I Have Iraq in My Shoe: Misadventures of a Soldier of Fashion

by Gretchen Berg

It's the timeless, classic girl-meets-recession, recession-forces-girl-to-go-to-Iraq. I Have Iraq in My Shoe follows the author out of her comfort zone and into the Middle East. Taking the wit of Jen Lancaster and the fun of Sophie Kinsella and moving it to the desert, this is the story of a single, fashion-obsessed American female who finds herself metaphorically strapping on a Kevlar caftan to work in Iraq for a year. Irreverent and hilarious, saucy and smart, it's a tale of lessons both taught and learned, and all in the midst of a war from teaching Iraqi women in headscarves while wearing designer pumps to enduring the shame and frustration of astronomical luggage fees.

Genres: Nonfiction, Memoir, Travel, Humor

400 pages, Paperback

First published May 1, 2012

About the author

Gretchen is an internationally-published author who spent many years working in the fields of education and travel. Her parents had always encouraged her to write, but she waited until she heard “you are a writer" from more trustworthy advisors: a London psychic, and a taxicab driver in Athens, Greece. The taxicab driver also said they had been lovers in a previous life. She has traveled to over forty-five countries, and set foot on all seven continents. Her first foray into writing was the 2012 memoir I HAVE IRAQ IN MY SHOE, which was re-released in 2025. Also released in 2025 was her suspense/thriller ANTIGUA. Her 2020 novel THE OPERATOR has been translated into six languages, and was an Amazon “Editor’s Pick” for Best Literature & Fiction.

Reviews

[Michelle · Rating 1 out of 5]

This book is about a woman who chooses to teach ESL courses to adults in Northern Iraq. Although the book had an entertaining beginning, I realized quickly that the light fluffiness was not going to be alleviated by insight or information into the Iraqi culture - and it never was. There was a great deal of information about the author's relationships with fellow teachers and the school's administration, but very little about living near and interacting with the people of Iraq. I appreciate a light entertaining read, but I expected more from this book. I did finish the book, but I don't believe I will recommend it to my friends.

[Mary BookHounds · Rating 4 out of 5]

MY THOUGHTS
LOVED IT

Just the other day, a friend asked me for a funny memoir about an American ex pat in a really foreign land. She said that France and Italy had been done to death and she wanted something exotic. Well, Gretchen Berg has the perfect book for anyone (especially those Sex and the City fans) looking for a fun read about sand in your designer shoes. Berg has a take no prisoners writing style much like Jen Lancaster and Laurie Notaro that is guaranteed to offend at least one person in every group. I adore this writing style so of course I loved it. Some of her tales really made me laugh out loud which is always a good thing.


Berg goes through the steps as to how she ended up teaching English in Iraq (financial, liberal time off, frequent flyer miles). The funniest moment is when she is told she must yell at anyone to get anything done and there is no Diet Coke but an awesome representation of American Culture in the form of a grocery store. Of course, all of the products available are counterfeit and with her piles of luggage, she didn't need to bring the Turkish Towels since they had them at the store. The story leads through her time in Iraq and her side trips on her time off. She pays off her debt and makes new friends while exploring the world which is something I would rather read about then try myself.

[Holly Satterwhite · Rating 3 out of 5]

While I enjoyed the writer's style of voice in the first part of the book, I got sick of her acting like a spoiled, whiny 23- year old. This woman 39, when these events took place in her life. What really annnoyed me was this school was paying her 70,000+ a year to teach English classes, and she complained because the Provost of the College wanted to stay the night, for 1 night in her villa.

I thought it would be a chance to learn about the Iraq culture from an American's perspective, but all she did was complain, even when she traveled to other countries. The part about the money spent for luggage on airplanes was funny.

