Grand Tibet et vaste Chine

by Alexandra David-Néel

Alexandra David-Neel raconte ses quarante années de voyages extraordinaires à travers Le Grand Tibet et la Vaste Chine dans ces cinq textes inoubliables réunis en un seul volume. "Avrai dire, j'ai le mal du pays pour un pays qui n'est pas le mien. Les steppes, les solitudes, les neiges éternelles et le grand ciel clair de "là-haut" me hantent ! Les heures difficiles, la faim, le froid, le vent qui me tailladait la figure [...] les camps dans la neige, dormant dans la boue glacée, et les haltes parmi la population crasseuse jusqu'à l'invraisemblance, la cupidité des villageois, tout cela importait peu, ces misères passaient vite et l'on restait perpétuellement immergé dans le silence où seul le vent chantait, dans les solitudes presque vides même de vie végétale, les chaos de roches fantastiques, les pies vertigineux et les horizons de lumière aveuglante. Pays qui semble appartenir à un autre monde, pays de titans ou de dieux. Je reste ensorcelée." Ce sont à la fois les hauts plateaux tibétains et les confins nord-ouest de la Chine himalayenne que célèbrent avec une nostalgie poignante ces lignes d'Alexandra David-Neel. Chine et Tibet sont en effet les pays de prédilection de la célèbre exploratrice. Elle les a parcourus sur des milliers de kilomètres de jungle, de steppes ou de solitudes glacées, à pied, à dos de yack ou de mule, le plus souvent par des chemins inexplorés. Ces voyages, Alexandra David-Néel les a racontés dans une série de livres inoubliables rassemblés ici en un seul volume, sous le titre simple mais évocateur de Grand Tibet et Vaste Chine. Le premier récit débute en février 1921, quand Alexandra entreprend le projet fou de rejoindre Lhassa, la cité sainte perchée sous le toit du monde, à pied, déguisée en mendiante. La dernière aventure prend fin en 1946, quand, famélique et vêtue de hardes, elle échappe aux horreurs de la guerre sino-japonaise. Dans chacun des cinq textes qui couvrent ces deux périodes d'exploration, le lecteur retrouvera intacts l'acuité du regard, la profondeur de réflexion, l'humour, tout ce qui fait l'immense talent de celle que l'on a surnommée "la femme aux semelles de vent".

1139 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1994

About the author

Alexandra David-Néel was an explorer, anarchist, spiritualist, Buddhist and writer. She is most known for her visit to the forbidden (to foreigners) city of Lhasa, capital of Tibet (1924). She was born in Paris, France and died in Digne, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. She wrote more than 30 books, about Eastern religion, philosophy, and her travels. Her well-documented teachings influenced the beat writers Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg, and philosopher Alan Watts.

Her real name was Louise Eugenie Alexandrine Marie David. During her childhood she had a strong desire for freedom and spirituality. At the age of 18, she had already visited England, Switzerland and Spain on her own, and she was studying in Madame Blavatsky's Theosophical Society.

In 1890 and 1891, she traveled through India, returning only when running out of money. In Tunis she met the railroad engineer Philippe Néel, whom she married in 1904.

In 1911 Alexandra traveled for the second time to India, to further her study of Buddhism. She was invited to the royal monastery of Sikkim, where she met Maharaj Kumar (crown prince) Sidkeon Tulku. She became Sidkeong's "confidante and spiritual sister" (according to Ruth Middleton), perhaps his lover (Foster & Foster). She also met the thirteenth Dalai Lama twice in 1912, and had the opportunity to ask him many questions about Buddhism—a feat unprecedented for a European woman at that time.

In the period 1914-1916 she lived in a cave in Sikkim, near the Tibetan border, learning spirituality, together with the Tibetan monk Aphur Yongden, who became her lifelong traveling companion, and whom she would adopt later. From there they trespassed into Tibetan territory, meeting the Panchen Lama in Shigatse (August 1916). When the British authorities learned about this—Sikkim was then a British protectorate—Alexandra and Yongden had to leave the country, and, unable to return to Europe in the middle of World War I, they traveled to Japan.

There Alexandra met Ekai Kawaguchi, who had visited Lhasa in 1901 disguised as a Chinese doctor, and this inspired her to visit Lhasa disguised as pilgrims. After traversing China from east to west, they reached Lhasa in 1924, and spent 2 months there.

In 1928 Alexandra separated from Philippe. Later they would reconcile, and Philippe kept supporting her till his death in 1941. Alexandra settled in Digne, and during the next 10 years she wrote books.

In 1937, Yongden and Alexandra went to China, traveling there during the second World War, returning to France only in 1946. She was then 78 years old.

In 1955 Yongden died. Alexandra continued to study and write till her death at age 100.