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Thomas Jefferson's Creme Brulee: How a Founding Father and His Slave James Hemings Introduced French Cuisine to America
This culinary biography tells the incredible true story of how a Founding Father and his slave introduced French Cuisine to America—perfect for history buffs, foodies, and Francophiles alike
In 1784, Thomas Jefferson struck a deal with his slave, James Hemings. The Founding Father was traveling to Paris and wanted to bring James along “for a particular purpose”— to master the art of French cooking. In exchange for James’s cooperation, Jefferson would grant his freedom.
So began one of the strangest partnerships in United States history. As Hemings apprenticed under master French chefs, Jefferson studied the cultivation of French crops (especially grapes for wine-making) so they might be replicated in American agriculture. The two men returned home with such marvels as pasta, French fries, Champagne, macaroni and cheese, crème brûlée, and a host of other treats. This narrative history tells the story of their remarkable adventure—and even includes a few of their favorite recipes!
In 1784, Thomas Jefferson struck a deal with his slave, James Hemings. The Founding Father was traveling to Paris and wanted to bring James along “for a particular purpose”— to master the art of French cooking. In exchange for James’s cooperation, Jefferson would grant his freedom.
So began one of the strangest partnerships in United States history. As Hemings apprenticed under master French chefs, Jefferson studied the cultivation of French crops (especially grapes for wine-making) so they might be replicated in American agriculture. The two men returned home with such marvels as pasta, French fries, Champagne, macaroni and cheese, crème brûlée, and a host of other treats. This narrative history tells the story of their remarkable adventure—and even includes a few of their favorite recipes!
234 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2012
92 people are currently reading
1750 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 189 reviews
October 12, 2012
This combines two of my favorite topics- American history and food. In 1784 Thomas Jefferson makes a deal with his slave, James Hemings. James will travel with him to France and be trained in the fine art of French cooking, and will then bring this knowledge back home to train the slaves at Monticello. After this service is completed, James is to be granted his freedom. Much of the story involves the events that are going on in France at the time, the revolution against the monarchy of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. I found it fascinating to see what people were eating in those days both in France and America, necessity and availabilty played a factor in the daily diet. Jefferson was always on the lookout to bring new ideas back home to his beloved country to make it the best place it could possibly be. He kept amazingly detailed records of every little plan and item puchased in regards to his estate and the care of his slaves, and was always experimenting with new ways to improve life for himself and those around him.
The history of food is a fascinating story all in itself. So much of what is now Southern and American food is a fusion of so many different cultures, not just of French influence. Many of the foods and dishes were African in origin, what the slaves were used to in their native homes- Ngombo (gumbo), okra, black-eyed peas, hoppin' john, and so many more. Some of the French ideas brought back were macaroni and cheese, creme brulee, French fries, Champagne, and sauces.
My biggest disappointment in this story is the lack of information about James Hemings. I would have loved to have had some perspective from his point of view, what his life was like both in France and then when he returned to America, and then when he finally became a free man. It is so sad that his experiences and feelings are lost to us.
The history of food is a fascinating story all in itself. So much of what is now Southern and American food is a fusion of so many different cultures, not just of French influence. Many of the foods and dishes were African in origin, what the slaves were used to in their native homes- Ngombo (gumbo), okra, black-eyed peas, hoppin' john, and so many more. Some of the French ideas brought back were macaroni and cheese, creme brulee, French fries, Champagne, and sauces.
My biggest disappointment in this story is the lack of information about James Hemings. I would have loved to have had some perspective from his point of view, what his life was like both in France and then when he returned to America, and then when he finally became a free man. It is so sad that his experiences and feelings are lost to us.
October 15, 2012
I had high hopes for this book, but I was disappointed - I think it may have had a lot to do with the title. James Hemings got less than a chapter's worth of discussion in total, and much of that was conjecture. I understand the difficulty of constructing a narrative for a slave in this time period, but that's what I expected to read based on the title, the back cover, and the book jacket. If the title had been, say, "Jefferson's Palate: How a Founding Father's Appetites Introduced French Cuisine to America" I think I would have enjoyed it much more.
I also found odd the fact that there was a resources/appendix section at the end of the book that was in narrative format. It didn't include any *actual* resources. That section (which contained some interesting information) could easily have been added to the body of the book, and just the actual notes section left at the end.
