This book belongs in the category of place writing. It’s a loving examination of the Upcountry of South Carolina, written by a man who had grown up in these same hills. So by definition it’s no book of travel. Nor is it a memoir since we learn few biographical details about the author Ben Robertson. We read about his grandfather and grandmother, Aunt Narcissa, and other individuals living around these hills, but the subtitle gets it exactly right by calling the book a “memory” rather than a “memoir.” The book appealed to me during a visit to this part of South Carolina. Driving through stretches of country we passed Baptist church after Baptist church, often with an attached cemetery. In the midst of this “Bible Belt” landscape we also caught glimpses of the BMW plant in Spartanburg and walked through the smartly developed downtown of Greenville. I found this Red Hills and Cotton on the local interest shelves at the M. Judson Bookstore on Main Street in Greenville.
This is a book that would be difficult to discuss now in a college class, representing as it does a white southern point of view. Beginning the chapter on his grandfather, Robertson mentions that he “took part dutifully in the first Ku-Klux Klan—he had ridden at night like all the rest of our kinfolks.” It is disconcerting to have the author set this fact out and then move into fulsome praise of the moral character of that grandfather. At the same time the author felt himself in broad alignment with the New Deal of Franklin Roosevelt (no surprise since this was then the Solid South), so both book and author are impossible to align with our political present. Despite his acceptance of the Southern past and its racial inequalities, Robertson portrays a way of being in this world. My inclination as a reader—my ethic, you could even say—is to engage with any attempt to set down in words a way of seeing and feeling the world.
Red Hills and Cotton was published in 1942, but it functions as a treasury of popular themes. Early in the book Robertson takes up the idea of rambling. His kinfolks were natural ramblers, ready to pick up and go someplace new just for the sake of doing it. He tells of a cousin who went to church, heard a sermon, and then decided he just had to go somewhere he’d never been to before. And so the cousin takes off for Macon, Georgia, leaving behind his responsibilities. He didn’t do anything in particular in Macon, just hung out, but it was someplace different and that was all that mattered. I’m probably not the only reader who would recall the chorus “Lord, I was born a ramblin’ man” by the Allman Brothers.
Something similar happens as Robertson discusses how trains were perceived in the South. In much of English literature trains are the embodiment of modernity, bringing timetables and industrial exactitude. Robertson grew up with a different view: “They were not plodding cars making their way, over and over again, from station to station, working like a clock. They were free agents, roaring through the night, speeding off into distance.” Yet again a rich musical heritage comes to mind, from “Lonesome Whistle” to “Mystery Train.” The train in these songs is no schedule-bound machine but a lost ghost passing over the landscape.
This is no book about the generic “South.” Part of its charm is Robertson’s insistence on keeping the focus tight on his particular place. He pointedly distinguishes his Upcountry from Charleston and the coast (“We knew more about Texas and California than we knew about Charleston”). The Upcountry was not the South of plantations and tall white columns. Those things were characteristic of another place. He describes how the Upcountry had been settled by migrants from the North rather than colonial high-church planters. For me this helped me reimagine the winding roads, with all those Baptist churches and small land-holdings, as a displaced and clannish remnant of Puritanism.
In other ways the Upcountry was a full participant in the greater South. Robertson’s stories are a vivid proof of the centrality of the Civil War in white southern identity. The old Lost Cause narrative takes on the trappings of a religious tradition. The conflicts of the war became the stories that could always be repeated and relived: “Like most Southerners, I visit battlefields.” These battlefields are sacred sites connected to stories that he had heard over and over from his grandparents and others. Even eating all the food on his plate becomes associated with a memory of the Confederacy, since his grandparents could never forget the “days of starvation” in the South. At any time or place a reference to the Civil War was liable to come up, an anecdote related. Yes, these people were true Baptists in theology, but everything bled into the Civil War, as is clear in this passage: “...intuition has led us in the South to Andrew Jackson, to Lee and Stonewall Jackson, to Appomattox too and to Château-Thierry [World War I] and to Calvary and the Cross.” The religion reflected there is “Lost-Causeism.”
In the person of Aunt Narcissa we get a fleeting glimpse of someone who stood outside that Lost Cause narrative: “She talked hardly at all about the Civil War.” Her stories were about the Revolutionary War and the West. Walking around downtown Spartanburg and Greenville I had noticed the lack of Civil War monuments. The absence of the Civil War in these public spaces was notable given the depth of feeling that Robertson demonstrates had existed. But the business-first philosophy of these main streets could only truly flourish as the Civil War was demoted, or at least forced to retreat into private spaces. Aunt Narcissa with her interest in the founding narratives of the country (in which the Southern states participated) pointed the way toward a different stance. It’s Revolutionary War heroes that are represented in statues along these main streets.
This Lost-Causeism had to be jettisoned not only because it could repel Northern visitors, but also because it was an ideology overtly hostile to business interests. The anathema of modern business practices and values is one of the main themes of Robertson’s book: “We do not understand shares and stocks, the use of money to make money... we want to work for a man we know personally, to live in our own house.” The fear of mechanical life is always present, and the only resistance to that capitalistic world is a linked system of small landholders. But the BMW plant and the new housing divisions, not to mention the successful downtown of Greenville, depend on a new way of seeing the world.