Exploring a karmic network in 25,320 kilometres After twenty years in the Indian Administrative Service, P.G. Tenzing throws off the staid life of a bureaucrat to roar across India on an Enfield Thunderbird, travelling light with his possessions strapped on the back of his bike. On the nine-month motorcycle journey without a pre-planned route or direction, he encounters acquaintances who appear to be from his karmic past: from the roadside barber to numerous waiters and mechanics— fleeting human interactions and connections that seem pre-ordained. Life on the road is full of pot holes in more ways than one, but Tenzing acquires a wheelie’s sixth sense. He is unfazed by suspicious hotel receptionists or other unkarmic sceptics who take one look at his dishevelled, unkempt appearance and ask for an advance, or a deposit or both. Tenzing’s views on life and death, friendship and love are informed by a certain dark humour. But his conviction that everything revolves around the sacred bond that humans share with each other and with the universe is deeply felt and inspiring. Sometime singer with a Gangtok band, a dabbler in vipassana meditation and a supporter of a monk's school at Mangan, Sikkim, P.G. Tenzing is self-confessedly at a mid-life crisis point and ready for all the adventures this world has to offer.
P.G. Tenzing studied at Delhi University. He was in the Kerala cadre of the Indian Administrative Service for twenty years His colleagues said of him, as he embarked on his adventures: ‘Philosopher, eccentric, drinking companion, fitness freak, party animal, secret workaholic, visiting professor, reluctant officer, successful hotelier and great friend of all’.
A word of warning..this is not an objective review. P G Tenzing, who passed away last year, was one of very few people that I could count among my close friends. His life, while much shorter than those who cared about him, wanted it to be, was truly extraordinary.
Those who knew him will easily recognize his personality in the pages of this book. Loud, irreverent, iconoclastic. Forever determined to live life to the fullest!
'Thamzi' is a Bhutia word which means sacred bond. This book is about my friend's journey as he travels through the backwaters of India on his motorbike, paying off his Karmic debts to those he shares Thamzi with, always with compassion and a wicked sense of humor.
The book is always funny, often insightful and is populated by innumerable colorful characters, who regardless of what they do end up enriching PG's stash of Thamzi!
Five Stars is what I give it! Definitely worth a read!
Here is a quote from the book; wherever he is PG is probably squirming with embarrassment, having been caught for once, in a serious, reflective moment :
"Death is an aspect of life that is not popularly discussed. It's like a dirty little secret everyone shares. Most cultures do not encourage talking about it. My father tried to prepare me for death. He used to talk about its certainty, its inevitability. SO what I started my search for life's meaning, death was a significant part of the equation. I am nowhere near understanding anything, but am at this point comfortable with the idea of death. It happens. Shit happens. Be prepared. Prepare your family, friends and all who will listen. Morbid ? No way! This is the way of the wise. Life is after all a journey to death and the next life. Lord Buddha's first words after gaining enlightenment were: 'Countless Lives have I lived'. The man had no reason to lie. I believe in him"
Yes my friend. Life comes to an end. Thamzi, on the other hand, is eternal.
This book was recommended to me by a very dear friend who like me is an adventure enthusiast. Apart from an adventure junkie, he is also a biker. He told me to read this account of a biking journey which the author undertook after his retirement from the IAS. I was also captivated by its witty title- "Don't ask any old bloke for directions". Sadly, this book is nothing that I expected. It is not about his travels but rather about people who he met while traveling. He has given an unstructured description about them.
I can hardly call this a book. It came across more like random scribbling made by P.G. Tenzing and not even about his bike trip. He has not structured his writing and jumps from one topic to another abruptly. Also, I felt that his writing was broken. Please read an extract from the "book" below and judge it for yourself: " Orrisa being one of the backward states, I was curious to know about the lives of tribals there. Sharma promised to arrange for my stay in Mayurbhanj district. We went for lunch to the Bhubneswar Club. Nice. Met some local journalists. Got plunked on a website. Thakur promised to find me a cottage in Manali, his hometown. The place where we were staying was some government corporation guest house. The cook was amazing, but so were we".