I also found odd the fact that there was a resources/appendix section at the end of the book that was in narrative format. It didn't include any *actual* resources. That section (which contained some interesting information) could easily have been added to the body of the book, and just the actual notes section left at the end.
December 2, 2016
I've read a lot of non-fiction books on food and this might be the most boring thus far. The title is extremely misleading and the information on the topic is thin and full of conjecture. I estimate at least 40% of the actual text has nothing to do with Jefferson or Hemings; mostly it's context of the culture at the time (which is important) but feels like Craughwell was trying to meet a minimum number of words/pages.
October 22, 2012
This book is a delightful look at Thomas Jefferson and his love of food. The author’s writing style makes it a quick and easy read. Readers looking for a more “serious” historical record should look elsewhere -he gives a thumbnail sketch of the man, his life in politics, and acknowledges the controversy surrounding his personal life but concentrates on food. The pictures of actual recipes in Jefferson’s and Hemings’ handwriting were wonderful, I just wish there had been more transcribed so that I could read them.
I found the information about the eating habits of Colonial Americans and French peasants and aristocrats to be extremely interesting. Often when reading history books, I find it hard to picture the actual people who lived at that time. In my opinion, many historians get so bogged down in facts they forget these were living, breathing, feeling people… what did they wear, how did they entertain themselves, what did they eat?
I found the information about the eating habits of Colonial Americans and French peasants and aristocrats to be extremely interesting. Often when reading history books, I find it hard to picture the actual people who lived at that time. In my opinion, many historians get so bogged down in facts they forget these were living, breathing, feeling people… what did they wear, how did they entertain themselves, what did they eat?
April 15, 2013
A mix of french food and history, with some of my favorite founding fathers and other famous notaries, how can it miss? I loved reading about Jefferson, his amazing gardens, Franklin and his famous inventions and his down at the heel personae he presented to the French and made them fall in love with him. John Adams who was so afraid he would not be remembered and would be overshadowed in history. But, these were all things I had read before, what was new was Jefferson taking his slave Henning with him to France to bring back recipes and new kitchen implements to introduce to the new world. In this I was a little disappointed because Henning was the one I wanted to know more about and I feel he definitely got short shifted in this novel. So it was okay, wish it had been more focused but I still enjoyed it.
June 21, 2012
Betcha didn't know that Thomas Jefferson and his slave James Hemings were responsible for bringing champagne, French fries, and yes, creme brulee to the American palate. This was a fun adventure by the publisher who brought you MISS PEREGRINE'S HOME FOR PECULIAR CHILDEREN.
April 25, 2017
"... when he went to Europe, he traveled with his eyes and his mind wide open, and his taste buds eager for the next delicacy. Like a true tourist, Jefferson could not wait to bring the treasures he found back to the United States, hence all the crates of mustard, and nectarines, and almonds, and olive oil, not to mention the 680 bottles of wine. ... Jefferson didn't abandon his native victuals, he married them to those from France."
Thomas J. Craughwell, Thomas Jefferson's Creme Brulee
"In 1814, after an invading British army burned the Library of Congress, Jefferson offered to sell his personal library to the federal government. The following year, Congress approved a appropriation of $23950 for the purchase of his collection of 6,487 books. No sooner had the cases been shipped off to Washington than Jefferson resumed buying books."
I still need to write something ...
Thomas J. Craughwell, Thomas Jefferson's Creme Brulee
"In 1814, after an invading British army burned the Library of Congress, Jefferson offered to sell his personal library to the federal government. The following year, Congress approved a appropriation of $23950 for the purchase of his collection of 6,487 books. No sooner had the cases been shipped off to Washington than Jefferson resumed buying books."
I still need to write something ...
May 11, 2020
2020 bk 162. This book tried to do too many things - and almost pulled it off. it begins with the relationship between Jefferson and the Hemings family, moves to his years in France where he pays to have James taught the art of French cuisine and running a large kitchen. There were items I had not known, as in I hadn't realized that Jefferson was there for Bastille Day. We learned a little, just a little of what it was like for James Hemings. We then move back to the U. S., where James has to extract a promise from Jefferson to honor his pledge of being freed - which doesn't occur James Hemings is 30 years of age. From there, the book is more focused on Jefferson and politics, with a few mentions of those Hemings trained in his methods to follow him. I wish there had been more on the cooking and the menus. With Jefferson's record keeping, I'm sure there was more. There were a few recipes, not many. There is a good amount (but not as complete as other accounts) of the foods the pair introduced to America, along with the plants. This is a good introduction - but I was looking for more.