[Sidra · Rating 2 out of 5]

I am conflicted. On one hand I really enjoyed the book, she genuinely talks about her experiences, even takes the time to relate it to other context before judging. I too teach Iraqi students and found many of the stories relatable and sweet. However, on the other hand, the ending was abrupt, and she finished the book having still a very surface understanding of things. Teaching 2-12 students is pretty much a vacation in any actual teacher's book, and the constant stupidness of spending money on extra baggage is regrettable, once was funny, not so much the third or fourth time. I wished she had stopped thinking of shoes, love and actually experience the people. Most of them are described as pretty much one dimensional in almost a racist manner. In short, enjoyed the beginning, was disappointed by the end.

[ِEiman Jafar · Rating 1 out of 5]

Complain complain complain. That's what she did all through the book. Complain and criticize. Instead of criticizing what she read in stupid pamphlets about Islam's treatment of women and the rationalization, I wish she tried to search the topic and find out about what current thinkers and liberals say about the topic and the changes going on in regards to women's rights. She only mixed with drivers, shop keepers etc, but did not have the chance to mix with the more educated Intellectuals, so she made generalizations based on what she saw. I understand she missed a lot of things from Western culture but that doesn't mean what the Eastern culture has is not as good. Her attitude is vey condescending and she acts and writes like she's a 16 year old and not a mature 39 year old. Even her reactions to certain situations that do not involve cultural matters are very immature

[Carla Johnson · Rating 1 out of 5]

This books was about an unlikable ugly American. All she did was whine and complain about her co-workers, paying extra baggage fees on her many jaunts to Europe, and her lack "privacy" in her villa on a posh compound. She should have had to sleep on bunk in a shipping container on a US base like the military personnel who were over there risking their lives. This book is nothing but a vanity book written by a very shallow, entitled person. A complete waste of time. I'm thankful I checked it out of my public library instead of spending my hard earned money on it.

[Jolie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I just finished this book yesterday and I loved it! Ms. Berg's memoir of her time in Iraq is witty, clever, informative, heartwarming, and laugh out loud funny. I couldn't put it down. If you have any interest in any of the following areas, you should definitely read this book: humor, travel, fashion, shoes, cultural studies, equal rights, memoirs.....

[Kourtney · Rating 5 out of 5]

I saw a recommendation for this book on the website www.chicklitisnotdead.com and I just had to read it. I am so glad I did! This book sucked me in at the begining and I had a tough time putting it down. Parts of the book made me laugh, and it sometimes reminded me a bit of Jen Lancaster's style of writing (3 parts witty, 2 parts sarcasm, and 1 part footnotes). This memoir is written all from the POV of Gretchen Berg - how she accepted a teaching job in Iraq, getting herself and her belongings there, and then what she witnessed and learned about Iraq culture while teaching, looking for her soul mate, and travelling the world. If you are looking for an essay on Muslim culture look elsewhere. If you want an honest, unapologetic look at one American's time in Iraq with humor and a bit of shoe shopping thrown in for good measure, then this is the book for you! My only wish would be a "where are they now" section of where many of the people she came across are now. Highly recommend!

**Update** If you go to Gretchen Berg's website www.gretchenbergbooks.com there are pictures posted that correspond with specific chapters! Bonus!

[Chelsea · Rating 4 out of 5]

Full of humor, this book definitely perked me up during finals week. While it's probably not rated very high on the scale of a travel guide, if you're a Sex in the City kind of girl who has a passion for collecting shoes and toying with the idea of finding a soul mate in a foreign land, then yes, by all means, read this book. And for anyone looking for a travel guide, might I suggest giving up and reading this book instead? You'll laugh far more often, learn a couple cities' names, and multiple ways to say "Thank you." All very important information. You might even find a friend along the way--a friend by the name of Gretchen, a travel guide who can point you to the best shoe sale and the best overpriced cafe.

[Jen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thought provoking, yet laugh out loud moments!

[Amy Westall · Rating 2 out of 5]

cute and funny. I was really wanting to read more about the PEOPLE of Iraq. Also, could have done without the sexual content.

[Bonnie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Easy, fluffy read for the lazy pool days. The author kind of annoyed me - she was very narcissistic and whiny, which was a huge turn off and made it hard to root for her.

