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352 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1991
[Sachiko] in turn…was introducing me to many things, not least the shallowness of my own reading of Japan. As I went on blathering about Hiroshige or Buson, I realized that it must have sounded as jejune and uninformed to her as typical Japanese raptures about Chopin did to us. And when I told her, proudly, about my visit to the famous geisha show, she was singularly unimpressed. “You know Michael Douglas movie?” “You mean Fatal Attraction?” “Ping-pong! This Miyako Odori, little same feeling!”
Iyers get as deep into the Japanese soul as a perceptive foreigner can...a love story unique in the annals of travel writing.
These sunny, baffling sentiments were everywhere in Japan--on T-shirts, carrier bags, and photo albums--rhyming, in their way, with the relentlessly chirpy voices that serenaded one on elevators, buses, and trains; it did not take a Roland Barthes to identify Japan as an Empire of Signs. These snippets of nonsense poetry were also, of course, the first and easiest target most foreigners in Japan, since they were often almost the only signs in English, and absurd: creamers called Creep, Noise snacks that came in different colors, pet cases known as Effem...Every newly arrived foreigner could become an instant sociologist...- Iyer, p. 220
and finally, it began to rain, pittering and pattering on all the flimsy roofs and walls.
"shito-shito," said Joe softly. "and goro-goro for thunder. za-za for heavy rain. pica-pica for starlight. you don't have words for these things. just sounds, man, perfect sounds." and i thought how well you could always hear rain here, on wooden walls and roofs, in every japanese poem and home.”
”the japanese were famous, I knew, for their delight in lacrimae rerum and for finding beauty mostly in sadness; indeed, it was ten noted that their word for "love" and their word for "grief" are homonyms - and almost synonyms too - in a culture that seems to love grief, of the wistful kind, and to grieve for love. so i was hardly surprised to learn that most of their stories were sad and that all of them ended in parting. parting was the definition of sweet sorrow here.”