December 11, 2013
Thomas J. Craughwell. Thomas Jefferson’s Creme Brûlée Philadelphia: Quirk Books, 2012.
One of the ongoing requirements when one claims to be a culinary historian is the infamous"survey of the field”. Thus I found myself excited one evening at the local bookstore when I stumbled upon Mr. Craughwell’s “Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée”. Not only am I a lifelong admirer of Thomas Jefferson and have read much about his life and career but I am also in the midst of composing a culinary history. Needless to say, I scooped up the book and walked out of the bookstore beaming and thrilled to have a point of reference for my work.
At first though, I was a bit upset as I began to read. A culinary history ? I asked myself. There's hardly anything in here about food or cooking, although the theme of the book is Jefferson's trip to France, his investigation into the cuisine of France and the relationship he had with his slave and cook James Hemings. However as the book progressed it reads like an overall survey of Jefferson's diplomatic trip to France. Now I had already read about all this in numerous works on Jefferson and so was familiar with the basic outline of the time he spent in Europe. Where were the recipes? Where was the chronicle of James Hemings’ training as a cook in Paris? Where was the analysis of Thomas Jefferson's common books regarding which foods he wanted to bring back to America?
Mr. Craughwell’s book contained a lot of - well, he probably did this, they probably ate that, they may have used this recipe, he may have had these people over for dinner, he may have bragged about James’ skill in the kitchen, but none of this wasmore than speculation nor verified by any sources. There was little discussion, if any, as to what foods they actually ate and how those foods were actually cooked. Needless to say, I was a bit put off by all of this but then I realized when comparing it to my own work that what my sources produce compared to what Mr. Craughwell sources are, there is not that much actual discussion of food in the records.
I was guilty of the same thing Mr. Craughwell presented. My book is based upon probability. However, I like to think that my researches into actual foods present in French colonial Louisiana and actual spices present, as well as what the French normally used in the 18th century kitchen. Also, discussions of smuggling and of markets and of the creation of New Orleans and it’s Creole culture are all based on valid historical sources both primary and secondary. Not to say that Mr. Craughwell did not do his homework but it does not come across as such. So lesson learned - I need to make sure I come across as such. Anyway back to Mr. Craughwell’s book.
The main body of the book, the text itself, is a fine account of Jefferson's trip to France. It includes a limited discussion of James’ career in Paris as an apprentice chef. But it is not very detailed. All in all, the text, beyond the trip to France, is a bunch of “probably”. The culinary matter of the work is relegated to a 30 page appendix where Jefferson’s vegetable garden, his wine cellar, and some of his recipes are presented. The recipes are only slightly useful as they are screenshots of Jefferson’s actual common books as well as other works and recipes from the time. Unfortunately, they are all hand written and being scans or screenshots of such documents, can be difficult to read
CONCLUSION: if you would like a thorough account of Jefferson's trip to France with a nod toward the foodstuffs and culinary ideas he acquired while there, this is a good read. As a culinary history it falls a little bit short. Even though it does make up for it somewhat in the Appendix. There is no category listed on the dust jacket as on some books but on the cover it says “How a founding father and his slave James Hemings introduced French cuisine to America” and that subtitle does come up somewhat short. It's easy to read but not very informative to anyone who has studied Thomas Jefferson to any extent and certainly not very informative as to the cuisine that it claims to cover.
One of the ongoing requirements when one claims to be a culinary historian is the infamous"survey of the field”. Thus I found myself excited one evening at the local bookstore when I stumbled upon Mr. Craughwell’s “Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée”. Not only am I a lifelong admirer of Thomas Jefferson and have read much about his life and career but I am also in the midst of composing a culinary history. Needless to say, I scooped up the book and walked out of the bookstore beaming and thrilled to have a point of reference for my work.
