The New Taste of Chocolate: A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes

by Maricel E. Presilla

Cacao importer and chocolate expert Maricel Presilla takes chocoholics to new territory‚Äîto the almost primeval plantations of Latin America, where the world's first, and today's finest, cacaos are grown. Presilla, who is at the forefront of the revolution in fine chocolate making, explains that the flavor and quality of chocolate depend on the complex genetic profiles of different cacao strains and on cacao farmers carrying out careful, rigorous harvesting and fermentation practices. With 25 recipes from internationally known pastry chefs and chocolatiers like Pierre Herm?© and Elizabeth Faulkner, and directions for making chocolate at home, THE NEW TASTE OF CHOCOLATE elevates our taste for this food of the gods to a whole new level.‚Ä¢ Presilla is a cacao supplier for premier chocolate makers, such as Scharffen Berger and Guittard, and a consultant to the world's top pastry chefs.‚Ä¢ Over 100 gorgeous location, identification, and food photos.

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, Cooking, Cookbooks

160 pages, Hardcover

First published October 1, 2000

Reviews

[Rebecca · Rating 5 out of 5]

I bought this book several years ago, along with a molinillo at a (then) small and artisanal chocolate maker in Somerville, MA. I was drawn in by the cover, and didn't really engage with it much before buying it, assuming it would be a "coffee-table" book with recipes. Instead, this is an extraordinary account of the different historical and cultural contexts of cacao, with a clear explanation of the different types of plants, provenances, and uses by chocolate makers. The level of detail, particularly in the botanical section, is extensive, and Presilla manages to find a great tone that strikes a balance between journalism and historiography. This is not a book for chocolate snobs who have no interest in the beginning and end of the journey of cacao. The author offers nuanced advice for how to learn about and appreciate chocolate and is even-handed in her assessments: "...today even the largest commercial makers have hopped on the bandwagon for boutique-type labeling with identification of national origin. This information is helpful to a point, but it is not an infallible clue to quality. The fact that the cacao was grown in an exotic-sounding country says very little about the cacao itself--for instance, the variety or the particular region of origin within a country" (140). Presilla honors the rich traditions of using cacao amongst indigenous peoples in Mexico and South America and provides a very informed cultural understanding of the import of cacao in both anti-colonial and colonial contexts.

And then there are the recipes. Admittedly, one will likely need access to high quality chocolate, nibs, and or cacao beans, but Presilla offers some online sources for purchase (I have not checked these out). The photography is gorgeous, and indeed...it will not be long before I try Maya-Mediterranean Chocolate Rice Pudding of her "Imagined" Maya Turkey Soup-Stew with Cacao and Chiles.

This is a remarkable book-- "illustrated reference" is the description on the dust jacket, but I think that does not adequately describe what it offers. If you have interests in global cuisine and a cultural history of food, this should be part of your library. Definitely one of the most interesting books I have read in the genre.

[Rachael Lauritzen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic introduction to what chocolate is really about. Loved the history, loved the scientific/botanical explanations, and loved the maker and tasting sections. The recipes look amazing and delightful, but it will take me more time to make and review those.... There have been some changes in the industry since it was published, so it's worth reading more recent things if you really want to be on the up and up.

[Robin D. · Rating 5 out of 5]

For chocolate lovers, chocolate makers, chocolate enthusiasts, or those looking to learn, this is your book! Detailed in the book are the various regions where cacao beans are grown, the complexity within the varieties, and provides an in depth look at what truly constitutes fine chocolate and cacao. Beautiful illustrations and thorough information. A reference worthy book for the shelf!

[Sonja Isaacson · Rating 3 out of 5]

I didn't know it was possible to be BORED reading about CHOCOLATE! She just talks too much about the various strains of cacao.

I really enjoyed all the historical documents and images that are included. Some of the recipes look intriguing to try. And now when we are Powerball winners, I may have a greenhouse built so I can try and have a Minnesota strain of cacao.

[James · Rating 3 out of 5]

Maricel E. Presilla gives us a highly informative yet simple look at the variety of cocoa beans and cocoa products that go into modern chocolate. She provides enough historical context to allow the reader to understand contemporary cocoa production without bogging the reader down in names and dates. This book should satisfy the curiosity of non-specialist chocolate lovers who want to know why some chocolate has complex aromas and flavors while other chocolate is simple and unsatisfying.

[Karla · Rating 4 out of 5]

A more recent edition of this book. You are really going to have to have a strong interest in all things chocolate to get through this book. It goes into quite a bit of detail that the casual chocolate fan may not be attentive to. It does have some great picture though.

[Hajdi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent book about cacao, it's history, and future. Interested in trying some of the recipes!

[Daniel Morgan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a very fun book! The first 140 pages explain cacao as a crop. This includes new classifications based on genetics, the history of its cultivation in Mesoamerica, modern producers, how to identify different types. The second half of the books is recipes from all over the world. I love how richly illustrated this book is, with hundreds of photographs, maps, and old art pieces.

[Douglas · Rating 4 out of 5]

From the different species, to an incredible history of global production and trade, this book has it all. Great photos of a world I never knew about.

The author is a bit of a chocolate snob, like a single malt whiskey lover, she only prefers single source chocolate with a known heritage. But, if your budget allows, maybe you'll be come a snob too after reading this book.

[Ursyl · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm creeping my way through this, since I sometimes fall asleep a little too easily when reading non-fiction. We are going to try some of the recipes though.
I'm enjoying learning the history of my favorite food and about the cultures that discovered it.

[Sarah · Rating 3 out of 5]

I learned a lot about chocolate! And I definitely want to try some of the recipes...

[Danielle · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's "Identifying Cacao" and "Tasting Chocolate" sections are unique and worth reading for anyone serious about learning about chocolate.