The entire "book" has been written in the same style. More than 90% of the "book " is about people and his fight with the Indian bureaucracy in small and big ways. He has rarely written anything about his travels.
All said and done, I feel that Tenzing has done a marvelous journey across India. I really respect and admire his passion for traveling. But as far as this "book" goes, I expected it to be far better. I would have loved to read an account of his extra ordinary 25000 km journey across India. I am sorry but I will not recommend this "book" to anyone.
The book is really an interesting read and would appeal to you more if you consider it as a record full of life’s wisdom instead of a travelogue. Throughout the book Tenzing focuses on human beings he encountered on the road and not about the mother nature and other interesting information that comes along. Every book bears the signature of the author and Tenzing has every right to stick to the style he wants to.
What appeals to me is his cleverness in presenting ordinary people and situations in an amusing way. While we go through the book we often find ourselves giggling. The proceedings are even more exciting when he intersperse his journey with his spiritual side and thereby making us think for e.g. his take on death (my eyes swelled with tears while reading that b’coz the writer is no more).
I feel he could have presented the whole picture without the use of all those swear words. Though his grasp over the language is first rate, profanity at times makes the ride a bumpy one.
I find him very brave person because leaving a dream job and crisscrossing the country for around nine months without a proper destination require courage in its purest form. When dusk settles in he has to find out a moderate accommodation every day, if we put ourselves in his shoes we can imagine how daunting a task that is. Riding after dark in unknown terrain without recourse! I have seen documentaries of people travelling across India on motorcycles, but they were in groups with full-fledged technical support in tow.
The narrative is broken which I think because he does not want to capture the attention of the viewer, he wrote the book the way he wants to and he is not bothered if the whole world does not take notice of it. Moreover, he is fearless and reckless in portraying himself throughout the book that just makes him a guy next door.
He says while riding through the cold dessert in Himalayas he cried copiously, but he does not say why he cried. I was of the impression that he did not reveal the reason since he wants to capture the attention of the reader and would divulge somewhere down the road, but he never did. At an intellectual level, one could connect it with his spirituality and give an explanation that one finds logical, but I feel it would have been good had he himself revealed what it was as he should have realised the readers are not as brainy as him. The very thing can be construed otherwise as a bait to keep the reader hooked right till the end.
Towards the last few pages he grasps the reader completely and narrates things like a seasoned storyteller – the way life unfolds when he enters Goa.
If you have a passion for riding and want to see the hinterland of our country, wait no more go - grab this book and enjoy the ride vicariously until you are able to do what he did. He died after one year he wrote this book and that means he did the right thing by following his heart. After reading it I feel I am karmically connected to him, so are other readers. May his soul rest in peace.
Many of us go through the existential pangs of life from time to time, especially when we are in a place that we don’t want to be or working with people whom we hate. Rarely does anyone show the courage to say out loud, “to hell with it” and walk the talk. Here is one guy who did just that and if that was not enough, went on a 25,000 km bike ride across the country.
P.G. Tenzing, an IAS officer from Sikkim, who spent almost 20 years in Kerala did just that when he was 43. This is his account of that journey, told in a no nonsense manner, in an inimitable style. Along with observations about his friends and people whom he meets along the way, he also writes about his disillusionment about the system and his helplessness about many a thing political as well.
His sense of humor is brilliant and is evident throughout the narration. Particularly enticing to me was his love for food,
” Food in Kerala is to die for. Fish, chicken, pork, beef, whatever, all cooked in delectable coconut oil. Except ‘putte’ – a rice based cylindrical piece of poison which can choke you during breakfast.”
Starting from Varkala beach near Trivandrum, he rides up north, spending a minimum of 6-7 hours on the bike as he traverses the length and breadth of the country.
What makes his story more interesting in retrospect is his thoughts on death. Having survived it twice – once from an illness and the from an accident, he seems almost casual in his observation,
” my father tried to prepare us for death. He used to talk about its certainty, it’s inevitability. So when I started my search for life’s meaning, death was a significant part of the equation. I am nowhere near understanding anything, but am nowhere near understanding anything, but am at this point comfortable with the idea of death. It happens. Shit happens. Be prepared. Prepare your family, friends and all who will listen.”