At first though, I was a bit upset as I began to read. A culinary history ? I asked myself. There's hardly anything in here about food or cooking, although the theme of the book is Jefferson's trip to France, his investigation into the cuisine of France and the relationship he had with his slave and cook James Hemings. However as the book progressed it reads like an overall survey of Jefferson's diplomatic trip to France. Now I had already read about all this in numerous works on Jefferson and so was familiar with the basic outline of the time he spent in Europe. Where were the recipes? Where was the chronicle of James Hemings’ training as a cook in Paris? Where was the analysis of Thomas Jefferson's common books regarding which foods he wanted to bring back to America?
Mr. Craughwell’s book contained a lot of - well, he probably did this, they probably ate that, they may have used this recipe, he may have had these people over for dinner, he may have bragged about James’ skill in the kitchen, but none of this wasmore than speculation nor verified by any sources. There was little discussion, if any, as to what foods they actually ate and how those foods were actually cooked. Needless to say, I was a bit put off by all of this but then I realized when comparing it to my own work that what my sources produce compared to what Mr. Craughwell sources are, there is not that much actual discussion of food in the records.
I was guilty of the same thing Mr. Craughwell presented. My book is based upon probability. However, I like to think that my researches into actual foods present in French colonial Louisiana and actual spices present, as well as what the French normally used in the 18th century kitchen. Also, discussions of smuggling and of markets and of the creation of New Orleans and it’s Creole culture are all based on valid historical sources both primary and secondary. Not to say that Mr. Craughwell did not do his homework but it does not come across as such. So lesson learned - I need to make sure I come across as such. Anyway back to Mr. Craughwell’s book.
The main body of the book, the text itself, is a fine account of Jefferson's trip to France. It includes a limited discussion of James’ career in Paris as an apprentice chef. But it is not very detailed. All in all, the text, beyond the trip to France, is a bunch of “probably”. The culinary matter of the work is relegated to a 30 page appendix where Jefferson’s vegetable garden, his wine cellar, and some of his recipes are presented. The recipes are only slightly useful as they are screenshots of Jefferson’s actual common books as well as other works and recipes from the time. Unfortunately, they are all hand written and being scans or screenshots of such documents, can be difficult to read
CONCLUSION: if you would like a thorough account of Jefferson's trip to France with a nod toward the foodstuffs and culinary ideas he acquired while there, this is a good read. As a culinary history it falls a little bit short. Even though it does make up for it somewhat in the Appendix. There is no category listed on the dust jacket as on some books but on the cover it says “How a founding father and his slave James Hemings introduced French cuisine to America” and that subtitle does come up somewhat short. It's easy to read but not very informative to anyone who has studied Thomas Jefferson to any extent and certainly not very informative as to the cuisine that it claims to cover.
June 13, 2022
Not sure why I waited ten years to read this. I got it, then got rid of it, and another copy mysteriously showed up on my shelf.
I really enjoyed the writing, the description of what people were eating and drinking at the time, both in the US and in France. I learned a lot about the origin of some dishes.
There's obviously mention of historical events in both countries (the French Revolution for instance).
I visited Monticello fairly recently, so it was neat to read about his amazing (vegetable) gardens.
My only problem with the book is the subtitle. Note that crème brûlée in the title is correctly written with the correct French accents!
But the book actually does not have about James Hemings' years in Paris. There are a few things, but I was expecting many more details.
Still, there are several fascinating points about slavery, and the non existence of slavery in France at the time.
The author helps us understand that Jefferson treated his slaves so much better than most owners: good salary (for instance when James was in France with him), buying their produce, encouraging them to learn to read (a possible cause of death for slaves in many other households at the time in Southern US), and actually freeing hundreds of them.
The book included pictures of original documents, for instance French recipes written by hand by James Hemings.
I really enjoyed the writing, the description of what people were eating and drinking at the time, both in the US and in France. I learned a lot about the origin of some dishes.
There's obviously mention of historical events in both countries (the French Revolution for instance).
I visited Monticello fairly recently, so it was neat to read about his amazing (vegetable) gardens.
My only problem with the book is the subtitle. Note that crème brûlée in the title is correctly written with the correct French accents!
But the book actually does not have about James Hemings' years in Paris. There are a few things, but I was expecting many more details.
Still, there are several fascinating points about slavery, and the non existence of slavery in France at the time.
The author helps us understand that Jefferson treated his slaves so much better than most owners: good salary (for instance when James was in France with him), buying their produce, encouraging them to learn to read (a possible cause of death for slaves in many other households at the time in Southern US), and actually freeing hundreds of them.
