Just finished this book. I loved it. I loved it for its bravery, for its honesty, for its insight and for the talent the author brought to telling this awful story.
I was in Hong Kong in 1979 and I loved it too. It was alien and exotic and chaotic and wonderful... everything this book is. I would spend my days shopping and eating with the locals, amazed at the food; then I would go back to my very English-y hotel and love the tidiness, the service the drinks, and especially the coffee, which you could not find outside of the hotel. I loved how Theroux brought that all back for me... the smells, good and bad, the Star Ferry, the people and images, the freedom...
After my week in Hong Kong, I went into Kowloon, and then into Communist China, a place that had only very recently been opened to foreigners, to a place called Canton, now known as Guangdong Province. It was a different world, like going back in time (which Paul Theroux successfully pulled off for this reader).
Getting back to the novel, this stark difference, two societies, one chaotic but free, and one totally organized but a police state, is what the Hong Kong Chinese KNEW. They knew what the 'hand over' would mean for them and their loved ones... unlike many ignorant Americans.
Yes, China was beautiful, but sad, very sad. Instead of the hustle and bustle of 1979 Hong Kong, it was quiet, too quiet, dirt poor, a 19th century throwback--they did not have electrification in many provinces and cities. Houses were cold, toilets outdoors. But worse than that, the people were like prisoners, astounded at the Guielos tourists. We tourists were dressed well, in multi-colored modern clothing, snapping pictures with our Polaroid cameras, white the Chinese, except for a few, wore the bright blue silk-padded jackets, a sea of look-alikes. The only vehicles you saw were expensive government limousines chauffeuring communist politicians around (Two legs good; four legs bad!) and drab green army trucks shuttling bored-looking, red star-capped soldiers here and there. The people were warm and curious, and I sometimes felt like I was a zoo creature as they scrutinized me, sometimes speaking, but from a distance, afraid to get too close... due to the ever-watching soldiers.
Unlike in British Hong Kong, in China we stayed in a hotel where the doors had no locks. You knew they were going through your things while you were out on your tour... with your 'minder.' You went nowhere unaccompanied (although me and a few British tourists did sneak away, only to be quickly found and escorted back to the hotel (not by the soldiers, but by our minder.) This experience is why I loved the dark awfulness of Theroux' portrayal of Hung and the PLA overlords. We now have a lot of people like Hung here in America--socialists or communist on the outside, but greedy and criminal on the inside. Washington is full of them. So, for these reason I was astounded and saddened by this book, because Theroux brings the reality of (Chinese) communism vs Liberty to life. And he spares no one, not the Hong Kong Chinese, nor the British Hong Kong residents.
I knew after finishing this book, even before I got here to post about it, that I would find many negative reviews by Americans who have been taught that being critical is 'not being nice.' I knew that this novel would garner a lot of one-star slams for its courage and truthfulness. Well, that just makes me love it even more. And based on what I see here, it is clear to me that what has happened to Hong Kong, can, and 'may be' happening here in America. We seem about to be ‘handed over’ to some Chinese communist-like government. We now have political leaders who not only kowtow to China, but regurgitate its propaganda, who laud its heavy-handedness and admire its ability to ‘get things done,’ while we, due to our (quickly dissipating) freedoms move too slowly for them into the brave new world of communism and consumerism. Just as Mister Hung showed up in the ‘end times’ of Hong Kong, we now have American leaders showing up, openly pushing China-style totalitarianism on us.
How wonderful that there is this book, Kowloon Tong, that could perhaps serve as a warning to Americans. And how sad that so many on here don’t seem to recognize that.