Sacred Waters: A Pilgrimage up the Ganges River to the Source of Hindu Culture

by Stephen Alter

The author of All the Way to Heaven chronicles his journey up the Ganges River in search of the headwaters of this most sacred of Indian waterways, exploring ancient myths, remote towns, long-lost temples, and the way of the pilgrim. 15,000 first printing.

Genres: Travel, India, Nonfiction, Travelogue, Religion

384 pages, Hardcover

First published October 17, 2001

About the author

STEPHEN ALTER is the son of American missionaries to the Himalayas, and was raised in India. The author of seven books for adults, he is the former Writer-in-Residence at MIT, and a recipient of a Fulbright grant. He currently lives in India with his wife, where he is researching his newest book for adults—a behind the scenes look at the world of Bollywood.

Reviews

[Sundarraj Kaushik · Rating 4 out of 5]

A must for a travelogue fan. This is a different type of travelogue. It covers that Char Dham yatra that the Indians take up to wash their sins off. Stephen Alter has no such illusions. While most Indians today prefer to take a jeep or a bus or in some cases a helicopter to cover this yatra, Stephen Alter prefers to take the age old way of walking through the four dhams of Rishikesh/Kedarnath, Yamnotri, Gangotri and Badrinath. As an epilogue he also covers his walk to the Valley of flowers which strictly does not fall under the Char Dham Yatra it is natural for people to make it to the Valley of Flowers which is more sacred for the Sikhs because of the presence of the Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara.

Through the journey the author travels all alone with no modern appendages, baring a petrol stove for cooking food and tent for staying the nights where no Dharmshalas are present.

It is an awe inspiring travel which make one wish to walk the same trail as walked by the author. Although it may be too late in the day for one to take up this journey. It is more than a decade since the author undertook the journey and in many places the walking trail had all but disappeared as the motor roads had been built by then.

The author touches upon the controversial Tehri dam and also speaks about the Chipko movement lead by Sundarlal Bahuguna.

The author feels sad on seeing the destruction wrought upon by the modernization of these areas and it is a moot question as to if these modernization has been a boon or a bane to the citizens of these areas. The logic says that with increasing tourism, albeit religious in nature, one should expect the locals to prosper, but the dark side of this is that the villages/towns which were once self sufficient, clean, hygienic the denizens, very likely happy and carefree has now become overcrowded, unhygienic and polluted. The pristine environment has been destroyed to make hotels and other amenities for the tourists. The pure mineral hot springs have been reduced to nothing better than polluted ponds.

Read the book even if you have made the journey to get a different perspective of the development of the area.

[Shakti Biswal · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great travelogue for anyone willing to walk through the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. The writer walks 600kms starting from Rishikesh & ends his journey in the Valley of Flowers - all the while trying to trace the origin or source head of Ganga. This takes him to the four important pilgrim circuits of Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath.

He walks along the old pilgrim trail wherever still existing, as the influx of roads & means of transport have made the old trails & rest houses redundant.

[Annalise Kraines · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was a very interesting book! Alter weaves the history of the Ganges with Hindu mythology masterfully. Occasionally I felt a little carried away by the mythology and history instead of having the story of his pilgrimage as the main thread, but this was overall a good read.

[Ekta Kubba · Rating 5 out of 5]

The Ganges has long captivated my soul. Over the years, I've written extensively about my deep affection for this sacred river. Hardly a year goes by without my visiting one of the many towns that line its banks. The Ganges has gifted me countless moments of joy, as well as experiences whose weight still lingers in my heart.

While the Ganges has always been a subject of deep fascination for me, I’m not here to write about my personal connection to the river. Instead, I want to share something about Sacred Waters by Stephen Alter. This book has been in my possession since April 2017, yet despite the river’s profound importance in my life, it took me eight years to finally open its pages.