Premonition? Definitely so. Not much later after his book was published, he passes on after a brief illness.
The story makes you want to just go and do whatever it is that you have always wanted to. It reminds us that life can sometimes to be too short. The friends along the way, in almost every town and village, give us glimpses of a man who was loved by many. And that makes us realize what a life well lived means. The tale ends with a thought that is so relevant to all of us ,
“I may have issues with my life, and I have been buffeted about a bit, but those are nothing compared to the daily battering taken by Mohan and his ilk. Living with them has made me rethink many established idiocies and realize that all those high-sounding spiritual, psychological and emotional arguments we have the luxury to engage in, in our temperature-controlled drawing rooms, take a very low backseat indeed when you are existing – subsisting- day to day.”
Never expect this to be a common travelogue. You cannot see in this book, pristine lakes, thick forests, majestic mountains or local culture. The solo bike journey across India is not as romantic as you expect. That leaves you with painful ass, clogged nose and arthritic fingers. This is how the author perceives the world around him. He openly talks about everything that comes across - be it mechanics, alcohol or his female hosts!
This book makes you feel like the author is sitting in your drawing room and telling you his story.It is that candid.The author has an amazing style of narration.You can never get bored of this book.Such a lively man.God bless his soul.
A simple book, written by a former Indian democrat. Writer's weltschmerz feeling compelled him to break out from his profession of typical Indian government services, in truest obedience of serving his intellect and passion.
This book is not just a travelogue but a unique memoir to understand what it takes to break the mundane barrier of unmeaning-full professional life. It's all about mix feelings of desire and passion to cross the mundane boundary.
The never-ending earn-spend-repeat cycle of the capital world is impacting the Indian job system, its day by day making more people fall into its strap, people not even able to realize that this capital world is smartly eating their precious age of youth and eventually eating all their savings, but increasing the costs of medical, residential and basic necessities.
Keep the people poor, that is the only motive of the capital world, to never stop receiving the people to serve.
I have vicariously enjoyed Tenzing's journey and I believe his story resonates with me. After all, this is the beauty of book reading that a reader becomes the protagonist of the book and feels like living the same story as the writer.
I don't want to break the parameters but to stay sensitive towards the original reality of Indian job system while still trying to break out of Earn-Spend-Repat cycle!!
1. He is a middle aged man with a long and active career working for the government but his attire tempts others to underestimate him 2. He starts the journey early 3. A pain in the butt or knuckle irritates him 4. He eats from a lousy restaurant 5. He put up a fight with a corrupt govt official and ultimately makes him run for his life thanks to Tenzing's prowess from the IAS training 6. Women ogle lustily at him but the saint shall not return them the favor 7. He lie to whomever that may try to have a chit chat with him 8. He finds a sh*t-hole of a hotel but for the parking lot and the owner ask him for advance payment 9. Go back to step 2
Do this iteration for a dozen times and behold... Liam Neeson on Indian roads.
But honestly, in spite of all this, I couldn't dislike the book. He is not so good as an author but his thoughts bear that spark that we only see from men who are truly free. His memoir of the Manali-Leh trip was pure thrill for the likes of us, the wanna-be-wanderers. The book is not about the ride as much as it is about the rider and though I didn't like the book that much, I admire Mr. Tenzing for his courage.
It is definitely not a travelogue . Don't approach it with that in mind. It's actually the story of his life during the one year of his life during which he cross crossed India in his Royal enfield . He gives us an inspite to what led to his idea of travel.... From the memories we can understand that he is a man of a lot of knowledge of self. He understands self soo well that it is fun reading though his paras of self introspection. After the first half he stops introspection seems he lost interest in the writing and felt like he wanted to just finish it. Then the story leaves its hold on you. And u feel happy as it comes to an end. 3 stars for the first half of the story.
This is exactly the kind of book I hope to write some day.
Sometimes philosophical, sometimes darkly funny, this is an engaging account of a journey that can only be described as courageous. A book that should be prescribed reading for everyone who pride upon themselves to be adventure-seekers.