The book included pictures of original documents, for instance French recipes written by hand by James Hemings.
November 5, 2012
I thoroughly enjoyed this book, not just for the Jefferson family history, but for a glimpse of the lifestyle during that period in America. The kitchen practices and customs of the time are a fascination to me, and I feel we are so lucky to have had a variation in cuisine introduced to what was clearly a limited variety and lifestyle (to our way of living currently).
The role of the Hemings family, and all of the slaves in Jefferson's household, was complex- this book did much to enlighten that relationship. Reading about the French culture, and the alarming build-up of the French revolution, puts the history of the time in perspective. Jefferson appears to have stayed in France, and brought back the very best it had to offer, right before the country fell to revolution. Good news for us!
I wish the maps and graphics had been better reproduced, but I feel that responsibility sits with the publisher, not the author.
I strongly recommend this book- it is conversational, informative and a wonderfull read!
The role of the Hemings family, and all of the slaves in Jefferson's household, was complex- this book did much to enlighten that relationship. Reading about the French culture, and the alarming build-up of the French revolution, puts the history of the time in perspective. Jefferson appears to have stayed in France, and brought back the very best it had to offer, right before the country fell to revolution. Good news for us!
I wish the maps and graphics had been better reproduced, but I feel that responsibility sits with the publisher, not the author.
I strongly recommend this book- it is conversational, informative and a wonderfull read!
November 18, 2012
While this was interesting for the food history about French and American styles during the late eighteenth century, and Thomas Jefferson's time in France and Italy, this book was only mediocre for me. I was hoping that there would be more about people were eating, and what they were eating. But instead, it only touched on those topics lightly, and did not provide any redactions or recipes within the books. Pity. While you can go to the author's website to find them, it would have been much more interesting to have them in the book. I hope that the publisher can correct this with the paperback publication. Just three stars and a somewhat recommendation.
For the longer review, please go here:
http://www.epinions.com/review/Thomas...
For the longer review, please go here:
http://www.epinions.com/review/Thomas...
September 9, 2013
I read the previous reviews of this book, so I wasn't expecting too much but even at that I was shocked at how thin (and I don't mean number of pages) this book was. Very little is known about the slave James, so the author uses hypothetical constructions of the type 'if James had seen this he would have...' or 'it could very well be that James was present and...' to give some weight to his story. Also, as the author himself explains, Jefferson may have introduced French cuisine but it was not taken up generally. It was not until the era of Julia Child that the general American public became interested in French cuisine. So the content doesn't live up to the title.
Nonetheless, the information on Jefferson was interesting. I think a book solely on Jefferson and food would have been a better idea and a more honest approach.
Nonetheless, the information on Jefferson was interesting. I think a book solely on Jefferson and food would have been a better idea and a more honest approach.
February 28, 2013
Short and sweet! Craughwell tried very hard to stay within the culinary aspects of Jeffeson and to speak minimally on his political life or private life. Discussion of culinary training for James Hemings, complete with his tools and recipes learned and shared upon return to America, copies of 8 in James' handwriting still in existence today. Jefferson took a three month trip through the French countryside to discover wines, types of grapes, fruits, vegetables, how they were grown, to gather seeds and/or cuttings of plants and as well as to see how well or poorly the average Frenchman lived away from the larger cities.
A delicious book for the history lover!
Oh, also, a Connecticut author from Bethel!
A delicious book for the history lover!
Oh, also, a Connecticut author from Bethel!
July 21, 2013
An entertaining mix of history and food, most of this book is spent on the time Thomas Jefferson was in Paris, along with John Adams and Benjamin Franklin, as an ambassador of sorts for the newly formed United States. Jefferson took along his slave James Hemings--brother to Sally Hemings who joined them later--so Hemings could study the arts of fine cooking with some of France's most renown chefs. Readers learn not just what politicians and ordinary citizens in France and America were doing--what those people ate and how that food was cooked is also part of the story. It’s an interesting treatment of a fascinating, transitional time when the United States had just finished its revolution and France was about to have one.