[Beppie · Rating 3 out of 5]

A witty, designer shoe-filled memoir of Gretchen Berg's time spent in "The Iraq" (actually Erbil in Kurdistan) during the recession of 2007-8. In an attempt to have a bit of an adventure, as well as to make some fast money to pay off her extremely high credit card debt (much of which was accrued buying said high-end footwear), Berg embarks on a 2 year contract teaching English as a Second Language to Middle Eastern adults. Much hilarity ensues! As well as the consumption of many glasses of wine and a lot of questionable food items from the locale desert version of a Quik-Mart!

Berg portrays herself as the snarky, heavy luggage-toting schoolmaurm who's just trying to fit her Western World girliness round peg into the not so female friendly landscape of her Middle Eastern university's square hole. As hard as that may have been in actuality, her retelling here makes you want to try it yourself. Well, maybe "try it" is too strong a concept. More like....uhhhh...NO! Not even for all the wine and hummus you can eat or drink! Nope...hmmm...well, maybe for the shoes. Maybe. Hey! Who doesn't love shoes?!😜

Seriously, I read this book after finishing her EXCELLENT debut novel "The Operator." I thoroughly enjoyed it and both books contain what I now see is her signature sense of humor. The kind that mades you laugh aloud in all the right places and keeps a smile on your face long afterward. 😁

[Pravina · Rating 4 out of 5]

I remember reading this years ago and loving it but then still don’t know why I didn’t finish it.

Reading this the second time, I probably understand why I liked it then and now because it’s such an easy book to read and Gretchen is witty and funny. I was giggling at some parts.

However, I was not really happy about her “little crush”, every time I read through that, it was so cringy.

I liked the parts where she would talk about the difference in the culture of the various parts of the country. I wished I had more of that bits of her interacting with the public as well as sharing her thoughts on that.

I know this book is mainly on Iraq, however, it would’ve been nice if she also shared about the other places she visited during her vacation. Maybe they didn’t want to drag it or sway away from the main focus which is her “teaching in Iraq”

It did not have a major plot or whatsoever. It was just a very simple book but interestingly kept me drawn into it from the right beginning to the very end.

Rating: 7.5/10

[Greg Logan · Rating 4 out of 5]

The first few pages of this book almost turned me right off. The style seemed to me a little over-the-top, loud and vociferous, too-clever. But I’m glad I persevered, because this proved to be one of the most entertaining books I’ve read for a while. That’s not saying nothing because I’m a 72 year old retired male, whose reading interests are fairly catholic but mainly serious (i.e. history and literature), although my favourite twentieth century authors are women like Lessing, Drabble etc (though none had a shoe fetish).
Berg is always funny. Only once, writing of the lady and her ‘heaps of sheiks’ (p.330) did she come across as a teensy bitchy. But the book also has its instructive side, being an interesting insight into pre-ISIS Iraq and, generally, into Islamic attitudes (especially towards women).
A very worthwhile read.

[Anji · Rating 1 out of 5]

The protagonist (an American teacher who moves to Kurdistan, Iraq) lacks cultural sensitivity and has stereotypical views about Arab culture even after having lived in Iraq for nearly two years. Throughout her stay in Iraq, she makes no attempt to assimilate to the local culture or get to know locals. She constantly looks down upon "smelly" Arabs and their culture. Even though she tries to redeem herself in the last couple of pages by mentioning a couple of positives about life in Iraq, that is not sufficient to compensate for 350 plus pages of whining.

[Marissa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such an interesting read, I was already invested after about 1/3 of the book. It’s culturally educational yet witty. I love how Gretchen describes the people whom she have met along the way. Makes me think that Iraq isn’t so bad to relocate to after all. I still adored Awat even after that twist towards the end.

[Kelli · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved the humour and honesty of this book. It was informative and entertaining. I did at times find the author generalised in her description of various 'middle eastern' quirks and was some what narrow minded in her remarks regarding Islam. I am thinking anyone of the Islamic faith should perhaps steer clear of this one! However, over all I quite liked it.