A good travel book with lot of life's wisdoms thrown in. However, the book is written more for the writer's benefit than for the readers. The writing style is a bit broken as well. If anything else, the book does offer inspiration to emulate the writers journey or experience something similar but apart from this stoking of wanderlust there is not much the book offers.
It is a biker's whimsical journey across india...with a good measure of Sikkimese 'Thamzi" thrown in....As one progresses through the book one finds oneself chuckling time and again.Very readable..the kind of book you find yourself reaching out to ..more than once.
Why not 5? Because It is just an account of the people he met another time through his journey. Why 3 but? Because it has inspired me to lose all the inhibitions and go out there just without any reason.
Interesting journey but the story not so much! The journey was supposed to have been for inner discovery and to be at peace with oneself and with all his "thamzi" connections. But the author seems to be generally angry and unhappy with anyone he meets on his journeys...
Written by an IAS officer who has quit the service and decides to go on a biking trip across India. It is a light and breezy read where the author talks about his interesting experiences on the road and the myriad characters he comes across on his travels through different parts of India. It is more of a memoir than a travelogue.
The Package from Amazon which carried the book also contained this amazing bookmark which rightly quoted "Reading is the sole means by which we slip,involuntarily, often helplessly,into another's skin, another's voice, another's soul". Nowhere any quote became so eerily appropriate than in this book of travels. It was like I was with the author wherever he went. The way the author has shaped this book is like he is talking to us- humorous, his thoughts on Indian conditions, universal brotherhood (Thamzi :)), about his IAS past-the disdain he has for the politicians, his wonderful colleagues, encounters with unique individuals on the road, wisdom on travelling the Indian roads. Best part undoubtedly is his humor, may be that is the reason he had friends everywhere. This is the second book I have read which sadly is the Author's first and last novel. Mr P G Tenzing is no more and it is really sad that such an amazing individual and promising Author is no more with us.
The first novel I was referring to was Confederacy of Dunces written by John K. Toole. Both the novels were splendid and I thoroughly enjoyed reading them.
The last sentences of this travelogue reads like this- "You and I have Thamzi,mate, like it or not. Catch up with it anytime you like. We'll be waiting. Thamzi and I." Now don't you think this quote borders on the surreal now :)
This is also the first novel which I have ordered on the net without knowing much about it. Talk about book finding the reader and not the other way round. Is 'Thamzi' at work here :)?
P.S.: Fair warning: Reading this novel may immediately incite you on starting a Road journey :)
This book turned out to be very different from what I had expected..
Actually, I was expecting a hippie kind of a guy, on his enfield roaring all over the country living back dust.. Very adventurous stuff, with someone very rich to keep the flow of fuel into his bike.. But the story is completely a contrast to what I have expected.. After completing the book I released that it is some way or the other like the book named "Horn Ok Please - HOPping To Conclusions"..
The book contains the story of a rider -actually pretty old to do something like this- who gives up his IAS job and wants to experience everything which he missed in his youth.. It's not just a story with lot of wierd names of places -which most of the ppl are never heard of-, its the journey of the author across country, in search of his debts to repay from his karmic past... The perfect blend of humour and adventure is irresistable.. Must read!!
Very refreshing, entertaining, exciting and inspiring book!!
My first shot at the travel books genre, and I must admit, I wasn't disappointed at all. Entertaining book (an extra star for keeping me entertained all the time), full of pangs of narcissistic and/or cheap comments on others. This book do motivate you to take the similar journey at least once in your life- to be alone with yourself, away from chaos, on untouched beaches, hill-stations, roads-less-travelled, country-side, just you. Though I had expected the author to be different from most of the Indians, given his Sikkimese identity, but throughout the book, author never failed to generalize other ethnicities, be it Malyalee, Bengali, or Punjabi: extremely racist; rare thing, especially if you hold an IAS position, but he himself claimed to be unfit for the position he was holding anyway. Lastly, last two pages, description of Mohan, was the one to take lessons from and was best part of the book.
R.I.P. P.G Tenzing, you did inspire faction of adventurous souls by undertaking this 25000+ KM journey.