My first encounter with Stephen Alter during the 2020 lockdown was a fascinating one. The first book I read by Stephen Alter was Feral Dreams, where he reimagines Mowgli’s story in a way that’s never been explored in animated films or other adaptations. In this version, Mowgli is raised by an elephant matriarch, the leader of a herd that lives in a wildlife sanctuary, which becomes his home.

Three years later, it was Stephen Alter who helped me break free from a long reading slump with his book Becoming A Mountain.

This year, as I was curating a list of books to kick off my reading journey, this book caught my eye from the bookshelf and gently nudged me to begin my new year’s reading with it.

In Sacred Waters, Stephen Alter embarks on the Char Dham Yatra in the Uttarakhand region (which was part of Uttar Pradesh at the time). It was 1999, and he chose to walk the ancient pilgrimage route, seeking out the primitive trail. Despite parts of the path being overgrown with wild vegetation, neglected, or even blasted to make way for more accessible motor roads, Alter remained steadfast in his decision to stick to the original route, avoiding the modern conveniences as much as possible.

What fascinated me most was Alter's decision to trek without a watch, a map, or a camera. He didn't rush or follow a rigid checklist; instead, he allowed himself the time to truly observe and immerse in nature’s untainted beauty, while also reflecting on the changes that the so-called development has brought over time in the form of destruction.

From the outset, he made it clear that his journey wasn't spiritual, but rather a deep exploration of the natural world and the profound faith people have in it. As he puts down,

"I would never claim to be a Hindu. Instead, I see myself as a pilgrim who does not follow the prescribed tenets of any particular faith, but seeks to find the subtle and mysterious connections between human experience, mythological narratives, and natural history."

And what I loved most was,

"If asked, I usually admit to being an atheist. At the same time, there is something in me that responds to the spiritual elements in nature. I can easily understand how the force of a river or the shape of a rock might be interpreted as something larger than itself. Ritual has always fascinated me and though I offer no allegiance to the deities and doctrines of any one religion, I cannot help but be intrigued by the gestures of different faiths."

Alter journeyed to several sources of the Ganges - Yamunotri (Yamuna), Gangotri (Bhagirathi), Kedarnath (Mandakini), and Badrinath (Alaknanda) being the main destinations. However, he didn’t restrict himself to just these four. Along the way, he ventured to various Kedars, Badris, and Prayags. His quest was not only for the landscapes, but for the stories, folklore, mythological tales, and facts that enriched the journey.


I had long ago decided never to write book reviews, preferring instead to simply feel and savour what I read. But I couldn’t help myself this time, as the book had been with me for the past three weeks, and I felt compelled to jot down my thoughts. Stephen Alter's Sacred Waters has been more than just a book; it’s a journey in itself, one that has deepened my connection with the Ganges and its spiritual significance. His words invite reflection, not only on the river but on the nature of pilgrimage, time, and transformation. It’s a beautiful reminder that some journeys are meant to be experienced slowly, with open eyes and a patient heart. All I can say is, "What a wonderful start to the year!"

[Jerome Armstrong · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book combines it all in places:
"Swarg Ashram. Heavenly Abode.
A row of temples and res houses rise up from the eastern bank of the Ganga. Between the bathing ghats and the ashrams runs a narrow lane. The bazaar that borders this passageway is made up of tiny ships, most of them selling religious paraphernalia-- conch shells and rudraksha beads, cotton scarves, and shawls dyed different shadow os fo saffron, with the names of Ram and other deities printed in continuous pattern on the fabric. Cows roam the congested market, oblivious to the pedestrian's edging past their horns. Money changers sit on the ground with piles of coin, ... Gangajal... the sacred and the profane are both available.."
A time when Tapovan was a sacred grove-- compared to now! though a few concrete and tree dwellings remain from those sadhu days its now overly commercialized and not a secret any longer. His description on why we consider the 'source' so much:
It could be that we seek the origins of the Ganga so that we can go beyond that point to a place where the river does not exist."
Even more today, but this is a nice glimpse into some places along the Ganges that even without the car are pretty crazy.
By the time he gets to be alone way up there in the Valley, it's well deserved. I love a story with a clear timeline and setting. There are so many places relatable to those who have traveled the same paths and new information. Sometimes, the information is not as well conjoined with his travel. Its not very risky, he doesn't take the fella's chillum haha, and having that thought in Tapovan above it all. I assume that hasn't changed yet.

