Such an interesting book! It’s non-fiction but written more like a work of fiction. The setting is that five women in their early to mid-fifties take a trip to Italy and the UK. They refer to themselves as grandmothers, but they seem far too young for that to my mind! I got the impression that it wasn’t a common thing for women not only to travel without their husbands at such a time but also to travel as a group in that way.
It was interesting to see how things had changed with regards to travel and places from 1953. Idlewild airport is now JFK and the main airport in Paris is Charles de Gaulle, rather than Orly. Although the book was less of a record in the way of daily life, it was still informative and showed attitudes and expectations have changed. I was pleased to learn that many women had careers and in some cases, their own business. Emily noted that when she was doing her broadcasts from the BBC, 9 of the 10 engineers were women which I think would be impressive these days, never mind for 1953! It was also nice to learn about Miss Anna Lea Lelli, a highly knowledgable and intelligent woman of whom the internet knows astoundingly little, and the Baroness Renate Rapisardi di S. Antonio, who had purposely found a way to provide employment for the women on her estate by selling the linens and clothes that they embroidered. I was stunned to see that their full address and phone numbers were provided!
It took me quite a while to read because I had to keep stopping to get further research on the places, people and items that were mentioned. It was a very educational book. I had never heard of Emily Kimbrough but the limited information about her I found online said that she was an author and journalist, and seemed to be quite highly regarded in the latter field. I also discovered some new arts and culture items, particularly Raphael Lardeur and his stained glass pieces; the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele; the Feast of the Candles in Gubbio; the Della Robbia medallions at Ospedale degli Innocenti in Florence; and the stunning frescos at the monastery of San Marco.
I was curious about the Mystery View mentioned in Bagnoregio (Emily spells it Bagnoreggio). Apparently, Emily and friends had been given a letter with directions that came originally from a great art expert called Mr Berenson. The directions take them from Orvieto to Bagnoregio, and to follow the main street - apparently there's a fork off to the right and a road that branches to the left, but they are to ignore these and go straight on where the main street becomes a country lane that is eventually blocked by a wide gate. On the other side of the gate is a meadow to cross and at the edge of this is... something large and presumably spectacular. Emily says, "I will not tell what we saw that day. Others have had a copy of this letter [...] and no one has given away what, standing on the edge of the meadow, he has seen. [...] This much I will reveal: you will be rewarded. And I doubt that you will see elsewhere anything like this Mystery View. It is not recorded on a tourist map." What did they see?! I've tried looking on Google Maps and I think I've worked out the main street which leads to Strada Provinciale 135 as it has a fork to the right and a branch to the left just at the edge of the village. I can't work out where the country lane, gate or meadow are, or anything that might have been an amazing sight. It's such a shame to think that that information may have been lost forever.
The final part in England was of particular interest as it’s a country I know a little better than Italy. I’ve read recollections of the Coronation before and seen clips of the ceremony but Emily gave more information about the run-up to the event and how it was celebrated by the general public. Her viewpoint outside the Abbey gave a different side of the experience that I’d not heard before, especially the moment when everyone there spontaneously stood up in silence as the Queen was crowned. It was a very emotional moment, especially when followed by the words from Princess Marie Louise about service and duty, something that the Queen has very much taken to heart over the past 70 years.
Emily’s recounting of her entire trip was written in such an easy manner but also very personable. I really felt as though I got to know all of the women throughout the book, their personalities and little quirks came through very strongly. I think it’s got to be one of the most entertaining travel books that I’ve ever read!