March 7, 2014
I enjoyed learning the culinary details about Jefferson's time in France that exist, but this, in toto, was a bit thinner and more conjectural than what I was hoping for. This'd be great supplementary reading at the high school or college level, but if you've read a lot of food history, it will almost certainly fall short of your expectations. Funnily, the appendix is the most informative - short chapters on Jefferson as wine connoisseur, his love of vegetables, and African foods at Monticello. If the whole book had followed that format, I think it could have been accomplished in half the pages and not have felt so stretched. TJ, would it have killed you to Instagram dinner once in a while? It really would have helped.
October 9, 2012
this was a well-written read, but the subject matter is decidedly lacking. It's a very interesting look at Jefferson's time in France, specifically about the culinary traditions that he discovered and brought back, but there's simply very little there there. James Hemmings gets short shrift, due to the paucity of information about him, and in the end, the author admits that Jefferson's love of French cuisine and modes of gastronomic pleasure didn't impress itself in America until the twentieth century.
A light and frothy history, but there's little meat in here for a reader to be engrossed in.
A light and frothy history, but there's little meat in here for a reader to be engrossed in.
July 22, 2017
While this was published a few years ago, the language used to describe people that were enslaved was absolutely abhorrent.
Also, it really was more a travelogue about what Jefferson did in France, rather than James Hemings' training in French cooking. He was there, but only rarely. And they mentioned Sally Hemings in passing, but glanced over her import there.
Overall, this was not good.
Also, it really was more a travelogue about what Jefferson did in France, rather than James Hemings' training in French cooking. He was there, but only rarely. And they mentioned Sally Hemings in passing, but glanced over her import there.
Overall, this was not good.
November 3, 2014
Although well researched, I would hardly state the central focus of this book was the relationship between Jefferson & Hemings, and how they brought French style cooking to America, as the cover of the book suggest,...Hemings was hardly mentioned, what a disappointment! That said, the history buff that I am, I still found 'Thomas Jefferson's Crème Brûlée interesting.
July 13, 2013
This was an interesting book about Thomas Jefferson and his time in Paris. I would have liked to learn more about his slave James Hemings but I suppose the historical data on him is lacking.
A different take on a much written topic and a quick, fun read.
A different take on a much written topic and a quick, fun read.
May 29, 2013
I found James Hemings fascinating, but he really had a small part in this book - apparently no one documented the life of a freed slave nearly as well as that of a prominent politician.
September 14, 2021
A scatterbrained collection of mostly off-topic facts and factoids, but interesting ones!
September 7, 2025
#Binge Reviewing my previous Reads #Food History
Food history often hides in the margins of political history, but Thomas J. Craughwell’s *Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée* pulls it front and centre, showing how a single relationship—between Jefferson and James Hemings, his enslaved cook—reshaped the American table. The book tells the remarkable story of how Jefferson, serving as ambassador to France in the 1780s, became enamoured with French gastronomy and decided to bring it home. But it was not Jefferson alone who carried crème brûlée, macaroni, and French-style sauces across the Atlantic; it was James Hemings, trained in Paris as a chef, who became the conduit between two worlds.
Craughwell’s narrative is brisk yet layered. On one level, it’s a delightful romp through Jefferson’s gourmand side: his fascination with wine, cheese, ice cream, and pasta machines. We get anecdotes of him shopping in Parisian markets, scribbling notes on French recipes, and dreaming of transforming Monticello’s kitchen into a little Versailles. On another, more sobering level, the book reveals how much of this culinary transfer depended on the labour, intelligence, and creativity of Hemings—a man enslaved, yet entrusted with mastering haute cuisine. Hemings learnt from French chefs, adapted recipes to American ingredients, and ultimately introduced dishes that became woven into American dining.
What makes the book compelling is its tension. Jefferson is celebrated as a founding father, a connoisseur of Enlightenment ideals and fine dining, yet his culinary legacy was possible only through the exploitation of Hemings. Craughwell doesn’t shy away from this contradiction. Hemings was promised freedom in exchange for training another cook at Monticello, but his story ends tragically, his genius overshadowed by the man who owned him. The book forces readers to grapple with the fact that much of American food history, like American political history, is entangled with slavery.
As food writing, *Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée* is rich in sensory detail. Craughwell lingers on the textures of ice cream churned by hand, the elegance of soufflés, and the novelty of macaroni pie. He explains how Jefferson’s Parisian obsessions—olive oil, Parmesan, even French mustard—filtered into a young republic still largely fed on cornmeal and salt pork. The irony, of course, is that French cuisine became “American” only after Hemings translated it into the kitchens of Monticello.