[Jen · Rating 1 out of 5]

DNF, this book is kind of slow and talks about her experience being in Iraq which is mostly a the university or her house. Not much about the people or culture. You don't really learn anything about Iraq just her. She wines alot and loves to shop. She doesn't seem to do much else. She doesn't try to experience the culture there.

[Michelle Harvey · Rating 5 out of 5]

Hysterical!! Loved stepping out of my own shoes to read about someone’s amazing adventure. Would you be this adventurous? I know I would not. I also would have never paid an overweight baggage fee! Soaked up every ounce of Gretchen’s wittiness! This book is pure entertainment!!

[Sarita · Rating 3 out of 5]

Really appreciated the cultural info. and experiences she shared. I personally could have done without the extra expat drama thrown in, but that was a huge part of her story so I understand why she chose to include it.

[Sharmaine · Rating 4 out of 5]

T'was a funny and delightful read! Also informative. :)

[greyt_things · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved it! A feel-good, entertaining romp of a read - in The Iraq 🤣🤣🤣

[DMuse · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very entertaining memoir, if not entirely accurate. I heard afterwards that Gretchen embellished quite a bit. Still a good read.

[Jane]

With one exception (you'll know it when you see it) I found this a fun and entertaining read about one woman's ex-pat life in Iraq.

[Subha Mohan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Was interesting 3/4 but eventually d ending was kinda off .

[Zainab Zaidi]

I enjoyed reading it!

[Neona · Rating 3 out of 5]

I would give it a 4 for humor alone. Crazy story and fun read

[Zainab Zaidi · Rating 5 out of 5]

eye opener!

[Summer · Rating 3 out of 5]

I thought I'd like this because I liked "Kabul Beauty School"by Deborah Rodriguez. This is also about a woman who goes to the Middle East with very little knowledge about the region. It also has a light-hearted tone. The memoirists in each case are "girls' girls", smart enough in their fields, but also a little annoying in certain ways (which makes them kind of relatable, I guess)

Unlike Rodriguez, Berg did not exactly immerse herself in the culture. I felt sad that by the end of her stay, she hadn't made any genuine connections with any Kurds at all. She never even described attending a dinner with a Kurdish family or anything of the sort. She spent all voluntary moments with other ex-pats - mostly British, a few Australians. She made no attempt what so ever to learn the language. (She makes a point that Kurdish is notoriously amorphous, but she could have learned a bit of Arabic, IMHO)

Frankly, she came off kind of xenophobic for a world traveler. How can one really think that Kurdish pilots are unsafe to fly with because if a problem occurs, they will shout "InShallah!" and remove their hands from the controls??? There are a great many deeply religious people all over the world who still manage to do their jobs despite (or because of) their strongly held conviction that "God" is ultimately in control of all things.

She felt that the constant refrains of "Insallah"she heard from her students meant that they would not study or try hard to do things in their lives. I find this point of view very odd. If religious people weren't capable of doing labor-intensive things, America probably wouldn't exist. I'll have to take her word for it that the Kurds were super laid back (I certainly am not trying to travel to Kurdistan any time soon) but surely she's met other Muslims in her travels. (Maybe not. It kind of seems she just hangs with people like her... what a shame!)

So, really, it's not much of a travelogue. She doesn't do a ton of describing Iraq or Kurdistan. She doesn't do much to learn about the culture. (She literally QUOTES WIKIPEDIA when she wants to illuminate an obscure bit of Kurdish life, which, frankly, I found a bit insulting. I could have googled that stuff. I picked up this book to get YOUR boots-on-the-ground view. If you must quote someone else, make it someone really GOOD.) She does take a vacation to Oman and puts good descriptions of that in the book.

Most of the book is her complaints about her boss and coworkers and funny stories about her students. I know this sounds awful, but she has a breezy, funny way of writing and I actually really enjoyed it.