que c’est une activité que je ne pratique que pour grimper en haut des étagères des bibliothèques –, alors lorsqu’ils sont écrits par un styliste comme Al Álvarez je ne boude pas mon plaisir. J’ai découvert cet auteur en lisant un livre consacré au poker – activité que je ne pratique pas non plus –, Le plus gros jeu, et j’ai tout de suite été sous le charme de ce mélange improbable de journalisme et de poésie, comme si un professeur d’université se mettait à écrire sur des sujets de la culture populaire, un gonzo journalisme littéraire en quelque sorte.
Ici nous n’avons pas à faire à un classique récit d’expédition – comme le terrible Tragédie à l’Everest –, mais au portrait d’un grimpeur attachant, Mo Anthoine. Evidemment, Àlvarez relate plusieurs épopées en montagne dont certaines à laquelle il a lui-même participé, mais s’attarde aussi sur d’autres aspects de la vie de ce sympathique aventurier. Le fait que ce court récit soit écrit avec subtilité, humour et intelligence – et autodérision lorsqu’il est partie prenante – le rende particulièrement agréable à lire.
Également publié sur mon blog.
Ici nous n’avons pas à faire à un classique récit d’expédition – comme le terrible Tragédie à l’Everest –, mais au portrait d’un grimpeur attachant, Mo Anthoine. Evidemment, Àlvarez relate plusieurs épopées en montagne dont certaines à laquelle il a lui-même participé, mais s’attarde aussi sur d’autres aspects de la vie de ce sympathique aventurier. Le fait que ce court récit soit écrit avec subtilité, humour et intelligence – et autodérision lorsqu’il est partie prenante – le rende particulièrement agréable à lire.
Également publié sur mon blog.
December 28, 2023
I read this book after reading Pondlife by the author and was interested to find out more about him and his earlier life. Also I have begun climbing non-technical mountains in later life and was curious for more information on the subject. Either way I am not sure I learnt a lot. The book was to me surprisingly short and the adventures were described more in the style of fast paced sketches. The lack of detail and description of people, places and events made the stories less meaningful and detracted from the weight of the achievements. That is with the exception of the Old Man of Hoy which he personally experienced and so was in a position to describe knowledgeably. This rather led me to the conclusion that he was only skimming the surface on a number of tales because he had no first hand experience and the information provided by his friend Mo was superficial only which would have been in keeping with the man’s character. So overall I enjoyed it but was left wanting a lot more from him.
April 19, 2021
Das titelgebende Konzept ist interessant:
Die "Ratte" ist das innere Verlangen nach Abenteuer, Angst und "suffering". Ab und an müsse man sie füttern, sonst verkommt man. "The rat is you, really. It's the other you, and it's being fed by the you that you think you are. And they are often very different people. But when they come close to each other, that's smashing, that is. Then the rat's had a good meal and you come away feeling terrific. It's a fairly rare thing, but you have to keep feeding the brute, just for your own peace of mind. And even if you did blow it, at least there wouldn't be that great unknown. But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." (p. 152)
Der Autor beschreibt ein paar Anekdoten, die er selbst oder die Hauptperson dieser Biographie, Mo Anthoine in den Bergen erlebt haben, in Wales genau so wie im Himalaya oder Karakoram.
Herausragend geschrieben ist es nicht, aber nett zu lesen.
Die "Ratte" ist das innere Verlangen nach Abenteuer, Angst und "suffering". Ab und an müsse man sie füttern, sonst verkommt man. "The rat is you, really. It's the other you, and it's being fed by the you that you think you are. And they are often very different people. But when they come close to each other, that's smashing, that is. Then the rat's had a good meal and you come away feeling terrific. It's a fairly rare thing, but you have to keep feeding the brute, just for your own peace of mind. And even if you did blow it, at least there wouldn't be that great unknown. But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." (p. 152)
Der Autor beschreibt ein paar Anekdoten, die er selbst oder die Hauptperson dieser Biographie, Mo Anthoine in den Bergen erlebt haben, in Wales genau so wie im Himalaya oder Karakoram.
Herausragend geschrieben ist es nicht, aber nett zu lesen.