Don't ask any old bloke for directions"..... The well crafted road diary of an IAS who gave away his bureaucratic life to become the Biker he had been thinking off over a decade and ride across the entire nation twice on a 350 cc king of the road, only to die off cancer very soon after his journey...The biker gives an inspiration and proves it's never too late to start something new. He keeps the zeal alive if one dreams the same. He talks about the roads and people encountered during the journey rather than describing the beatiful places, because anyone else can do that. The humour is a bit less, and that might keep the reader away from being spellbound at some parts of the journey. Overall a good book that is keeping my dream alive. I m still too young to his age and that keeps the spirit alive. And...thanks Nidhi Singh for introducing me to Late P.G. Tenzing to live up his life for some time.
This book reminded me of English, August. Although the latter is beyond comparison but I say this because Tenzing is similarly witty, philosophical and exceedingly candid as U.Chatterjee. The book is a quick read but every page is worth its salt. At some places it gives you the butteflies-in-stomach feeling. Tenzing travelled a bloody 25,300 something Kms on his RE Thunderbird...! the very thought of such an adventure gives me a pain in the ass - literally. And not to forget, he did this in his 40s. Sad that he's no more with us today.
I liked the book, it's not 'profound' like R.Prisig but a rather light toned honest account of a man who's looking to repay his accumulated karmic debts by resiging from the elite Indian Administrative Services and hitting the road to travel for the sake of it...
The book depicts the voyage of a voluntary retired I.A.S officer, in his early fourties, on Royal Enfield.
I expected the book to be boring as the writer is from govt services. But it's nothing like expected. It's more a free thinking than aimed writing. Author didn't hold back from controversial topics like sex and drugs.
The journey is a complete one. Except 3 NE started he drove into every state in india. A good read.
Dont expect it to be a travelogue, its more what affected writer and his experiences.
Well, to point out negatives, the tone could have been less hippie for my liking. I expect an civil services guy to know that Hindi is not national language of India, its official along with English.
One man taking out a journey in his bike with no fixed schedule or plan and with a shoe string budget exploring India, meeting new people, making new friends, reuniting with old and discovering himself in the process. His survival on the road in numerous occasions using his knowledge of the way the government is run, his rough appearance helping in bulldozing his way through and being extremely street smart has written well packaged with a dark humor that has you in splits at times. A very inspiring book for any biker as well as any avid traveler to experience India as raw as it comes. On the whole a very good and inspiring read.
This is a tale of a bureaucrat turned adventurer. Tenzing served in the Indian Government as an IAS officer for 20 years, at the end of which, he just got sick of it all and chucked his job to travel 25,320kms on a Royal Enfield Thunderbird motorcycle, all alone! His experiences are a treat to read and he talks about the Karmic connections that he meets along the ride. You will always have a smile on your face as you read the book. Unfortunately he died young due to cancer just a couple of years after he was published. This is a must read for any roadie or a biker.
An IAS officer, leaving his job travelling all across india on an Enfield Thunderbird all alone to explore a "Karmic network of 25,320 km". The plot and description looks very impressive but the book is not. Tenzing's endeavour was not a quest but a meditation. He spent most of his time on bike, he didn't mingle with any local guy. He introduce a character, 2-3 comments that is it. There is wit in this book not wisdom. His writing style matches with his traveling. Well, his achievement of course deserves a salute.
While not being an in depth exploration in to any particular topic, PG's book is a an enjoyable quick read especially for some one wanting to regain the lost hobby of reading. It can be finished in a day flat because of the light content and the humour. It does however highlight some of the indaquacies of the bureaucracy and the poor state of infrastructure and standard of living in most parts of India.
Enjoyable, Often funny and insightful. 3.2 / 3.3 rating
Felt like it was hurriedly written and could have been a bit more descriptive.
For most of us it is a dream to embrace what we love to do but he did it and that made me a bit jealous of him. The book is more like scribblings of a man who embarked on a journey to cover India on road and met his friends on the way.
If you want to read this book expecting a full fledged travelogue you will be disappointed.