[n c tripathy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awesome narration of the scenic beauty of himalayas , narrating the raw details of challenges in a subtle way

Wonderful narration of the beauty belief system challenges of this part of geography and at the same time story is woven in such a way that self finished in one go.
Thank stephen for the work

[Shantanu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Stephen Alter skillfully weaves together Hindu Mythology, a bit of history, travel memoirs and environmental concerns as he travels from Rishikesh to the sources of the Ganga ..mostly on foot. The details provided can be overwhelming sometimes, but they provide authenticity and a sense of " atmosphere" to this fascinating book.

[Sanket Agrawal · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the best books I read recently. Author did entire char dhaam Yatra on foot, while reading this book one will feel that he/she is also on pilgrimage with the author. Perfect blend of nature, myths, spirituality, and Garhwal's culture and history. All those who love Himalayas, rivers should read this book. Beyond amazing.

[Abby · Rating 3 out of 5]

Loved the concept of the book and appreciated how he weaves in Hindu mythology, but the actual writing was subpar and didn’t flow as well as other walking travelogues. I felt that the author wasn’t able to bring me along his trip the way other authors had done and didn’t describe details in a compelling manner. Didn’t finish.

[Umesh Nair · Rating 5 out of 5]

His method of capturing nature in words is so mesmerizing.

[Spandan Biswal · Rating 5 out of 5]

Can't recommend this book enough. Superb travel writing, going into the mythology of each place with the eye of the devout, but the mind of the unbeliever.

Also if you are going or ever planning to go on the Char Dham yatra in Uttarakhand (Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri, Yamunotri), or are a mountain trekking fanatic (but not mountaineering), this is a must read.

Having just gone on a 15 day trek with a friend who approached it with the imagination of a mule, lets go from place A to place B in 3 hours, where there is good grass; this book is sure pointer for how to go about such business.

[Smita · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really liked the book for the simplicity of its writing, the genuineness of the emotion that lay behind it. It is true that very few people (if any) attempt to walk the paths to the pilgrim centres in India anymore and for the author to have done it is amazing. I walked each step of the way with him. My knees ached in protest and my bones creaked and groaned, but I revelled in his glorious experiences -- both spiritual and his oneness with nature. Thank you, Stephen Alter, for allowing me to share your journey!

[1.1 · Rating 4 out of 5]

The writing gets a little wooden and uninspiring, but the author describes the grandeur of the routes he traveled quite well and I can't help but be immersed. Personal experiences and anecdotes are coupled with lots of references to conservation groups, religious myths and practices, and the history of the region he travels through, making for a lushly detailed experience. The author makes a strong case that the glory days of pilgrimage are over and that the environment and old routes are being destroyed by encroachments and modernity, but he's kind of an outsider looking in.

[Ayla · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great read, transporting the reader onto the Chota Char Dham Yatra and to the Valley of Flowers. Although claiming to be an atheist, the writer has profound spiritual experiences and I would think he is more an atheist in the Christian sense of the word but not so much to the wider Hindu definition of the divine. Though at times he complains a lot (rightfully so, as people have polluted even their holy places and destroyed nature) and there are a few boring parts, I thoroughly enjoyed this book and consider it one of my favourites.

[Prajakta Bhide · Rating 3 out of 5]

It is a travelogue of char dham yatra. The book is full of facts and details, experiences and observations, comparisons too! But I did not find it catchy.
It gets you the feel of pilgrimage of char dham yatra on foot.