To conclude, this is a thought-provoking book that reveals how cuisine can travel across oceans, class, and power dynamics. Craughwell manages to balance Jefferson’s gourmand curiosity with Hemings’s overlooked mastery, reminding us that every dish carries a history of both delight and injustice. A must-read for those who enjoy when food history complicates the mythologies of nationhood.
Food history often hides in the margins of political history, but Thomas J. Craughwell’s *Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée* pulls it front and centre, showing how a single relationship—between Jefferson and James Hemings, his enslaved cook—reshaped the American table. The book tells the remarkable story of how Jefferson, serving as ambassador to France in the 1780s, became enamoured with French gastronomy and decided to bring it home. But it was not Jefferson alone who carried crème brûlée, macaroni, and French-style sauces across the Atlantic; it was James Hemings, trained in Paris as a chef, who became the conduit between two worlds.
Craughwell’s narrative is brisk yet layered. On one level, it’s a delightful romp through Jefferson’s gourmand side: his fascination with wine, cheese, ice cream, and pasta machines. We get anecdotes of him shopping in Parisian markets, scribbling notes on French recipes, and dreaming of transforming Monticello’s kitchen into a little Versailles. On another, more sobering level, the book reveals how much of this culinary transfer depended on the labour, intelligence, and creativity of Hemings—a man enslaved, yet entrusted with mastering haute cuisine. Hemings learnt from French chefs, adapted recipes to American ingredients, and ultimately introduced dishes that became woven into American dining.
What makes the book compelling is its tension. Jefferson is celebrated as a founding father, a connoisseur of Enlightenment ideals and fine dining, yet his culinary legacy was possible only through the exploitation of Hemings. Craughwell doesn’t shy away from this contradiction. Hemings was promised freedom in exchange for training another cook at Monticello, but his story ends tragically, his genius overshadowed by the man who owned him. The book forces readers to grapple with the fact that much of American food history, like American political history, is entangled with slavery.
As food writing, *Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brûlée* is rich in sensory detail. Craughwell lingers on the textures of ice cream churned by hand, the elegance of soufflés, and the novelty of macaroni pie. He explains how Jefferson’s Parisian obsessions—olive oil, Parmesan, even French mustard—filtered into a young republic still largely fed on cornmeal and salt pork. The irony, of course, is that French cuisine became “American” only after Hemings translated it into the kitchens of Monticello.
To conclude, this is a thought-provoking book that reveals how cuisine can travel across oceans, class, and power dynamics. Craughwell manages to balance Jefferson’s gourmand curiosity with Hemings’s overlooked mastery, reminding us that every dish carries a history of both delight and injustice. A must-read for those who enjoy when food history complicates the mythologies of nationhood.
August 30, 2018
This is a fascinating look at how some of our best known comfort foods were introduced to America by Thomas Jefferson. He always had an interest in agriculture, food crops, and cooking so when he was assigned to be a diplomat to France under President George Washington, he took the opportunity to explore the foods and cuisine of France with the thought to introduce some of them to America. He was so serious in this that he brought along one of his slaves, James Hemings, and apprenticed him to French chefs to learn the techniques and details of French cooking. during the approximately three year stay, James not only became an accomplished chef but also became fluent in the French language. Because of this initiative, we got Mac n' Cheese, Fried Potatoes, Creme Brulee, and much more. Not everything was successful as several European crops such as wine grapes and standard variety rice were transplanted to Montecello but failed to thrive and were abandoned. But also many improvements were made in kitchen methods and tools for cooking that upgraded results as well as safety over open hearth cooking that was standard throughout early America. This book would be a great read for anyone who loves cultural history, early American life, French history, food, and cooking. CAUTION: There are a few recipes contained in this book and it may make you hungry!
April 2, 2025
I loved this book- but I do love cooking/food related books and I love history- especially revolutionary era. So this book hit a perfect niche for me!
While the title talks about Jefferson and Hemings and how they brought French Cooking over- that was really glossed over by the other major events that were happening at the time. These include the French Revolution, Jefferson as the Secretary of State, and Jefferson as the President.
There were bits about the arrangement they made- how it was broken, then renegotiated. This was probably the most important part as while they were in France, James could have left and became emancipated at anytime, but they made an arrangement that he was treated as a freeman in France and his education was paid for and he would come back a slave and teach what he learned, then be freed. It didn’t exactly happen that way but James Hemings was eventually freed.