January 11, 2025
“Because climbers as a group tend to be highly motivated, competent, and independent (they would not otherwise survive in the hills), they are usually good at whatever work they take up. As a result, the plumbing, carpentry, bricklaying, roofing and decorating are probably better and certainly cheaper, in Llamberis than anywhere else in Britain. There is one problem: climbing comes before money, so in good weather work gets delayed.”
My now friend, and maybe the kindest person I have met, recommended this book to me sitting at a bar after he rescued me from my broken down van (house) on the North side of Stevens Pass. Thanks, Nick.
My now friend, and maybe the kindest person I have met, recommended this book to me sitting at a bar after he rescued me from my broken down van (house) on the North side of Stevens Pass. Thanks, Nick.
June 22, 2024
Although I don’t mountain climb, I can identify with the metaphor “feeding the rat.” I imagine much of the book would strongly resonate with a climber. Regardless, the book is a quick entertaining read and it made me feel a sense of community, knowing other sects of people have the same urge to see how far they can push themselves in their respective discipline or passion.
February 5, 2024
Alimentar a la Bestia, ¿cómo es tu bestia? quizás ese sea el gran takeaway. Mo Anthoine fue uno de los grandes escaladores británicos. Su amigo Al Alvarez le escribe este corto libro y habla de su amigo que persiguió sus sueños y para él ir a la montaña era una excusa para compartir con sus amigos.
November 22, 2024
Overall great read. Lots of British humour, as well as many extreme mountaineering tales, which was what I was after. Doesn’t go into lots of detail, but if you’re interested in the subject it’s worth a read.
December 1, 2020
3.8
De totes maneres l'he devorat. En algun punt m'ha recordat a "Años salvajes" de William Finnegan
De totes maneres l'he devorat. En algun punt m'ha recordat a "Años salvajes" de William Finnegan
May 17, 2021
Maravilloso para los amantes de la escalada.
July 14, 2021
An interesting book, but the writing was kind of odd at times as if there was a lack of an editor.
August 28, 2021
Me encantó, no lo quería terminar de leer.
September 29, 2021
Amazing account of courage and determination.
January 6, 2022
One of the best opening sentences of a book ever!
February 19, 2022
Mountaineering in the 70s and 80s.
October 10, 2022
it was weird to read a climbing book where no one died, or even lost toes.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
July 8, 2024
I want to climb Old Man of Hoy !
December 15, 2025
Perfect, sublime - to snuff it without knowing what you’re capable of, I can’t think of anything sadder than that.
March 10, 2017
Quick and engaging insight into climbers and climbing. Being one myself I identify with Mo and I loved hearing about his attitude to climbing. Also enjoyed the stories of his exploits and it got me thinking about the different desires and outcomes from adventures. Definitely worth a read.
July 7, 2014
Short, breezy portrait of one of the more discreet members of the British climbing establishment in the 1970s and 80s. Mo Anthoine did not have the notoriety of his climbing partners Joe Brown, Chris Bonington and Doug Scott, but he was involved in many key achievements in the Alps and Himalayas of that time.
Alvarez' account is anecdotal and reveals a rather two-dimensional portrait of an imperturbable and dead-pan personality. I felt Anthoine to remain an enigma. As an entertaining collection of adventurous stories the book is fine. But as an in-depth character study it falls short.
For a well-documented account of the 1970s British climbing scene and a holographic portrait of a complex climbing personality, I recommend Jim Perrin's 'The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans'. For a better understanding of the climbing ethos underpinning lightweight, high-commitment climbs on Himalayan peaks there are no better accounts than Steve House's 'Beyond the Mountain' and Mark Twight's 'Kiss or Kill'.
Alvarez' account is anecdotal and reveals a rather two-dimensional portrait of an imperturbable and dead-pan personality. I felt Anthoine to remain an enigma. As an entertaining collection of adventurous stories the book is fine. But as an in-depth character study it falls short.
For a well-documented account of the 1970s British climbing scene and a holographic portrait of a complex climbing personality, I recommend Jim Perrin's 'The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans'. For a better understanding of the climbing ethos underpinning lightweight, high-commitment climbs on Himalayan peaks there are no better accounts than Steve House's 'Beyond the Mountain' and Mark Twight's 'Kiss or Kill'.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 42 reviews