From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokai's infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africa's Transkei Homeland, Return by Water brings light to surfers' lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike. Follow surf journalist Kimball Taylor on his travels through South Africa, Ecuador, Brazil, Mexico, Hawaii, French Polynesia, Indonesia and more. The journey is as transforming and definitive as any surfer's first trip away from home.
Kimball Taylor is a long-time contributor to Surfer Magazine and the author of two books about the sport: Return by Water: Surf Stories and Adventures and Drive Fast and Take Chances. Taylor holds a BA in journalism and an MFA in creative writing and is an alumnus of the Squaw Valley Community of Writers.
This is a fabulous collection of surf stories by a local Southern Californian surfer, so he really knows his stuff. Of particular note-- the stories of the author's time surfing in the far East/Asia and his perceptions/observations directly following the 9/11 attacks.
Lovely, lyrical writing in places... A joy to read.
Traveling Southern California surf journalist and author Kimball Taylor offers up a collection of his travels and the troubles he encounters on the road to awesome surf spots near and far. Recommended!
Nothing special. I was hoping for The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories or The Wave. Both of those were way better. Oddly enough, there just didn't seem to be enough focus on actual surfing. I don't know, I thought some of his adventures and stories were interesting, but the other two books captured the beauty of the ocean and surfing. The writing was okay, and I was happy to see a mention of North Carolina, and even Rhode Island, but I had hoped for more details.
A quick entertaining collection of short stories centered around surfing. Kimball Taylor is a talented author and is a pleasure to read. I was a little disappointed the book's stories did not all center on surfing, but found it entertaining regardless.
A wonderful collection of short stories highlighting some of the better mishaps that happen on the road. The author is an amazing storyteller who gives just enough detail to where you can almost feel the salty air.