I loved how Jefferson wrote about the French Revolution and how he kept a blind eye to the riots and chaos for the chance of Liberty and Equality.
His daughters also going to school with the future Empress Josephine was a crazy fact!
It was weirdly relevant to our current political climate, and there were times I read something and just sat, because if they figured it out 250ish years ago, why are we still debating basic human rights?
Overall absolutely fascinating and a nice quick read.
While the title talks about Jefferson and Hemings and how they brought French Cooking over- that was really glossed over by the other major events that were happening at the time. These include the French Revolution, Jefferson as the Secretary of State, and Jefferson as the President.
There were bits about the arrangement they made- how it was broken, then renegotiated. This was probably the most important part as while they were in France, James could have left and became emancipated at anytime, but they made an arrangement that he was treated as a freeman in France and his education was paid for and he would come back a slave and teach what he learned, then be freed. It didn’t exactly happen that way but James Hemings was eventually freed.
I loved how Jefferson wrote about the French Revolution and how he kept a blind eye to the riots and chaos for the chance of Liberty and Equality.
His daughters also going to school with the future Empress Josephine was a crazy fact!
It was weirdly relevant to our current political climate, and there were times I read something and just sat, because if they figured it out 250ish years ago, why are we still debating basic human rights?
Overall absolutely fascinating and a nice quick read.
August 5, 2019
If Meacham's Pulitzer-Prize winning tome about Jefferson - The Art of Power (which I am also reading)- is shopping on Rodeo Drive, this book is Big Lots. There was some factual differences between this book and Meacham's and both quoted the exact same passages from letters and such. Overall, this one did not deliver on the promise. It was more about Jefferson in general and food almost seemed like an afterthought. Also, I wish there had been more about James Hemings historically. The few brief mentions of him were not favorable. I feel like more could have been done with him to help sell the book.
May 17, 2021
I read this as part of a reading challenge and was extremely disappointed. The author really doesn’t bring much new insight into the book, while deferring frequently to Annette Gordon-Reed’s The Hemmingses of Monticello, which is by far the superior read. James and Philip hardly garner any mention, beyond they learned how to cook in the French style. While I don’t think you can divorce the food from the politics of the time, it would have been better to provide more insight on the food culture that Jefferson tried to cultivate. The interesting parts were on Jefferson’s attempts to resolve issues like rice or grapes to make American products more palatable or exportable.
February 2, 2023
Before Jefferson, it seemed that colonial America didn't like french food.
James Hemings was a well-trained chef, and it is sad he committed suicide at such a young age due to drunkenness. Most of the book looks at Jefferson's time in France, and a good portion of it looks at the context of Jefferson's political and social life there, focusing little on the actual food. However, the last chapter really gets into the culinary details of Monticello.
If you like learning more about Jefferson/Monticello/French influence on early America, I recommend this read.
James Hemings was a well-trained chef, and it is sad he committed suicide at such a young age due to drunkenness. Most of the book looks at Jefferson's time in France, and a good portion of it looks at the context of Jefferson's political and social life there, focusing little on the actual food. However, the last chapter really gets into the culinary details of Monticello.
If you like learning more about Jefferson/Monticello/French influence on early America, I recommend this read.
February 14, 2019
Three and a half stars because I liked the topic, how the author discussed it and how he gave enough background to set the stage but not so much that it felt like a Jefferson biography/colonial food history. Occasionally it was redundant but had I not listened to it all so quickly, I may have appreciated that.
I had heard years ago that Jefferson was responsible for bringing macaroni and cheese to America and was glad to have this discussed.
I had heard years ago that Jefferson was responsible for bringing macaroni and cheese to America and was glad to have this discussed.
April 16, 2019
Enjoyable book! Combined some very interesting topics, great French history, art and architecture! Overall I felt the book was a tad disorganised, switching from one topic to another with no discerning pattern. But the topics were so interesting I forgave this.
Also the book's title is misleading, there was barely any info on James Hemings. This is understandably so, as slaves had little narrative. But misleading nonetheless.
Also the book's title is misleading, there was barely any info on James Hemings. This is understandably so, as slaves had little narrative. But misleading nonetheless.
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